Bandsaw Blade Weld break

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Got myself a H.F Bandsaw a few months ago, Hell, I love that thing,------except for the Blade life.After the supplied H.F.blade broke--at the weld, bought a replacement from H.F. 7 or 8 cuts,- that broke at the Weld.Went looking around and found the OLSON brand Blades at ACE Hardware, Bought a couple of those.Prior to fitting all the new blades, checked alignment, tracking, tightness, tension, --all I could think of. Everything seemed in order.  The "wheel marks" on either side of all the Blades seemed even and consistant and when intact, cut really square /straight.Olson blades broke at the Weld, both after between 9--12 cuts of 1/2" x 1" mild steel bar stock.Does anyone have any suggestions/Links to info., that might assist me  in figuring out what might be going on ??.Thanks folks.
Reply:get a morse from grainger, its lasted awhile for me.  Your probably have your feed rate too high too...
Reply:You guide wheel should not be pinching you blade,  sounds like this is what you are describing with "wheel marks...".  I have my blade made.  Try Home Depot, they will replace their blades if the break on the weld.  Also, what number of teeth per inch.  I should be low for solid bar stock.
Reply:Sounds to me like your tension on the blade is way to tight. Not only will this break the blades but it will also put unnecessary wear on the other parts of the tracking and guide system of the saw.Miller Thunderbolt 225Millermatic 130 XPLincoln HD 100 Forney C-5bt Arc welderPlasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40ACent Machinery Bandsaw Cent Machinery 16Speed Drill PressChicago Electric 130amp tig/90 ArcHobart 190 Mig spoolgun ready
Reply:Thanks , been using 14 TPI .  I'll recheck all you folks have suggested and try Home Depot for a blade or two.On the Tension : I've been setting it essentially, by increasing  tension until it stops slipping off the the wheels, then I tweak it a little tighter,---maybe an eighth of a turn on the handle.Maybe it is Tension, can never truly decide what is tight enough. For some reason I check the blade much like a Fan Belt on the car----Trouble is, don't know how much lateral movement is good or bad on the blade.
Reply:Originally Posted by STwelderSounds to me like your tension on the blade is way to tight. Not only will this break the blades but it will also put unnecessary wear on the other parts of the tracking and guide system of the saw.
Reply:I'll vote for not tight enough.  Blade buckling each rotation.  The weld is less tolerant of flexation than the rest of the blade. The other thing that might cause this is cutting very crooked for one of the several reasons blades cut crooked.
Reply:OK, dumb question maybe :  How is correct tension established ?.      Following the directions "in the book" from H.F. , "Just tight enough so the blade is not slipping off the wheels".------Checking the blade at this point,----between thumb and index finger in a sideways movement---------blade moves about 1/2 " both sides of center. I tighten further so that there is maybe 1/4" movement.All cuts made have been square,--right up to the point, where the now familiar sound,---of a broken blade is heard.
Reply:How is your metal supported?  Could some pinching be occurring, If the drop end is not level or falling downward?
Reply:tapwelder , Work is supported in the vise on the Bandsaw, the piece that "drops" rests flush and square on the support other side of the blade.  Haven't had to cut anything real short thats "hangs is space"---yet.
Reply:I guess what I am asking is could it be possible that the part is not actually level or weight distributed in such a way that the part fall towards the blade and pinches it.  Another thought.  Sometimes after the part is cut it is dragged toward the guide guard and also causes pinching.  It is especially noticeable when you use a material stop and the material gets cocked after the cuts.good luck
Reply:I just went through three of them myself on the same band saw after on lasting for dozens of cuts. I rewelded one and it lasted a bit then broke. If its any consolation it didn't break at the weld  about an inch near it though (HAZ).People have said Lenox makes a good blade. I've had great luck with their hole saws compared to other brands. Might give their band saw blades a shot.Miller Syncrowave 180SDMillermatic 175
Reply:Thanks for all the input floks.  Looks like I'll have to order on line, none of local stores have 64.5" Bi metal at the moment, oh well !Thanks again.
Reply:I have the same band saw, ( you can see it in the posts I've made ) where Ive cut 1 1/4 X 3/4 flat stock at 30 degree angles and also cut pipe at every angle the saw will allow me to use. And cut angle iron with it at 45* angles and from this position ( L ) to this ( A ) if you understand what I mean. With the original blade. Then I went to Home Depot and bought a Rigid blade because of the name brand not that the original broke or anything, and the same thing on cuts with no problems.Check your path ways and pulleys for alignment and compare hight of them from drive to idler and so on.Because I have had no problems and think there must be a misalignment some where. Like you said I love mine as well for the price and the ease of use you cant beat it. Hope this helps?Miller Thunderbolt 225Millermatic 130 XPLincoln HD 100 Forney C-5bt Arc welderPlasma Cutter Gianteach Cut40ACent Machinery Bandsaw Cent Machinery 16Speed Drill PressChicago Electric 130amp tig/90 ArcHobart 190 Mig spoolgun ready