My MIG welds

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I have a Miller Passport. Using CO2 and 0.030 Lincoln wire. 220v plug. Some are on 1/4" some on 1/8". Most of the fillet ones look really cold to me, but I was using recommended settings.  These are some of my first... Attached ImagesMiller Passport
Reply:Some more Attached ImagesMiller Passport
Reply:Some more Attached ImagesLast edited by wheelsup; 03-27-2013 at 05:59 PM.Miller Passport
Reply:More more more Attached ImagesMiller Passport
Reply:The welds don't look all that cold to me, but you can certainly turn up the voltage a bit if the machine still has the output available. Settings on the machine are usually a rough starting point, things like stick out and actual line voltage will change how the machine runs. 1/4" should be within the range of that machine, even if it is on the upper end.Your beads need work on consistency. It's hard to tell from your side view, but it looks like the 1st T joint could use a bit more fill on the reinforcement in a few places. General rule of thumb is to draw a line from the thickness of the base material out on each leg ( in this case 1/4") and connect the two with a 45 deg line. Reinforcement should slightly exceed this imaginary line. Your lap joints look like they were aimed slightly to high on the upper plate in some case. I usually like to concentrate the puddle on the lower plate and wash it up onto the upper one using a C type motion or circles. I watch the top edge and as soon as I see the edge melt away, I'm back down on the lower plate. The last lap in  post one and 1st 2 in post two ( all 3 the same weld) looks the best. It's probably the most consistent of all the ones shown. Not sure if you welded it flat, or horizontal as shown. The lower edge in the picts is just about what I'd be looking for, with a few small hiccups here and there mostly on the left side. The upper edge on the main plate could still use some work to even that edge out some more.The ripple pattern on your T joints could be a bit tighter, but on average it's not bad. Consistency needs work as there's a wide change in the pattern throughout the welds that needs to be addressed. For your 1st mig welds they aren't bad at all. I've seen a lot worse from new students. If you have a choice, I'd stick with the 1/8" over the 1/4" on that machine. 1/4" is doable, but the material will cost you more, and the thinner material will let you get the basics down just fine. If anything I'd save the 1/4" for later and do bevel but joints once your consistency is better. Working on getting that balance point between being cold enough not to blow thru the edge of the bevel, but still being hot enough to get full penetration on your root and hot enough to burn in good takes some practice..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Last batch Attached ImagesMiller Passport
Reply:You posted up the next sets of picts while I was typing my reply to the 1st sets. The T's look a bit better than the 1st batch. The 1/4" ones you definitely need to tighten up your pattern. Consistency issues still need work.Edit: you posted up more while I was working on this post. Last batch the pull welds are too tall and too big for 1/8". You need to adjust your weld style to deal with the extra material. Once you learn to read the puddle better this will be easier. I think you forgot to weld the 1/4" pull one...  The 1/8" lap joint doesn't look bad as far as consistency, but it's too tall. My guess since it's push is that you aimed slightly too high up on the upper plate, hence the extra material. You still need to tighten up your pattern.Last edited by DSW; 03-27-2013 at 06:10 PM..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:DSW I've read everything you've written. One issue I'm having trouble with is how far to hold the gun from the metal. Cold vs warm, was the temp of the metal when I made the weld...sorry should have written that on the first post. By "tighten up the pattern" does that mean just make the up and down motion tighter together?Miller Passport
Reply:Also what am I looking to do with the puddle? I can see it, and kinda pull it along.Miller Passport
Reply:1/4" to 3/8" is a pretty good distance to try to maintain with short circuit mig like you are running. With mig the closer you keep the gun the "hotter" the weld will be, the farther away, the "colder" the weld, everything else being equal. This can help you later if you have poor fit up on a piece and can read the puddle well. If the gap gets tighter, jam the gun in there and you'll up your heat so you can get better penetration. If the gap opens up, back off a bit and it will cool the weld down and make it easier to fill the gap and not blow giant holes in things. These are "advanced " techniques, but it helps show what you can use this for.Yes by "tighten up the pattern" I mean to make your motions smaller and faster. Right now lets say you make 4 circles in an inch of weld. The ripples will be roughly 1/4" apart and you will get those little V shaped "notches" at the toes of the weld where the material from the next motion doesn't fill in everything. Instead, do 8 or even 16 circles in the same distance. To keep the same approximate amount of fill, you have to make these motion faster to reduce the time you spend in one spot. Overall travel speed right to left remains roughly the same. Originally Posted by wheelsup Most of the fillet ones look really cold to me, but I was using recommended settings...
Reply:Originally Posted by wheelsupAlso what am I looking to do with the puddle? I can see it, and kinda pull it along.
Reply:DSW, thanks. I guess my question is, am I suppose to use the weld pool/puddle to join the two materials in it? IE use the pool to melt in both pieces so to speak? The slower I go the bigger the weld pool got, and it seemed like it looked really cold at that point and built up a lot of filler. I wish there was a way of slowing down the process, that is why I liked the 1/4" stuff, it seemed to make it go slower so I could have more time to focus.Miller Passport
Reply:DSW, As always, Great writeup in this thread!...To the OP.. Not that bad! Hobart Handler 190Hobart Spool-Gun 100Lincoln 225 ACMiller & Pipeliner HoodDewalt 14" Chopsaw, GrindersHarris O/AVictor TorchCustom Built O/A CartCustom Welding CartHeavy Duty 16 Speed Floor Drill PressPipe-BenderDrill Doctor
Reply:Not quite sure how to answer this in a way that will make sense to you. It would be easier to show than explain.Yes you use the puddle to join both pieces. Slow isn't always the right way to go, even if the majority of newer welders have issues going too fast. You want the bead to be roughly the size of the base material. With large wire and 1/8" that's often not easy. It shouldn't be too hard with .030 wire to keep the bead to between 1/8" and say 3/16" though. Much larger than that and chances are you are moving too slow. If you start to see V's in the ripples it shows you are going too fast. One thing I often see is guys whose motions are too large. If you want an 1/8" bead, your motion with the wire probably doesn't need to be much larger than say 1/16" to 3/32" depending on your personal style of motion. You get your penetration from having the right settings on the machine. Most door charts are reasonably close as starters. Try and run some narrower beads on the 1/8" material and post them up. Right now I'm not seeing major issues with you having cold welds. Post up the machine settings when you do the welds and I can always pull up Millers manual and get a feel how they look based on what they recommend..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I really like your write ups and critiques DSW.  Really good information.  I notice that when you talk about observing the puddle that you don't mention the "eye" of the puddle.  That is what I was taught to watch and I am curious why you don't mention it.  Is it not important?  Don't mean to hijack the thread and really respect your thoughts on these things.
Reply:I never really was taught that. Honestly I never really had anyone actually try and explain the puddle to me while I was learning. Just one day it all "clicked" to me and I suddenly understood so much more all at once. A down side of learning some of this the hard way vs truly learning from scratch in a "class" setting. Honestly most of my comments on the puddle is what I've personally observed.I'll have to look at the puddle and see if I can recognize what you are describing when we have class next week. I may be seeing it, and not really thinking about what I'm seeing. It's strange how that works some times. A friend I know once mentioned whenever he saw the "Batman" signal all he could see was a gaint mouth with teeth. I'd never actually seen it that way in all the years I watched those shows as a kid, but once he mentioned it it made perfect sense what he was seeing..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:[QUOTE=DSW;2449131]Explain red to me... "Ok, I want to try it, Helen Keller.Red is the color we use to describe the temperature of the coil on the stove when you turn it on HIGH. Red is the color we use to describe the feeling of love. We do it with red roses that are soft and velvety. Red is the color of fast sports cars like Corvettes and Ferraris. Red is a color that irritates our sense of sight and we use it to indicate that we should STOP motion.  Red is a color that describes a person's face when they are exerting themselves like lifting a heavy object and holding their breath. Red is the flashy color on a can of coca cola. Santa Claus wears a fuzzy read suit with white collars and cuffs that look like fluffy marshmallows. Red is the color of our face when we blush from being embarrassed publicly. Red is the opposite of Blue if we use it to describe water temperature. Blue is cool and refreshing. That is how I would relate red to someone lacking sight. It might give them a reference from which to draw from. What do you think?Lincoln Power Mig 210MP MIGLincoln Power Mig 350MP - MIG and Push-PullLincoln TIG 300-300Lincoln Hobby-Weld 110v  Thanks JLAMESCK TIG TORCH, gas diffuser, pyrex cupThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 101My brain
Reply:Well I never had any real formal schooling on welding.  A guy that worked for my dad showed me the eye and later in life he was my ag teacher in High School.  You will see it, it is always on the opposite side of where you are concentrating, the little black spot that floats in the puddle.  I know what you mean on the batman thing........ bought a new truck last year and it had "diamond cut" wheels.  I thought it was referring to the machining method but then I saw the diamonds after several days.  Now I can't look at them without seeing them.
Reply:OK here is 1/8" material on the 1/8" setting. 4.5 V 50 wire speed.I tried to make smaller, but tighter, faster circles.This is all the same weld, 3 pictures of it, my camera isn't very good at least 7 years old. Attached ImagesLast edited by wheelsup; 03-28-2013 at 05:50 PM.Miller Passport
Reply:Ok here is 1/8" material, on the 3/16" setting. IIRC 65V and 55 wire feed. Attached ImagesLast edited by wheelsup; 03-28-2013 at 06:01 PM.Miller Passport
Reply:This is 1/4" material, at the 1/4" setting. Right around 85V and 8.5 wire, actually more like 88V and 88 wire after I looked at it.If you look at the top portion about halfway down, you can see the shadowing, it appears to "bulge" out, isn't this an indication of a cold weld? Attached ImagesMiller Passport
Reply:Looking better. The start had some issues, but the last 1/2 looks pretty good at your level. You have a nice tight pattern now and your toes look decent. You still need a bit of work on getting your travel speed a bit more consistent, since I can see the material piled up a bit in a few places, but that comes with practice.The area I circled looks particularly good. Try and remember what you did there and try and make the rest look like this if possible..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Sorry you posted up some more picts when I left the room to answer the phone while replying earlier.No what I think you are seeing is more a change in your travel speed than a cold weld. I'll see if I can't dig up some picts that show this for you.Your 3/16" welds need work on consistency.Your 1/4" welds look better. One thing I do notice is that you aren't getting as much weld on one face as you are on the 2nd face. The red line shows where you didn't come out far enough on the lower piece. You have more weld on the vertical face than you do on the bottom one. They should be equal. The top edge of that weld ( blue line) does look nice and consistent and you have tightened up your pattern nicely..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Here's a pict of some cold welds. In the 1st pict of welds on flat plate I still had on the computer from someone here, note how tall and ropey these welds look.  The circle was to show some one else something..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I'd just like to say thanks to the OP and to DSW. As a beginning welder, this thread is very helpful to me. Excellent information.He > meD, I've found that if I turn the wire speed down a bit below the settings I can move the gun a bit slower.  I never really thought about watching the puddle, til I read about FarmerSamm having a kinipshin about it one day.  Thought it over & started looking for the puddle.  Once I knew what to watch for, gluing metal became so much easier.I still travel too fast time to time, but then again, I'm not a true welder, just a nurse that can do a few other things.  I also find the thicker metal is easier to learn on, then decrease the size, adjust the welder to make the best weld you can.  I can do 1/8" with my HH175 tap setting on 2 or 3 & wire speed adjusted to make the weld.I've welded as light as 22 gauge using the # 2 tap.  Not a continuous bead mind you, but glued it together quite well.Wheels, DSW is one of the better teachers on the board.  He will get you to do the basics, from there you can get fancy for that "stack of dimes" look the "experts" Zap & ZTFab show off.MarkI haven't always been a nurse........Craftsman 12"x36" LatheEnco G-30B MillHobart Handler 175Lincoln WeldandPower 225 AC/DC G-7 CV/CCAdd a Foot Pedal to a Harbor Freight Chicago Electric 165A DC TIG PapaLion's Gate Build
Reply:Mark I also tend to weld a bit slower than many do, thus I'll often use slightly lower settings. However I think with people who haven't yet learned all the "tricks" and what to look for in the puddle, more heat is usually their friend. If anything I'd rather see someone with settings that were too hot vs settings that are too cold.Thanks by the way for the compliments guys..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Ok here is one I did today. I changed my technique, instead of moving the torch with both hands I kept my left hand steady and used my right hand to move it up and down and left to right (I didn't make circles, just an up and down motion).This is 1/8" material on the 1/8" setting of 45 V and 50 wire speed. The weld I did today is below the little "nugget" on the left hand side, it's the bottom fillet joint.I can see how the spark cuts into the metal and then the pool kinda flows over it. Attached ImagesMiller Passport
Reply:The picts I think are some what deceiving and quite dark. The 2nd to last pict is the only one that shows much, but the bead itself looks strange for some reason. I'm not sure if it's the pict or what.The majority of that bead looks much more consistent at the top and bottom toes. There's really only a few spots on the right side that spoil it. I'm not sure why the ripples look odd in that pict though. Are you pushing or pulling that weld? The reason I'm asking is I'm wondering if for some reason you were actually dragging the nozzle in the weld. I've seen some students do this if they hold a very tight stick out, and have the gun tilted down a bit to far at an angle while pushing. Anyways I can see you are improving each time you do these and that's really what is important..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Man here I was thinking that weld was awesome! I was so proud of it, I even wire brushed it clean!! IIRC I think I pulled it. I don't think I dragged anything through it.Miller Passport
Reply:Originally Posted by wheelsupOk here is one I did today. I changed my technique, instead of moving the torch with both hands I kept my left hand steady and used my right hand to move it up and down and left to right (I didn't make circles, just an up and down motion).I can see how the spark cuts into the metal and then the pool kinda flows over it.
Reply:Are the voltage settings that the OP stated for the last welds correct?4.5, 55, 65 and 88 Volts?    My XMT doesn't even go into that range on CV mode.  10-35 volts is all I got.Last edited by Drf255; 03-30-2013 at 04:45 AM.TA Arcmaster 300CM3XMT 304S22P12 suitcase feederX-Treme 12VSOptima pulserTA161SMaxstar 150STLHypertherm PM45OP setupStihl 020AVP, 039, 066 Magnum
Reply:He's using a Passport. Like most small machines voltage is just listed by a setting number IIRC, so 4.5 isn't an actual voltage, but an arbitrary number on the dial. 55, 65, 88 all are simply missing the decimal points.  Having looked up the settings for his machine earlier, I understood what he was typing. I meant to say something earlier about how he was listing the settings, but I forgot. Originally Posted by DSWThe majority of that bead looks much more consistent at the top and bottom toes. There's really only a few spots on the right side that spoil it. I'm not sure why the ripples look odd in that pict though. Are you pushing or pulling that weld? .... Anyways I can see you are improving each time you do these and that's really what is important.
Reply:OK just wanted to say I'm not gone...I've been working and now even on vacation picking up some OT to help pay for my "hobby"...will be back at it late in the week. I might pick up one of those portable bandsaws to cut into this stuff, so we can look inside. I've looked for some local tech places to do welding courses but they only run degree programs, nothing for just a few weeks. DSW where are you in Philly I can hop on a flight and come take some lessons .Last edited by wheelsup; 04-02-2013 at 10:37 PM.Miller Passport