Rust on my table top

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So I came across some 1/2" plate (2'x2'), shear cut on CL.  I bought 9 separate pieces, and sold 5.  I plan on keeping three or four, for myself, and making a 2'x6' or 4'x4' table ... not sure yet.  My question is how much surface rust if any is acceptable?  The pieces were used for some type of structure which required they be in contact with the ground. The piece on the hand truck is how most of them are.  The following images are after I took a wire wheel to them.  I still want to soak some rags in Evapo Rust and lay them on the surface.Your thoughts? Attached Images
Reply:I wouldn't worry about the rust at all. It will come off on its own as u use it. Grinding off spatter and stuff will eventually get it all off.
Reply:Ditto, use it clean
Reply:Rust gives it character...POVERTY...is the Mother of InventionMillermatic 211Millermatic 140Miller Thunderbolt XLArcOne 100STS inverter w/TIGThermal Dynamics 38XL Victor Oxy/AcetyleneJancy Slugger Holemaker IIJet 5x6 BandsawNever enough time & sleep.
Reply:Phospho it.
Reply:Hit it with the flap-wheel.  You probably won't have to remove enough material to effect the flatness of the table.  If you start checking you'll probably find the pieces aren't really that flat anyway.Dynasty200DX w/coolmate1MM210MM VintageESAB miniarc161ltsLincoln AC225Victor O/A, Smith AW1ACutmaster 81IR 2475N7.5FPRage3Jancy USA1019" SBAEAD-200LE
Reply:Originally Posted by jamesyarbroughI wouldn't worry about the rust at all. It will come off on its own as u use it. Grinding off spatter and stuff will eventually get it all off.
Reply:If its bothering you that bad ill take it off your hands sir
Reply:Put some sand and water on it and drag a concrete block back and forth to cut down the high rust spots.  Or get one of those 20-grit concrete rub bricks. It would be useful down the road to get rid of spatter."USMCPOP" First-born son: KIA  Iraq 1/26/05Syncrowave 250 w/ Coolmate 3Dialarc 250, Idealarc 250SP-175 +Firepower TIG 160S (gave the TA 161 STL to the son)Lincwelder AC180C (1952)Victor & Smith O/A torchesMiller spot welder
Reply:Spend some time with the wirebrush cup like it looks like you did already and it will be fine.   I keep laughing at the post's on here of a blanchard ground table and all kinds of fixtures bolted to it to make one end table, that's not how it is in the real world.  You need a flat surface but you don't need it under .003" kind of flat either.   Basically your plate might not meet "hobby" welder status but a guy could get along fine on it in most real job shops.
Reply:I had the same problem with my top 4x8x 1/2"  200$ couldn't pass it up.Had little rust, wire wheel just was not doing it so I used a diamond cup grind wheel for concrete had a little life left in it and since I had a few newones why not try it. It worked really good, left score marks on it but nothingmy belt sander with heavy grit paper couldn't fix. Loud as heck but rust was flying , looked like a rust storm went through my garage, so you mightwant to do it outside when the wind is blowing towards your neighbors house ha.ha.Go slow so you can get good coverage. Grooves were not deep at all .
Reply:I'm more curious about the motorcycle in the picture.. Whatcha got there?
Reply:Originally Posted by kevinstjI'm more curious about the motorcycle in the picture.. Whatcha got there?
Reply:Originally Posted by kevinstjI'm more curious about the motorcycle in the picture.. Whatcha got there?
Reply:Thanks for all your responses! If I left too much rust I wouldn't have a good contact, right? It will mainly be used for MIG projects.
Reply:Originally Posted by Ninz30It's a 1972 Suzuki T500 (two stroke). Still balls to the wall fast
Reply:Originally Posted by Ninz30It's a 1972 Suzuki T500 (two stroke). Still balls to the wall fast
Reply:Originally Posted by Ninz30Thanks for all your responses! If I left too much rust I wouldn't have a good contact, right? It will mainly be used for MIG projects.
Reply:I wouldn't worry about it. If you plan to use it for a welding table, it's going to get plenty farked up anyway from spatter, heat, tack welding stuff to it, grinder divots, etc etc etcI would just scrape off the barnacles with a sander or sand and a brick or whatever, and then put a thin coat of drain oil on it to prevent it from getting the red scaly rust and pits on it. Over time, it will develop a black layer of oxidation that will protect it to some degree.If you want a nice, non-rusty, highly conductive spot to attach your work clamp, you can get a torch and coat the steel by brazing some silicon bronze (or better yet, some pure copper from an old piece of wire) onto the steel.Last edited by Kelvin; 08-18-2013 at 09:44 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by cd19You want the rust off but the pitting shouldn't be an issue.