Some pics of stick beads

admin

Ran some beads tonight and for once the camera worked. critique, flame, etc I only have 1/8 6011 (sitting around for probably 20 years) and 1/8 6013 (new stuff from Lincoln). Taking notes now of the results instead of trying to remember what the hell i was doing. It seems like the 6011 likes to be run around 80-100 and the 6013 likes way higher. Most of the beads I ran were around 150. Trying to run a 6011 at 150amps results in a firestorm of bbs that find all exposed skin .Might be time to step up yo some butt and overlap joints.First Pic6011 1/8 100amps (half way through a bb went down my glove and i almost **** myself)6013 1/8 100amps (struggling to penetrate, bead sitting up a bit)6013 1/8 150 amps (seemed smooth)Second Pic, ran one after another top first... no cooling time between6013 150amps slag6013 150amps slagThird Pic, same beads as above6013 150 amps after brushing6013 150 amps after brushingFourth6013 150A6011  80A6013 150AFifth6013 150A6013 150A Attached ImagesLast edited by BlauSchuh; 11-12-2012 at 08:06 PM.ESAB Heliarc 252
Reply:another view without the flash601360116013 Attached ImagesESAB Heliarc 252
Reply:Looks good from here but on some beads the ripples look a bit pointy, which books say it is a signal of travelling too fast.As you can see the cell rods will never give you a bead as smooth as the rutile rods (6013) but after a few answers you will find that rutile rods are, at best, hated by 95% of the welders here. Shallow penetration, wormholes, etc.The other 5% is made by an european pipe welder who posts in this forum and laces up the bestest waved passes with 6013 DCEN ever (or almost!).Now that you seem to be somewhat proficient laying beads on a flat piece of metal, set up some joints and start gluing metal together!Mikel