HELP NEEDED to FINISH the GENTLE GIANT project

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the "GENTLE GIANT ' sculpture am making is now in near completion///now comes the hardest part--painting and protecting it from rust..its an outdoor art installation so for months now am still researching for the best protective finish i can use to prevent this artwork from sudden rust...with this regards  i want to ask a favor here for some inputs..today i saw a new product in the the internet.. the NEVER RUST Super Hydrophobic Treatment by Nano and Rustoleum. does anybody here tested this product?...I just wanna know if this product is possible to use in metal on the outdoor installation...or is there any other product in the market that could possibly withstand high temperatures and rains--like the ones they used to protect steel bridges and any other metal structures..really need HELP on this one...any inputs will be greatly appreciated.thanks a lot. Mario Attached ImagesLast edited by ironheart_ram; 06-27-2013 at 10:50 AM.
Reply:Is that thing hollow on the inside or filled with cool stuff as well?Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Originally Posted by GambleIs that thing hollow on the inside or filled with cool stuff as well?
Reply:you're going to have to do a full submersion in order to get into all the little holes and crannies in that thing. especially since it's hollow.  otherwise you're just going to rust from the inside out.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:The never rust stuff is cool, but not very durable, and not perfectly clear. I second the suggestion for an automotive type clear coat. If you want a color and not clear, I suggest a Kynar based architectural paint. Very bright colors and super durability.
Reply:Good luck with that. I lived many years in the San Francisco Bay Area and "preserving" the Golden Gate bridge from the salt air of the Pacific is a never-ending task. Battling rust, they are always painting it, once "done" they start over at the other end - over and over and over again. Very maintenance intensive, but ... should you discover a secret formula to evade the ravages of time, be sure to post it here. I could sure use it!XMT304 (school)SP125+ (home)HF 4x6 BandsawGood judgement comes from experience and much of that comes from bad judgement.
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammeryou're going to have to do a full submersion in order to get into all the little holes and crannies in that thing. especially since it's hollow.  otherwise you're just going to rust from the inside out.
Reply:Entitle it the "Disappearing Man", double your price and let nature take its toll.Some sort of Phosphate coating may help a bit and is not too high tech.  Mario, you have a tough climate there considering heat, humidity and intense UV light."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:I know of  product that, if you coated this entirely with it, it will never rust, you could put it in the sea for 6 months and take it out and it would look exactly the same as it does now, but it is expensive and it is not completely transparent as it has a slight yellow tint to it, and getting 100% coverage on something like that would take no less than dipping which would be very impractical. I'm talking about a product used on boats mainly and it's primarily designed to seal porous or damaged fiberglass or wood hulls and works equally well on steel and aluminumthe product is called gluv-it and this stuff is just awesome... perhaps it could be sprayed well enough to be effective? but would take some testing to see if it works with the overall end look you are hoping for and again, it's very expensive, but I have never found anything close to it in it's function. automotive clear coat won't stick well enough and voids would cause lift which would then cause further delamination, cured clearcoat is somewhat brittle and eventually with bad adheision it will crack, flake and peel away over time so it would only prolong the inevitable rather than fully preventing it, but if you're only loking for a year or so then an enamel or urethane clearcoat may be good enough...last suggestion I would make would be this stuff: http://www.por15.com/GLISTEN-PC/productinfo/GPCGG/  and this is what I would ultimately recommend if the budget allows for it, you will get much better adhesion and longevity than a normal automotive clearcoat but it is even way more expensive than the gluv-it, although it is probably way more suited to the job here anyway and it's viscosity is way less than the gluv-it which is very thick, way to thick to even spray as is, so ultimately this glisten pc would probably be your best option if the budget allowsmiller 330a bp TIGmiller dynasty 200DX TIGmillermatic 185 MIGthermal dynamics cutmaster 101 plasma cuttersnap-on YA5550 plasma cutterhypertherm powermax 30 plasma cutterbaileigh CS225 cold sawetc....
Reply:E-coating is similar to powder coating, but instead of applying the coating as a dry powder electrostatically, it's applied in a liquid solution and electrically attracted to the part similar to how electroplating is done.  Afterwards, it gets baked just like powder coat.  E-coat gets into all the nooks and cranies.  PPG is a good resource to start with:http://www.ppg.com/coatings/electroc...s/default.aspxLast edited by dbotos; 06-27-2013 at 06:19 PM.
Reply:Like the previous poster, I'd recommend powder coating, or in his case an immersion powder coating, if you can find a facility near with a large enough oven. Again, probably an excellent idea to see if they would work a deal with you on the cost for an advertising blurb at the finished location.Lincoln PrecisionTig 275Miller 251Miller DialArc 250Bridgeport millHossfeld bender & diesLogan shaperJet 14 X 40 latheSouth Bend 9" 'C'Hypertherm 900Ellis 3000 band saw21"Royersford ExcelsiorTwo shops, still too many tools.
Reply:Side note:  It would be interesting to see a time lapse of you building one of your projects.The Lord has declared, "This is my work and my glory--to bring to pass the immortality and eternal life of man"  Moses 1:39Link: My name is John, and I am a member of The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints.-- ColdCreekWorks.com --
Reply:wow-...i fell asleep and when i  woke up i found so many inputs here that frankly lessen my worries a little bit now... all i need to do now is to try the most available resources we have here...well if i could i really wanted to try all these suggestions. but since i am here in the Philippines= the availability of some materials are difficult to produce here. but still i will try to do some queries in the internet of the products you guys suggested...so thank you so much for helping me here.. I really appreciate it...This is my biggest break so far and i don't want to ruin it so this is very important to me...AYALA LAND Corp. is one of the biggest Land Developer here . They are the ones who trusted me and gave me this commission work.this sculpture will be launch on August 2 along with 4 other mediums from 4 other well known artist here....I am  the newbie in the team ...being one in a 5 man team they hired to make 5 different kinds of public installation art is such a great really and a dream come true for every artist here..the 4 other artist are already known here for their works...one is even a candidate for being the national artist here in the Philippines..So i must really try hard not to disappoint  them..Its the first time they hired a beginner to do a big installation art for them made of recycled steel..maybe its because of the rust issue.. so I must really try hard so solve it..am sure more art will follow if I will succeed to solve this one....well the compensation for this work is not really that much cos its my first but for this one i wanted to try everything at all cost...even shipping from there if possible of any any product that will surely works..i guess at any cost i can afford...Again thanks to all  of you guys for trying to help me...i still have a month before the launching so i guess i can still do some research on each suggestions you gave me thank you very much...and hey- you are all invited on the big day,,, i feel excited and nervous as the big day closing in.... Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by Mick120Mario,You have many metal finishing companies close to you.You need to get busy contacting some of them, maybe using Ayala Land Corp as a sweetener, to get them involved....
Reply:Originally Posted by WyoRoyLike the previous poster, I'd recommend powder coating, or in his case an immersion powder coating, if you can find a facility near with a large enough oven. Again, probably an excellent idea to see if they would work a deal with you on the cost for an advertising blurb at the finished location.
Reply:Originally Posted by tackitI used this product on the underside of my Snapper's 48" mower deck about 4 or 5 years ago,  so far it hasn't shown any signs of rust coming through the deck.  The next blade change it's the deck is going to get another power brushing and another treatment of rustbullet.  http://www.rustbullet.com/?source=ad...FaxaMgodZX0Azw
Reply:Originally Posted by dbotosE-coating is similar to powder coating, but instead of applying the coating as a dry powder electrostatically, it's applied in a liquid solution and electrically attracted to the part similar to how electroplating is done.  Afterwards, it gets baked just like powder coat.  E-coat gets into all the nooks and cranies.  PPG is a good resource to start with:http://www.ppg.com/coatings/electroc...s/default.aspx
Reply:Originally Posted by BlauSchuhstupid idea... but why not spray the inside with closed cell foam? should provide a vapor barrier.. no?
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammerhow is it a stupid idea? is it practicle? probably not. but it's goign to get the best coverage inside all those little loovers and holes and angles. There is a reason they do it in the automotive industry.actually, I'd probably have it powder coated if it were me. or hot dipped galvi depending on the look he's going for.
Reply:Originally Posted by dbotosE-coating is similar to powder coating, but instead of applying the coating as a dry powder electrostatically, it's applied in a liquid solution and electrically attracted to the part similar to how electroplating is done.  Afterwards, it gets baked just like powder coat.  E-coat gets into all the nooks and cranies.  PPG is a good resource to start with:http://www.ppg.com/coatings/electroc...s/default.aspx