Need a base for an anvil

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http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...9522_200519522What would be the best way to make a moveable base for an anvil?  I have a larger truck rim that I could mount it on.  I found this picture in one of the threads in the thread on railroad anvils.  What does the wood do that a steel mount does not do?  I am guessing it has something to do with the ring. Attached ImagesLast edited by Crabo; 02-17-2013 at 10:35 AM.
Reply:I've worked on both steel based anvils and wood ones when I took my class last year. Both will work, but the wood ones are "softer". They give just a tiny fraction and the blows aren't a jarring. Ring was a bit quieter, but that might have just been the individual anvil itself. A wood stump would also give you a place you could do dishing right on the stump for working on leaves etc.My 50 lb one is mounted to a plywood "box" with a sloping base, that's a copy of a portable stand I saw a blacksmith using at the Grange this summer. I've got a big chunk of oak trunk that came down in Sandy for my big anvil, when ever my buddy gets around to dropping it off. I'll see if I have picts, if not I can grab some tomorrow when I head up to the shop.Shop at the college had a 150 lb Trenton anvil that was on a  steel angle iron like base. I want to say it was cast rather than fabbed, but I wasn't using that anvil much. I'd have to dig thru my picts to see if I took any close ups that had it in the back ground. They also had one that was a steel box that was filled with sand. The anvil was mounted to a steel plate that fit on top of the sand. I believe the idea was that you could easily transport the system by removing the anvil and base plate, then dumping the sand in a bucket and moving the base empty. I was using a similar system before I built my wooden box. My 50 lb Fisher on the sand base was definitely "softer" than it is on my current wood base.Price on that Northern tool anvil seems high. I'm also betting it's a cheap cast iron anvil similar to the HF ones. I've seen nicer "antique" anvils for less money, but you do have to hunt for them and be quick. $2-3 / pound was the range I was told was decent for a good serviceable used anvil in the 50-200 lb range. Bigger ones are more since they aren't as common. I know a place in South Jersey that's got a bunch of imported cast anvils, but I personally wouldn't want one.Last edited by DSW; 02-17-2013 at 10:57 AM..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Brake drums and tire rims weren't around when they 1st invented anvils.  Just a thought. When I first mounted my rail road iron (anvil) on steel it was steel to steel. When I would give it a whack it would set up a ring that would turn your brain to jello and make your eyes go crossed. Had to go back and make some thin conveyor belt washers."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:I've got my 132lb Peter Wright set on a tripod base made from steel tube. Works fine ring is a little louder than when set on wood.I have worked on wooden and steel bases and there's not a huge difference. My current base was made from steel simply because i didn't have any suitable wood available when I needed it.Could be just me, but I think I get a better rebound off the steel base.I have to agree with DSW, too. For that price I'd start shopping for a good used one. They still go for $2-$3/lb around here for decent ones.Brian LeonardAppalachian Ironworks L.L.C.434 Long Branch Rd, Marshall, NC 28753828 649 9966828 702 [email protected]
Reply:The problem with buying a used one is that it is has to be done through an approved vendor with school money.  Even though I could find a better deal used somewhere, I can't spend school money on it.  Even buying new, it has to be through an approved vendor.
Reply:Originally Posted by CraboThe problem with buying a used one is that it is has to be done through an approved vendor with school money.  Even though I could find a better deal used somewhere, I can't spend school money on it.  Even buying new, it has to be through an approved vendor.
Reply:You don't even want to see what the kids at the tech school have done to the Peter Wright anvil that's in the weld shop with the grinders.... .No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:You can take almost all the ring out of an anvil by sticking magnets to the under side.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWYou don't even want to see what the kids at the tech school have done to the Peter Wright anvil that's in the weld shop with the grinders....
Reply:Where are you located? I would hate to pay shipping!  Most states have a blacksmith association.  ABANA I believe is the national one. CBA is the one in CA.  Ask a farrier where to get one.  I have only used ones on wood, I think the reason is maybe the same as a dead blow hammer, but I'm not sure. Less shock and rebound.  And school kids....heck yeah they can break an anvil!  Make sure you don't buy a cheap cast iron one. What kind of forge do you have?
Reply:I was actually looking for something else tonight and spotted these.  A few bucks more than the Northern tool one and only 70 lbs, but a MUCH nicer anvil. They also have listings for 100 and 125 lb anvils for more money if your budget allows.http://www.farriersupplyshop.com/ite...=000202&ctl=45Some of the NC 70 lb anvils they have are even cheaper than the NTool one. Just one of several options.http://www.farriersupplyshop.com/ite...=000294&ctl=38I know if I dig a bit I can find more anvil links I've saved in my computer..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Wait till they figure out they can launch it and it might land in the science supply lab. ...then you will need two.    I'll bet if you put the word out someone would donate you an anvil. Spend the money on hammers. I've given hundreds of pounds of electrodes and other supplies to local schools. I also let the advanced,or driven students weld in my shop after school.
Reply:I teach autobody in a Dallas suburb.  I am not going to be teaching blacksmithing.  It will be used for shaping sheetmetal for patch panels and such.  General pounding and such.I will see if I can work some magic and get approval to buy the anvil from a non approved vendor.Last edited by Crabo; 02-18-2013 at 12:33 AM.
Reply:after looking at hundreds of anvil stands on google and threads in this forum...i came to the conclusion that a tripod was best, balances anywhere you drag it to. So i threw this together with scrap pipe, even cut some rings from the pipe for hammer holders. Attached Images        thermal arc 252i  -  millermatic 350P -   miller XMT, cp300ts, 30a 22a feeders, buttload of other millers, handfull of lincolns, couple of esabs  -   Hypertherm 1250 G3
Reply:I used 2 x 3 steel tubing with a piece of leather between the anvil and the base.Dynasty 300DXSmith He/Ar gas mixerMM350PHobart Handler 120Smith LW7, MW5, AW1A
Reply:A blacksmith book a read recently recommended using a pipe larger than the base of the anvil.  Fill the pipe with sand and place a steel plate on top of the sand.  The height of the anvil can be easily adjusted.  The entire stand can be easily moved by empying out the sand and then refill it in the new location.  I plan to do this when I get my anvil."G"ConductorX - The Volkswright Shophttp://volkswright.blogspot.com/http://bugwerks.blogspot.com/Miller DVI w/Spoolgun - Miller Plasma Cutter
Reply:[QUOTE=ConductorX;2296081]A blacksmith book a read recently recommended using a pipe larger than the base of the anvil.  Fill the pipe with sand and place a steel plate on top of the sand.  The height of the anvil can be easily adjusted.  The entire stand can be easily moved by empying out the sand and then refill it in the new location.[QUOTE]So the steel plate and anvil don't touch the pipe at all. They just float on top of the sand? interesting idea.
Reply:the one in first post should work fine..
Reply:Originally Posted by ConductorXA blacksmith book a read recently recommended using a pipe larger than the base of the anvil.  Fill the pipe with sand and place a steel plate on top of the sand.  The height of the anvil can be easily adjusted.  The entire stand can be easily moved by empying out the sand and then refill it in the new location.  I plan to do this when I get my anvil."G"
Reply:Originally Posted by herbet99So the steel plate and anvil don't touch the pipe at all. They just float on top of the sand? interesting idea.
Reply:Made of scrap 2x4, can change height easily if needed.Peter Attached ImagesEquipment:2  old paws2  eyes (that don't look so good)1  bad back
Reply:Pict of my wooden box base.A pict of the blacksmith shop at the college where I took my forging class last summer. Most of the bases for the anvils are wooden, but if you look at the young lady on the far right, her stand is similar to the steel ones posted up by others except I think it was 4 legged vs 3 legged. There's also a steel legged base in the center of the picture in front of the gentleman in red. I think it had the swage block on it in that picture, but he might have had the anvil on the floor since he was working on upsetting long lengths for his project IIRC. . The other steel stands are behind me in this pict and I don't have any picts that show them clearly..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan