Alpha Omega branding Iron

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This is my attempt at a branding iron. The Alpha Omega branding IronI need to just quit thinking about it and just weld the handle.The backside was welded with 6011 at about 75amps.The front side was with Helium  local at 250 amps DCEN straight polarity and foot pedal was in between somewhere.I do bedder without filler but I used Silvalloy and good He at about 5psi or minimum flow. I used half a tank learning TIG so far so I have about 150 cubic ft left. I used less than 1 cubic ft for this practice.I need an Argon tank badly.Pics of my 6011 will have to weight Attached ImagesLast edited by Insaneride; 10-24-2012 at 12:41 AM.Reason: I meen 6011
Reply:Kind of a 'rough' finish... but it's way cool!Rick V 1 Airco Heliwelder 3A/DDR3 CTC 70/90 amp Stick/Tig Inverters in Parallel1 Lincoln MIG PAK 151 Oxy-Acet
Reply:Rough finish and I didnt whant to show it but:  Silvaloy, Helium and 150 cubic feet of practice  plus some broken Tungsten from dropping and wrong polarity.Last edited by Insaneride; 10-24-2012 at 12:51 AM.Reason: didnt whant to
Reply:Insaneride  -  You don't need an "argon tank badly". You need to ask the forum about branding irons, because they are not logos, but a disappearing metal art form.  You have E6011 on the back, you have Silalloy on the front,  and a Fafnirbearing race all around.Someone call the state military. In art-welding this mix would work, because it only has to stay together at room temperature. In branding practice, the Silalloy would not standing up to the 'required and repeated' heat before it needed a major face-lift,ie, the first heat . . . .You are building a logo, not a branding iron, so all of the 'how to weld'  questions and recommendations, apply only to general weld construction, and say nothing about brand design.Real brands require separation of elements, and graduated heat sinks, or the brand only blots and singes.Fellow Farm Compatriots, rise up with 'your self-made branding irons' and show the forum how you keep track of the beef America eats.Opus
Reply:Originally Posted by OPUS FERROInsaneride... the Silalloy would not standing up to the 'required and repeated' heat before it needed a major face-lift,ie, the first heat . . . .Opus
Reply:IR, I assume you're gonna remove the horizontal bar under the "A" so the "Omega" emblem will be correct? Like in your penciled image?DannyMy SiteJust worrying 'bout what I can't get to today.
Reply:Let's see...you used helium and silver solder and 6011 ... aren't you forgetting brazing rod, borax, 75/25, rosin flux, JB Weld, Gorilla Glue, Pop Rivets, mucilage, rubber cement, duct tape, sheet metal screws, upholstery thread and aluminum roof coating?Just kidding...it's just a funny combination of processes.Looks good ... keep it up.
Reply:Rick: Thank youOpus: I dont need an Argon tank I want one and I dont need another Budweiser I just want one too.  I didnt ask for advice because the last time I was beaten in the Gauntlet , I got some ill advice that was in the end, just plain wrong. I like constructive critisizm if an attempt to help is offered. Whats a Fafnir? Dont call a militia out on me7A749: uh never minddubl_t: Thanks, do I need to register to brand saddles? No plans to brand any living thing unless trees count. Maybee I should register.The_Blacksmith: Im cutting  halfway out so that it stays straight but wont appear in the brand. Its about 1/3 out now and I use it to tack to the weldingbinch. Forgot to take a pic of the bottom.Kelvin:  mucilage? Ive heard of that, if its like phleggum, then yes I used some6011 b'cause its the smallest rod I have, the SillyAlloy was a mistake as Oppus pointed out. I should have used fluxless 6011 . Thanks.Oppus, you SN gave me the idea of the iron in pic , use a smaller  Fafnfir race to make the lower case e. I would like to see other branding irons if someone has pics to share Attached ImagesLast edited by Insaneride; 10-25-2012 at 09:39 PM.Reason: Fafnfir
Reply:When branding cattle the irons need a relief at each intersection of each piece or the hide will blotch.When building irons I bevel the working edge to about 1/8", I use 3/8" flat bar. Each end of each section gets an 1/8" bevel, so each intersection has about 1/4" between the branding surface.This is the only pic I ever took of a branding iron, it was before it was cleaned up. He was a young, romantic fellow with about 20 cows Attached ImagesLeo
Reply:IR,nope, you don't "need" to register, but it might be in your best interest.  Maybe later you might want to use it as a trademark, like on your saddles, or who knows, maybe a herd of goats......Or, some kick-*** coonhounds!!  Get a second mtge on yur house to buy a pack of "proven" cat catchers, then, go out every night "hunting" while spending bazillions in trucks, sleds, tracking collars, vet bills, training, fuel, repairing vandalism caused by tree-huggers, and the future ex's lawyer payments......doesn't that sound like a good reason to register your brand?!!Lincoln SA 200Esab Caddy 160Thermal Arc 201TSMiller Dialarc HFI don't like making plans for the day because then the word "premeditated" gets thrown around the courtroom....
Reply:Originally Posted by dubl_tIR,nope, you don't "need" to register, but it might be in your best interest.  Maybe later you might want to use it as a trademark, like on your saddles, or who knows, maybe a herd of goats......Or, some kick-*** coonhounds!!  Get a second mtge on yur house to buy a pack of "proven" cat catchers, then, go out every night "hunting" while spending bazillions in trucks, sleds, tracking collars, vet bills, training, fuel, repairing vandalism caused by tree-huggers, and the future ex's lawyer payments......doesn't that sound like a good reason to register your brand?!!
Reply:Originally Posted by NVWWhen branding cattle the irons need a relief at each intersection of each piece or the hide will blotch.When building irons I bevel the working edge to about 1/8", I use 3/8" flat bar. Each end of each section gets an 1/8" bevel, so each intersection has about 1/4" between the branding surface.This is the only pic I ever took of a branding iron, it was before it was cleaned up. He was a young, romantic fellow with about 20 cows
Reply:InsanerideThank NVW; his recommendations applies to anything you would brand with heat.All of the sage information in my post [#4] is merely a reiteration of what filled myear, on delivery of my first attempt at a brand-iron.The assignment was a calf-brand.  They are much smaller, because the brand areagrows with the cow.In the west, occasionally you will see a cow with a brand that you can read at 80 mph.It was a calf that was branded with a steer brand, and the brand grew with the calf.  My first brand was 7-Bar-B [registered].  About three hours into it, I decided to turn it into a work  -  this was my first TIG project . . . .  It took a day and 1/2 to complete, and was a miserable failure.It was too detailed.  Upon 'counsel' from the user, the second generation took three hours to build, really crude, and worked as a brand should.Building on NVW:  if the elements touch - essentially a tee - you have mass, mass holds higher heat - and the middle ground [starting in the corner] will burn outward in the Y of the elements.  This is called blotting.All of your good work produces a melted Junior Mint.  This is why brands have a skeleton off the rod.  Each element is held in free-space, and gapped.The Elements  -  Heat Sinks.Bearing races are great for rounds.  The Old-Boy source for ready made tapered stock is to torch-strip the flanges from corresponding channel-iron.ISR  -  Fafnir is a good friend, so you are in good hands, and the state militia approvesyour work.Hope this helps  -  Opus
Reply:Im trying to get this but its OVER MY HEAD.
Reply:dubl_t, Im thru with hookers,lawyers and X's.  A good coonhound would be a welcomed friend
Reply:here's the branding iron that came with my grill, the previous owner custom ordered it as a one-off.Dynasty 200DXPassport plus w/ spoolmate 100victor 315c oxy/(act and prop)Miller digital elitemilwaukee power tools
Reply:That iron had 3'8" rod for the handle, I prefer 7/16" but use what is at hand.Leo
Reply:This is the letter e. A FAFNIR inner race using part of the left over outer race as part of the  inner part of the e . I think I understand about the blotching now. It needs to be like a stencil or as Oppus said, individual letters and as NVW said a relief at the joints I think. That means I wasted Helium trying to TIG Alpha/Omega w/ Silvaloy and now Im going to have to grind it all out. I made a relief in this e at the intersections. I guessed that the relief should be equal to the width of the material. The depth of the relief is also equal to  the thickness of the material in the e.Turk, thanks for sharing the Iron. Now I wanna see the BBQ'rdubl_T, your name sounds like it should be a brand. Could it be double bar T? Lots of variations. BTW, for the e, I used 6011 w/out flux as TIG filler and some stuf Ive had for over 20 years on my AO cart. It cleaned up real good.Oppus, you want a question? The last pic is of a chipping hammer/axe I made and it broke. DOM and Silvaloy w/ platen AXE head. It broke . Sillyaloy is weak and I tested it hard. What do you suggest?Thanks again everyone.BTW, does anyone know what the black handle in the first pic is? Its 3/8". Attached Images
Reply:The black piece looks like a de-horning iron, it burns the base of a calf's horn and it will stop growing. It is placed over the tip of the horn against the skull.Leo
Reply:this is the only pic I have on me, but for comparison that is a 6 foot door next to it Attached ImagesDynasty 200DXPassport plus w/ spoolmate 100victor 315c oxy/(act and prop)Miller digital elitemilwaukee power tools
Reply:NVW, thanks for that answer. It makes sense.turk, thats one big BBQr. Looks like you could fit a moose in there.
Reply:Hey Everyone.This site is of use to anyone who needs to brand any material. If you are looking for branding for any materials like wood, plastic etc, then follow the site. For professionals or hobbyists like me. It might not be exactly branding "iron" but its close and I'm sure it'll be of some use to you out there.Good LuckLast edited by 7A749; 09-13-2013 at 04:12 PM.Reason: Contains web link
Reply:Here is a pair of branding irons, one for cows and the other for steaks. In the second picture you can see the slots where the pieces cross. This keeps the heat from burning out the middle. It is made out of 3/8" cold rolled. Attached Images