Multi-Pass Welding (Video)

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Goodafternoon, everyone!Hope this video finds y'all well...Its just a little something that I put together on how to run three-bead fillet welds, and in the video I used 7018. Its a fairly basic concept once you get bead sequence, placement, and overlap down, which this video can hopefully help you with. Like I said, I used 1/8" 7018 on 3/8" plate to make the video, and I welded out two "T" joints... One completely with 7018 and the second with a 5P 6010 root for a little more added penetration. Although I stick welded in this video, its a concept you can use with many processes:But if you think its wayyyy too long, you dont have to watch it all. Or if you can do it better, feel free to. Otherwise, enjoy the video, and happy welding everyone Last edited by Lanse; 05-21-2013 at 02:13 PM.[Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:r u using a different lens now to film,   looks like a pretty good view there during the weldingTiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Thanks Southpaw!! It's a 12 gold, glad you like it [Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:Great job Lanse! And the gold lens rocks! For the most part they are all I use, and makes a tremendous differance in your video footage. Keep it up bud! I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:There is this one company that boasts they use 3 pass welding on their car rotisseries and I thought... mmmkay, why not just weld it right on the first pass and be done with it. So I guess there is something to it. NO idea what 7018 is. I wire feed weld on my Lincoln SP175 with the Lincoln wire that's available. Guess ignorance is bliss. LOL
Reply:Originally Posted by DeveThere is this one company that boasts they use 3 pass welding on their car rotisseries and I thought... mmmkay, why not just weld it right on the first pass and be done with it. So I guess there is something to it. NO idea what 7018 is. I wire feed weld on my Lincoln SP175 with the Lincoln wire that's available. Guess ignorance is bliss. LOL
Reply:Hello Lanse, you wanted to show multi-pass welding, I thought that you might enjoy some of these pictures of "multi-pass welding". This job consumed roughly 280 some pounds of 5/32" E7018 and took a number of 24 hour days to complete. Enjoy! I do appreciate your videos Lanse, you have drive and that is what it takes to become successful as a lad getting started.Best regards, Allan Attached Imagesaevald
Reply:Originally Posted by aevaldHello Lanse, you wanted to show multi-pass welding, I thought that you might enjoy some of these pictures of "multi-pass welding". This job consumed roughly 280 some pounds of 5/32" E7018 and took a number of 24 hour days to complete. Enjoy! I do appreciate your videos Lanse, you have drive and that is what it takes to become successful as a lad getting started.Best regards, Allan
Reply:What is that thing? Mining bore of some kind?Motorboating...in the Cleavage of the Tetons
Reply:Hello rideit, that is a 24" thick extrusion platen. It had some cracks that needed to be addressed. I can't really detail it much beyond that. Plenty of UT, Mag Partical, carbon arc work, die grinding, grinding, induction heating, and die penetrant. Best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:The puddle video is good, it shows what's actually going on.First off, you could run hotter.  Up around 125ish amps.  If you look at the video the metal is piling up rather fast, it's not leveling out.  In addition I don't see any undercut as the rod digs in (look at the sides of the puddle in the video, the metal is already cooling, and it's piling on top of the plate instead of filling the penetration that should have been caused by the arc).  You'd really like to see the rod digging a small trench, and the filler metal filling that trench.  You have a lot of plate there soaking up the heat.Remember........7018 is a fill-freeze rod.You'll find that you can fun faster at the higher amps too.Here's an example of the same type of weld made at higher amps.See how flat the bead is, and how smooth the tie in is?  Little more heat goes a long way.Now here is one of the things I DON'T like about the 3 pass weld.  The final bead has to cover a lot of ground to tie it into the bottom pass.  A wider weave.  Unless you're running pretty hot, and move from toe to toe rapidly, you'll lose wetting at the toes.  You're simply too long out of the toe area due to the wide weave.Bear in mind, the 3 pass is acceptable in most cases, it's just not "perfect" in my opinion.  I'd prefer a 4 pass weld in this type of situation.  2 on the bottom, 1 small intermediate, 1 small final.  You really focus the heat this way, and don't stretch the puddle out as much.  It's really a matter of preference.  It's subject to argument.One final thing.  I don't know how you weld.  The best way to see what's going on is to look at the puddle from the side, or slightly in back of the puddle.  Unless you've done a lot of welding it's hard to determine bead profile etc. when looking through the arc from behind the rod.  It's often done, but you really have to focus on the puddle.  Easier to do it from an offside position.  This is mainly for the guys starting out.  I don't see any uniformity issues on your beads.  And like I say, the only issues I see are heat issues.  Easy to remedy"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:A multipass fillet is also stonger than a weave. Atleast that's what they tell us in school....something about HAZ being smaller.
Reply:Originally Posted by jamesyarbroughA multipass fillet is also stonger than a weave. Atleast that's what they tell us in school....something about HAZ being smaller.
Reply:Hello Wookie Welding, where strength can be different is with regard to base metal compositions and it is a metallurgical result of the parent metals reaction to heat. If you are welding A36 material, a stringer or a weave will likely be very similar in strength as grain growth, carbon content, and other things will minimally affect the resulting weld deposit and parent metal. If you are speaking of some of the high-strength materials then there is a world of difference in the resulting reactions between weld and parent material. Grade A572, Orelloy 50 and 70, A514, and a number of other materials are very heat sensitive. The results from improper control of heat from welding can have a drastic effect on these materials. You might pass an X-ray or UT test regarding lack of fusion issues, trapped slag, and discontinuities like these, yet, when you go about bending or otherwise deforming these welds they will break long before they would have if they had been properly welded, in other words, correct preheat, inter-pass temps., correct post heats, limitation of weld deposit width and depth/thickness. Just my $.02's worth. Best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:Originally Posted by aevaldHello Wookie Welding, where strength can be different is with regard to base metal compositions and it is a metallurgical result of the parent metals reaction to heat. If you are welding A36 material, a stringer or a weave will likely be very similar in strength as grain growth, carbon content, and other things will minimally affect the resulting weld deposit and parent metal. If you are speaking of some of the high-strength materials then there is a world of difference in the resulting reactions between weld and parent material. Grade A572, Orelloy 50 and 70, A514, and a number of other materials are very heat sensitive. The results from improper control of heat from welding can have a drastic effect on these materials. You might pass an X-ray or UT test regarding lack of fusion issues, trapped slag, and discontinuities like these, yet, when you go about bending or otherwise deforming these welds they will break long before they would have if they had been properly welded, in other words, correct preheat, inter-pass temps., correct post heats, limitation of weld deposit width and depth/thickness. Just my $.02's worth. Best regards, Allan
Reply:I like how you move the camera when you are welding so you can follow the puddle. How are you doing that?Since I'm a n00b at stick welding, anyone got any good places to buy some 7018 to play with since I can't find any more beauty rod Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:lanse since you have gone to school your welding has improved by leaps and bounds good jobMiller Xmt 350Lincoln Ln-25Ahp 200xSmith Gas Mixer AR/HTig is my Kung FuThrowing down dimes and weaving aboutInstagram http://instagram.com/[email protected]
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleI like how you move the camera when you are welding so you can follow the puddle. How are you doing that? Since I'm a n00b at stick welding, anyone got any good places to buy some 7018 to play with since I can't find any more beauty rod
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleI like how you move the camera when you are welding so you can follow the puddle. How are you doing that?Since I'm a n00b at stick welding, anyone got any good places to buy some 7018 to play with since I can't find any more beauty rod
Reply:Originally Posted by LanseOh, and the camera, I could tell you... But then I'd have to kill you
Reply:Originally Posted by joshuabardwellLet's all not forget the possibility that he just has a helper who's never on camera. The best tricks are the simplest.
Reply:... and as long as we're on the topic, here's another interesting question: the camera has a welding lens in front of its camera lens, presumably, or all you'd see is the arc. But how does the camera operator protect him/herself from the arc while also seeing the camera's display, since the operator's hood will keep him/her from being able to see the camera's display? I never considered the logistics of recording a welding arc before.
Reply:Originally Posted by lansenaaaa, when i've got someone in the shop with me, they always end up on camera... Good guess tho
Reply:Easy, there is no camera operator But sometimes I do hand-cam shots... Usually I put on the helmet, and bring it down to the top of the camera, which blocks out the arc. Also, dark safety glasses and gloves to protect against the light. It gets it done [Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:Why bother with 3 pass welds? That's what 1/4" 7018 is for. Heh!Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250Nah don't need anything fancy, just something to practice on. Hey email me, I got something cool to share.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Originally Posted by LanseGoodafternoon, everyone!Hope this video finds y'all well...Its just a little something that I put together on how to run three-bead fillet welds, and in the video I used 7018. Its a fairly basic concept once you get bead sequence, placement, and overlap down, which this video can hopefully help you with. Like I said, I used 1/8" 7018 on 3/8" plate to make the video, and I welded out two "T" joints... One completely with 7018 and the second with a 5P 6010 root for a little more added penetration. Although I stick welded in this video, its a concept you can use with many processes:But if you think its wayyyy too long, you dont have to watch it all. Or if you can do it better, feel free to. Otherwise, enjoy the video, and happy welding everyone