Clamshell bearing puller

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I'm thinking about making one of these because I will be rebuilding two rear differentials soon.http://www.ebay.com/itm/SHIPS-FREE-C...955a3b&vxp=mtrA guy made one here: [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kYHFCJy6DPw[/ame]The thing that gets me is I know I've seen something like the clamshells for sale someplace. Anyone have an idea where I could get the parts to do it quickly, or a better way to do it?I was thinking of getting a threaded pipe and welding a flange on a nut eliminating the set screws from the home made one.  Using an exhaust clamp instead of the hose clamps would hold it together better too. Other than that I guess it's over to metal supermarket tomorrow.Millermatic250Miller Spoolmate 200Miller Spoolmatic 1Lincoln tombstone with century DC converter1945 K.O. Lee company stick welder (looks like R2D2)Miller 30E feederHobart AH27 FeederMiller Thunderbolt AC/DC
Reply:I´d probably remove the rollers and heat the bearing race with a propane torch or O/A torch. Enough heat and it will expand and come loose.
Reply:All I have is a small propane torch so I'd be there all day. The pinion isn't bad, but the carrier bearings are really on tight. That tool just looks like it works really well. Also, one of them is in my daily driver and I can't afford downtime.Millermatic250Miller Spoolmate 200Miller Spoolmatic 1Lincoln tombstone with century DC converter1945 K.O. Lee company stick welder (looks like R2D2)Miller 30E feederHobart AH27 FeederMiller Thunderbolt AC/DC
Reply:There is another way to get them off also.  If you pry the bearing cage off and get all the rollers out of it you can take a cut off wheel in a die grinder and score the bearing crosswise.  Go as deep as you can without getting into the carrier.  Then take a chisel and hammer, place it in the groove you cut with the cut off wheel and hit it.  It should split the bearing and it will come right off.
Reply:I thought about doing that, but was afraid of cutting into the diff. I just figured if I could make the tool for even $20; it would make things much easier.Millermatic250Miller Spoolmate 200Miller Spoolmatic 1Lincoln tombstone with century DC converter1945 K.O. Lee company stick welder (looks like R2D2)Miller 30E feederHobart AH27 FeederMiller Thunderbolt AC/DC
Reply:Well... You can never have too many tools. Make one and let us know how it works.
Reply:If I only had to remove two of them I think I'd start with a chisel between the bearing and housing and if  they won't drive off like that then heat.   If all you  have is a propane torch, I'd suggest stepping up to a trigger lighting "turbo torch" on Mapp gas.  I think they are about $50 at the home stores and get a lot hotter than a plain old propane unit.  I have regular torches but still use the heck out of my little one.
Reply:That looks like a pretty handy tool. If you have to do several of them you might want to look into a cheap press. Because that will work pulling them off but you still have to put the new bearing back on, and me personally don't like beating on bearing with a hammer. All tho I have seen it done before.Will   Supports Autism Awareness                            My ToysBobCat 225 PLusMillermatic 130Miller Spectrum 300 CutmateEverlast Power Tig 185 Micro April is Autism Month .
Reply:Thanks guys! My old man still has all the torches and I don't want to buy extras. Got the cheap press, but it is too narrow to fit the carrier in. I'd have to fab something to use as the base plate. I'm still @ work so metal supermarket will have to be tomorrow. I'll start a new thread if I build one or fab a new base for my press. The only problem with that is getting something strong enough that will fit between the ring gear and bearing. Keep the ideas coming because I have to do this in a day and before the truck strands me on the road somewhere.Millermatic250Miller Spoolmate 200Miller Spoolmatic 1Lincoln tombstone with century DC converter1945 K.O. Lee company stick welder (looks like R2D2)Miller 30E feederHobart AH27 FeederMiller Thunderbolt AC/DC
Reply:You could use a bearing separator.   It is going to take some rigging with long bolts and a plug for the carrier.   I really hate Harbor Fright tools, but this one might be ok for "one use"http://www.harborfreight.com/large-b...ator-3979.htmlIMHO: Shop around on Amazon...Clam-shell pullers are nice if you intend to save the bearings.  (re-gearing)I
Reply:I already have that because their small set bends like crazy when you try and remove a bearing. They didn't have any bolts or anything to use with it when I got it. I guess I could just fab up my own and try that first. I don't really care about saving them because I have dummy bearings to set the preload. I also made a dummy race to set the pinion depth.I looked all over the web, but the cheapest I could find a clamshell was $240, which is crazy when I can make one. I'll let you know how it turns out at metal supermarket tomorrow. I may just take the large bearing separator with me and hit home depot or ace after for some bolts to use with it.Millermatic250Miller Spoolmate 200Miller Spoolmatic 1Lincoln tombstone with century DC converter1945 K.O. Lee company stick welder (looks like R2D2)Miller 30E feederHobart AH27 FeederMiller Thunderbolt AC/DC
Reply:I ended up plasma cutting a piece of C channel, using two bolts to hold it to the bearing separator, and  a 3/4" threaded rod with a nut welded to the C channel to pull it off. Cost about $10 because I had the C Channel.Millermatic250Miller Spoolmate 200Miller Spoolmatic 1Lincoln tombstone with century DC converter1945 K.O. Lee company stick welder (looks like R2D2)Miller 30E feederHobart AH27 FeederMiller Thunderbolt AC/DC
Reply:Necessity is the mother of invention.
Reply:Originally Posted by blackbartNecessity is the mother of invention.
Reply:Maybe square or rectangle tube would be stronger, nice tool .
Reply:Thanks. Maybe I'll use a piece of square tubing I have laying around and make another one tomorrow using some higher grade threaded rod or even a bolt. I'll post when I get the other bearing off.Millermatic250Miller Spoolmate 200Miller Spoolmatic 1Lincoln tombstone with century DC converter1945 K.O. Lee company stick welder (looks like R2D2)Miller 30E feederHobart AH27 FeederMiller Thunderbolt AC/DC
Reply:Bearings like that run .001 to .003" interference.  They fit tight but it doesn't take much heat to open them up .003".  Throw the propane torch in the garbage, upgrade to MAPP, cut the cage of the bearing so the rollers fall off, hang the unit straight up and down, and heat until the race falls off.
Reply:My only problem with that is what if my dummy bearings are .001 off and I have to remove the good bearing? I'm going to be out money for new bearings and/or a clamshell puller. Good suggestions on how to get them off, but I'm just nervous about something being off ever so slightly that is going to screw me up. I'm going to use the tool I made, measure the tolerances on the new bearings vs the dummy bearings and do the project truck first. That way I'll feel more comfortable doing my daily driver w/o a clamshell puller..Millermatic250Miller Spoolmate 200Miller Spoolmatic 1Lincoln tombstone with century DC converter1945 K.O. Lee company stick welder (looks like R2D2)Miller 30E feederHobart AH27 FeederMiller Thunderbolt AC/DC
Reply:I just skimmed the thread, BUTThis is a classic case of worrying too much, and using the wrong tool (most of the time the "wrong" tool is the one SOLD FOR THE PURPOSE)For carrier bearings the best tool is a stout 2 finger puller, AND A TORCH.I don't care how many tons the puller is said to exert, you should still use a torch to heat the race.  Otherwise you spring the puller, and wind up at ground zero AGAIN.Simply use a puller with enough jaw span to grab the race, or a bearing separator large enough to grab the race, then heat a narrow band on the race to RED HOT.  The race will expand enough to allow it to move under pressure.  Make sure you've got the puller tightened prior to heating, and don't rush it, take it in steps.  You'll hear the race pop as it moves that slight little bit.  Retighten, reheat, and proceed until ya got it off.You will not ruin the metal in the carrier.........trust me"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Torch........................Small O/A rosebud"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Here's the deal.OTC T style puller bar, and cheap bearing separatorThe puller will set you back about $60, and the cheap import separator will be around $39 for a set of 3 in different sizes.  I prefer the cheap crap separator because you can easily damage the lip on these things.  Cheap throwaway is preferable.Use common grade 5 bolts for extensions.  Grind the bolt down a bit near the head so it will fit the slot in the puller.Works like a charm, BUT YOU DO NEED HEAT"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Farmersamm, thanks for the advice. I found the best nut & bolt place in Nashville tonight. $12 for a 36" piece of hardened, threaded rod. I used some heavy square tubing this time and The other side came off easy. I may see if I can borrow a torch from someone for the daily driver.Yes I am very worried because I lose money when my truck is down. I have a busy rest of the week so the weekend will be work time. If I can get both rebuilt and some of my project truck put together; I'll be happy.Millermatic250Miller Spoolmate 200Miller Spoolmatic 1Lincoln tombstone with century DC converter1945 K.O. Lee company stick welder (looks like R2D2)Miller 30E feederHobart AH27 FeederMiller Thunderbolt AC/DC
Reply:Good luck, sounds like me...........make do with what you got"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:If you do make that puller, loose the hose clamps and machine a bushing, pipe or whatever you want to call it to fit over the 2 halves, much more professional and probably safer if you really start yanking. even exhaust pipe would be better, maybe even a soup can would be better. Can you tell I hate the clamps."Si Vis Pacem Para Bellum"Lincoln Idealarc 250 AC/DCMillermatic 251   Syncrowave 300   30A spoolgunLincoln MP210Hypertherm 45(2) LN 25(2) Lincoln Weldanpower 225 CV(4) SA200   1 short hood    SA250    SAM 400
Reply:We always just used a bearing separator and put it in the press, or if installing new bearings, just cut the old ones off.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."Originally Posted by farmersammGood luck, sounds like me...........make do with what you got
Reply:I worry too much, but it is nearly completed. Everything pressed off w/o head and the pinion depth is slightly off, but after torquing the pinion nut 5 times and lifting the carrier; It's quitting time for today. I'll wrap it up tomorrow. If anyone wants pics of the tool let me know and I'll post some. It is the same deal as the picture I posted before, but square tubing.Millermatic250Miller Spoolmate 200Miller Spoolmatic 1Lincoln tombstone with century DC converter1945 K.O. Lee company stick welder (looks like R2D2)Miller 30E feederHobart AH27 FeederMiller Thunderbolt AC/DC
Reply:Nice to here you made progress .... well done
Reply:Thanks! Me too. It has been a learning experience and now I know why the shops charge so much for it.Millermatic250Miller Spoolmate 200Miller Spoolmatic 1Lincoln tombstone with century DC converter1945 K.O. Lee company stick welder (looks like R2D2)Miller 30E feederHobart AH27 FeederMiller Thunderbolt AC/DC