Have at me...learning SMAW on my own.

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Could someone here help me out a little with some advice regarding my SMAW.  Most of my welds are looking like this and Im trying to figure out what Im doing wrong.  Too fast/slow, too hot/cold, etc?  Any advice would be mucho appreciated.  Ive only got about 4 hours under the hood foolin' around on my own so dont expect a miracle!  Im sure it shows that I dont know what the heck Im doin'.3/32- 7018 @ 70A:ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:You mean FCAW? SMAW uses the stick electrodes. They look okay so far for FCAW, your metal looks clean and no slag or spatter. Take a side pic for a profile. Then take a pic of the underside of the metal used. Any burn-through?Sorry, now that I re-read, you mention 3/32 7018. I forgot the 200DX does both GTAW and SMAW. Last edited by MicroZone; 01-30-2007 at 12:20 AM.John -  fabricator extraordinaire, car nut!-  bleeding Miller blue! http://www.weldfabzone.com
Reply:it appears that you are going at different rates of speed throughout the bead, how thick is the metal?
Reply:Gad, I forgot a side pic.  Will try to get that up tomorrow.  No burn through (no distortion or discoloration, etc).  So, I couldnt tell from your post is it looking worse than you thought or better? At least Im getting my 90 degree angles pretty regularly.  Also, when breaking a weld in a vice how many "swats" should it take to break loose?ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:As long as it's practice crank it up. There are some ridges showing that indicate that it could wet out (flow) just a bit more and not hurt. It's trying to wet at the edges but not quite there.
Reply:if you have a quality weld, it should be as strong or stronger than the base metal. So it shouldent break, just bend the base metal.
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyAs long as it's practice crank it up. There are some ridges showing that indicate that it could wet out (flow) just a bit more and not hurt. It's trying to wet at the edges but not quite there.
Reply:Also, when breaking a weld in a vice how many "swats" should it take to break loose?
Reply:Good cause that's what Im getting now.  Ill turn it up a little too.  Most of my time has bee with a 15A 110 outlet...just changed that to a 50A 220 and have to "recalibrate" myself to the new power.Seriously, thanks for helping me out with this.  Bought a 5" Harbor Freight vice that opens to 8.5" for under $20.  Also has an anvil and swivels.  Any other advice on my weld?Last edited by DirtyLittleSecret; 01-30-2007 at 12:47 AM.ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:Ok, Ill bite, whats wrong with that bead?  I see very little undercut, looks like a fairly uniform bead, I thinks thats pretty much what a good smaw bead looks like.  If I see one better, Ill let you know...I think the test with this stuff is, how consistant you can be with it.  I have trouble with a new stick at the beginning (probably a machine setting I need to tweak).  Its allways too cold at the start, then goes nuts after Im a 1/4 inch into it, then smooths out after I have a little more than 2/3 of the rod left, then at the end I have a crater (Ive learned to beat the slag off, then fill it in).  I think it has something to do with little ol me and the fact I need to keep practicing.  If you want to feel better, heres me after a couple hours hood time with stick.. 6013 1/8 rod 1/4 inch steel, no burn through, 130 amps dcen (straight polarity). Attached ImagesVarious GrindersVictor Journeyman torch200cf Acet. 250cf oxygenLincoln 175 plus/alpha2 gunLincoln v205t tigLincoln 350mpEsab 650 plasmaWhen you can get up in the morning, Its a good day.Live each day like its your last.
Reply:Oh man oh man, I've tried stick with my invertig, maybe 6 rods worth, and your bead at the start of this thread is approximately a million percent better than mine.I'm using 6011 electrodes, can that be an excuse? - John
Reply:Originally Posted by DirtyLittleSecretGood cause that's what Im getting now.  Ill turn it up a little too.  Most of my time has bee with a 15A 110 outlet...just changed that to a 50A 220 and have to "recalibrate" myself to the new power.Seriously, thanks for helping me out with this.  Any other advice?
Reply:Originally Posted by runchmanOh man oh man, I've tried stick with my invertig, maybe 6 rods worth, and your bead at the start of this thread is approximately a million percent better than mine.I'm using 6011 electrodes, can that be an excuse? - John
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyWell I think when you go to the 230 feed you'll be surprised. May solve a lot of issues right there. Looked good tho.
Reply:sometimes you have to weld things that are on the floor, but its no big deal, just get some knee pads for about ten bucks at wal-mart. when i was sexteen I learned the hard way i always though knee pads where for a whuss but i found out that that was bull when i had to have the fluid drained from my knees. Since that i have learned to where knee pads.
Reply:Originally Posted by DirtyLittleSecretThat's half of my issue is getting used to the new 220 outlet.  Its truely amazing how 220 acts completely differently than 110.  VERY impressive.Im just trying to get good enough to build my fab table so I can get off the concrete floor...my knees are hurting.
Reply:Originally Posted by migmansometimes you have to weld things that are on the floor, but its no big deal, just get some knee pads for about ten bucks at wal-mart. when i was sexteen I learned the hard way i always though knee pads where for a whuss but i found out that that was bull when i had to have the fluid drained from my knees. Since that i have learned to where knee pads.
Reply:Yeah i know what you mean, i have back problems, a welding table is a priceless "tool" to have, its really nice to have a table that you can sit at and weld, but my new table is a little to high for that.
Reply:i would also recommend try E6013 electrodes.
Reply:Is the 6013 a medium penetration?  Ive only had experience with 7018 and 6010/6011.  Much preferred the 6011 to the 6010.ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:moderate penetration
Reply:6013 has good penetration, but produces less spatter and and a nicer bead than 6010 and 6011, 6013 is what is reffered to as a contact rod, which means it stays in contact with the base metal will welding
Reply:does your welder have ac and dc?
Reply:Beacause if your using 6010 you should be using that rod with dc which has a different feel than ac
Reply:I would like to see the start and endings if you dont mind?That weld sure is shinny what is that rod? Can I use that in a old stick welder?I dont know about you but I think seeing some nice stick welds would helpwhat do you think?A guy could have somthing to compare to.RonOriginally Posted by migmandoes your welder have ac and dc?
Reply:check back in a few days and i will post a pic of a smaw bead for you, i have to get back my camera from my buddy, but i will be glad to post a pic if it will help.
Reply:Migman,It'd be much appreciated.Thanks!ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:I guess I should picked a cool namewill the rod you are using work in a AC 225 220 volt stick welder???Thank YouLookin GoodRon Hicks
Reply:if you are referring to a 7018 then yes it will work with ac welders
Reply:you can also use 7014, 6013, and 6011 electrodes on ac
Reply:Thanks looks nice and bright would make pretty welds. Is it hard to use compared to 6013?Thank youRon
Reply:Maybe someone here can help out and describe the differences between 7018 and 6013.  I havent used 6013 yet.So, bumped the power to 85A and layed down a bead...Any other ideas/suggestions/recommendations?  A bit wavy I know, but is the amperage good?  These are 0.20" thick plates BTW.ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:You know im just learning with an old stick weldermaybe you are to fast and need to keep a 3/8 puddlebehind the rod maybe???? Dont you want round ripples ridges not V shaped??I may not know so dont take it for gospel.Ron Hicks
Reply:RH-I havent the foggiest, and am such a noob to welding that I dont even know what you're talking about.  3/8"?  I'd be blasting holes to keep a 3/8" puddle of red.  I am getting some discoloration on the other side of the plate though...is that a sign of complete fusion?ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:If that's 3/32" rod on .20" thickness crank it up. 100 and move faster. ...You could easily go 120 with that rod. Find your limits.
Reply:Im just tring to help - I think the molten puddle  should start to solidifie (the ridge) about 3 /8 in. behind the rod - thats twice the size of the 3/32 rod might need to be a hair bigger.The ridges in the pic look kind of pointed- I thnk they need to be rounded.With 1/8 in. rod on 3/16 thick mild steel I started at 125 amps.
Reply:sorry about that screwed up the 3/8 puddle was with the 1/8 rod I was usingI assume with 3/32 like 5/16 behind rod???I had better just keep quiet till ive done more weldingSounds like you have a nice welderRon
Reply:Some of you guys seem to be confused as to what the numbers on the electrode mean. I was going to type this out until I found a page with a good explenation.Again this is not my work, just a copy paste....The Meaning of the Electrode Numbers:     *      If there is an “E” in front of the electrode numbers, it simply means “electrode for arc welding.”    *      The first two numbers (i.e. 60 in 6010) represent 60,000 pounds of tensile strength per square inch.    *      The third number (i.e. 1 in 6010) represent position, 6010 is an ALL POSITION rod.    *      The third and fourth numbers (i.e. 10 in 6010) represent the flux coating. Stabilizers in the flux is what maintains the arc current. The last number on the electrode (i.e. 8 in 7018) allows the weldor to know what type of electrical current the electrode utilizes, such as AC, DC+, and/or DC-.  See chart next page.DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE ELECTRODE CURRENT CHART The following chart will tell the weldor what type of electricity each electrode requires.  The last number of the electrode (i.e. 8 in 7018) is what we are looking at.  The 7018 electrode, for example, means that the electrode is a DC+ electrode.  What this means is that the electrode can weld with the welder leads connected to either the Alternating Current (AC) connection points, or Direct Current (DC) connections point. When connecting the electrode leads AC, it doesn’t matter which lead goes to which connection point.  When connecting to the leads to DC it is very important which lead goes to which connector.  The connection points are labeled + (positive) and – (negative).  If the lead which has the electrode holder on it is connected to the + (positive) connection point on the welder, then you will be welding Electrode Positive, which is called Reverse Polarity ( DC+ = Reverse Polarity).  If the electrode holder lead is connected to the – (negative) connection point on the welder, you will be welding Electrode Negative, which is called Straight Polarity ( DC- = Straight Polarity). The “E” on the chart means Either RP (Reverse Polarity) or SP (Straight Polarity).0 – DC+ only – Reverse Polarity1 – AC or DC+ (Reverse Polarity – the electrode holder lead connects to the DC + terminal)2 – AC or DC- (Straight Polarity - the electrode holder lead connects to the DC - terminal)3 – AC or DC+ or DC- the electrode holder lead can connects to the DC + or – terminal)4 – AC or DC+ or DC- the electrode holder lead can connects to the DC + or – terminal)5 - 0 – DC+ only – Reverse Polarity6 – AC or DC+ (Reverse Polarity – the electrode holder lead connects to the DC + terminal)7 - AC or DC+ (Reverse Polarity – the electrode holder lead connects to the DC + terminal) Use this chart for quicker reference:Electrode Current Chart   (note:  there is not a 7)0        DC               RP1        AC/DC         RP2        AC/DC         SP3        AC/DC         E (Either RP or SP)4        AC/DC         E (Either RP or SP)5        DC               RP6        AC/DC         RP8        AC/DC         RPNOTE:  All electrodes can utilize a welder set up DC+ except electrodes ending with a 2.  Therefore, if a welder can remember that all electrodes can be DC+ except those ending in “2,” there isn’t much more to remember.Another point to remember is that electrodes ending in 0 or 5 cannot use AC power, the whole chart is almost memorized.Patriot Performance AutoLincoln Power Mig 255CLincoln AC-225 StickVictor Journeyman O/AQuincy QT-5 Compressor
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyIf that's 3/32" rod on .20" thickness crank it up. 100 and move faster. ...You could easily go 120 with that rod. Find your limits.
Reply:you are still moving a little bit to fast that is why you beads are elongated and thin at places think of moving the electrode at the pace of your heart beat. and the chart that patriot performance posted is correct and a very good guideline. you want your bead to be as thick and wide as both peices of metal you welding.
Reply:This being an inverter doesnt it need to run at a slightly lower amperage anyhow? Isnt it like 10% less (on average)? Got a really nice liquid bead at 95A though...
Reply:I'm gonna have to run some 7018 tests over the weekend...Just for laffs.. Buwahahaaaahaaaa!!   ...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I think your bead looks cold...... The freeze lines (ripples) basically indicate travel speed you want them to be arch shaped and not V. The V is a sign of running too fast. They say the bead shouldn't exceed 1 and a half times the rod diameter..... If you are running flat stringers (padding) when your parameters and travel speed are "in the zone" the slag cover will lift from the bead.... if it doesn't it shouldn't take much more than a pencil to remove it. I you turned it up and it was spitting and spattering then go back down. I don't think you're too far off with the pic you first posted turn it up a little bit. For flat I run about a 5-10 deg angle in a drag motion, I don't drag the rod I keep a tight arc with a little side to side motion. I'll try to run some beads tomorrow and see if I can post them.... A guide to setting the amps is to take the decimal of the fraction and use that as a round about number ie,1/16 = .06250 = 60A3/32 = .09375 = 90A1/8  = .12500 = 125A5/32 = .15625 = 160AThis just gets you in the ball park and you can adjust from there.Last edited by lorenzo; 01-31-2007 at 11:01 PM._________________Chris
Reply:Seriously, thanks to all for helping me figure out what I'm looking for!  Its kinda tough when youre "winging it".Ive got some great tips, nd have learned quite a fantastic amount of beta just from this little post.Lorenzo- All of these beads have been giving me slag that essentially just drops off.  Not even using the hammer to tidy up with this rod.  Thanks for the tip on the diametre and amps.  Helps me figure where I need to be esp since Im finding my digital calipers to be indispensible.  Makes even more sense because Im finding 90-95A to be alot smoother.  Will try to post another tomorrow.Will try to slow down my drag at 95A and see where it takes me.  BTW are you guys doing any "swirling" motions, or just pure/straight drags?ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:i move the electrode in, a circular motion, but therer are others, figure eight, semi, circle, and sort of a triangular motion, but i use circular motion.
Reply:I would think it will work at 95a just slow down it took me a while to do it myself-Uh I wasnt to far off what the pros say
Reply:So, just how the dickens does one "finish" up a bead to where its tidy?  I know they're not straight, but the "shell" is sluffing off on its own now.  Is that good?Top is at 85A, second is at 90A, and the last 5 are at 88A (go ahead and give me hell for the false start).  Every time I go about 95A I get spatter...any other ideas?  Still look like Im going too fast?  Oh yeah, the plate was at a 45 degree angle if that makes any difference for you.Last edited by DirtyLittleSecret; 02-04-2007 at 11:59 PM.ThermalArc 185MillerMatic 180 w/ AutosetVictor Cutskill Oxy/AcetyleneThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 38and spite!
Reply:At the end of the weld (learned this in class), you back up to the center of the crater and count one two three then break the arc.  Looks like you were doing that allready.  Dont weave anything yet (I was doing this too).  Its not really necessary on a flat horizontal unless you need to make the bead bigger.  The weaves are for outof position welding and filling gaps (learned this too).Various GrindersVictor Journeyman torch200cf Acet. 250cf oxygenLincoln 175 plus/alpha2 gunLincoln v205t tigLincoln 350mpEsab 650 plasmaWhen you can get up in the morning, Its a good day.Live each day like its your last.
Reply:Originally Posted by zapsterI'm gonna have to run some 7018 tests over the weekend...Just for laffs.. Buwahahaaaahaaaa!!   ...zap!