Rigging out at 94 3500HD Chevy.

admin

I figured this would make for a good project on this board. I have had this truck for 2 years now, it is a 94 Chevy 3500HD. I did post a couple of videos on another thread as I am sure some of you have seen. *******Today I got the truck pulled out of the shop where it has been sitting since December dead and lifeless. I got the truck running a few days ago, and those of you who have dealt with the 6.5 wont be surprised by this, it needs an injection pump. I did the Autocad a few days ago and created a set of prints and a 3d rendering for what the bed will look like with a Lincoln Vantage 300 mounted on it. As well I did a full 3D rendering of the frame of the bed.It is all 2x2 and 2x4 .120 wall box tubing. I stayed up until about 4am last night working on it, got a lot done by 5:00pm today.I have most of it welded out, just need to flip it now and weld the bottom.Finally had to give it a test fit and see what it was going to look like on the truck.Over all I am very pleased with how it has turned out. Hopefully friday I will be getting the rest of the steel to skin it. The deck is going to be 3/16" plate, the rear will be 1/4" and the sides will be 1/8" As well be the tool boxes. It should be a good stout bed, yet the weight is not terrible, the frame as it sits now I was able to lift up and set on the truck by myself with out too much trouble at all. I estimate it weighs 200-250 lbs.
Reply:Looks like your off to a great start. Keep us updated as you make progress!-1948 Short Hood SA-200-Millermatic 251-Hypertherm PM45-Victor Torches/Regs
Reply:Awesome.
Reply:Got more done tonight.cut some 6x1/4" flat bar, ran a piece of 3" x.250 box tube between it to form the trailer hitch. Drilled the holes so they would hit stock holes in the frame. The nice thing is that I am going to get through making this bed with out having to drill any holes in the frame at all, that makes me happy.I am going to use a 2 1/2" receiver, so I can run a class 10 hitch. I can simply run an adapter if I want to run something smaller, but when it comes to towing, I will have a very robust setup able to pull a large equipment trailer with a backhoe or something of that nature on it. The back of the bed is going to be made out of 12x1/4" flat, which will tie into the hitch and the mounts, thus making it very strong. It will also have a set of "D" rings on the back that tie directly into the truck frame. Should be a really stout setup.Tomorrow will be a busy day, don't know if I will get to touch it again until Friday. The next step is to cut the material for the trailer hitch, and design the plates that will go from it to the frame keeping everything tied in and optimizing strength.
Reply:subscribed... very interested to see it finishedAdam MMorales Ranch
Reply:sub'd Looks very coolIts a Datsun 1200 coupe.
Reply:The bed looks great.  I look forward to seeing the work progress.Is that the mechanical pump?  I know the electric injection pump failure was usually caused by the module on the side of it, a $300 to $400 fix.
Reply:Originally Posted by tbone550The bed looks great.  I look forward to seeing the work progress.Is that the mechanical pump?  I know the electric injection pump failure was usually caused by the module on the side of it, a $300 to $400 fix.
Reply:Looks good so far.  I'm curious, since I'm putting bed on a '98 C3500HD, what did you do to level the bed?  did you just shim the frame you built in the rear?The overlapping frame rails are about 1/4" higher and wider in the front, near the cab, than they are in the rear.I wound up splitting the channel I used for my bed into 4 sections.  2 pieces are 48" long and run from the cab to the end of the overlap.  then I have 2 pieces 72" long that run the rest of the way down the frame.I have the welder and about 12" of deck on the front sections of frame rails.  then I have a flat deck and a big toolbox that will sit on the rear sections of the rails.What are you going to do for the rear wheel wells?  The tires on my truck throw a huge amount of road debris and water up on the the frame and deck.  Between water, rocks, sand, and road salt, the spray off the rear tires will strip the paint right off the underside of my deck and frame.  I've decided that just hanging mud flaps won't get the job done.  So I'm trying to figure out the best way of hanging some fenders that cover the entire top half of the wheels on both sides of the truck.  I've got some good suggestions posted in the thread I started on my truck build.   (Sorry to those who where following that thread.  The project got put on hold, but I'm back to it, so more pictures should be posted soon)Last, what are you doing with the fuel filler necks and gas caps?  I don't see those indicated in your CAD drawings anywhere.  Does your '94 have 2 fuel tanks, or just one?I'm a little jealous...your truck has a much nicer set of wheels on it than mine....Benson's Mobile Welding - Dayton, OH metro area - AWS Certified Welding Inspector
Reply:Originally Posted by A_DAB_will_doLooks good so far.  I'm curious, since I'm putting bed on a '98 C3500HD, what did you do to level the bed?  did you just shim the frame you built in the rear?The overlapping frame rails are about 1/4" higher and wider in the front, near the cab, than they are in the rear.I wound up splitting the channel I used for my bed into 4 sections.  2 pieces are 48" long and run from the cab to the end of the overlap.  then I have 2 pieces 72" long that run the rest of the way down the frame.I have the welder and about 12" of deck on the front sections of frame rails.  then I have a flat deck and a big toolbox that will sit on the rear sections of the rails.What are you going to do for the rear wheel wells?  The tires on my truck throw a huge amount of road debris and water up on the the frame and deck.  Between water, rocks, sand, and road salt, the spray off the rear tires will strip the paint right off the underside of my deck and frame.  I've decided that just hanging mud flaps won't get the job done.  So I'm trying to figure out the best way of hanging some fenders that cover the entire top half of the wheels on both sides of the truck.  I've got some good suggestions posted in the thread I started on my truck build.   (Sorry to those who where following that thread.  The project got put on hold, but I'm back to it, so more pictures should be posted soon)Last, what are you doing with the fuel filler necks and gas caps?  I don't see those indicated in your CAD drawings anywhere.  Does your '94 have 2 fuel tanks, or just one?I'm a little jealous...your truck has a much nicer set of wheels on it than mine....
Reply:Oh also think you could get me a pic of your fuel tank selector switch?
Reply:Looking good MrBeastI know this is probably a fluid work in progress, just thought I'd mention a few thoughts that the rough sketch brings up.With  the shown cylinder locations, will the welder be accessible for  routine maintenance checks? Also, fuel cylinder valve access will require a climb aboard the bed, every time. Possibly the cylinders could be located vertically just behind the cab?Maybe the "dead air" now stored below deck between the cab and axle could be utilized for storage, or for the base of vertical cylinders?Not sure what type of work you do, but a "tailboard" that's flat and clear across the bed can be very handy with long work.Oh and be sure lamp mounting is per DOT spec.Carry on!           Good LuckLast edited by denrep; 04-28-2011 at 11:28 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by denrepLooking good MrBeastI know this is probably a fluid work in progress, just thought I'd mention a few thoughts that the rough sketch brings up.With  the shown cylinder locations, will the welder be accessible for  routine maintenance checks? Also, fuel cylinder valve access will require a climb aboard the bed, every time. Possibly the cylinders could be located vertically just behind the cab?Maybe the "dead air" now stored below deck between the cab and axle could be utilized for storage, or for the base of vertical cylinders?Not sure what type of work you do, but a "tailboard" that's flat and clear across the bed can be very handy with long work.Oh and be sure lamp mounting is per DOT spec.Carry on!           Good Luck
Reply:Looking good... I can't imagine filling twin 36 gallon tanks, ouch.
Reply:Originally Posted by kustomizingkidLooking good... I can't imagine filling twin 36 gallon tanks, ouch.
Reply:So when's the Cummins going in her? Haha, you know you want to do it!
Reply:Originally Posted by HornsSo when's the Cummins going in her? Haha, you know you want to do it!
Reply:No tank switch in the truck.  The truck has some factory automatic system that pumps fuel from the rear tank to the front tank.  I have the system disabled at the moment as I've pulled the rear tank.  The whole sender in the rear tank was rusted away.  I'm going to re- install the rear tank because I think the fuel gauge is tied into having the whole system installed and working.  My fuel gauge was totally dead.  I replaced the front tank sender last weekend and now the gauge reads for about 1 minute, and then abruptly shuts off.  If I shut off the engine and restart, it works for 1 minute and shuts off again.  It's like the little circuit that controls the fuel system sees something isn't right, and is shutting down the fuel gauge circuit.  The truck runs normally, so it's just an annoyance for now. Originally Posted by MrBeastOh also think you could get me a pic of your fuel tank selector switch?
Reply:Originally Posted by MrBeastFrist of all don't be jealous of the wheels, they are stainless simulator pos'es that only look good in photos if taken from at least 15 feet away! lolI did shim the bed up, actually I shimmed the whole thing up 3/4 of an inch, the reason for doing so my truck has had all of the rivets cut out and the holes enlarged, and bolts put in their place. I wanted to get the bed frame clear of the bolt heads so it would not squeak going down the road. This bed will have a proper wheel well, so that will help with the mud and debris and everything, the other thing is I'm going to paint the underside of the bed with bed liner. The fuel fills are going to come up at the sides of the bed, I am going to build twin aluminum 36 gallon tanks and put the electric switch in to keep everything working right. Going to use some nice after market fuel level senders I found that are more accurate as well. When I run the fuel lines out of the tank I am going to use AN fittings and have a valve that will allow me to shut off the fuel manually if I need to disconnect the hose or drop the tank.
Reply:Getting a little more done.I decided to move the trailer hitch back 11 inches so as that it would give me a bit more clearance, and it would also allow for better weigh distribution. With over 1300 lbs being added behind the cab, having the trailer hitch in a neutral position over the rear axle would actually mean more of that load would be transferred to the front axle, this way the rear axle will pick up more of the load. I am in the process right now of welding the deck to the frame, when this is done I can cut the sides and start installing them. Once I am at this point it wont be long before it is on the truck and functional. Also ordered a new injection pump, and I took the drive shaft to the shop up the street to get a new carrier bearing, new u joints and to be balanced (figure after 400K miles might need it)Hopefully by the end of next week the truck will be running and driving! Now just to get the bed on and get it road legal.
Reply:Well it has been 20 days since I last checked in, so I figured it would be about time. Up until this week the progress I have been making wasnt very visible so no pictures, I got the truck running, got plates, got insurance, got to drive it a bunch, that was awesome. I also picked up all the lights for the bed and have almost everything I am going to need to get the job done. Before I could get much more done on the bed I needed to get the truck off to paint. But before I could do that I needed to fix a dent in the rocker. I have another HD that I am parting out, I decided to cut the rocker out of it.When it was all done and cleaned up I was pretty happy with it for a rush job.It has been blazing hot here, so that means it has been slow working on stuff. We are talking 90 degrees and 90 percent humidity, it sucks when it feels like you can feel the air, been drinking some times as much as 4 gallons of fluid a day and been sweating a lot of that out, which is why I am really looking forward to getting this truck rigged out because I can travel to an area less humid and not be burning up. I did get a bunch done on the bed today but I only have 1 pic. I have the bed sides tacked in place, and I am now working on getting the boxes fabbed up. I wanted a 5 gallon bucket to fit in the box on the back, and I am pretty happy with how it is turning out, I am going to have a ton of storage, and I havent even started on the upper portion of the boxes yet. I am hoping by friday to have the bed pretty well tacked togeather, and hoping that by monday it is ready to go to paint. I still need some things for it, but over all I am pretty pleased with the progress, I am still working on how I am going to do the latch assembly though, I am seriously considering using the door latches from the donor truck and the door handles, this way I can key the doors to match my tool boxes. We will see on that though, I need to play with it to come up with a proof of concept on the latches. I am going to go ahead and get the boxes finished out, then I will worry about the latch mechanisim.
Reply:Wow please keep the pics coming this is nice work!
Reply:Awesome thread - subscribed!"These instructions are at our present level ofknowledge. Legal requirements do not exist.Technical issues subject to change."_________________________________________Lincoln MIG PAK 180Lincoln AC-225
Reply:hi,when rear tank is removed,bridge fuel sender wires,fuel guage will work for front tank,learned this from another thread on ww.i have a 2002 2wd,build looks good
Reply:Looks great! Keep the pics coming.Mr. Beast-Been watching the progress on your rig- seems you posted elsewhere as well.  I run a 94 6.5 as well and wanted to send you a heads up- the Stanadyne rotory injection pumps are crap as you know, and youve got yourself covered with spare PMDs to rule out false pump failure diagnostics- all good.  Here's the thing- the PMDs are junk as well and overheat- I know, nothing new to you but........ there's only one after market remote mounted PMD worth buying.  Look up Heath Diesel in Ellensburg WA.  Those guy have been Chevy diesel maniacs forever and have done a ton of R & D on everything that's come out.  They tweaked the PMD with new resistors and provide a straightforward plug in harness that mounts the PMD to the skid plate on 1 tons and behind the bumper on 3/4 tons.  Here's the kicker- they warranty it for 7 years!!!!  Think they trust their stuff?  I do and have changed out the PMDs on both my 94s.  Believe it was about $450.00 with shipping and they have great phone support.  If I could afford a better rig I would but this fix gave me a lot more confidence taking my old 94 1ton cross country to build compressor stations and not get stuck paying for an injector pump I didnt need.  Best Regards.
Reply:Originally Posted by pipeftrMr. Beast-Been watching the progress on your rig- seems you posted elsewhere as well.  I run a 94 6.5 as well and wanted to send you a heads up- the Stanadyne rotory injection pumps are crap as you know, and youve got yourself covered with spare PMDs to rule out false pump failure diagnostics- all good.  Here's the thing- the PMDs are junk as well and overheat- I know, nothing new to you but........ there's only one after market remote mounted PMD worth buying.  Look up Heath Diesel in Ellensburg WA.  Those guy have been Chevy diesel maniacs forever and have done a ton of R & D on everything that's come out.  They tweaked the PMD with new resistors and provide a straightforward plug in harness that mounts the PMD to the skid plate on 1 tons and behind the bumper on 3/4 tons.  Here's the kicker- they warranty it for 7 years!!!!  Think they trust their stuff?  I do and have changed out the PMDs on both my 94s.  Believe it was about $450.00 with shipping and they have great phone support.  If I could afford a better rig I would but this fix gave me a lot more confidence taking my old 94 1ton cross country to build compressor stations and not get stuck paying for an injector pump I didnt need.  Best Regards.
Reply:Just a small update, most of the work I have got done in the last few days isnt very photogenic.But here are a couple of pics.I have the deeper part of the tool boxes tacked in place, they are huge, should be able to fit plenty in them. I am really happy with how they are turning out.Set the pipe in the corner to see how it is going to look, once I get it quartered and tacked in I think it is going to look awesome. I also got the back of the bed roughed in and ground, still have a bit more to do to get it perfect, but pretty happy how it looks right now. The 5 marker lights in the middle will be frenched in 1" so will the 3 4" lights on each side. I think it is going to look damned outstanding when it is finished. Waiting for it to cool down and going to go out and try to make some more progress tonight.
Reply:Small update:Got one of the frenched taillight housings tacked together. I am pretty happy with how it turned out, needs to be cleaned up some and welded out but I think when finished it is going to look really nice.
Reply:That will look nice.
Reply:Looks good.  Where'd you buy the LED taillights and what did they set you back?  I'm shopping for all the lights I'll need on my truck and looking for better pricing... Originally Posted by MrBeastSmall update:Got one of the frenched taillight housings tacked together. I am pretty happy with how it turned out, needs to be cleaned up some and welded out but I think when finished it is going to look really nice.
Reply:I bought the lights at a local truck shop here, they cost about 33.00 eachA 4 1/2" holesaw makes a perfect sized hole for them.
Reply:Well now for some pictures!Got the truck back from paint this morning, looks great!Before:After:I am very pleased.Once I had the truck back, I couldn't wait any more, hoisted up the bed on the a frame and set it on the back of the truck. I still have a lot to do, but I am a lot closer now, that makes me happy. I am taking a break because it is the hottest part of the day, going to dive back into it once things cool down.
Reply:I am a little pissed, I forgot to take the inch and a half out of the space between the back of the cab and the center of the axle, so now I have to pull the bed sides back off, move them an inch and a half back, then put em back on, luckily they were just tacked in place. Going to be a long night.
Reply:Pulled an all nighter tonight, still not done, should have some good progress pics for tomorrow.
Reply:Looking good!"These instructions are at our present level ofknowledge. Legal requirements do not exist.Technical issues subject to change."_________________________________________Lincoln MIG PAK 180Lincoln AC-225
Reply:Man is that going to be nice!
Reply:Got a lot done this weekend, going to try to get more knocked out tonight. Got the bed sides back on it and rebuilt the entire rear. I was really not happy with the fitup before, I think it looks stellar now. I don't think I could get the alignment on the wheel well any better.
Reply:Also I mocked up the tool box so I could get an idea how bit it was actually going to be. The answer is huge! I am pretty happy with how its turning out.72 Chevy Cummins Project94 3500HD Welding Rig build Sold NOV 2011
Reply:Originally Posted by MrBeastThe answer is huge! I am pretty happy with how its turning out.
Reply:Originally Posted by smaclennanGood answer!  That is looking good. I like how you rounded the back corners.
Reply:Great work, it's going to look awesome when completed. I've been watching this thread the last few days and noticed your in Corpus. Just got back this evening from 4 days in Port A, so I know what your talking about when it comes to the heat as you mentioned earlier. That humidity down there is tough to take for us flatlanders. Again, great job keep the pics coming.Sixshooter-1948 Short Hood SA-200-Millermatic 251-Hypertherm PM45-Victor Torches/Regs
Reply:Great work, it's going to look awesome when completed. I've been watching this thread the last few days and noticed your in Corpus. Just got back this evening from 4 days in Port A, so I know what your talking about when it comes to the heat as you mentioned earlier. That humidity down there is tough to take for us flatlanders. Again, great job keep the pics coming.Sixshooter-1948 Short Hood SA-200-Millermatic 251-Hypertherm PM45-Victor Torches/Regs
Reply:Originally Posted by SixshooterGreat work, it's going to look awesome when completed. I've been watching this thread the last few days and noticed your in Corpus. Just got back this evening from 4 days in Port A, so I know what your talking about when it comes to the heat as you mentioned earlier. That humidity down there is tough to take for us flatlanders. Again, great job keep the pics coming.Sixshooter
Reply:Well I sure appreciate that. I was just down there with the wife for a few days by the water, haven't been in that area for a few years. It's sure nice, definatley plan on coming back. Your pics are motivating me to take the time to completely finish my bed. I need to recess my rear lights like yours and do a few other minor things. I was lazy and didn't french them in like I originally planned, but yours look great. I really like how you used 5 center marker lights too, pretty unique look.-1948 Short Hood SA-200-Millermatic 251-Hypertherm PM45-Victor Torches/Regs
Reply:Originally Posted by SixshooterWell I sure appreciate that. I was just down there with the wife for a few days by the water, haven't been in that area for a few years. It's sure nice, definatley plan on coming back. Your pics are motivating me to take the time to completely finish my bed. I need to recess my rear lights like yours and do a few other minor things. I was lazy and didn't french them in like I originally planned, but yours look great. I really like how you used 5 center marker lights too, pretty unique look.
Reply:Got it back off the truck, back on stands getting ready to put the other side on. Going to be a late night tonight, I am fired up ready to go though, going to get as much as humanly possible done.72 Chevy Cummins Project94 3500HD Welding Rig build Sold NOV 2011
Reply:Got a bit further last night.I got the drivers side on, cut a whole bunch of parts, getting everything closer bit by bit. The passenger side box will be tacked together pretty quick and it will be on to the drivers side. Then I just have to get the seal lip and box tops made and the boxes will be done, then I need to put the front bed corners on, build a fuel filler neck, and at that point the bed will be ready to weld out. I am hoping to have it over to paint by the end of the day tomorrow.72 Chevy Cummins Project94 3500HD Welding Rig build Sold NOV 2011
Reply:Got more done tonight, going to see how close I can get to having it where I can just weld on it tomorrow. Got most of the rail for the box seal cut and installed.Also decided to throw a bunch of tools in the box to show just how big they are. I need to figure out some kind of organization system to take it further and use the most of the space, but that will come in time. I am getting pretty excited though, it is starting to really look like something.72 Chevy Cummins Project94 3500HD Welding Rig build Sold NOV 2011
Reply:Looking great. Keep em' coming.Sixshooter-1948 Short Hood SA-200-Millermatic 251-Hypertherm PM45-Victor Torches/Regs