Syncrowave 250 arc problem on AC only, please help!

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Ok, I recently bought a used syncrowave 250. When I took it for a test run it when's fine. Now, when I hooked it up at my shop it skips on AC. I closed the HF gap to 0.006 and the arc is more steady, I can only weld a decent bead with the HF on continuos, if I use the HF on start only the amperage jumps up and down. On DC it welds perfect. What can this be?
Reply:Originally Posted by Cdavid82Ok, I recently bought a used syncrowave 250. When I took it for a test run it when's fine. Now, when I hooked it up at my shop it skips on AC. I closed the HF gap to 0.006 and the arc is more steady, I can only weld a decent bead with the HF on continuos, if I use the HF on start only the amperage jumps up and down. On DC it welds perfect. What can this be?
Reply:HF is used to start the arc on DC. On AC it needs to restart the arc every time the machine switches back and forth from DC+ to DC- and back. Thus you want it on "continuous" for AC..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Ok sounds good, this is my first syncrowave. My other issues are1. On DC I hear the HF start but the arc doesn't jump, I have to scratch.2. What is an all around balance setting?3. I noticed my 3/32 tungsten melting at 170 amp.4. What's a good gap on the HF
Reply:Issues with HF start on DC usually have to do with one of two problems, dirty/fouled tungsten, or the gap needs to be reset on the HF points.Ballance would depend on how clean the material is. I usually leave it set to 6-7 on the dial if I have reasonably clean material and brush it well. The manual explains the settings. IIRC 3 on the dial is 50/50 and 10 is something like 68%.Which tungsten you are using will change how many amps it will take. I can get by with 3/32" lananated at 150-180 amps, but it balls up more than I usually prefer at the upper end. 1/8" will take more amps and is often what I use in that range unless I really need a pinpoint arc like with outside corners.You can go online to millers site and download the manual for your machine. It will tell you what to set the gap at for your machine.http://www.millerwelds.com/service/ownersmanuals.php.No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Thanks dsw
Reply:Tungsten melting can be caused by a couple of things, wrong polarity Torch should be negative and work is positive. another is wrong size or type. Each type and size tungsten have a proper range of operation. A minimum amp setting and a max setting. Trying to use below minimum and the arc will be unstable and hard to keep going.Above max, and it may melt at any time. Wrong polarity and the tungsten may ball and will melt off at much lower than max amps. Check the HF points, If they are pitted, replace them. Good Hf generation needs parallel spark gap point faces. Gap them at 0.008. The only cleaning I recommend is to take the points out and clean them with a bench powered wire brush.Then inspect for cupping and pitting. Be careful not to break the mounting plate for the clamps. Rusted points can be difficult  to remove. you can spread clamp or soften the rust. Clean all oil and dust off before putting into use.