Best rust inhibitor fo humid environments?

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I live in FL and I just picked up a HF 30" roller/shear/box-pan tool off of Craig's list.  Was not used much and everything looks to be in good shape.  It was, however, covered in saw dust and I am in the process of cleaning it up.  There is some surface rust on various parts that I have taken off with some fine steel wool.How can I protect this tool from rusting w/o spraying the whole thing down with wd40 or coating it in cosmoline?  I wont be using it a lot so it will be sitting idle most of the time.Should I use Naval Jelly on the rusty areas as well?Best regards,MichaelHobart Handler 120 (old and small, but just fine for the moment)Here's my other passion:Track: '82 Euro SC - A work in progress... or should I say in pieces...: See the carnage HERE Porsche PagesDaily: '00 VW Bug 1.8T K04 etc etc, Ex '03 European Car 1.8T Shootout: VW Pageswww: RHO DesignWhen asked how he could go so fast, J.M. Fangio replied, "Less brakes, more gas..."
Reply:I usually spray my metal parts with a little bit a wd-40 and then wipe it offf with a rag. I have used navel jelly before and it has worked OK. Not the best. If its smaller pieces that are rusted put them in an electrolysis bath for a few days.Ya gotta spend money to make money!
Reply:im in FL to things rust more down here then back in mass.i just a gal of eastwood fast etch pn# 19418zpgoing to try it this weekend
Reply:Jasco prep and rusty metal primer.  It basically is phosphoric acid with conditioners in it.  I spray it on.  Be sure to use a respirator if you do.  A quart will cover a lot.  You can brush it on.  It goes on clear and once it dries, it converts the metal scale and rust to Iron Phospate, a black or gray, hard protective surface.  It can later be painted right over it.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:Jasco prep and rusty metal primer.  It basically is phosphoric acid with conditioners in it.  I spray it on.  Be sure to use a respirator if you do.  A quart will cover a lot.  You can brush it on.  It goes on clear and once it dries, it converts the metal scale and rust to Iron Phospate, a black or gray, hard protective surface.  It can later be painted right over it.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:Jasco prep and rusty metal primer.  It basically is phosphoric acid with conditioners in it.  I spray it on.  Be sure to use a respirator if you do.  A quart will cover a lot.  You can brush it on.  It goes on clear and once it dries, it converts the metal scale and rust to Iron Phospate, a black or gray, hard protective surface.  It can later be painted right over it.You can buy it at Lowes in the paint section, usually with the paint thinners and solvents.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:Mod, please delete duplicate post.  Computer malfunctioned and duplicated post while I was trying to edit.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:Lugweld-----  Naw man, your computer's gettin' rusty"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I think Lugweld's just trying to get extra credit for extra writing---but in this case, I would have given exactly the same good advice. The phosphate is very stable and provides a good base for paint, as he said.  [That's what they use on me to keep me going!]  Last edited by Oldiron2; 01-21-2009 at 02:14 AM.
Reply:Don't know how it'd work in FL, but after cleaning the machines in my wood shop (tables, ways, etc) I apply a heavy coat of paste wax to prevent rusting from temp/humidy fluctuations.  I use Min-Wax or other good quality wax.  Works great.
Reply:I use Ph-Ospho-ric Plus it basically same as Jasco (kind of a green tinted solution). The Coast Guard uses it on their boats when they come in for retrofit, haul stripping and repaint. Several of the boatyards also use it. I have also seen it being used restore old cars and trucks, bridges, and building steel work.The stuff basically etch's into the metal and give a goood base for painting.If you use it do so wearing some chem resistant  gloves and a respirator.Co-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.&  2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:Is the Jasco, and phosphoric acid the same stuff I see on the morning farm show.  It's supposed to get rid of rust, keep it from coming back, and supposedly forms it's own finish that doesn't need painting.  Sounds too good to be true."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Well I am sitting here reading the label of the product I use and said above. And on the Front label in caps it says " READIES RUSTED SURFACES FOR PAINTING" . And everything on the package suggests its use prior to priming and painting. I have see the product that you talk about its called POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating. I get the product locally but one place I have seen it advertised at is http://www.quadratec.com (Quadratec is a place that sells jeep parts and related products) The ad I talk about is on page 271 of their catalog.I have used POR products for many years.  We use their products on locomotives , aircraft, production, automotive and farm use.Hope that helps Sam,TomCo-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.&  2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:I think I need to be a little clearer, sorry.  This is a machine like a slip roll or a metal shear.  The rollers and shears need to be bare of paint or primer and stuff like that.  What I'm wondering is how to keep this bare metal from rusting.  If its painted the paint will likely rub off during use...The wax and wd40 suggestions are more in line with what I was thinking... Was that just floor wax?  Right now I'm cleaning it off with 90% Isopropal and brake cleaner as needed and then wiping down with wd40...  Should I be using something thicker than wd40?Thanks for the comments all!-MichaelHobart Handler 120 (old and small, but just fine for the moment)Here's my other passion:Track: '82 Euro SC - A work in progress... or should I say in pieces...: See the carnage HERE Porsche PagesDaily: '00 VW Bug 1.8T K04 etc etc, Ex '03 European Car 1.8T Shootout: VW Pageswww: RHO DesignWhen asked how he could go so fast, J.M. Fangio replied, "Less brakes, more gas..."
Reply:Use the POR15 then since it converts the rust,Co-Own CNC shop:Miller :1251 plasma cutter, MaxStar 700 TIG/Stick, & XMT 456 Multiprocess Welder.&  2 Hypertherm HPR260's Plasma CutterSorry I had a bad stroke but now I am back.
Reply:Dry-Moly. It will protect he parts and will give it a slickness. I use the stuff on all my drillpress and mill tables.
Reply:we started useing corrosion x products on the ship im on. this stuff works so good that i bought some for the house. out here we have our fare share of rust and bimetalic corrosion and this stuff will eat though it all. this stuff works and i think that it is better than pb blaster.davehttp://corrosionxproducts.com/corrosionxpage.htm Attached ImagesIf you like my stuff you can find me on Facebook.  https://www.facebook.com/theangryanv...ngryanvilforge
Reply:POR does have Phosphoric acid in it; I think it is dissolved in a polymer which sets after the rust is converted to a phosphate, and the Jasco also is mostly P. Acid  . Navel Jelly also has other material, possibly some easily-reduced sugars to aid the oxidation-reduction reaction speed. The P. acid won't affect the steel, just the rust (except for, under some circumstances, forming a "passivated layer" on it's surface which isn't that permanent). If you have a uniform surface of rust, which can be applied with quick-bluing solutions even, that can be converted to the phosphate which should be more durable than any wax.Some paints are tough enough to withstand the wear on this kind of equipment, and shouldn't affect its operation either. Even if spots wear off, the wear shouldn't matter and the rest is still protected, I'd think.[I think that's worth at least 3 cents.]
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammIs the Jasco, and phosphoric acid the same stuff I see on the morning farm show.  It's supposed to get rid of rust, keep it from coming back, and supposedly forms it's own finish that doesn't need painting.  Sounds too good to be true.
Reply:I think Hammer came up with maybe the right stuff.  It's meant to protect virgin bright steel/cast iron.We all have been thinking about removing rust.  I think the slip roll the OP is talkin' about has already been cleaned and shined, and he wants to keep it from rusting.So.......... Does the Dry Moly pick up dirt/chips etc.  And will it migrate in coolant so's you have to use a tramp thingy to remove it.??"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:I have been using Boeshield for years on my aircraft and my tools/metal. If it's good enough for Boeing, it's good enough for me.http://www.boeshield.com/
Reply:AH! I knew there were products out there to fit this bill.  Looks like I'll be trying the Dry Moly or the Boeshield.  I have a small drill press that is all rusted up so the alternate topic posts on this thread were also a great help!Thanks all!Best regards,MichaelHobart Handler 120 (old and small, but just fine for the moment)Here's my other passion:Track: '82 Euro SC - A work in progress... or should I say in pieces...: See the carnage HERE Porsche PagesDaily: '00 VW Bug 1.8T K04 etc etc, Ex '03 European Car 1.8T Shootout: VW Pageswww: RHO DesignWhen asked how he could go so fast, J.M. Fangio replied, "Less brakes, more gas..."
Reply:where to get the dry molly
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammI think Hammer came up with maybe the right stuff.  It's meant to protect virgin bright steel/cast iron.We all have been thinking about removing rust.  I think the slip roll the OP is talkin' about has already been cleaned and shined, and he wants to keep it from rusting.So.......... Does the Dry Moly pick up dirt/chips etc.  And will it migrate in coolant so's you have to use a tramp thingy to remove it.??