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I always thought difficult starting, constant sticking and going out meant your amps were too low. Today I was practicing on some 1/8" with 3/32" Hobart and Lincoln 7018AC. Range on that rod is 60-100 amps. I set it in the low 90's and went up to 100. This was a flat t-joint.No matter what I did, it constantly stuck like it was pulled to the metal like a magnet, especially when starting. Additionally, the arc constantly went out, for no apparent reason (arc length, angle, etc. were all good), like somebody was switching off the welder.Since I was already maxing it out at 100 amps, I reduced it to 75-80 amps. Holy heck; suddenly it started instantly and a ran a straight, neat, 6 inch bead with absolutely no problems: no sticking, going out, restarting, etc. Beautiful.Does this make any sense, or I am just doing something weird?-RuarkLincoln 3200HDHobart Stickmate LX235TWECO Fabricator 211i
Reply:Almost sounds like a welder issue rather than a "weldor" issue. More tests may be necessary.
Reply:I want some of that stuff u be smoking. Lol No but seriously, i have no clue.Ranger 305gMillermatic 140 AutosetDewalt Chopsaw2 grindersMy Fists
Reply:For starting with a new rod I find it alot easier to use a cheater plate. I scratch the plate a few times then move to the joint. A quick tap and I'm off. When restarting a rod I will remove the ground and tap a few times to knock off the flux then toss in the ground and go. Ya gotta remember that rod gets buried in the unburned flux. I just posted a pic with a half decent bead at 65 amps with 3/32 rod on 1/8 at 65 amps. No probs with arc stopping mid way.Edit:Gonna self correct here and say half a$$ed not half decent. The arc stayed smooth throughout though.Last edited by Snuffy; 10-27-2012 at 04:56 PM.
Reply:I bet the lower amps didn't blow off the flux as violently and enabled you to drag the rod more easily.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum |
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