Ellis saws

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Well I finally just said the heck with Enco, HF, Grizzly, WT, Jet etc, etc, etc, and I think Im gonna just tighten up my belt and go buy me a Ellis bandsaw.I have been beating my head against the wall long enough. I really like the Grizz Swivel head but it will run $1500 to get it to me.  Well if you do a search on Ebay there are some people selling Ellis 1600's for around $2350 with free shipping. Thats a pretty good deal I believe.   I don't really need that big of a saw but there is hardly no difference in money between the 1100 and 1600.The only thing I see is Ellis doesn't have a wet cooling system on their saws. They have air for extra $$$ but I was wondering why they don't see cooling systems standard on their machines. I guess they don't need one.Anyways, my original idea was to get a good bandsaw and drill press, but after talking to a bunch of people everyone ends up saying you'll either buy a good one now or buy a foreign job and then get a good one later... These are machinist talking...So with all that said, has anyone had much time on the different Ellis models, they all look the same, just bigger motors and wider blades....
Reply:For a coolant system, on my band saw, I have a cheep pond sump pump that I put on mine ( $15) when the original one went. Don't use it that often, but works just fine. Ellis saws are great, I plan on buying one when mine bites the dust, but my old WWII saw will probibly last 20 more years.
Reply:Once you have used an ellis saw, you won't go back to anything else.  I got a real nice wellsaw that was given to me by my grandfather that I restored.  But I used a ellis 1600 at the placed I worked at in the winter time before I went out on my own.   I can't wait till I have the cash laying around to get one.  Nothing beats it when cutting angles.Lincoln 300 Vantage 2008300 Commander 1999SA250 1999SA200 1968Miller Syncrowave 200XMT350MPA/S-52E/xr-15Xtreme 12vs Millermatic 251 w/30A  Millermatic 251 Dialarc 250 Hypertherm 1250 GEKA & Bantom Ironwokers
Reply:i was going to go with a ellis but i got all this for less moneynot much less Attached Images
Reply:Well, I sure hope so, cause that kind of money stings a little. Plus i'm gonna do without a drill press, but I talked myself out of that fairly easy, I don't use one very often.The Ellis's that you guys used... Did they have the air coolant system on them or nothing at all? Im wondering if I need something, but don't know how good the air system would work..
Reply:i bought a jet drill press from home depot .comit was $429.00 and free shipping Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by chadwickz71Well, I sure hope so, cause that kind of money stings a little. Plus i'm gonna do without a The Ellis's that you guys used... Did they have the air coolant system on them or nothing at all? Im wondering if I need something, but don't know how good the air system would work..
Reply:How much cutting could you do with it Dry? I've been looking around on their site a little, what kind of warranty do they have? I guess they just sell to only a few dealers. I don't see any place on their site that shows if anyone carries them around Dallas TX.
Reply:chad did you get the dvd from ellis and the accessories are $425.00
Reply:Originally Posted by chadwickz71How much cutting could you do with it Dry? TX.
Reply:I had a Johnson Model J for 20 years,and tryied my buddys new Ellis,I found one on Ebay,fromTom,Mr Machinery,its a 1800,he threw in a brand new vice,also the old type screw vice,Thats under the bench some place,,I dont know how I ever lived with out it! All dry,Unless i stack 10 ps of 1/2 x 12 and ill give it a shot of pb blaster once every 10 mins,He also said im throwing some extra blades in!!!!!! there were 16!!!!!!!Ive called ellis,Needed a new brush for the blade,,about 4 bucks,and they are dead set against using a wet system,,Dont know why,But there 6 months back loged,so there doing some thing right!!!!!!! What a pleasure,The saw and dealing with Tom,,I had to put in about 850 bucks between what i got for the Johnson,Wish I did it 19 years ago!!!!!!!!! You wont be sorry!!I had a fellow dome in and wanted a 45 cut on a 45  degree,I just took the vice off and clamped the pipe in the saw,as it was bigger than cap,,You could not see a hair from the cut!!! Good Luck,and Hope you like it,,Plus they hold there value,if for some reason you ever want to sell it!!!!!!!!,Jack
Reply:What kind of tables do you guys have. home-made, or bought.
Reply:Chad: I had been using "wet" cut saws for 20 some years, you end up with coolant all over the shop. Placing buckets under the ends of the stock to catch what you can. Then spend another ??? minutes cleaning off the coolant sop you can weld them. Got my Ellis 1600 two years a go, So east to keep clean no coolant to worry about. I have cut solid 4"x 8" steel no coolant and made 10 + cuts in a row on this stock. Tube steel 1"x1"x.125 bundled 8X8 cutting pickets for guard rail set the stop repeats spot on and it requires little baby sitting. Angles are a snap turn one handle set the angle tighten the handle and cut. I have used most all brands of saw automated to manual all wet, Ill take the Ellis. If I were cutting many thousand feet a day I might sing another tune, but for a small fab shop the Ellis's ability to switch setups quickly and it dry cut system It can't be beat. I have yet to wear out a blade I have broken many by not following the rules. Here is one thing I really appreciate about the Ellis is the ability to adjust the blade's relationship to the table is all directions, allowing the user to get the cut spot on square or true in both planes
Reply:Originally Posted by joebasssssssssBest saw around for the money. No need for coolant. The Ellis isnt designed for it. I use mine everyday. I use it on evertything from 1/4 rounds to 8" channel. Also cut solids up to 4" round and alot of tubing. No air system either but I do have infeed and outfeed tables. There are a ton of guys at Miller and SFT that have them. As do most of the slaggers.
Reply:Saw blades, drills--any cutting tool needs coolant, cleaning, lubrication--for decent performance.That's kinda of a given. Below is what has worked very well, in my shop.http://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Produ...IZER__Jr_.htmlLenox makes and sells a Micronizer Lube system (around $230+)--that really works, without the mess of flood coolant, etc. It sends micro droplets of their lube, thru 2 air tubes, lubing the blade in back of the cut. Air cools the blade, heat is disipated throughout the blade by their jojaba-based lube.*****this IS NOT a mist system*******I use m2, m4, premium blades and have excellent blade life--no burning. Lennox claims this coolant is effective in lube and cooling up to 4" dia. rounds. I don't doubt it.I've used one for fab. shop sawing, for 17 years on a Wells 9 x 12. Anything from 1/8" thick to 2" thick, pipe and structurals to about 8" dia. area. I bought my first system, after talking to 2 other, local fab shops using the same, on larger production saws.I use 1 gallon of Lennox Jojaba based lube......every 10 years....about $90;instead of at least that--annually, plus the labor of cleaning out the sump,paying guys to clean all the cut parts and constantly cleaning up the floor and layout tables from flood over run--especially when cutting welded bundles of tubing, then having to clean and swab the insides of the tubing, etc.Then there's the wet chip disposal problem. I have dry chips, period.I have clean cuts, no coolant change-outs, messes, dry chips--no disposal problems. This is too cost effective a lube system for most professional shops to use......and that's 'why' you do not frequently see it. Prior to this I had to deal with flood coolant, all the mess, trouble and expense of that....no more.'Sum-Tymes' cheaper costs more....that's why Harbor Freight is successful--cheap tools to buy and expensive to use!Last edited by dave powelson; 08-03-2008 at 06:13 PM.Reason: correctionBlackbird
Reply:Dave,Thanks,for 230 bucks,and 9 dollars a year,thats a steal,,I would love to know ellis easoning!!!! But they are dead set against a cooling sys,and never heard a complaint,,for the price of your set up,I all ready filled it,if i ever need to put a sys on my ellis,Thats the way to go!  tHANKS FOR THE GOOD INFO,,JUST BAFFLES ME AND SO MANY OTHERS,no coolant!!!!!!!!!!!?????????????tHERE HAS TO BE A REASON,,Thanks for the good tip,,sure would make every machine alot cleaner,and the time saved!Dave when you say 230 bucks is expensive,when you have  a machine making money all day,,Thats a True steal!!!!!!! Even for a hobbiest,IMO!,Thanks.JackLast edited by Storts; 08-03-2008 at 07:49 PM.
Reply:That may very well be, but Ellis specifically say NOT to use any coolant on their saws and their blades are made for their saws. If the manufacturer says no-go for best results...then the choice is simple.
Reply:Don,The 16 blades that came as a surprise with mine,all practice safe sawingThey all have a hard plastic sleeve covering the teeth,,and Mine came from boeing,Tom,didnt take the stickers off the blades,, At 82 bucks a pop,,The old saying goes,,If it aint broke.dont fix it!!!!!!!Theres a reasoning behine it,as there site says,No matter where you buy your blades come from,NO Collant,,And Ive never heard od one complaint,,I know if i tried that with my old Johnson,,1 or 2 days and a 65 gollar blade was toast!?????????????????Its a doozy of a answer,must be!??????????
Reply:Originally Posted by dave powelsonSaw blades, drills--any cutting tool needs coolant, cleaning, lubrication--for decent performance.That's kinda of a given. Below is what has worked very well, in my shop.http://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Produ...IZER__Jr_.htmlLenox makes and sells a Micronizer Lube system (around $230+)--that really works, without the mess of flood coolant, etc. It sends micro droplets of their lube, thru 2 air tubes, lubing the blade in back of the cut. Air cools the blade, heat is disipated throughout the blade by their jojaba-based lube.*****this IS NOT a mist system*******I use m2, m4, premium blades and have excellent blade life--no burning. Lennox claims this coolant is effective in lube and cooling up to 4" dia. rounds. I don't doubt it.I've used one for fab. shop sawing, for 17 years on a Wells 9 x 12. Anything from 1/8" thick to 2" thick, pipe and structurals to about 8" dia. area. I bought my first system, after talking to 2 other, local fab shops using the same, on larger production saws.I use 1 gallon of Lennox Jojaba based lube......every 10 years....about $90;instead of at least that--annually, plus the labor of cleaning out the sump,paying guys to clean all the cut parts and constantly cleaning up the floor and layout tables from flood over run--especially when cutting welded bundles of tubing, then having to clean and swab the insides of the tubing, etc.Then there's the wet chip disposal problem. I have dry chips, period.I have clean cuts, no coolant change-outs, messes, dry chips--no disposal problems. This is too cost effective a lube system for most professional shops to use......and that's 'why' you do not frequently see it. Prior to this I had to deal with flood coolant, all the mess, trouble and expense of that....no more.'Sum-Tymes' cheaper costs more....that's why Harbor Freight is successful--cheap tools to buy and expensive to use!
Reply:Originally Posted by StortsDave,Thanks,for 230 bucks,and 9 dollars a year,thats a steal,,I would love to know ellis easoning!!!! But they are dead set against a cooling sys,and never heard a complaint,,for the price of your set up,I all ready filled it,if i ever need to put a sys on my ellis,Thats the way to go!  tHANKS FOR THE GOOD INFO,,JUST BAFFLES ME AND SO MANY OTHERS,no coolant!!!!!!!!!!!?????????????tHERE HAS TO BE A REASON,,Thanks for the good tip,,sure would make every machine alot cleaner,and the time saved!;););)
Reply:DaveYou ever have occasion to stop by or visit the old Yolo Blacksmith shop?????  In the little town of Yolo?  Still operating, least till a couple years ago.   Power shafts going across, loop the belt for whatever you want over the sheaves.  Even a couple old forges, and plenty of old anvils.   Just like walking back into the 1880's.  Real men work there ......Last edited by mark8310; 08-03-2008 at 08:40 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by mark8310DaveYou ever have occasion to stop by or visit the old Yolo Blacksmith shop?????  In the little town of Yolo?  Still operating, least till a couple years ago.   Power shafts going across, loop the belt for whatever you want over the sheaves.  Even a couple old forges, and plenty of old anvils.   Just like walking back into the 1880's.  Real men work there ......:cool::cool:
Reply:Hmm,,, lost of posting since i've been by...I am for the coolant but also like to do what the manufacture says...  I guess a good bi-metal lenox blade is about $30 maybe?  I don't know how long the blade will last and that is a loaded question,, but im not going to be running the saw a whole lot and the material won't be huge solids. So if I can get a few months out of a blade I'll probably just go dry.Truth is I'll probably do something stupid and end up damaging the blade before it gets dull and will probably be replacing them for that reason more often
Reply:Originally Posted by dave powelsonSaw blades, drills--any cutting tool needs coolant, cleaning, lubrication--for decent performance.That's kinda of a given. Below is what has worked very well, in my shop.http://www.lenoxtools.com/enUS/Produ...IZER__Jr_.htmlLenox makes and sells a Micronizer Lube system (around $230+)--that really works, without the mess of flood coolant, etc. It sends micro droplets of their lube, thru 2 air tubes, lubing the blade in back of the cut. Air cools the blade, heat is disipated throughout the blade by their jojaba-based lube.*****this IS NOT a mist system*******I use m2, m4, premium blades and have excellent blade life--no burning. Lennox claims this coolant is effective in lube and cooling up to 4" dia. rounds. I don't doubt it.I've used one for fab. shop sawing, for 17 years on a Wells 9 x 12. Anything from 1/8" thick to 2" thick, pipe and structurals to about 8" dia. area. I bought my first system, after talking to 2 other, local fab shops using the same, on larger production saws.I use 1 gallon of Lennox Jojaba based lube......every 10 years....about $90;instead of at least that--annually, plus the labor of cleaning out the sump,paying guys to clean all the cut parts and constantly cleaning up the floor and layout tables from flood over run--especially when cutting welded bundles of tubing, then having to clean and swab the insides of the tubing, etc.Then there's the wet chip disposal problem. I have dry chips, period.I have clean cuts, no coolant change-outs, messes, dry chips--no disposal problems. This is too cost effective a lube system for most professional shops to use......and that's 'why' you do not frequently see it. Prior to this I had to deal with flood coolant, all the mess, trouble and expense of that....no more.'Sum-Tymes' cheaper costs more....that's why Harbor Freight is successful--cheap tools to buy and expensive to use!
Reply:Originally Posted by chadwickz71Hmm,,, lost of posting since i've been by...I am for the coolant but also like to do what the manufacture says...  I guess a good bi-metal lenox blade is about $30 maybe?  I don't know how long the blade will last and that is a loaded question,, but im not going to be running the saw a whole lot and the material won't be huge solids. So if I can get a few months out of a blade I'll probably just go dry.Truth is I'll probably do something stupid and end up damaging the blade before it gets dull and will probably be replacing them for that reason more often;);)I plan on getting a few different blades for different cutting but is a vari 10-14 a good all around blade.I'd like to get a blade to cut 14ga. 1" square tubing and then at least up to 3/16 thick 4" square tubing and angle.  Of course a lot of variations of that but the majority of my cutting will fall withen that category. What vari blade would be best.then i'll order one for 1/4" to 3/8 thickness.
Reply:If you are dead set on an Ellis, and there is no reason not to be...I would suggest calling Ellis and talking with them. By all reports, they are nice guys to deal with, esp the head guy whose name escapes me at the moment. They can tell you everything and anything you want to know. The big guy will also make deals on machines and shipping. Might make it worth your while to give them a buzz. I plan to when I finally get the clams to get one.
Reply:BTW, Ellis blades are reportedly the best for them.....wonder what the difference is?QamuIs Heg qaq law' lorvIs yInqaq puS
Reply:Originally Posted by chadwickz71I plan on getting a few different blades for different cutting but is a vari 10-14 a good all around blade.I'd like to get a blade to cut 14ga. 1" square tubing and then at least up to 3/16 thick 4" square tubing and angle.  Of course a lot of variations of that but the majority of my cutting will fall withen that category. What vari blade would be best.then i'll order one for 1/4" to 3/8 thickness.
Reply:I'll remember to ask them about their blades.  I'll be using a Lenox i think.. Seems that no matter what post Im reading that name always seems to pop up.
Reply:The guy to talk with at Ellis is Pep.QamuIs Heg qaq law' lorvIs yInqaq puS
Reply:Can Ellis sell direct?John
Reply:The way it was told to me was they will sell direct if there isn't a dealer near you. They don't have any in South Texas so I know i would be good. I don't think they have any in Tx. hey...maybe I should be a dealer...they would get a discount.QamuIs Heg qaq law' lorvIs yInqaq puS
Reply:Well I can get it through ebay for $2350 free shipping.  There isn't a dealer in Tx i believe.  Anybody ever get a price from them.  If they can beat that price which logically they should I'd be pretty happy.Looks like i'll be giving them a ring.
Reply:Originally Posted by ed maci was going to go with a ellis but i got all this for less moneynot much less
Reply:How are they on warranty and support. Has anyone ever had dealings with them on a problem?
Reply:We've got a pair of Ellis saws at work that see only light use anymore.  Thats for two reasons:First is we have two large verticals for angles (Hydmech V-18 and a similar from another mfg with shuttle vise and programmable cutting), and a Hydmech H18 for straight cuts.  Second is anyone using one of the Ellis saw is generally just doing one or two cuts and opens the downfeed screw all the way, stripping teeth off the blade during the cut.  I feel the Ellis is a good saw if you use it properly.  I don't miss coolant when using it, coolant makes a mess.
Reply:are they doing that just because they cut to slow or do they not know any better.Anyone else have input on their Support for their saws.
Reply:Only time I had to call,and there all a pleasure to talk to,was i needed a 4 dollar chip brush that goes in back of the front roller,(Cleans the cutting chips off the blade),And thats been it in all the years,and i have the 1800 model,I agree,no collant ,No mess!!!!!!!,JackLast edited by Storts; 08-20-2008 at 09:01 AM.Reason: Spellling as Usual
Reply:Storts, that sounds good.  Being that this will be my first step up from a 15amp chop saw.Can you give me some kind of idea how fast it cuts.  I know there are many varibles including the type shape thickness etc of what your cutting, but could you give me some kind of idea on a single piece(not bundle) of tubing or angle.  Just tell me what it was and about how long it took if possible.I really don't know what to expect.