Opinions/Suggestions on my TIG bead attempts

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I only have galvanized plates roughly 3/32 in thickness, maybe slightly more. Filler rod used was 3/32 308L shielding was 100% argon. The machine is a 220amp snapon mig with a scratch start tig attachment. Flow regulator was set to 10 and Heat setting was set on the lowest heat of 1 (not sure on the actual amperage yet but I'll post that tomorrow). There is no foot control so I realize its a bit hard to get a consistent application of heat.
Reply:Originally Posted by BudsdubbinI only have galvanized plates roughly 3/32 in thickness, maybe slightly more. Filler rod used was 3/32 308L shielding was 100% argon. The machine is a 220amp snapon mig with a scratch start tig attachment. Flow regulator was set to 10 and Heat setting was set on the lowest heat of 1 (not sure on the actual amperage yet but I'll post that tomorrow). There is no foot control so I realize its a bit hard to get a consistent application of heat.
Reply:My mistake on the oversized pics I'm not used to this forum yet. The tungsten used is 2% thoriated 3/32. Also according to the manual a heat setting of 1 = 155amp output? Also minimum preferred thickness is 12 gauge so I think I'm definitely testing the limits. I guess I shouldn't take that setting very seriously because heat can be controlled by the hieght or length of the arc (correct?). I'll do as you said, practice and post pics. I've always enjoyed TIGing even though its like my 5th attempt(first time was with a foot pedal). I feel there may be a future career there I may actually enjoy as opposed to auto tech work.
Reply:Originally Posted by Budsdubbin I guess I shouldn't take that setting very seriously because heat can be controlled by the hieght or length of the arc (correct?).
Reply:Model SNAPon MIG220 with TIG attachment http://www.800abcweld.com/store/?crn...=1&action=showManual for TIG accessory http://www.800abcweld.com/pdf/tp2125a_owners_manual.pdf
Reply:Ok you were right about the amp settings... Wow that kind of defeats most of the purpose of a tig machine with  the amp settings listed in the manual. In that case I'd say 1/8" is the minimum I'd suggest working with. Probably need to step up to 3/32" filler possibly to help chill the puddle some. I'd almost be tempted to say go up to 3/16" stock with 155 amps as your minimum. Fixed amp ranges like that will make that machine very limited in some ways.I'll be straight up and honest. That machine will be a PITA to learn tig on. You'd have an easier time on an AC/DC buzz box with an infinite amp control like a Miller Tunderbolt, or Dialarc or Idealarc and a scratch start tig rig than that machine..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I must be missing something here. Those beads he posted don't look like they were done with 155 amps.
Reply:From glancing at the user's manual, I don't recall ever seeing it switch from CV to CC mode.  The manual said adjust the _voltage_ to setting 1, which is "approximately" 155 amps.To the best of my knowledge, TIG welding voltage is really a function of gas and gap size (once the arc is established).  Using pure argon, I see 12V ish (from memory, I don't really look at the meters anymore). But of course voltage and current aren't completely independant.  A machine can only put out a certain amount of Watts.  So if the voltage requirement goes up (larger gap) the machine might have to compensate by lowing the current.If that is the case, this machine will be very difficult to learn on.  Re-read DSW's suggestiong for excercise No. 2.  If the machine actually starts dropping current as the gap increases (in order to maintain voltage/the arc) the student will not get the right feedback.Bottom line, that user's manual gives me zero confidence in that machine's ability to TIG weld.  However, if you already know how to scratch start, and you already have the parts to make that machine a TIG, you could take the same equipment and move it to a stick welder and get the current control you need/want.Con Fuse!Miller Dynasty 350Millermatic 350P-Spoolmatic 30AMiller Multimatic 200Hypertherm PowerMax 1000G3Miller Maxstar 200DX
Reply:Well I got off of the phone with systematic and was told Tig settings are from 1/8 to 1/4 inch which is not what I intended to use it for. Basically exhaust work is what I will be using this machine for so thanks to snapon I baught a useless machine. MIG ranges from 50 to 270 amps, I really don't understand the purpose of even having the Tig attachment. How can you have a setting of 50 amps for MIG but not the same for tig? Guess ill have to try and use the MIG to weld my SS 02 bung and vband flanges. Really disappointed maybe I can pick up a stick in the mean time and follow your advice. Thanks for the help guys let ms know if you have any suggestions for future decently priced tigs/stick welders.The weld may look cool because of the way I started adding filler. From what I can remember I added filler either directly on top of the pool (sort of slipped it right under the tungsten) or even a little behind the arc.Last edited by Budsdubbin; 03-21-2013 at 03:48 PM.
Reply:why not pick up a small DC TIG rig?  They're not that expensive. 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC