Lincold Idealarc 250 - leads

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I have a Lincoln Idealarc 250 with no leads I got on a swap for storing some welding tanks for a couple of years for a neighbor that is moving to another city (his son lives near and will use them every once in a while while he goes to college close to us).I saw some pretty good leads with ground clamp and rod holder, 50 feet each for a reasonable cost locally. The leads are being sold by older son who inherited a 175 amp welder from is father. He sold the welder and now wants to sell the leads. I haven't heard what size they are, but he said they would be fine for my welder.My local welding supply store says for that length I should be using a number 1 cable. Is this OK?  I am going to use it in a new shop I have built and will be welding with in 20 feet of the welder and the welder has a 30 foot power cord. I will not be welding as the crow flies any more than 30 feet from the welder, so the 50 foot length will be more than enough.Any thoughts on used cables or the gauge for this welder? - they look solid, no cracks and all of the ends.
Reply:Here's a table:"USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Thanks Oldendum
Reply:You're welcome.  That was reproduced on the Lincoln web site, so it should be pretty good. You could go full-bore with #1 and do well with #2."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:If I read it correctly for a 250 amp at 60 percent duty cycle at 100 feet combined length on the Lincoln chart it says 1.The guy with the cables said they were 1/0. Any downside to going that big?
Reply:1/0 is heavy, but you could add a little smaller gauge whip on the end."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:How long? would my welding supply store have a connector? Just tape the joint or some heay duty heat shrink?
Reply:Weight, but you can add a light weight short extension to the ends if you buy the leads you are looking at.  Duty cycle is key.  I doubt you would push 30% as a hobby welder.  Could get by with #4 in all likelihood.  My machine is same as yours and has #1 leads, 25' each. Not a big deal on weight for me unless I'm near the end of their reach, then I'm supporting too much drag weight to be very precise.  I'm 71 and have spinal issues.  You may not have similar issues.  Am thinking about adding 25' lengths of #3 to give me more flexibility, reach and less weight to support.30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30"  vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:Yes, do what Oldendum said.  The 1/0 is great but will be heavier to use, but if the price is right (about $1.60 - $2.00+ per foot new) get it.  Then just get some Tweco 1MPC quick connects and about 10-12 feet of #1 or #2 for a short whip.
Reply:Oldendum, storeman and Pipeliner-The sale is for two 50 foot lengths with ends, stinger and good bronze(?) clamp for $75 dollars and a $30 ferry ride for me. So about $1.05 per foot including attachments and factoring in the ferry ride to get them....won't have to pay 9.5% Washington State Tax either compared to if I purchased locally. I think the welding supplier was closer to 3 bucks a foot, plus the cost of the stinger and clamp. There may be some disconnects at the welder end as well.I will go for it and make some whips at the ends.Good info and advise.Thanks all,JT
Reply:Originally Posted by JonnyTeeThere may be some disconnects at the welder end as well.I will go for it and make some whips at the ends.JT
Reply:At my age it is ALL about comfort and convenience.  30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30"  vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:Originally Posted by storemanAt my age it is ALL about comfort and convenience.
Reply:theres nothing wrong w/ a 30 ft power cord, the welder didn't come w/ a 30 ft power cord, someone added it.   I'd be more concerned you have ampule size wire leading to the welder, if you don't you may slowly ruin it.   That goes for the plugs, outlets breaker, etc
Reply:I like 50' 1/0 with 10 or 15' of #4. Plenty of load capacity and comfort at the end. Use the connectors Pipeliner posted. You'll love it.I payed 1.75 per foot for #2 the other day locally. You're getting a good deal as long as the insulation is intact.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:Thanks All,Great information again.Here is what I got for $75, I think more than I bargained for. Can't read the words on one cable and the other is Italian? branded, but no size, However they both look like 1 or 1/0. There were welder end transitions that went to another welder, kind of a short "whip", but on the welder side.  Got a 200 amp ground clamp, a Tweco A732 stinger and two male connectors that fit the female connectors on my welder. The cables are 60 feet and 70 feet long, so I am already set to burn rods as is. Will decide if I want lighter whips as suggested later. The ground clamp cable end was bare wired to the clamp and a bit frayed, so I cut that off and will buy and attach an "end cap" to connect positively to the ground clamp.  The cables have one 1/2 inch cut that goes into one of the outer twists, but I think some heat set and electrical tape will take care of that. There are a couple of electrical tape repairs that are on the longer cable about ten or fifteen feet from the end, but they are nicely patched, however, I may just cut that part off.Ready to weld old school.JT
Reply:You did very good for $75!  Those almost look like 2MPC Tweco connectors. Everything looks to be in good shape so go make some sparks!
Reply:Thanks Pipeliner.
Reply:Great find!30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30"  vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press
Reply:Save those straight pin connectors they fit Miller ,Forney and other buzz boxes . The ground is fine use a hose clamp thru the slot to hold on. Just get tweco or lenco ends to hook up and weld away.
Reply:On second look you need nothing ,should plug in and weld away. If the stinger is too heavy make a whip. Tractor supply has cable ,stinger and a lug, just attach and stick it in the heavy stinger.
Reply:Great buy... you've got lots there to work with. Personally I would switch out the rod holder for a twist grip style, but that's personal preference. I've got one like the one pictured on my Sears buzzbox and it works fine...it's just if a rod sticks it will pull out of the holder.250 amp Miller DialArc AC/DC StickF-225 amp Forney AC Stick230 amp Sears AC StickLincoln 180C MIGVictor Medalist 350 O/ACut 50 PlasmaLes
Reply:Pavinsteelman-Thanks, I did buy a hose clamp, it works great.
Reply:whtbaron-Thanks, I may try the twist grip style later if I get frustrated with what is there now.
Reply:I wouldn't shorten the one cable like you mentioned unless you buy the connectors right away to be able to add it back in! Sure as the Devil someone will ask you to weld something where you will need that 70 feet! You'll wish you didn't cut it unless you have already installed the necessary connectors to plug it back in!