What to look for in a good drill bit set.

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With my fabrication side work starting to take off, I am finding myself looking for "good quality" hardware rather than disposable stuff.   I have had good luck with my set boesh set from lows but that will only last so long.  It also does not go over 1/2"What I am asking is, what am I looking for in a good set that goes upwards of 1" if possible.  I know price is going to be up there but I am willing to make the investment and wanted to hear the opinions of the "pros" before I buy.  As of right now, I don't even know where to start when it comes to long lasting bits.  So if you can also point me in the right direction of what to look for and what not to get that would be great.I am also currently, limited to 1/2" chuck on my Delta bench top drill press but will be looking for a larger chuck if need be.Thankyou all-RustyCome try it out and stay a while.
Reply:You'll need to go to a quality supply place to buy a decent set or an old school hardware store.  A store like Fastenal carries decent quality drill bits.  They carry Norseman and even Bosch too if you like.  Any American made bits are of decent quality.  German ones as well.  But coated or cobalt bits will last a longer time with out resharpening.  I  wouldn't get any fancy tipped bits due to the fact they are nearly impossible to resharpen.Esab Migmaster 250Lincoln SA 200Lincoln Ranger 8Smith Oxy Fuel setupEverlast PowerPlasma 80Everlast Power iMIG 160Everlast Power iMIG 205 Everlast Power iMIG 140EEverlast PowerARC 300Everlast PowerARC 140STEverlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Reply:Yea, my Bosch set is a kobalt set.  I will definatly have to check out Fastenal, have several locally.Come try it out and stay a while.
Reply:get a drill doctor first. then buy a set with three flat shanks. i would want to make sure they were either high quality imports or us made. cleveland are my favorite. the drill doctor can make even poor bits do a  good job.insert thoughtful quote from someone else2000 Thermal Arc 300GTSW 3.5 hours1946 Monarch 20 x 54 Lathe1998 Supermax 10x54 Mill2004 Haco Atlantic 1/2" Capacity Lasernot mine but i get to play with it
Reply:Sign up for the MSC and Enco sales flyers, or look them up on their websites each month.  There's always a large selection of drill bits on sale.  Fastenal may be local and more convenient than mail order, I've had very good experiences each time I've dealt with them.For sizes smaller than about 1/4" I prefer screw machine length (stubby), with split points. The larger sizes are generally reduced shank, commonly called Silver and Demming.  For just drilling holes in larger sizes (3/4" + ) I prefer to use a mag drill and rotabroach if I have the proper size cutter available.
Reply:Ever since I taught myself to sharpen bits, I have been less concerned about the quality.
Reply:Victor machinery is out of New York.... They have a good selection of drill bits and other stuff.Prices are not to bad...http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/victor/index.html
Reply:A drill press capable of turning 1 " or larger bits is necessary, not just a larger chuck. Small drill with large bits will produce frustration and ruined bits. As stated a drill doctor is a good tool to have.  It will stretch the life of drill bits.    Good luck  with you business.
Reply:Searched victor's site, nothing over 1/2"As far as the drill press, It is rated for constant use up to 3/4" bits and temp use up to 1" bits.  Anything larger than that and the plasma cutter is coming out.Come try it out and stay a while.
Reply:Check the capacity carefully.  Sometimes drill manufacturers show capacity in cast iron, and steel.  A lot only show it in cast iron.I have a 3/4hp benchtop drill press, and it literally pukes if you drill over 5/8 in steel with a twist bit."Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammCheck the capacity carefully.  Sometimes drill manufacturers show capacity in cast iron, and steel.  A lot only show it in cast iron.I have a 3/4hp benchtop drill press, and it literally pukes if you drill over 5/8 in steel with a twist bit.
Reply:I can go as low as something like 230rpm, and the belts still slip with the bigger bits at a slow feed with coolant.  Drilling sucks unless you have a really good industrial type drill, or a milling machine.You could go to a higher diameter hole with annular cutters, but it's expensive to get into that deal.Lots of times you can use a bigger bit if you put material under the hole you want to drill.  Put a sacrificial piece of steel, thick enough so you don't hit the vice, under the steel your drilling.  It supports the whole width of the bit as it begins to go thru the hole in the workpiece.  The greatest problem is the high torque load on the outer edges of the bit as you begin to break thru the hole.  It'll spin the Morse Taper arbor.  This way, the bit is fully supported and putting full load on the tapered arbor to keep it seated as it goes thru.  Lots of funA HOLE LOTTA FUN"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Originally Posted by farmersammI can go as low as something like 230rpm, and the belts still slip with the bigger bits at a slow feed with coolant.  Drilling sucks unless you have a really good industrial type drill, or a milling machine.You could go to a higher diameter hole with annular cutters, but it's expensive to get into that deal.Lots of times you can use a bigger bit if you put material under the hole you want to drill.  Put a sacrificial piece of steel, thick enough so you don't hit the vice, under the steel your drilling.  It supports the whole width of the bit as it begins to go thru the hole in the workpiece.  The greatest problem is the high torque load on the outer edges of the bit as you begin to break thru the hole.  It'll spin the Morse Taper arbor.  This way, the bit is fully supported and putting full load on the tapered arbor to keep it seated as it goes thru.  Lots of funA HOLE LOTTA FUN
Reply:WOO HOO!!!I'm usually only about 3/4 full of sheeeeetSeriously though,  I have pretty low powered equipment, and I've had to figure out every way possible to extend it's capabilities"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:Victor carries 3/4" reduced shank bits up to 2".... 1/2" shank up to 1.5"...http://www.victornet.com/cgi-bin/vic...12%2C568%2C557If you want to knock out larger holes, consider a anular cutter, hole saw or fly cutter.Last edited by Billdacat; 01-13-2009 at 07:29 AM.
Reply:Can't go wrong with anything drill bit that says made in USA on it.  I have noticed good quality HSS bits last longer than hardware brand cobalt bits, even made in USA ones.  I like drill bits from brands like Triumph, Viking, Precision Twist.  You're looking at shelling out $120+ for a 16 piece index of HSS bits.  They aren't worth the price unless you have the facilities to sharpen them.  In my one production job, we used Sandvik Coromant tools.
Reply:Originally Posted by chenryget a drill doctor first. then buy a set with three flat shanks. i would want to make sure they were either high quality imports or us made. cleveland are my favorite. the drill doctor can make even poor bits do a  good job.
Reply:Look for a HSS (high speed steel) drill bit set for top performance. It will cost more, but that's what you want.
Reply:we started to stock Norseman brand drills at work, entire index from 1/16 to 3/4 in 16's incrementsnorseman is a REALLY good brand, awesome awesome product.  sold by fastenal
Reply:Originally Posted by Loose07never able to get one of them to work have better luck on the belt sander sharpening them myself still dont have the technique quite down though bout one out of five times i get it, old machinist i work with can sharpen them like you couldnt believe, cut better than new and stay sharp longer to!
Reply:Originally Posted by chenry... but most people will never have the requirement to build that skill to the level that a 80 dollar split pointing drill doctor will do for them.
Reply:another source for good drill bits is EMI Supply Inc. They have their own private brand of cobalt bits as well as the Norseman bits. They don't have the larger sizes listed on their website but I just usally call.http://www.emisupply.com/
Reply:My favorite bit set I used is a MAC Tools bit set. It is probably overpriced but in the shop I worked in a while back we had a recall on the Dodge trailer hitches and had to drill several holes in the frame and trailer hitch. My bits held up better and cut faster than anybody else's bits in the shop. Unfortunately when everybody figured that out they started using my bits and now I am missing about 25% of them. I think mine are cobalts. I remember buying the best they offered when I bought them.
Reply:Just buy cobalt drill bits.End of problems.They are cobalt on m-38 steel.You can drill stainless or steel. Skip all the junk.Don't be tricked into buying the stupid titanium coated drill bits.Titanium cars ,titanium computercases(made out of plastic) titanium cell phones (plastic)What a bunch of baloney!AWS certified welding inspectorAWS certified welder
Reply:Originally Posted by familyxjMy favorite bit set I used is a MAC Tools bit set. It is probably overpriced but in the shop I worked in a while back we had a recall on the Dodge trailer hitches and had to drill several holes in the frame and trailer hitch. My bits held up better and cut faster than anybody else's bits in the shop. Unfortunately when everybody figured that out they started using my bits and now I am missing about 25% of them. I think mine are cobalts. I remember buying the best they offered when I bought them.I have a set I got from Kimball-Midwest and they are great, 3 sided shank, and tough as nails. I think they are some kind of extra tough tool steel, $$$ but worth it. USE LOTS OF OIL/COOLANT WHILE DRILLING.Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."