Suggestions on project, sheetmetal to square tube

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Hey guys,So I'm fairly new here and have never messed with sheetmetal really.I'm planning out a project for a tool locker of sorts and need some advice.Basically ill be building a frame out of 2x2x1/8" square tubing, it will be 30" deep, 26" wide and 66" tall (with cross members at 35" up)Basically I want to fill the openings with sheetmetal (I'm thinking 14 gauge unless you feel that's too much)I will be painting it and I'm trying to figure out the nicest look/best method of attaching the sheet. I've considered completely welding it and then grinding it flush, folding an inward lip and tacking it to the tube leaving the gap between tube and sheet open (or using a bodywork filler and sanding it smooth), using rivets, or welding a box that will enclose the whole thing and tacking it in from behind. Also is it going to be difficult doing the 1/8" tube to 14ga using stick welding? I could use tig but I still need to practice tig. I was figuring on 3/32 7018 on DCEP, any suggestions here will be great tooThanks!
Reply:14 ga is roughly 3/32". 1/8" to 3/32" is doable, but it will not be easy with stick, especially if you don't have a lot of experience. Lap welds in the flat position will be your best option. You might find smaller rods easier to use than 3/32". This will let you decrease your amps and reduce the tendency to burn thru. The down side is that smaller rods are often wimpy and flexible. One solution would be to cut the rods in half, and scrape off the flux on the one half so you can still use the rod. How successful you are will depend greatly on your skill level with stick.7018 or 7014 would be my choice on rods. I'd run 3/32" rods with no problems myself. As I mentioned you might find smaller rods a bit easier to run, 5/64" or 1/16" because you can turn down the amps a bit more than on 3/32". I've never been a big fan of 6013 myself and not everyone runs it well. It wouldn't be a bad choice for this however if you weld well with it. I'd opt for the rod you run best as strength here really won't matter.I'd strongly suggest you get plenty of scrap and do lots of practice runs to dial in amps and travel speed. If you have access to mig and solid wire/gas, that would really be the way to go. Tig would be my #2 choice, FC wire #3 and stick last. ( It's been too many years since I did OA to put that on my list)Keep in mind whatever process you use, you will need to jump around a fair bit to keep heat input down or the sheets will oilcan on you and warp. Tig vs stick, tig would give you the most heat control and allow you to run the smallest bead..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I think rivets would look the bestIf you weld the 14 ga solid, it going to warpIf you can brake a pan out of the sheet metal then slip it in the frame leg in, spot weld on the inside.In my opinion, 2x2 will look goofy,1.5 would look better
Reply:Originally Posted by DSW7018 or 7014 would be my choice on rods. I'd run 3/32" rods with no problems myself. As I mentioned you might find smaller rods a bit easier to run, 5/64" or 1/16" because you can turn down the amps a bit more than on 3/32". I've never been a big fan of 6013 myself and not everyone runs it well. It wouldn't be a bad choice for this however if you weld well with it. I'd opt for the rod you run best as strength here really won't matter.I'd strongly suggest you get plenty of scrap and do lots of practice runs to dial in amps and travel speed. If you have access to mig and solid wire/gas, that would really be the way to go. Keep in mind whatever process you use, you will need to jump around a fair bit to keep heat input down or the sheets will oilcan on you and warp. Tig vs stick, tig would give you the most heat control and allow you to run the smallest bead.
Reply:I would suggest 3/32" 6010 or 6011, depending on what machine you have. Despite being a "deep penetrating" rod, it actually works quite well with thin sheet and poor fit-ups.No need to weld it all the way up. A short weld every few inches will make a mechanically-sound structure with less distortion.JohnA few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps
Reply:If you have access to a mig welder, spot welding would be my choice.  It is fast and creates very little distortion.  You can buy a special gas nozzle for the mig, the end looks like a rook (castle) in a chess set. (notches cut around the end)  The notches allow you to put pressure on the thin metal holding it tightly against the metal underneath, while gas and smoke can escape through the notches so you get continuous gas flow.  You push in with the mig gun, pull the trigger for a couple of seconds and the wire burns through the top layer, melts the metal underneath and forms a spot weld.  A spot/stitch timer on the mig is ideal, but you can do it manually, just count off the time and release the trigger, practice this first until you get it right every time."The reason we are here is that we are not all there"SA 200Idealarc TM 300 300MM 200MM 25130a SpoolgunPrecision Tig 375Invertec V350 ProSC-32 CS 12 Wire FeederOxweld/Purox O/AArcAirHypertherm Powermax 85LN25
Reply:I'd recommend 3/32" 7014's and quickly welding downhill.  That is IF.... you're experienced at sheet metal welding with stick.   Otherwise, mig it!Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member