Chicago drill press chuck

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Have a chicago drill press my father purchased at an auction in the 70's.  The chuck is wore out and needs replaced.  Finally got the chuck off(no operators manual) and want to make sure I order the right one.  The drill has a plate on it that states(chuck capacity 5/8" spindle taper MT#2.  The chuck has stamped on it Allied, 3 TAPER, (AP.O-5/8".  So I assume I would order a Morse Taper 3 chuck with 5/8" capacity?  Also, should I get a Jacobs plain bearing, super or would something else be better?  Thanks in advance for any info.
Reply:It's strange that the nameplate on the drill press should give the specification MT#2, and the arbor that you removed was a MT#3.I hope the spindle socket in the drill press wasn't wallowed out, and somebody replaced it with a MT#3 to make it work.Try to fit a MT#2(you can buy the arbors seperate from the chuck for reasonable price) and see if it fits, and doesn't spin when you apply torque.  Also stick your finger in the spindle(motor off!!!!!!!) to see if it feels rough and damaged."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:If the drill press plate says #2 MT, I would assume it's correct. Does the chuck have a bushing/adapter for #2 to #3? Get a measurement of the taper diameter at its top and bottom and you'll know for sure. For MT#2, the measurements are: 0.700" and 0.572  while #3 is:  0.938" and 0.778The plain bearing type is cheaper but the others can be more accurate or easier to tighten securely; it depends on what you need, which only you know.
Reply:Measuring top and bottom of the integral shank I get .579 and .706 so I assume even though the chuck says 3 taper the shank measurments are morse taper #2.  Can the shanks be pressed out and the previous owner pressed a different chuck on the original shank?(never replaced a chuck before).  Would like to get a new chuck with integral shank as the female taper in the press looks good and chuck has always woobled slightly since we got it.  Assumed chuck shank is bent.
Reply:Hold it by the arbor, and give the chuck a good whack with a brass hammer(reg. hammer ok if the chuck is no good).  If that doesn't work, open the chuck all the way up, and insert a drift, or something suitable, and drive the arbor out from the chuck side."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I was thinking it was maybe an older style with a different setup. I guess the drill press has a female MT #2, the chuck has a female MT #3 and you use an adapter shank between them. Chucks come with a variety of tapers including Jacobs, and Morse; there used to be some others too.The shank in yours is a tapered friction fit which might be hard to get out. Open the chuck all the way and look to see if there is a hole through which you might be able to use a punch, to knock the adapter out.
Reply:Farmersamm, I keep getting interrupted and you keep beating me!
Reply:Originally Posted by Oldiron2Farmersamm, I keep getting interrupted and you keep beating me!
Reply:look to see if there is a slot in the spindle of the drill press, it will be located in the upper end where the tang of the morse taper chuck would stop. this slot will go all the way through the spindle, both sides. a wedge is inserted through the slot and bumped with a hammer which will push on the top of the tang of the chuck and drive it out of the spindle.clear as mud huh!!G3miller... 225g, s32p, 250x, 304, 12vs, MSW41     victor o/a thermal dynamics cutmaster 50 lenco panel spotter        hobart hf-boxG3 Farms.....raising cattle, hay, kids and hell, ...oh yeah I'm a fire sprinkler contractor by trade.
Reply:I managed to figure out how to remove the chuck, but wish I would have posted sooner and could have used your advice.   Wasn't hard once I figured out how to get at it.  Thanks to all for your comments.  New chuck and arbor are on the way.
Reply:Should have done this last night, but I just now got out to the shop this morning.Pic 1....  top to bottom:  Wedge used to loosen MT arbors, MT2-JT3 arbor, arbor and JT3 chuck assembledPic 2....  When installing new arbor make sure tang at top aligns with slot in drill pressPic 3....  Now let the real fun begin.  A small assortment of adapters, and arbors available for drilling and milling machinesIf you get hooked, prepare to die broke but with MANY GOODIES Attached Images"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Forget those old key operated chucks.You were lucky the #3 taper was stamped on the chuck. Many times it is not stamped and you have to figure it out.Get a German Albreght keyeless chuck. about $100.00  End of problems.No more drills that have slipped and you cannot read the info on it. Of coarse having a 6 inch caliper handy eliminates even trying to read info on the drill any way.There are less expensive keyless chucks too.BTW many people do not know that a chuck that uses a key, is supposed to have all three sides tightened to hold the drill. NOT just one hole.AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammShould have done this last night, but I just now got out to the shop this morning.Pic 1....  top to bottom:  Wedge used to loosen MT arbors, MT2-JT3 arbor, arbor and JT3 chuck assembledPic 2....  When installing new arbor make sure tang at top aligns with slot in drill pressPic 3....  Now let the real fun begin.  A small assortment of adapters, and arbors available for drilling and milling machinesIf you get hooked, prepare to die broke but with MANY GOODIES
Reply:Nice photos, farmersamm and nice assortment of tooling, but most (all) of your goodies are R-8 taper shanks for true milling machines.  This comment is not a "gotcha" but an effort to avoid giving North1 the impression that he can use his drill press as a milling machine by buying a bunch of adapters.Indeed, some beefier drill presses can be used successfully for light milling, but most lack the rigidity necessary to avoid chattering and the resulting damage to work and cutter.  A glance at the long snout on a drill press spindle with a Morse taper, in contrast to even a light duty milling machine with the R-8 spindle taper socket fully recessed into the bearing area of the spindle, tells the story.But the main point is for us all to enjoy using our tools within their capabilities.awright
Reply:Originally Posted by awrightNice photos, farmersamm and nice assortment of tooling, but most (all) of your goodies are R-8 taper shanks for true milling machines.  This comment is not a "gotcha" but an effort to avoid giving North1 the impression that he can use his drill press as a milling machine by buying a bunch of adapters.Indeed, some beefier drill presses can be used successfully for light milling, but most lack the rigidity necessary to avoid chattering and the resulting damage to work and cutter.  A glance at the long snout on a drill press spindle with a Morse taper, in contrast to even a light duty milling machine with the R-8 spindle taper socket fully recessed into the bearing area of the spindle, tells the story.But the main point is for us all to enjoy using our tools within their capabilities.awright
Reply:Nice pics Samm.  Pics #1 and #2 pretty much tell the story.The back of the chuck has a JT#3 taper in it (the hole).  The drill press has a MT#2 taper in it (the hole).  The adapter has a male JT#3 taper on one end and a male MT#2 taper on the other.  Insert adapter into drill press, lining up the tang into the slot in the side of the drill press quill.  Usually you can't put the tang in unless you line it up with the slot, but it's best to not rely on that.  The slot and tang are there so that you can put the wedge into the slot and give a little tap to remove the tapered shaft from the quill.  Don't whack the taper adapter to install it!  Just put a block of wood under the quill and pull a bit on the drillpress handle to lower the quill and taper adapter so that you can squeeze the adapter into place.  Then do the same thing with the new chuck, line everything up and pull down on the drillpress handle to squeeze it all together.Keep a hand on/under everything to make sure it all seated properly.  If you get some 'crud' on the tapers, they don't seat right and can just fall out.  Crud could be a piece of grit or lint, or a burr somewhere.And +1 on a drillpress really-really typically isn't made for milling.  The bearings and tapers and such aren't made for side loads like in milling, just pretty much straight in-line loads of drilling.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Originally Posted by Donald BranscomForget those old key operated chucks.You were lucky the #3 taper was stamped on the chuck. Many times it is not stamped and you have to figure it out.Get a German Albreght keyeless chuck. about $100.00  End of problems.No more drills that have slipped and you cannot read the info on it. Of coarse having a 6 inch caliper handy eliminates even trying to read info on the drill any way.There are less expensive keyless chucks too.BTW many people do not know that a chuck that uses a key, is supposed to have all three sides tightened to hold the drill. NOT just one hole.