Yes another ATV trailer build thread

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After a year or so of research, I've finally started my atv trailer build.Tandem walking axles, possibly multi-body, tipping trailer. Five feet long and four feet wide,  and I've opted for a smaller tyre/wheel in four 18x8.50x8 with lawn type tread to hopefully save my lawn.I'll try and keep this up to date but apologies if I slip.......Oh and it's going behind a Sportsman 500So far just the tandem barsCheersJF Attached Images
Reply:Looking at that photo, I should mention the stubs. I'm using weld in stubs or spindles with one inch shafts, that fit inside 40x40x2.5 SHS or can be welded on direct.I've tried to find simple shafts and DOM tubing for the center pivots, without success but I'm actually happier going with bearings and hubs, I think they will be stronger and are serviceable at least. I'm using 1000kg stubs at the center and 500kg stubs at the wheels.JF
Reply:care to give some details on the cost of parts and where you're getting them? Also, it apears that the center stubs have two studs and two bolts is that currect?How far away from the beam will the hubs for the wheels sit? in otherwords, how long is the shaft that will mount into the beams for the wheels?As the tires are not powered you should see minimal impact from one tread design to the other on the trailer. Granted there will be some tearing force from turning, but it should be minimal. It's braking/acceleration forces that rip up grass and soil. Unless of corse you're flying through a corner causing the trailer to swing out excessively.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Originally Posted by ThorsHammercare to give some details on the cost of parts and where you're getting them? All my parts come from a trailer guy I've been using for some time, though esentially thay all come from a distributor caller Tyre Line, Bear in mind I'm in the UK! Also, it apears that the center stubs have two studs and two bolts is that currect?The beams are 75x50RHS and I pushed out two of the studs for longer bolts that go through the RHS, and the two remaining studs fix to 8mm tabs top and bottom. The RHS is tubed for the bolts. How far away from the beam will the hubs for the wheels sit? in otherwords, how long is the shaft that will mount into the beams for the wheels?The stubs are 200mm long from the back of the hub. The center axle is 40x40x2.5 SHS reinforced with 40x40x4 angle which the stubs fit inside at each end. The outer stubs are probably too long at 200mm with the smaller 8.50 wheels. As the tires are not powered you should see minimal impact from one tread design to the other on the trailer. Granted there will be some tearing force from turning, but it should be minimal. It's braking/acceleration forces that rip up grass and soil. Unless of corse you're flying through a corner causing the trailer to swing out excessively.
Reply:Couple of hours in the workshop tonight, got the sleeves welded in for the outer spindles and the center axle beefed up and spindles fitted. Attached Images
Reply:I've got the sub-frame finished and I'm ready to start on the chassis and body after a bit of head scratching. I can now see that it is going to be a bit awkward trying to turn it by hand but I'm really pleased with how it has progressed and it is exactly what I was trying to achieve. I'm also now adding a manual tipping ram and I've made up a safety hitch. Attached Images
Reply:lookin good.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Great job...keep it coming ...watching with great expectations....
Reply:Where are you getting the wheels, tire and hubs.I built a trailer last year. I wanted to go this route but the wheels,tires,hubs and high enough that it was hard to justify it. I still want to do it(I built the trailer so it's easy to "upgrade")BTW it looks great so far. Keep updating!
Reply:They are readily available here in the UK. 18-8.50x8 is a common tyre for the rear of most sit-on lawn mowers.I'm not sure if they will look too small when it is all done.............JF
Reply:I like what your doing.Thanks for sharing,and bring on the pictures.
Reply:I had a test run today with just the axles and a-frame and it was faultless. I purposely made a lot of tight turns on the lawn and the trailer tyres left no damage at all, which I think is more down to the tread pattern, The quad on the other hand..............I knocked up the a-frame this morning and clamped it to the axle for a test run. I'm not attaching the two permanently until the body is complete so I can get an idea of nose weight. I was very impressed with the way the tandem set-up handled the bumps at speed. Whilst the wheels are jumping around the a-frame remains steady.I started on the body tonight but I've an oak fire surround to make tomorrow so it will be a few days until I get back to it.The a-frame is made up of the remainder of the 75x50x3RHS from the tandem beams. It's probably over the top for the chassis legs but there is a ram to install to tip the bed, which I'm hopng to utilise without the tub as a log hauler, multi-mount esk..... Attached Images
Reply:The fire surround got thrown into the corner this morning and the welder came back out. I got the main tub frame finished and hinges made, just need to line them all up together.I was a bit dissapointed with the weight, it's up to 125kg with a wee bit more to add. I had tried from the begining not to over engineer it but I decided to add a tipping ram so beefed up a couple of sections. At least I'm confident it's not going bend easily.Next question is nose weight, and where to position the draw bar on the axle? How much is too much, bearing in mind my ATV is a polaris and the hitch is mounted above idependent suspension unlike my old Honda where the hitch is on the axle.JF Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by feenNext question is nose weight, and where to position the draw bar on the axle? How much is too much, bearing in mind my ATV is a polaris and the hitch is mounted above idependent suspension unlike my old Honda where the hitch is on the axle.JF
Reply:Originally Posted by feenNext question is nose weight, and where to position the draw bar on the axle? How much is too much, bearing in mind my ATV is a polaris and the hitch is mounted above idependent suspension unlike my old Honda where the hitch is on the axle.JF
Reply:Jealous. I want one.There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyIf you stop to think about the difference between a light person on the quad and a heavy person could be an easy hundred pounds. With that in mind I'd think that the tongue would start to get uncomfortable to lift before the amount of weight would be a real issue.
Reply:Originally Posted by feenCan you explain this, I'm sure you know what you mean yourself but I have no idea.I was aiming for a neutral nose weight however the ram and fluid tank are near the front of the a-frame which would probably mean the axle needs to be too near the front end.15-20kgs wouldn't be the end of the world would it??JF
Reply:I'm saying that you shouldn't have to worry too much about what effect the dry weight of the tongue has on the quad because it will get to be difficult to hook up or unhook for you before you reach that limit. Along those lines tho I'd think about 50 pounds is going to be max on what you would want to wrestle bending down and reaching under."The things that will destroy America are prosperity at any price, peace at any price, safety first instead of duty first, the love of soft living and the get rich quick theory of life." -Theodore Roosevelt
Reply:Hinges mocked up tonight. I now regret using angle for the bed rails, they will need a lot of stiffening where the hinges are mounted (you live and learn). So it now tips, it will achieve 55 degrees with 200mm clearance below the tail when fully raised. JF Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyI'm saying that you shouldn't have to worry too much about what effect the dry weight of the tongue has on the quad because it will get to be difficult to hook up or unhook for you before you reach that limit. Along those lines tho I'd think about 50 pounds is going to be max on what you would want to wrestle bending down and reaching under.
Reply:Originally Posted by BistineauI still don't see where your coming from as far as rider weight and tongue weight. The rider will be on the ATV not the trailer,rider weight has no effect on tongue weight. You can't go changing up trailer geometry just because a heavier rider is using the quad and trailer.
Reply:Who screwed up in design? We need to move on guys.JF
Reply:Originally Posted by feenWho screwed up in design? We need to move on guys.JF
Reply:How much does it weigh so far? I would LOVE to have something like that in Alaska to pull behind my PoPo 550 X2 for hunting season. I would just hate to get out there and stuck in muskeg because it weighs 900lbs. It does looks well built and 'bulletproof". Good job and keep up the pictures please!I love the smell of burning metal.Oh good, I needed to see how to build an ATV trailer.  I need one for Aug trip.Lincoln Electric MIG Pak 180 Wire Feed Welder- 230V; 30-180A
Reply:Originally Posted by BigHHow much does it weigh so far? I would LOVE to have something like that in Alaska to pull behind my PoPo 550 X2 for hunting season. I would just hate to get out there and stuck in muskeg because it weighs 900lbs. It does looks well built and 'bulletproof". Good job and keep up the pictures please!
Reply:Got the ram mounted up this morning and working.The chassis is clamped to the axle for now to let me decide on nose weight and departure angles etc. The nose weight is probably going to be around the 14kg mark which I don't think is too bad.Since bringing the hinge pivot in from the rear to aid the ram on the way up, unfortunately the tub isn't heavy enough to close the ram on the way down, or atleast not to begin with. I can live with it though.I got a fright when I was charged £28 to get the hose made up, it's all of 14 inches long and it was my own hose!!!!Should get the axle welded on today then out for field trials before welding it all up.JFp.s. The weight is the unfortunate factor, although unavoidable I think. It currently sits at 125kg with extension sides and finishing touches to add. I'd imagine it will come in around 175kg all in with sides, which will be removeable. I've beefed up some of the sections since deciding to fit the ram so it could be made lighter without tipping. Attached Images
Reply:"I now regret using angle for the bed rails, they will need a lot of stiffening where the hinges are mounted (you live and learn)."It looks like you just need to tie in some steel from the hinge piece to the one above it. Perhaps tall flat bar or heavy sheet? And perhaps a couple to each side of the bed wouldnt hurt either. Should be a  lot stiffer (even with the angle). Just a thought.Miller thunderbolt 250Decastar 135ERecovering tool-o-holic ESAB OAI have been interested or involved in Electrical, Fire Alarm, Auto, Marine, Welding, Electronics ETC to name a just a few. So YES you can own too many tools.
Reply:My brain storming buddy has just been round and he's talked me into welding 3mm sheet into the lower sides, just as above has mentioned. I was concerned about the weight but 3mm sheet against herringbone stiffeners plus plywood, there's not a lot in it. As long as the sheet doesn't go nuts when it gets galvanised!In hindsight, I should have had the sides formed from sheet, to include the top and bottom angles but you live and learn.JF
Reply:Tacked the axle on to the chassis on Monday morning and took it for field trials. I'm 95% happy with the end result, if anything it sits a little high at the nose when empty, but the springs on the Polaris are pretty soft and probably looks different even when I'm sitting on it.The axles work very well as a trade off for suspension, rather than the body jumping around it's just the wheels and the trailer remains fairly steady.The lowest point on the belly is the lower mount for the ram, however it  is very well protected and still higher than any point on the belly of the Polaris.I had an hour at it last night and finished the welding on the a-frame, adding stiffeners and capping the RHS. I've put too much effort and money into this so far not to get it galvanised (I live in Scotland!) so the components will all be dipped except the hub spindles.The tub needs stiffened and tabs for the ply added along with lashing points. I've now got the steel for the sides too so will make a start on those this weekend.JF Attached Images
Reply:I think we're moving further and further away from "another ATV trailer build" to "Awesome ATV trailer build" - good looking trailer!You mentioned the low point is the hydraulic pump. Without more photos it's hard to see exactly where this is, but would it be worth attaching a protective plate under the pump? I know you're trying to avoid more weight and I obviously don't know the hazards of the terrain you're navigating but it'd be a shame to break that expensive hose by hitting an odd rock or stump. Just a thought.Keep posting photos!
Reply:This is the mount for the cylinder as the a-frame sits upside down in the shop. The hole at the top is a drain and the lowest point on the trailer. The hand pump sits on the four lugs inside the a-frame legs and the hose, at about only 14 inches, runs through the 40x40 tubed hole in the cross member and into the top of the cylinder. Whilst nothing can directly strike either the pump, hose or cylinder, anything the mount slides over is effectively going to run up the cylinder also but it's 50x5 tube so should be able to take it.More progress tomorrow hopefully. The weather is piss wet here so the workshop is the only place to be JF Attached Images
Reply:Nevermind! I feel sorry for anything you run over with that thing. Good and strong, that's the way we like em!
Reply:Time for an update.All the welding is complete on the tub and chassis, and the Buffalo Board has been fitted as per the photos. Lower tail gate in and working as planned. Box ends have been capped and drain holes made for the hot dip galvanising.Got the kids next door to come and assemble everything this morning so I could take it out for road and field trials.Yet to add are a few tie down cleats, the removeable extension sides and upper tail gate. These will be 20x20x2 SHS skinned with pre-galvanised sheet or alluminium.There wasn't much came to light during the field testing. At the minute it doesnt have bump stops for the beams, the tyre simply hits the underside of the deck. I'll probably fit stops before it's finished.I'm going to weld collars around the ends of the axle tube where the stub slides in. I can see the hole becoming elongated with constant abuse and then the beams will be canted, the tyres leaning in and it will look old and tired.I've got two spring bolts to hold the tub shut but these will be mounted on rivnuts which will go in after galvanising. (holes drilled previously)The bare edges of the phenolic ply will be coated with resin before the final fit to keep the moisture out. These boards are pretty amazing, I have another trailer that often sits full of water and the ply board in the bottom is still as good as new.Pics 1-3 , the kids getting stuck in and pretty pleased with themselves at the end. Ewan said there was no way his 125 Grizzly would fit on it  Attached Images
Reply:next pics4, 12.5mm Buffalo Board bolted to the floor, sides and upper decks. 6mm stainless countersunk bolts all around. The sides got extra diagonal bracing which stiffened the whole frame and with the ply now bolted on it's even better.5, The lower tailgate opens either way for tipping or loading. It will also be hinged with the upper tailgate and the whole unit will open either way also.6, At full extension the ram pushes the tub to 52 degrees which should empty most things out.7, The additional bracing to the sides can be seen here, triangulating the crucial points such as the hinge pivot and the ram mount cross member.8, There is a captive 8mm nut on the inside corner of this hole which will clamp the tube insert from the extension sides. Attached Images
Reply:The field testing9, The track width of the trailer and atv are the same so in theory if I can get the ATV through the trailer should follow.......10, Traversing a small hole left by the forrester. You definitely need more momentum with the trailer on. I'll get it weighed when all done but you just need to choose your track and go for it.11, Trying to reverse out of the same hole and this happened. I purposely cut the end of the beams at 45 degrees to help slide over obstacles exactly like this however it still caught the stump.12, Without the bump stops, the tyre just hits the deck which I'm not so keen on. Perhaps if the axle couldn't travel as far it may have gotten over the stump. It drove out forwards in the end.13, Doing what it says on the tin  Attached Images
Reply:Last of the pics for now14, Good departure angle at the rear, climbing out of a bomb hole without catching the tail.15, Back down the same hole, again without catching the rear end. I'm glad I kept the chassis legs shorter and the tub hinge inboard toward the front. 16, I felt this stump under the ATV but plenty of room under the trailer.17, Atleast once it was passed the lower ram mount. Which never flinched. Notice where the squirrel's been sat stripping pine cones.18, The final climb back out of the woods. I had to stop for the dog half way up and couldn't get going again. It cruised up on the second attempt however without issue.That's all folks, until next timeJF Attached Images
Reply:Very nice indeed!
Reply:I started fabbing the extension sides tonight, also noticed one of the wheels is leaning in. I had my suspicions earlier about one of them. I'll have to cut the socket out and do it again. It's a pain in the *** but it will catch my eye every time I use it if I don't. It's the front right in the photo although you can't tell from the angle.All the bestJF Attached Images
Reply:nice work what is the load capacity ?Lincoln Power Arc 4000 Thermal Arc Fabricator 252 iThermal arc 186Thermal Arc 26 tigTweeko 200 amp spool gunHobart AirForce 400WP-17V-12R
Reply:The center hubs are rated to 500kg and the outers about 350kg.JF
Reply:I've finally finished adding bits to it. Once I go over the missing welds, the fabrication is complete and ready for prep before galvanising.It's going to an agricultural show in two weeks  so the race is now on to get it ready in time.JF Attached Images
Reply:Nicely done. What color are you going to paint it?
Reply:2 things: What is buffalo board and you mentioned rust .. You dont have rust where you are do you ?? ha ha  Also we can see you have not been babying this unit. nice workLast edited by dumb as a stump; 07-15-2012 at 12:00 AM.Reason: bad speelingMiller thunderbolt 250Decastar 135ERecovering tool-o-holic ESAB OAI have been interested or involved in Electrical, Fire Alarm, Auto, Marine, Welding, Electronics ETC to name a just a few. So YES you can own too many tools.
Reply:The trailer will be galvanised and left as is so silver eventually turning to grey.http://www.advancedtechnicalpanels.c...-birch-plywoodAnd don't talk to me about rust....All the bestJF
Reply:ok, now get it fully loaded down and see how she does. Looks great. I think you need a logo on the side "who needs roads?"There are no problems. There are only solutions. It's your duty to determine the right one.Hobart Handler 210Airco 225 Amp MSM Stinger
Reply:Feen,Where did you get the hand pump and cylinder from.  I like that.  Very nice trailor.  I would like to build one for the garden and highway uses.
Reply:I like it,I like it very much,thats gonna be My next build. Thanks for sharing.
Reply:Originally Posted by carFeen,Where did you get the hand pump and cylinder from.  I like that.  Very nice trailor.  I would like to build one for the garden and highway uses.