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Don't know what type of lens's you guys use.  I have recently been using a Phillips safety gold lens and it is excellent, but not as nice as the Wens lens I saw someone post about.  I ordered one to see and fellas, this is the best lens I've used.  They call it the new cool blue.  I have never used the original but if it's better than this I can understand a little more of the pricing.  You almost see too well.  You can see arc characteristics penetration so much better than other products.  I will never use an auto again in my hood until they catch up with this quality.  If your a mark for welding like I am and do some tough code work; I highly recommend them.  Also, I am in no way affiliated with this company.  I just read a thread and decided to try one.  check them out on Facebook and thank me later.
Reply:Well pay ATTENTION to what this lens CAN'T  do for you!Be used ALONE!It adds ONLY one half shade number OVERALL!It must be used with your regular welding hood lens.Burn 2 eyeballs at once otherwise
Reply:Well, it's a shade 11.  Comparable to any other shade lens as far as darkness goes.  I don't think I'm gonna see anything using it with my regular lens.  I've used it for the last few days and I have not burnt my eyes.  what makes you think this?
Reply:bluelightmanThanks for the evaluation.In the day, I had two hoods with AO Blues - $11.00.I can still the clarity the first time I used one.Eventually I broke both lenses  -  I still have a sleeve.I flipped a hood professionally with stick and wire for 20 years  -  then shifted with intensity to TIG.My shift corresponds with the introduction of auto-hoods.To advance my learning-curve, I thought I needed one, and bought one.It a Speedglas 9000X - it's my primary hood, and I hate it.  The auto function works well in open conditions, but fails in tight quarters; and because I cannot stop flippingthe hood, it regularly rolls off my head [head-gear flaw].I am now proficient with TIG to my stick and wire levels;but my hand is only as good as what I can see.On your testimonial, I am going to test-drive a Wens.http://wenscoolblueweldinglens.com/I have not had a fixed-shade lens/nor the hood to carryone for a long time, hence a question . . .What current hood/shells would you recommend for mylens incarnation.Opus
Reply:Well...I use a 110-p fiber metal with a 2x4 1/4 viewing area.  That cuts a lot of costs in clear lens which I am anal about being clean.  I also have a sellstrom flip front adapter in it.  I like to be able to flip it for arc strikes in some positions and it's great for grinding.  If you'll look online there are several flip front style hoods.  Jackson, Huntsman, and so on.  I really like sellstrom as well.  They make a flip front full viewing hood.  I've only used the 110p and pancakes besides a Lincoln Viking helmet I use to grind more than anything.  I definitely like the flip fronts for standard lenses because of how versatile they are.  If you need the full viewing area I'm sure there are some out there.  Just google or ask a local air gas ect.  Some hoods were listed here.  http://www.grainger.com/category/welding-helmetsJust my opinion.  I love the 110 p with a sellstrom flip front adapter put in it.  They are a great hood anyway and when the adapter goes in they're even better.  Most people cut them down around the neck area.  It was the first helmet my dad gave me and used so I am biased .  There is a video on youtube of how to put in the adapter and cut the 110-p.  Get what fits you.  What is applicable to your operations.  I definitely think you'll like the lens and maybe even more so with a flip in it.  Keep me posted on it.  I'd like others opinion on them as well.Also.  It's nice having the auto for arc strikes and such but I think using a better lens is completely worth it.  You just have to get used to dropping your hood again or take advantage of the flip front.  The way to go for 90 percent of applications.  Just my opinion.Last edited by bluelightman; 03-01-2014 at 11:46 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by OPUS FERRObluelightmanThanks for the evaluation.In the day, I had two hoods with AO Blues - $11.00.I can still the clarity the first time I used one.Eventually I broke both lenses  -  I still have a sleeve.I flipped a hood professionally with stick and wire for 20 years  -  then shifted with intensity to TIG.My shift corresponds with the introduction of auto-hoods.To advance my learning-curve, I thought I needed one, and bought one.It a Speedglas 9000X - it's my primary hood, and I hate it.  The auto function works well in open conditions, but fails in tight quarters; and because I cannot stop flippingthe hood, it regularly rolls off my head [head-gear flaw].I am now proficient with TIG to my stick and wire levels;but my hand is only as good as what I can see.On your testimonial, I am going to test-drive a Wens.http://wenscoolblueweldinglens.com/I have not had a fixed-shade lens/nor the hood to carryone for a long time, hence a question . . .What current hood/shells would you recommend for mylens incarnation.Opus
Reply:Is AO out of business? I can't believe someone can't duplicate their product."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:Originally Posted by Stick-manIs AO out of business? I can't believe someone can't duplicate their product.
Reply:Bluelight,are you talking about the New Cool Blue or the Wens Lens Ultra?  Both from the same mfgr, $100 diff in price.*And limited to the first 100 customers???  Sounds like a RonCo commercial...Lincoln SA 200Esab Caddy 160Thermal Arc 201TSMiller Dialarc HFI don't like making plans for the day because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around the courtroom....
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749Dang, OPUS. I didn't think I would find anyone who didnt like the Speedglas helmet.
Reply:The new cool blue.  They didn't have the ultra posted when I got mine.  The 39.99 one.  I would have to see some crazy good reviews before I pay that much for the ultra.  I don't see how it can be worth that much?  They had some video of the new cool on youtube.  I wonder if they will do the same for the ultra.  I just don't know if I need to pay that much.  I like the new cool blue just fine.  I saw the first 100 pre order deal too.  When I'm ready dammit!
Reply:ok, I have been in the habit of using cheapo plastic gold lenses, and throwing them away after every few cover changes because they get scratched up.I think I scratch them up because when I change cover lenses, I always have a bit of fine dust or whatever on my filter lens that I wipe off with my shirtsleeve, rag, hair, whatever is handy.so, how do you guys make your nice lenses last forever? I want to invest in one of these but am afraid of screwing it up I guessbosses stuff:trailblazer 325maxstar 200my stuff:sa 200fronius transpocket 180100 amp Lincoln w/f97 f350 DITKevin
Reply:Originally Posted by 92dlxmanso, how do you guys make your nice lenses last forever? I want to invest in one of these but am afraid of screwing it up I guess
Reply:thanks cep, I might have to give one of these a shot. it just struck me though. . . . .food plants HATE glass. course I have never had one of my hoods inspected so I could prolly get away with it bosses stuff:trailblazer 325maxstar 200my stuff:sa 200fronius transpocket 180100 amp Lincoln w/f97 f350 DITKevin
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPI use a piece of flannel cloth to wipe my color lenses. Or those wet naps. Don't use any paper products, they will scratch the glass!
Reply:Speedglass 9100XX.  No dice.  Rip'd a NIB model on a fire sale last year. The absolute worst headgear ever donned.  No joke.  No way would pay full price for this rig.  Clarity is nice, but the headgear is ubber-adjustable and yet fails to deliver. Flimsy and not form fitting.  Inside volume to way large, hood won't stay up, and the side windows are distractors.Relegated to using my beat up Lincoln Viking ADF (awesome ratcheted headgear).  And, set'n up a Pipeliner w/ flip front Au glass lense and ratcheted headgear.  Basic.Either retro'n the 9100XX with a ratcheted headgear (parts unknown), or she's going up for sale....Last edited by ManoKai; 03-02-2014 at 07:56 PM."Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:i guess it's all about personal preference. I hate passive shades with a passion. I have tried a few of the gold lenses over the years and they were good but again I would rather get kicked in the nuts daily then use a passive shade.  A far as optical quality goes I can't imagine a better lens then the Jackson Balder BH3 I'm using now.  IMO there is not a better lens, passive or auto, out there.Idealarc 250AC 225SVictor OA-older made in USA stuff.And a crap ton of other stuff.
Reply:Originally Posted by OPUS FERRObluelightmanThanks for the evaluation.In the day, I had two hoods with AO Blues - $11.00.I can still the clarity the first time I used one.Eventually I broke both lenses  -  I still have a sleeve.I flipped a hood professionally with stick and wire for 20 years  -  then shifted with intensity to TIG.My shift corresponds with the introduction of auto-hoods.To advance my learning-curve, I thought I needed one, and bought one.It a Speedglas 9000X - it's my primary hood, and I hate it.  The auto function works well in open conditions, but fails in tight quarters; and because I cannot stop flippingthe hood, it regularly rolls off my head [head-gear flaw].I am now proficient with TIG to my stick and wire levels;but my hand is only as good as what I can see.On your testimonial, I am going to test-drive a Wens.http://wenscoolblueweldinglens.com/I have not had a fixed-shade lens/nor the hood to carryone for a long time, hence a question . . .What current hood/shells would you recommend for mylens incarnation.Opus
Reply:I just happened to be looking at this web forum and came across this topic. I don't know what sky high iron man is talking about but it ain't my lens I don't even have a lens that you use in conjunction with another lens. I think you have my lens confused with another.
Reply:Bluelightman I will help you out if you want to try an ultra out. It is made from the original new cool blue lens. I started hearing complaints from all over about my lens, that it wasn't blue enough, so back to the drawing board I went. I finally came up with something that I could put out and say" Now that's a blue lens". Then I had some guy tell me that it was too blue. I just scratched my head on that one.
Reply:Sorry dubl_t, I did not mean to sound that way but that was when I first designed the ultra and I was still fairly new in business. But I was trying.
Reply:Originally Posted by Wens LensSorry dubl_t, I did not mean to sound that way but that was when I first designed the ultra and I was still fairly new in business. But I was trying.
Reply:No doubt , im sure we could get a group buy together.
Reply:Originally Posted by spooled05No doubt , im sure we could get a group buy together.
Reply:I will get my wife to work up some kind of coupon for all the guys on Welding Web. Hows that sound?Originally Posted by Wens LensI will get my wife to work up some kind of coupon for all the guys on Welding Web. Hows that sound?
Reply:Well to tell you the truth my lens is not going to do cartwheels. It will lay there all day long. Have you ever welded with an American Optics lens , developed by TSO. Optical quality is what you look for in a lens or else it is nota lens but a piece of glass. If you break one piece of my lens and not the other, you would be the first. But of course , you would not want to use the lens anymore if that happened. If you have never welded with a good quality lens, you are missing it. The glass that I developed for the ultra has three functions; 1) I clarifies your view, 2) It defines what you see, so its like welding in HD,3) It only allows blue light to be transmitted through it. Blue light is great for welding. The color contrast makes smoke virtually disappear. I build my lenses in my shop and I personally hand craft each one. You get what you pay for. I won't make my lens cheaper because I refuse to be known for another cheap lens.
Reply:Would you send one to DJ (southpaw on this forum) for an unbiased review? He is planning a Weld-O-Rama 4 in Los Angeles early August.If you are more comfortable you could send it to me( I am also in Los Angeles), and I forward it to him as long as I get to try it. And I am a passive lens guy, and have a Phillips safety gold #10. I will load them both into Jackson 411p hoods for side by side comparisons. Then he can send it back to you unless someone wants to buy it.Weld like a "WELDOR", not a wel-"DERR" MillerDynasty700DX,Dynasty350DX4ea,Dynasty200DX,Li  ncolnSW200-2ea.,MillerMatic350P,MillerMatic200w/spoolgun,MKCobraMig260,Lincoln SP-170T,PlasmaCam/Hypertherm1250,HFProTig2ea,MigMax1ea.
Reply:Originally Posted by shovelonWould you send one to DJ (southpaw on this forum) for an unbiased review? He is planning a Weld-O-Rama 4 in Los Angeles early August.If you are more comfortable you could send it to me( I am also in Los Angeles), and I forward it to him as long as I get to try it. And I am a passive lens guy, and have a Phillips safety gold #10. I will load them both into Jackson 411p hoods for side by side comparisons. Then he can send it back to you unless someone wants to buy it.
Reply:Originally Posted by rschreckThis guy is not a fan of Speedglas. I bought the 100V series (got a great deal on it from my old LWS) to see what all the craziness was about and I hate it. In fact...anyone interested in a Speedglas 100V 9-13 hood? It's the "Trojan Warrior" one. Have a ton of spare clear lenses for it also.
Reply:Originally Posted by Wens LensWell to tell you the truth my lens is not going to do cartwheels. It will lay there all day long. Have you ever welded with an American Optics lens , developed by TSO. Optical quality is what you look for in a lens or else it is nota lens but a piece of glass. If you break one piece of my lens and not the other, you would be the first. But of course , you would not want to use the lens anymore if that happened. If you have never welded with a good quality lens, you are missing it. The glass that I developed for the ultra has three functions; 1) I clarifies your view, 2) It defines what you see, so its like welding in HD,3) It only allows blue light to be transmitted through it. Blue light is great for welding. The color contrast makes smoke virtually disappear. I build my lenses in my shop and I personally hand craft each one. You get what you pay for. I won't make my lens cheaper because I refuse to be known for another cheap lens.
Reply:Sure . Send me the address and shade that you will need and I would be happy to .
Reply:Oh by the way , the one time only intro sale is over and I don't forsee a generic version . I wish I could cut cost some how but I don't want to skimp on materials and if I drop the price any more I will just have to quit making my lens and go back to work welding.
Reply:between the hokey web site and a few qualification contradictions observed by other posters i think i'll keep my cash (and my 5 dollar filter) and wish you luck in your new venture.Last edited by docwelder; 07-15-2014 at 04:37 AM.i.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:+1 on the ww discount. Regards,RobGreat Basin WeldingInstagramBlue weldersRed weldersMy luscious Table DIY TIG Torch cooler
Reply:Well , do we get a discount or what? Im interested in trying one out.
Reply:Originally Posted by bluelightmanDon't know what type of lens's you guys use.  I have recently been using a Phillips safety gold lens and it is excellent, but not as nice as the Wens lens I saw someone post about.  I ordered one to see and fellas, this is the best lens I've used.  They call it the new cool blue.  I have never used the original but if it's better than this I can understand a little more of the pricing.  You almost see too well.  You can see arc characteristics penetration so much better than other products.  I will never use an auto again in my hood until they catch up with this quality.  If your a mark for welding like I am and do some tough code work; I highly recommend them.  Also, I am in no way affiliated with this company.  I just read a thread and decided to try one.  check them out on Facebook and thank me later.
Reply:I think he got mad and leftBacked my CATMA over your CARMA oops clusmy me  What would SATAN do ?? Miller Trailblazer 302 AirPakMiller Digital Elite  Optrel Welding HatArcair K4000Suitcase 12RC / 12 VSHypertherm PM-45Rage 3 sawRusty old Truck
Reply:Hey Willie B.  I use the #11, now, AULECTRO.  The lens's have changed since I posted originally.  I do not  have the ULTRA or any of the blues.  The Blue or Aqua aulecktro or however you spell it.  Good luck, hope you find one you enjoy.
Reply:I see that you  also have on your site a auto-hood for sale.  Could you tell us about it?
Reply:Got a chance to use a buddies Wens lens shade #10 (also I have used a OG AO cool blue #12) and it was extremely clear but very bright for my liking. The AO shade #12 almost seems like a shade #10 IMO. But the Wens lens is every bit as good as the AO. I just bought a Wens lens ultra blue 5/32 in a shade #11 (figure it would be a balance between the two) and a AULEKTRO Aqua in shade #11 so I'll let you guys know how they work. I weld pipe stick mostly, and the clarity these lenses give is crazy...my buddy who has the AO shade #12 paid like $400 for his...
Reply:Originally Posted by 7A749I have asked the guy for some information like twice and all I got back was a single question asking me if I ever used a blue lens before. I wrote him a response and left a message on his phone. Guess he's too busy to return phone calls too. My concern was exactly what you mentioned, that the blue lens is a LOT brighter than other styles. I was a little reluctant to buy one then end up having it burn my eyeballs out of my head the first time I used it.I'm betting he doesn't accept returns. Sounds like 11 is the way to go. I was kinda thinking the same thing, it being a split between too bright and possibly too dark. It's gotten to where I need a lighter lens to see the peripherals but if it's too light, my eyes pay for it later. I'm using a shade ten Lincoln Super Visibility lens right now and it is pretty clear and doesn't screw with my eyes afterwards.I'm not a professional welder tho, nor do I weld every day.Please post up how it works and what you think of it.Thanks.
Reply:Got the AULEKTRO aqua shade 11 in the mail from Wens, its pretty good for a fixed shade very clear...but its no AO or Wens...but its also only $30 so its a damn good deal. A co-worker of mine said it was just like the Lincoln Super hi-vis. If I were to buy this lens again I would get a #10 being they seem pretty true to shade unlike the AO or Wens. My Wens Ultra "new cool blue" should be in any day.
Reply:I have a Aulerotek shade 9. It is clear and aqua green blue. $30. Good buyI broke my regular Wens Lens shade 10. It was a good blue and very clear. $40 great buy, but obsolete. And I have been using a Wens Lens Ultra shade 10 for a few months. It is very very blue. But it seems darker than a shade 10 to me. Almost like its a 12. Expensive and too dark for me. So I have spent around $300+ on WL's product so far.Local 83
Reply:I have been using this gem and really love it, not sure who makes it, seems blue to me but green to my camera, I googled athermal but that seems to be more of a description than a brand. can anybody tell me about it?I found it in the truck I bought a while ago. there was another one I saw on my test-drive in a fancy case that was apparently taken when the widow "cleaned" the truck out for me upon purchase Last edited by 92dlxman; 08-23-2014 at 10:53 PM.bosses stuff:trailblazer 325maxstar 200my stuff:sa 200fronius transpocket 180100 amp Lincoln w/f97 f350 DITKevin
Reply:Originally Posted by 92dlxmanI have been using this gem and really love it, not sure who makes it, seems blue to me but green to my camera, I googled athermal but that seems to be more of a description than a brand. can anybody tell me about it?I found it in the truck I bought a while ago. there was another one I saw on my test-drive in a fancy case that was apparently taken when the widow "cleaned" the truck out for me upon purchase
Reply:awesome thanks! I'll order another one and see if its the same, the one I have is obviously a little beat and I fear for my eyes!since using it, I cant hardly weld with anything else anymorebosses stuff:trailblazer 325maxstar 200my stuff:sa 200fronius transpocket 180100 amp Lincoln w/f97 f350 DITKevin
Reply:Originally Posted by ManoKaiSpeedglass 9100XX.  No dice.  Rip'd a NIB model on a fire sale last year. The absolute worst headgear ever donned.  No joke.  No way would pay full price for this rig.  Clarity is nice, but the headgear is ubber-adjustable and yet fails to deliver. Flimsy and not form fitting.  Inside volume to way large, hood won't stay up, and the side windows are distractors.Relegated to using my beat up Lincoln Viking ADF (awesome ratcheted headgear).  And, set'n up a Pipeliner w/ flip front Au glass lense and ratcheted headgear.  Basic.Either retro'n the 9100XX with a ratcheted headgear (parts unknown), or she's going up for sale....
Reply:I bought the cheaper version aqua blue shade nine I also used a cheater lens running 1/8 7018. I hope I didnt get flashburn. I guess ill know in a number of hours. Does anyone know first hand if a shade 9 is to light for 1/8 stick with a cheater?
Reply:garlandlarry56 I can only speak from my expireince but for me a #9 is way to light for 1/8" lowhy, I use a #12 for'em. If you have to squint while welding or see blue when done it's too light.Ranger 250 thick stuffHobart Handler 140 not thick stuffthe pane and oxy setup