MIG popping

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New to the forum and MIG welding. Clarke 130 welder w/ c25 gas and .023 solid wire. Welding 20g sheetmetal and have welder dialed in well. Occ. Welder will pop ridiculously, other times weld great. I've searched the forums, and have seen multiple responses. My question is if the thing welds great sometimes, what causes the popping intermittently? Thanks for your input/.responses....
Reply:My 1st thought is that you are holding the gun too far from the material when it starts to pop. Many times newer welders don't even realize they have changed the distance between the gun and the work.2nd issue I've found is that often inexpensive machines like that Clarke have very poor quality control when they are built since cost not quality is the big driving factor. This will some times cause erratic feeding even if you are doing everything correct. It's a real PITA to track down, since the problems are often intermittent and the newer welder really can't control all the variables to have a base line to work from.Last issue might be the fact you are slightly kinking the gun liner as you weld. I've seen several of these machines that will weld perfect as long as the gun is almost dead straight, but if you turn or twist as you weld, you put more resistance on the wire as it passes thru the liner and then the wire will "surge" as it piles up, the springs forward and releases the built up tension and starts the process all lover again.Hope this helps..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Make sure your work lead (ground) has a good connection.Dynasty 300DXSmith He/Ar gas mixerMM350PHobart Handler 120Smith LW7, MW5, AW1A
Reply:Originally Posted by 4sfedMake sure your work lead (ground) has a good connection.
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWForgot that one.
Reply:Ordered a steel liner for this thing today from HTP..I believe the original is all plastic..I have read also that it helps to have the tip level w/ the end of the nozzle. Should I grind the nozzle down to make this happen, or is it not that effective to have the two even? Thanks in advance.
Reply:Originally Posted by tonebone.I have read also that it helps to have the tip level w/ the end of the nozzle. Should I grind the nozzle down to make this happen, or is it not that effective to have the two even? Thanks in advance.
Reply:Originally Posted by copeNo, you do not need the tip and nozzle even.
Reply:+1 on the tip-to-work distance.  I just started MIG'ing, and was wondering why the hell it was popping like "popcorn" and not sounding like "bacon sizzling".  Then I remembered about this technique, and sure enough when I payed attention to what I was doing I found myself varying the tip-to-work distance vastly.  Once I maintained it constant, the popping went away and it was all pork-n-beans after that.
Reply:Occasionally my MM250x will burn back to the tip on striking an arc. I usually find my ground is weak or my contact tip is worn. Usually if I give it a few seconds to cool, the tip will let go of the wire and it will start feeding again. I have noticed a few popcorn starts lately, I'll have to pay more attention to my stick out.
Reply:Popcorn starts. Hmmmm! Is that anything like a Popcorn Fart as I get a lot of those while welding these days?
Reply:Originally Posted by AKmudI have noticed a few popcorn starts lately, I'll have to pay more attention to my stick out.
Reply:If the popping is caused by wire-stutter, perhaps the side of the wire spool is not turning evenly against the housing.  I had a similar problem, due to the label stuck to the spool side that cause the spool to hesitate when turning.  Every time the edge of the label would encounter a seam on the housing, it would interrupt the wire feed and cause stuttering/popping.
Reply:Originally Posted by DanAlan,Short circuit transfer, we want the tip flush or slightly extended past (1/8") the end of the nozzle..023 on thin ga sheet  we want a tight stick out (1/4") to help guarantee the chance of a positive arc start
Reply:Originally Posted by AKmudOccasionally my MM250x will burn back to the tip on striking an arc. I usually find my ground is weak or my contact tip is worn. Usually if I give it a few seconds to cool, the tip will let go of the wire and it will start feeding again. I have noticed a few popcorn starts lately, I'll have to pay more attention to my stick out.
Reply:ground nozzle down to have the tip even, tightened stick out and improved my ground wire connection to the ground clamp, realigned roller to fit to wire, and almost all popping went away..Found out my welder is a Clarke 140en, almost no repair parts available,tweeco consumables are available. Bought brand new, company bankrupt, Gotta hope it doesnt break or im screwed. Wish i knew this before i bought it. Steel liner i bought from HTP doesnt appear to fit my 140en. 130 en(that i thought i had) was made in Italy. My 140 en is from China. Dont appear to be too many parts available for the chinese stuff. Fingers crossed. Thanks again for everyones help/input.