Running BIG 7024's (Video)

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Goodafternoon, everyone!So, I was recently sent a handful of 7024's from WW member "Killdozer" (Thanks again man  ) And aside from the 1/8" electrodes that have shown up in a few videos, he also sent out a couple of "baseball bat" 3/16" electrodes...Annnd, I just had to try em' out I cranked up the Precision Tig, and used them on DCEP, DCEN, and A/C, on triple-fillet welds and a groove weld with a backing strip. Man was it awesome! They're thicker and longer than 1/8" rods, but aside from the amperage increase, and slightly more "awkwardness", they're the same concept. Anyway, I made a video about my adventures, and just thought I'd share it:[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ccs_rvrteE[/ame]Hope y'all enjoy it... Have a nice day, everyone! (Fun fact: Since posting this video on YouTube, someone else offered me a few 1/4" 7018's. I'll make a video about that in the near future)[Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:I was gonna say I could send ya some 1/4 7018,   but do you have a machine with enough amps to burn them?Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Hmmm I dunno, one way to find out I've got up to a 250 amp machine, that should do the trick.. The P/T is good for 230 of DC. I hope so! I dont really know where exactly you normally run those...But thanks man! If anything falls through, I'll let you know [Account Abandoned 8/8/16 Please Do Not Attempt Contact Or Expect A Reply]. See you on YouTube! -ChuckE2009
Reply:Originally Posted by soutthpawI was gonna say I could send ya some 1/4 7018,   but do you have a machine with enough amps to burn them?
Reply:Originally Posted by LanseHmmm I dunno, one way to find out I've got up to a 250 amp machine, that should do the trick.. The P/T is good for 230 of DC. I hope so! I dont really know where exactly you normally run those...But thanks man! If anything falls through, I'll let you know
Reply:Hello Lanse, if you would like to try something "interesting", get the rod going and then lay it down and let the stinger rest on the table without hanging onto it. A lot of the time it will continue to weld by itself. This is possible due to heavy flux coating on this particular rod, it essentially maintains it's own arc length in this manner. In the early days of bridge/structural/ship building they used these large types of electrodes for much of the heavy flat welding. You could literally get them going and then just rest and guide the welding rod where you wanted the weld deposit to be. Just a little something that I thought you might find of interest. Best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:For the excess flux issue, I keep a file nearby and scrap the rods of the file. It provides better and quicker restarts. Just make sure the file isn't grounded and the rods aren't in the stinger.
Reply:Cool vid Lanse! Years ago I worked in a fab shop where we did a lot of oddball build up on parts to be resurfaced. I would use 5/16 manganese rods from a company called Stultz. Man O Man you wanna see some smoke  The buildup was pretty intense as well. OSHA shut me down many of times. We all needed jobs, but I would smoke out the whole facility to the point where other employees would make a phone call because management couldn't care less. 30' ceilings in the building, and we would have a 15' to 20' layer of smoke cloud hovering down within a few hours. They never blamed me, but stuck it to the bosses good a few times. I would love it!  I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Cool!  I have some 3/16" 7024. I generally run them at 250 - 275A. Hot is how they're supposed to run- loads of fun! By the way, if you look at Lincoln's data for that rod, you will see that the preferred polarity is AC. Fillet welds over 200A DC tend to have problems with arc blow, especially at the end of the bead. Try that fillet again with AC, I'll bet you will have less spatter and undercut.JohnLast edited by Silicon-based; 06-06-2013 at 10:15 PM.Reason: Further infoA few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps
Reply:I have some 1/4 inch 6010 i can send out need to dig it out of storageMiller Xmt 350Lincoln Ln-25Ahp 200xSmith Gas Mixer AR/HTig is my Kung FuThrowing down dimes and weaving aboutInstagram http://instagram.com/[email protected]
Reply:Sorry , I edited just as you posted! AC, as I said in my edit. Like 7018s, the slag is harder to remove if the weld is too cold. Try 'em with a big AC welder if you have one available- you'll see why they list AC as the preferred setting.JohnA few weldersA lot of hammersA whole lot of C-clamps
Reply:Originally Posted by Silicon-basedSorry , I edited just as you posted! AC, as I said in my edit. Like 7018s, the slag is harder to remove if the weld is too cold. Try 'em with a big AC welder if you have one available- you'll see why they list AC as the preferred setting.John
Reply:Na. Lanse needs a real welder..   Miller 330ABP or a real inverter like a Powcon @ 375 or 400 amps. :thumbup:Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250