chain roller tensioner

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hi all can any of you help me with this chain roller i need to make it adjustable and dont know if it is any good how it is now. it is for a  buggy road bike engine 400 cc is the chain on to much of a angle? Attached Images
Reply:Should be fine.They do stuff like this on mountain bikesPost up more pics of the project!
Reply:Originally Posted by brendon18hi all can any of you help me with this chain roller i need to make it adjustable and dont know if it is any good how it is now. it is for a  buggy road bike engine 400 cc is the chain on to much of a angle?
Reply:Originally Posted by roadkillbobbis it on the pull or push side of the engine? meaning is the straight away of the chain being pulled to drive the axle?
Reply:Originally Posted by manningLooks to me like the straight chain is doing the driving. Are smooth chain guides normally used to keep tension like this? Nearly all of my farm equipment uses idler sprockets unless the chain is moving slow.
Reply:Why can't you shorten the chain. Looks like the only thing in the way is THE CHAIN TENSIONER! I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:I'll second the idler sproket, but the tensioner should be mounted to the square stock you can see behind the chain there. and it should be spring loaded. that way it moves as the tension of the chain changes with RPM and suspension travel/shock load.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammerI'll second the idler sproket, but the tensioner should be mounted to the square stock you can see behind the chain there. and it should be spring loaded. that way it moves as the tension of the chain changes with RPM and suspension travel/shock load.
Reply:You don't have any moving suspension, right?Shorten the chain, that's way too long - you want it almost too tight and let the tensioner take care of the small slack - even the "slack side" of the chain will be under tension during engine braking, so a tensioner that can move very far may let the chain drop off the sprockets. Make a tensioner with a wheel/sprocket (depending on how long you want it to last) on a spring loaded lever. Mount it so it pushes at the chain at roughly 90 degrees angle (in effect, have the tensioner arm roughly parallel with the chain). You may also want to think about a simple "chain guide", basically a coulpe of metal plates (or whatever you have) om both sides of the chain where it rolls onto the sprocket, just far enough away from the chain so it doesn't rub normally. The idea is that if the chain will go off the sprocket it will start to do so where it rolls onto the sprocket. A metal plate on each side prevents the chain to go far enough sideways to drop off, and guides it back straight onto the sprocket. I haven't dropped a single chain since I got a bike with that type of chain guide (and without automatic tensioner), didn't have that kind of luck with other bikes and ordinary manual and automatic tensioners earlier. Old mopeds mostly, but a chain and sprocket is a chain and sprocket no matter if there's 50 or 500cc pulling on it.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeWhy can't you shorten the chain. Looks like the only thing in the way is THE CHAIN TENSIONER!
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammerI'll second the idler sproket, but the tensioner should be mounted to the square stock you can see behind the chain there. and it should be spring loaded. that way it moves as the tension of the chain changes with RPM and suspension travel/shock load.
Reply:Originally Posted by G-sonYou don't have any moving suspension, right?Shorten the chain, that's way too long - you want it almost too tight and let the tensioner take care of the small slack - even the "slack side" of the chain will be under tension during engine braking, so a tensioner that can move very far may let the chain drop off the sprockets. Make a tensioner with a wheel/sprocket (depending on how long you want it to last) on a spring loaded lever. Mount it so it pushes at the chain at roughly 90 degrees angle (in effect, have the tensioner arm roughly parallel with the chain). You may also want to think about a simple "chain guide", basically a coulpe of metal plates (or whatever you have) om both sides of the chain where it rolls onto the sprocket, just far enough away from the chain so it doesn't rub normally. The idea is that if the chain will go off the sprocket it will start to do so where it rolls onto the sprocket. A metal plate on each side prevents the chain to go far enough sideways to drop off, and guides it back straight onto the sprocket. I haven't dropped a single chain since I got a bike with that type of chain guide (and without automatic tensioner), didn't have that kind of luck with other bikes and ordinary manual and automatic tensioners earlier. Old mopeds mostly, but a chain and sprocket is a chain and sprocket no matter if there's 50 or 500cc pulling on it.
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammerI'll second the idler sproket, but the tensioner should be mounted to the square stock you can see behind the chain there. and it should be spring loaded. that way it moves as the tension of the chain changes with RPM and suspension travel/shock load.
Reply:If the axle moves up in relation to the output sprocket the chain will have a lot of slack and you won't have to worry about the case below the sprocket because the chain will ball up and wedge itself in between the sprocket until it breaks the shifter housing. Been studying it and I don't have a good solution.Millermatic 200Hobart Handler 120Victor O/A & Ramco BandsawLincoln 225 ACSnapOn AD HoodMiller XMT304/22AHypertherm Powermax 1650 G3Lincoln Idealarc DC600 w/Extreme 12 VSMiller Digital Elite "Joker"
Reply:Originally Posted by RaptorDunerIf the axle moves up in relation to the output sprocket the chain will have a lot of slack and you won't have to worry about the case below the sprocket because the chain will ball up and wedge itself in between the sprocket until it breaks the shifter housing. Been studying it and I don't have a good solution.
Reply:Looks like you have things about in the right location to get the chain to run around the shifter, just remember rolling around sprockets is where chain wear comes from, so he straighter around the idler (approx. 10 teeth or larger), the better. You need to change the roller to an idler sprocket with a ball bearing in the center of it. That roller won't last at the speed it would have to rotate, can't tell if it has a bearing. Then you will have to fabricate another frame member , parallel to the axle, that will run across under the idler sprocket and between the two frame members on either side of the idler sprocket, that the idler sprocket can be bolted to. Looks like you fabricated the rest of the framework for the new engine so that won't be so hard. Make it out of the same tube the rest of the frame is made out of because engine braking will put a lot of stress on it when you get of the gas because you realized you're going too damn fast.Looking at the gear ratio, the cart will operate at about half the speed of the cycle it came out of, probably a good thing, and that rear hub with only two bolts that match up to the sprocket, questionable.Last edited by alanh; 06-07-2013 at 10:48 PM.
Reply:Can that engine handle being tilted towards the rear (internal oil pickups and such)? I can't tell how much would have to be changed, but if the bottom end of the engine was moved a couple of inches forward while the top stays about where it is that should reduce or completely remove the need for that extra bend in the chain to go around parts of the engine block. If you can do that and have a more conventional "straight" chain, making a descent tensioner should be simpler. With a movable axle or engine that might be all the adjustment you need then.
Reply:I think a jackshaft would be the best option. If properly designed, you wouldn't need an idler as a chain guide and it would be able to take slack out of both chains.Last edited by RaptorDuner; 06-08-2013 at 08:38 AM.Millermatic 200Hobart Handler 120Victor O/A & Ramco BandsawLincoln 225 ACSnapOn AD HoodMiller XMT304/22AHypertherm Powermax 1650 G3Lincoln Idealarc DC600 w/Extreme 12 VSMiller Digital Elite "Joker"
Reply:I welded one on a guys rigid frame Harley about a year ago, and haven't heard from him, so I guess it's holding up fine. I looked on ebay for you and it looked exactly like the " Brutus Motorcycle Chain Tensioner" check it out, sorry I don't know how to post links.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Brutus Chain Tensioner ebay linkhere is what mike was talking aboutCentury 88amp 110v migCentury 100, 110migPowcon200smThermal Arc 140 migThermal Arc Fabricator 211i
Reply:Originally Posted by G-sonCan that engine handle being tilted towards the rear (internal oil pickups and such)? I can't tell how much would have to be changed, but if the bottom end of the engine was moved a couple of inches forward while the top stays about where it is that should reduce or completely remove the need for that extra bend in the chain to go around parts of the engine block. If you can do that and have a more conventional "straight" chain, making a descent tensioner should be simpler. With a movable axle or engine that might be all the adjustment you need then.
Reply:Originally Posted by alanhLooks like you have things about in the right location to get the chain to run around the shifter, just remember rolling around sprockets is where chain wear comes from, so he straighter around the idler (approx. 10 teeth or larger), the better. You need to change the roller to an idler sprocket with a ball bearing in the center of it. That roller won't last at the speed it would have to rotate, can't tell if it has a bearing. Then you will have to fabricate another frame member , parallel to the axle, that will run across under the idler sprocket and between the two frame members on either side of the idler sprocket, that the idler sprocket can be bolted to. Looks like you fabricated the rest of the framework for the new engine so that won't be so hard. Make it out of the same tube the rest of the frame is made out of because engine braking will put a lot of stress on it when you get of the gas because you realized you're going too damn fast.Looking at the gear ratio, the cart will operate at about half the speed of the cycle it came out of, probably a good thing, and that rear hub with only two bolts that match up to the sprocket, questionable.
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeI welded one on a guys rigid frame Harley about a year ago, and haven't heard from him, so I guess it's holding up fine. I looked on ebay for you and it looked exactly like the " Brutus Motorcycle Chain Tensioner" check it out, sorry I don't know how to post links.
Reply:Originally Posted by brendon18a spring loaded one would be use less have been told by a guy that designs and builds buggy's that the spring would have to be strong enough that it stretches the chain it selfedge designsgreat buggy plans one of his designs will be next
Reply:Originally Posted by roadkillbobbWrong!!!!!!!!!!! just look at any car with a cerpintine belt and the tensioner..its set up just how you want it on your chain, it holds tension and lets the chain/belt flex when needed so it doesnt snap or break..Originally Posted by brendon18a spring loaded one would be use less have been told by a guy that designs and builds buggy's that the spring would have to be strong enough that it stretches the chain it selfedge designsgreat buggy plans one of his designs will be next
Reply:On quads and karts a 'slack adjuster' would be better terminology than tensioner. You don't need a tensioner with chains, you just need to keep the slack from throwing a big loop with varying torque situations."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:mike, to post a link, just copy and paste.to copy highlight the link hit Ctrl-C to paste, just hit Ctrl-VThere are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chain-Tensio...0e22e6&vxp=mtrTesting, Testing, 1 2 3 Testing!I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Yo Thanks Thor!!!!! I really stink with computers, and swore I wouldn't be able to follow your directions. Thanks man I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:do any of you know where i can get a idler sprocket from it would need ti fit a 530 size chain and be about 14 tooth
Reply:Originally Posted by weldermikeYo Thanks Thor!!!!! I really stink with computers, and swore I wouldn't be able to follow your directions. Thanks man
Reply:Brendon,I'd talk to either a bike shop or motorcycle shop they should have a selection of sprockets.But were it me, I'd go with a used one if I could find it. the size of the sprocket doesn't really matter so long as it fits the chain and fits into the area that you need it to go.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:It will work just like you have it.  You are not using it in your suspension in any way. so it needs a rigid mount. In your app, if it was spring loaded, the slack would go to the top chain when you slowed down fast and then snap back to the bottom  when you gassed it. Be sure it is rigid because it will have all the power on the motor geared down running through that chain.  Mac
Reply:The pre belt driven Harleys used a half moon shaped piece of a neoprene type material on there primary chains, so even a set up like that would work.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys