Best Nozzle for Close Angle Merged Exhaust Tubing?

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I made it this far merging a smaller (~2 inch) exhaust pipe into a larger 3 inch pipe (stainless steel), but I could not complete the weld because my #12 nozzle was too big!   Is there a better nozzle size you experienced welders would recommend so I can finish the top of this merge section?And YES, I tried all different angles with the torch and protruding the tungsten out, it just won't fit .
Reply:The cup in the pict doesn't look like a #12. Looks closer to a #6 from here.  ( cups are measured in 1/16th of an inch, so a #8 is a 1/2" opening. A # 12 would be 3/4". ) They make smaller cups. I think I have a #4 for my 17 torch some where, and we used to have some tiny ones for the smaller 9 / 20 series torches at the tech school. I believe they also sell extra long cups so you can keep the torch body back farther as well. The other option would be a gas lens which will allow you better coverage. When I 1st took my tig class years ago the instructor had me keep extending the tungsten out from the gas lens until I started to see signs of porosity, just to show how far it's possible to stick out the tungsten if need be. I was out stupid far, say more than 1" and the tungsten still showed no sign of discoloring from air contamination. that was without adjusting the gas flow. If I'd cranked up the gas, I might have been able to get the tungsten out even farther with the increased flow, especially in a tight area where you could block off a bunch of the area to "flood" that section with gas to maintain shielding..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:The gas lens is the way to go ... with a long stick out.  You can also shroud the area with the metal tape as DSW suggests, and turn up your purge flow to fill the pocket with argon through the unwelded portion of the seam.Dynasty 300DXSmith He/Ar gas mixerMM350PHobart Handler 120Smith LW7, MW5, AW1A
Reply:You could also make a "dam" on both sides of the joint tubing, and preflow argon into the area under low pressure to fill it up, which would allow you to stick out the tungsten as far as needed...  That would best be done with a second argon tubing source, apart from the torch...
Reply:Wastegate recirculation into the downpipe?
Reply:Would one of the styles in this pic help?Dave J. Attached ImagesDave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:I also like the gas lens set up.  Very long stickout is possible.  Use them to weld into a corner so I can see the tipDave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Originally Posted by MinnesotaDaveWould one of the styles in this pic help?Dave J.
Reply:ive used both long cup like pictured above and a #10 gas lense with the tungsten out about 3/4" to get into spots like what u are doing and they both work.mike
Reply:You don't need anything special, just use a gas lens. I do tighter merges that at at work in stainless and I use a #8 cup on a small gas lens for my wp-20 torch. You can stick the tungsten out like over an inch when you're down in a merge like that.some poo picsLast edited by MikeGyver; 01-15-2013 at 01:06 AM.Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:Thanks for your input everyone .  I bought a #4 weldcraft gas lens + nozzle and it allows me to stick the tungsten just far in enough, so I'll try completing the weld in a few hours.  MikeGyver, your welds look GREAT!  Do you mind me asking what size Tungsten & Filler, & tube thickness you used in those pics?
Reply:Yup, I've pulled my tungsten out over an inch before with the gas lens getting into tight spots.
Reply:Originally Posted by TheMeatHead... MikeGyver, your welds look GREAT!  Do you mind me asking what size Tungsten & Filler, & tube thickness you used in those pics?
Reply:I tried everyone's suggestions:#4 cup with gas lens (weldcraft)different argon gas flow (tried 10cfh to ~25cfh)tungsten stick outAluminum tape blocking off both sides to trap the argonThe arc started fine, but as soon as I moved it towards the center, I got Sparks galore and porosity.  (yes I ground and prepped the surfaces very well and cleansed with acetone lint-free cloth)  Is this what happens when surrounding air enters the weld instead of 100% pure argon?  Does anyone know of a skinnier than #4 nozzle and gas lens that might work with my CKWorldWide FlexLoc (135) Tig Torch?  The only other option I can think of is to try the #8 nozzle that works with my large diameter gas lens.  This really sucks because it's so close to being done! Last edited by TheMeatHead; 01-30-2013 at 06:34 AM.
Reply:You need a BIGGER lens with more stick out.  Get yourself a #8 - 12 lens and hang the tungsten out far.  Wave the torch around to try and get argon in the area.  Tape off the backside if needed.Miller Diversion 180Hobart Handler 140 (Soon to be replaced with Miller 211?)Miller Spectrum 625 Extreme
Reply:Originally Posted by Jon KYou need a BIGGER lens with more stick out.
Reply:Great info in this thread, and nice looking welds!!!Sorry I can't help!.. But I just got through welding a stainless steel exhaust kit on my truck with a stick welder.. Talking about problems!.. Just not enough room with a stick welder when the truck isn't on a lift.So yesterday I ordered a new Hobart 190 with a Spool-Gun and I'll have to go back over the exhaust when I get it! This forum is great!!!!