Best way to anchor post for a gate opening on concrete?

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I'm in the process of fencing in my back porch to keep the kid away from the pool. I'm reusing some gate material I got for free but I'm worried about the free standing post that is half of the entry gate. One half of the gate will be bolted to a brick wall (this is the post that the gate door will be attached to), the other half will be at the end of a 8 foot run. I'm trying to find the best way to set the post so that it is as stiff as I can make it. I was thinking that I could break up the concrete and set the post, but that is a ton of work (and a 100$ rental). Will a simple 5"x5"  bottom plate and 4 concrete bolts be enough? The fence posts are 3" 14 gauge square tube. Thanks!- mattPrecision TIG 225MillerMatic 250Powermax 35XPPowermax 65TM 4X4 w/ water tableLagun FTV1Monarch 10EEJD2 M3 with hydro conversion
Reply:What you described is what I did recently for a job at a elevator, 8' gate, gate was made out of 1 1/2" 3/16" wall tubing, stands 42" high.  5x5 3/8" plate, 4 3/8" concrete anchors.
Reply:Originally Posted by 1967martiI'm trying to find the best way to set the post so that it is as stiff as I can make it. I was thinking that I could break up the concrete and set the post, but that is a ton of work (and a 100$ rental). Will a simple 5"x5"  bottom plate and 4 concrete bolts be enough? The fence posts are 3" 14 gauge square tube.
Reply:The way I do it is find the center of your post and dig a 12" deep circle 12" deep. In the center of the hole drill a 9" diameter hole to 30", or 36" deep. Pour the complete hole full of concrete and set your post. For a single post or two, I just do it by hand with a post hole digger. More than that and the tractor and auger comes into play. Finish the grade how you like with either expose aggregate, (rock) or if keeping the concrete below grade, sod, (grass). Don't worry about post height at this time as you will cut it off at the correct height later once the concrete is set up and gate is mounted.SlobPurveyor of intimate unparalleled knowledge of nothing about everything.Oh yeah, also an unabashed internet "Troll" too.....
Reply:can you make a shorter gate?  If not a primary entry, then i would use the (heavy) plate ad anchors.I have used a northern tools metal cutting circular saw to cut concrete. with masonry blade. dusty.
Reply:A 1/4'' thick base plate would be better and 4 concrete 3/8'' anchors will work. It may help adding  wheels on the gate ends which would take some stress off of the posts.
Reply:As others have mentioned, it depends on the concrete you will be anchoring into. I suggest to drill through the slab to determine thickness. 4" inches or more will be ideal. Once you have determined thickness, choose the longest anchors without dropping through the bottom. Anchors that are too short can and will spall the top of slab when you tighten them. And leave you screwed ( pun intended). 1/2" stainless steel wedge anchors with washers will be strong enough, don't forget to antisieze the threads.
Reply:Here are some pics and a super-high-speed cad rendering of the gate plan... The gate will be a 3 foot wide man-gate that will be the sole entry/exit point from the house to pool. The gate will be attached to the while 8x8 pillar on the left, so I'm not worried about sagging or support for the gate itself, just the opposite post. The concrete is 5 inch thick and strong (will hold anchors well). I'm planning on using a deadbolt spring-latch (like your everyday bathroom doorknob) so if there is alot of sway the latch my pop out of its hole. The wife is fine with me renting a hammer and breaking up the concrete. If I go that route I will pic up some 1/4 thick 3x3 square tube to use as the post as I figure that would end up being much stiffer and last longer.Precision TIG 225MillerMatic 250Powermax 35XPPowermax 65TM 4X4 w/ water tableLagun FTV1Monarch 10EEJD2 M3 with hydro conversion
Reply:Just for clarification... The smaller fence on the left side of the white pillar is the newly fabricated gate, the taller section on the right is the donor fence that is being cut and reused. The donor gate is not bolted down, I just propped up the pieces that I had to get a visual of what I had to work with.Precision TIG 225MillerMatic 250Powermax 35XPPowermax 65TM 4X4 w/ water tableLagun FTV1Monarch 10EEJD2 M3 with hydro conversion
Reply:Just curious, what's wrong with the gate now? Edit- you posted while I was typing I don't think you need to dig up the concrete. Drive some anchors and secure the 3x3 post.The rigidness of the latch post is going to come from the tube size.Ed Conleyhttp://www.screamingbroccoli.com/MM252MM211 (Sold)Passport Plus & Spool gunLincoln SP135 Plus- (Gone to a good home)Klutch 120v Plasma cutterSO 2020 benderBeer in the fridge
Reply:Have you given any thought to extending the gate post up to the top and anchoring it to the overhead as well? That would add lots of extra stability to it. Get the 3x3 tubing long enough to go from top to bottom and attach it at both ends. No need to break up concrete and re-pour.
Reply:My original plan was to run the 3x3 post up to the overhead... But the wife killed that idea real fast. The original gate was just over 7 feet tall and made the back porch look like a prison. I'm cutting and re-welding to a height of 54 inch (legal minimum here is 48") and painting everything  white.Precision TIG 225MillerMatic 250Powermax 35XPPowermax 65TM 4X4 w/ water tableLagun FTV1Monarch 10EEJD2 M3 with hydro conversion
Reply:I agree with Bistineau, go from top to bottom, anchor at top and bottom, done and strong. Just for clarification, I deliver fencing, work in our fab shop as well, have seen a lot of challenging situations. Check your codes for gate latches, some are very strict to keep small kids from getting into pool areas unattended. RegardsDave
Reply:Originally Posted by 1967martiMy original plan was to run the 3x3 post up to the overhead... But the wife killed that idea real fast.
Reply:A white fence visually stands out.A black fence visually 'fades out' more than a white one.IMNSHO.As mentioned, check for detailed  Code requirements in your locale as to pool fencing and pool gates.  Last time I checked  in -my- locale, there were height requirements and construction requirements (vertical only balusters to reduce climbing opportunities as well as baluster spacing requirements).  Also requirements as to self-latching and self-closing AND latch-actuation-height (sort-of kiddie-resistant height-wise).  And probably also some overall 'strength' requirement along the lines of '200 lb person leaning/pushing on fence/gate will not cause fence/gate to fall/fail'.Check.As far as the gate post, if the concrete is 'strong enough' (sounds like your's should be) then a 1/4" thick base plate anchored with four bolts would be plenty strong.  Especially if you ran the post to the top and anchored there as well.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:I agree going to the top for a tie in.  That was the first thing I thought when I saw the picture.  Dan D.Manipulator Of Metal
Reply:Originally Posted by DanD78I agree going to the top for a tie in.  That was the first thing I thought when I saw the picture.  Dan D.
Reply:Core drill?.  Hire somebody might be cheaper.  50 buck per hole last time I checked.  Plates will work. 5in cconcrete will meet minimum depth and max strength for any suitable anchor for this job.  You can even use epoxy.  Good luck.I typically avoid planting rails around swimming poles, since water is a given.  Plates shed water.Last edited by tapwelder; 10-01-2014 at 09:48 PM.