Introducing Filler Rod On Aluminum GTAW???

admin

I am going thru the steps of trying to better my TIG welding. One problem is introducing the filler wire on aluminum. Once I have a good welding pool started I try to add filler rod and it seems to want to turn black and ball up. Should the filler rod be started in the shielding gas when the weld is started???
Reply:Sounds like:1) You have the torch angled toward the filler too much.2) Filler rod not wiped down with acetone before using.3) Shielding gas rate too high (drawing in atmosphere).Filler rod should be dipped into the puddle once formed and it may help to pull the torch back to the backside of the puddle just as you dip.  May also find it helpful to give the pedal a little more as you dip to keep the puddle fluid.IMOMM200 w/Spoolmatic 1Syncrowave 180SDBobcat 225G Plus - LP/NGMUTT Suitcase WirefeederWC-1S/Spoolmatic 1HF-251D-1PakMaster 100XL '68 Red Face Code #6633 projectStar Jet 21-110Save Second Base!
Reply:The filler rod should be started at anytime after the formation of the puddle. It sounds like the filler rod is contaminated. Maybe you could try feeding the filler into the edge of the puddle . It could be that the filler rod is being burned up before it comes in contact with the melted pool of aluminum.  Mac
Reply:Originally Posted by duaneb55Sounds like:1) You have the torch angled toward the filler too much.2) Filler rod not wiped down with acetone before using.3) Shielding gas rate too high (drawing in atmosphere).Filler rod should be dipped into the puddle once formed and it may help to pull the torch back to the backside of the puddle just as you dip.  May also find it helpful to give the pedal a little more as you dip to keep the puddle fluid.IMO
Reply:what size nozzle are you using?  how much stick out?  arc length?  filler rod thickness? material thickness?  amperage? balance? lots of missing info? 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:Only happens at the start of the weld?  Then you likely are adding rod a little too early.  The puddle must be well formed or your torch heat melts the rod and you get what you described.Dave J.Edit:  good video arc shots here:http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/...-training.htmlLast edited by MinnesotaDave; 04-28-2013 at 10:59 PM.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:what size nozzle are you using?  ..... I am using a #8how much stick out?..... stick out 3/16" - 1/4"arc length? .....about 1/8"filler rod thickness?.....  filler rod thickness 3/32"material thickness? ..... .125"amperage?..... amperage 105 to 115balance? ..... anywhere from 60 - 65
Reply:Wow that's a good one, I haven't had to think about this for some time now. So let's start out with some parameters so you will have somewhere to start......Lets start with lets say 1/4" 6061 plate...Install a 3/32"  tungsten (I assume your machine is a transformer type)  a GREEN pure tungsten with a # 6 cup let the tungsten stick out about 1/4" or less.... Use Argon set to 15 CFH and 3/32"4043 filler.......Set your weld amps to 130 amps, Balance in the middle maybe a bit toward PEN.  Hold your torch at about the same angle you hold a pencil and "PUSH"  the weld direction........Hold a tight gap between the plate and tungsten press the pedal full down and wait for a shiny puddle to form at that point make a deliberate movement (DAB) with your filler with it close to the plate (NOT a steep angle) make sure you get in and out quick enough that the filler rod just leaves a DAB of metal.......This will change once you establish a style.......Now  take some pics and show us whats going on.......Last edited by B_C; 04-28-2013 at 11:09 PM.  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Hahahahaaha you must have been typing while I was  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Your amps are too low for 1/8" aluminum.
Reply:Not necessarily, it depends on the weld joint......  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:http://www.ckworldwide.com/technical_specs.pdf  Heres a link to some helpful tig info and weld parameters.
Reply:Not to hijack and certainly not trying to argue as I'm a super noob hobby guy trying to learn but I was under the impression its 1 amp per .001" of material thickness and even more so for aluminum. I thought you wanted it hot to start to break through the oxide layer then back off the peddle. When or what kind of joints would you want less amps?  Thanks for any insight. Cheers!
Reply:Good point but what if your material is 1/8"  and your welding on the EDGE.....That setting is a starting point and you still have a PEDAL........If Im welding 50 parts and using a weld fixture I set the machine so I can floor it and get just what I need to make a good weld.....If I am welding a one off part I set the machine higher than I need it and use the pedal because I might have a corner and a side on the part which require different heat settingsLast edited by B_C; 04-28-2013 at 11:28 PM.  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock
Reply:Buttering the edge of a single piece of 1/8"... maybe. I still leave the machine set at 150-180 even doing outside corners with the edges just touching. I just don't hammer the pedal quite as heavy when I start, and back off faster while running. I still leave the amps set higher because you can't use amps above the max setting.105-115 is just too low on average for 1/8" material unless you are using the advanced functions on an inverter and you have the frequency and the penetration cranked way up, or if buttering an edge..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Lol!  Thanks for catching my use of the wrong word, I hate when I do that. Like I said I'm as green as they come learning tig. I try and learn from these posts as well as help if I can. I guess as new as I am I shouldn't be giving out help. Speaking of trying to help, to the more experienced guys, what do you think of the link I provided?  I'd hate to be "peddling" crappy welding links. LOL!
Reply:Info in that link looked ok from the brief look I took of it..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Originally Posted by CCFD170 I thought you wanted it hot to start to break through the oxide layer then back off the peddle.
Reply:Originally Posted by Oscar.. An extreme example would be that you can get tons of oxide cleaning if you have low amperage set the balance to a lot of EP (or low EN, same thing), but the heat for the penetration cycle would utterly suck and would have a very small weld puddle NOT suitable for dabbing filler.
Reply:Originally Posted by Donoharmthere.. now it makes some sense....
Reply:Originally Posted by Oscarthanks, lol.  That's what I meant to say, but I dunno why I missed the "not" lol.
Reply:As time goes by like I said you will create your own style, it's like a signature  Miller Dynasty 350Twenty Six HammersThree Crow BarsBig Rock