How to build a cart axle

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Can anybody provide description, photo, or even exploded diagram of how to build an axle for a dolly or welding cart or something like that? The last time I did it, I bought some wheels with integral bushings and bearings from the hardware store, then put a piece of all-thread through, drilled the all-thread, and put washers and cotter pins in. But the cotter pin holes are not very precisely drilled, and the wheels kind of wobble. I thought, surely there's an easy and effective way to do this that I'm just not thinking of.My current leading idea is to use all-thread as the axle, and put washers and nylock nuts on.Everlast PA160-STH... and that's about it!
Reply:I don't like all thread for an axle. It is already slightly undersized compared to solid rod and the threads don't take much abuse until they are smashed a little making the problem worse. I've made axles using bolts with the head cut off and welded into a piece of pipe. I make sure the bushing/bearing is on the solid shank, install washer & nylock and saw off the threads sticking out.Millermatic 200Hobart Handler 120Victor O/A & Ramco BandsawLincoln 225 ACSnapOn AD HoodMiller XMT304/22AHypertherm Powermax 1650 G3Lincoln Idealarc DC600 w/Extreme 12 VSMiller Digital Elite "Joker"
Reply:Lots of bolts are long enough to get the wheel on a shank. Do you have to have a full solid axle?(Home)Miller Maxstar 152 (sold)MM211/spool gunLincoln AC 225C(Work)Dynasty 350Powcon 300STLincoln SP-175TWeldlodgic AWS150sWeldlodgic AWS300Custom Resistance seam weldersCambridge Vacuum EB weldersI smell something burning.
Reply:Wheels are sold with cartridged bearings preinstalled which only need a solid rod of the right size. Cut it to length and drill a hole for a cotter pin behind a flat washer/s. Weld the rod to the cart and slip the wheels on with a flat washer and pin it through the hole with a cotter pin. Attached ImagesCity of L.A. Structural; Manual & Semi-Automatic;"Surely there is a mine for silver, and a place where gold is refined. Iron is taken from the earth, and copper is smelted from ore."Job 28:1,2Lincoln, Miller, Victor & ISV BibleDanny
Reply:Originally Posted by tanglediverWheels are sold with cartridged bearings preinstalled which only need a solid rod of the right size.
Reply:Here's how i did mine http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=58517Welding/Fab Pics: www.UtahWeld.com
Reply:I use a 1/2" bolt with a piece of 1/2" black pipe welded to the frame.  I weld a nut to one end of the black pipe, bolt through the bearings of the wheel, tighten bolt to the nut that's welded to the end of the black pipe.  The wheels roll on the smooth portion of the bolt & if necessary, I can cut a small chunk of black pipe to use as a spacer.  Then just tighten snug.  Wheels roll on the bearings, not on the bolt. Attached ImagesLast edited by MarkBall2; 06-09-2013 at 10:20 AM.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:I used all thread on this light duty shop cart..3/4 in tubeing Attached Images
Reply:do you need a full axle for these carts? a small stub (tube) for each wheel using a 1/2" or 5/8" (or whatever dia fits the wheel) grade-5 shoulder bolt with some brass washers should suffice??
Reply:I will second using a solid rod, just have to get it all marked correctly.I will also add I have not done this with wheels but the same principal.  Using a bolt I rearranged the handle on my yard wagon so it would swivel.  Bolt head welded onto the "tounge"  (also a trailer, handle flips around) then drilled a hole for the bolt to go through the handle and put a nut on.  I also used a piece of black steel pipe as a spacer slightly shorter then the smooth part of the bolt so the nut can be fully tightened and still allow the handle to swivel.Same idea if you go this route.  You do not want to crush the bearings.Guess I don't have a picture of that one.
Reply:I use solid rod and tack a stop  washer onto the shaft (to prevent the wheel from moving to close to the cart) and drill a hole for a snap pin with a washer between the wheel and the pin. Don't have any wobble issues.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:I had this very same problema with some pulleys while putting together a DIY belt grinder. I talked to my industrial supplies store and they told me that besides the usual not fully threaded bolt... there are special bolts (adjustment bolts he called them) made with the non threaded side turned to the exact size needed. This totally solves the problem when working with bearings. Maybe you can source them locally.Mikel
Reply:My new old favorite!  5/8" coupler nut welded to frame (even 16ga tube!), 5/8" grade 8 bolt with shank as long as the wheel hub.  A real welding project!  Attached ImagesLast edited by Fabn4Fun; 06-11-2013 at 12:45 PM.
Reply:Now that is darn clever.Everlast PA160-STH... and that's about it!
Reply:#14, why not just thread rod all the way through and use locktite with nut on each side?
Reply:You should have a smooth bearing surface for your wheel, not threaded.  The threads will eventually wear down anyway, then you have wheel wobble.  Hard to lube also.
Reply:Use cold roll the size of your bearing id and get set screw collars the same sizeWe build a few hundred carts a year and that is what we useTractor supply has the collars also McMaster Carr
Reply:Originally Posted by welding_kid#14, why not just thread rod all the way through and use locktite with nut on each side?
Reply:I did the exact same thing when putting wheels under a 5500 watt generator last year Originally Posted by Fabn4FunMy new old favorite!  5/8" coupler nut welded to frame (even 16ga tube!), 5/8" grade 8 bolt with shank as long as the wheel hub.  A real welding project!
Reply:Originally Posted by Fabn4Fun1.  Why waste the extra threaded rod? 2.  Simple is elegant.  3.  Grade 8 bolts are TOUGH - 150,000 psi.  Threaded rod is probably only 36,000 psi AND with only 1/2" diam at the root!  0.19625 sq in vs 0.3066 sq in for full 5/8" diam.  That's about 1/6 the strength of a Grade 8 bolt ... maybe! 4.  I haven't parked my Tahoe on top of it yet to test the ultimate strength, but otherwise it seems pretty strong!