Bought a Wire Feeder

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So I finally did it, after a few years of searching and some help from some forum members I decided on a Miller 22A feeder.  Bought it off ebay, seller said it had been tested and works.  When it arrived it was missing one of the drive rollers.  Not a big deal, the seller said it must have been misplaced and would credit me $50.  So I then proceed to connect it to my power source so I can check the motor.  First thing I noticed was on higher speed settings, the motor starts off a bit slow then speeds up to operating speed right away.... not sure if that is normal or not.  Seems like it could be part of the design to help prevent slippage on the wire?  Second thing I noticed was the tensioner rocking up and down a bit.  Is this normal?  I have a feeling it's a bent shaft on the motor. Should I send this thing back or see if they will give me credit towards a new motor?  It looks practically brand new and it was a fair price for one in working condition.  Here's a link to a video I took of the rollers...
Reply:The movement of the tensioner/idler carrier gear assembly is perfectly normal. They all have a little movement in them, some more than others depending on wear. That is very minimal, and likely came that way from the factory. I certainly wouldn't worry about it.As far as the start motor speed, it can be adjusted as described below in the manual. It was possibly set the way you got it from the factory, I would set it up with wire and weld with it first, before adjusting the potentiometer on the control board. If you do choose to adjust it, carefully remove the white plastic cap over the screw head and use a small flat head screwdriver to make the adjustment. It doesn't necessarily have to be a non-conductive screwdriver as stated in the manual, just make sure you don't have any static electricity buildup on you when you touch the board. Touch a metal surface first, or you can order one of those static bracelets off eBay. I wouldn't sweat it.Try it out first. It may be just right for you and not need adjustment at all. Older 50 A feeders had a Slow/Fast start switch which was a limited version of what you have here. Depending on the wire or process, the motor could be set to lag for just a moment before fully coming up to feed speed. I really wouldn't mess with it unless you're still having burnback problems after getting your settings correct for feed and voltage output.Good luck with it. Attached ImagesExpert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:Hello summiteer, as Steve said, that particular movement is very common with the S22 A's and a lot of other feeders. Something as simple as some dirt/dust in the gears of the assemblies can result in the "bobbing" that you see in the tensioning spring. Once you have the drive rollers installed you may very well see the majority of that motion go away as the engagement depth of the gears is much less and the rollers will run against one another or with the wire on the rollers will be spaced apart slightly due to the thickness of the wire. This is where it is important to use the correct rollers for a given wire type and also match the roller size to the wire size, in other words don't use .035 rollers for .045 wire or attempt to use .045 rollers for .035 wire and things of that nature. Read the information on drive rollers that Miller has available and heed to their recommendations, you'll get the best results in that way. You will like this feeder on that Thermal Arc machine that you have, that is if I remember correctly. Good luck and best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:I was gonna mention the addition of drive rolls and wire making the movement go away. Thanks for covering that Allan.Correct me if I am mistaken, but I believe the slow start would apply to larger diameter and or flux core wires needing extended stick out so the wire isn't jamming into the puddle "cold". Looks as it's giving it a brief millisecond to heat up before pouring it on full blast.That was my understanding of it anyways.Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:Cool! That's really good news, I was pretty worried that wasn't normal.  I think once I get some drive rollers I'll test it out and will probably just leave the slow start set as is from the factory.  I'm just a hobby welder and won't be able to tell the difference anyway.  As for roller sizes, all i can find are the 035 and 045's guess if I want to run the 024 and 030 size wires it'll have to be pushed through with the 035 roller.  Kinda surprised they don't offer the smaller sizes unless I'm just missing them.It is going on the Thermal Arc, can't wait to get it going and start some projects with it again.  Hope it works as good with the 22a as it did with the ln25... Should be just as good or better I would think.
Reply:Yeah Steve, I believe that's a great explanation. I don't recall reading any information on those feeders spelling it out in so many words, but maybe that's because I generally don't read the manual until I have exhausted most all of the trial and error methods! Summiteer, there are a large variety of feed rollers for that feeder and part of the beauty of most of Miller's equipment is the interchangeability and widespread use of the same rollers on the majority of their equipment. On the small end .023(.023 is the odd-ball, you may find .023 wire, .024, and .025 wire that will only require the .023 rollers) is probably how those are listed, then .030, .035, .045, .052, 1/16, and so on. They also have U-groove rollers, V-groove rollers, and Serrated-groove rollers. All of these various types of rollers apply to the different types of wires that can be fed through the feeder. I would try to spell out their various uses for you now, but I get confused a lot of the time so I'll just suggest that you go with Miller's information on them. I will say though that if you use an undersized feed roller on a larger diameter wire you can end up shaving the wire and having these shavings plug up the liner and cause other issues with mis-feeding. Similarly, if you attempt to run smaller size wires in larger feed rollers you will generally not have correct engagement of the wire to the rolls and also have mis-feeding and slippage occur. Do a bit more research and determine what type(s) of wires you will be using and try to outfit yourself properly to feed them. Good luck and best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:You can also get combination size rollers. They have 2 different size grooves, the side that is marked to the size you want goes to the outside. They make s .030-.035 combo and a .035- .045 combo.
Reply:Slow wire run in is GREAT! Have you ever looked at production welded items and seen a bunch of MIG wire still stuck on them? Slow wire run it gives a millisecond for the arc to establish before you have a whole bunch of wire coming out at 100 mph. If it doesn't ground right or there's a bit of dirt, you can have a mess. It helps prevent cold starts too. I had it on my S-54 deluxe feeder and Lincoln WireMatic 255. It makes starting welds so much nicer.
Reply:I found some rollers at the welding store, they have the v-grove rollers (solid wire) that range from 023 to 1/16 and some knurled rollers (flux cored wire) that start at 035 and go up from there.  My original plan was to get 023 and 030 in v-grove and knurled and change the liner of the gun to 030.  That would still work if I never needed to run flux.  Right now my "shop" is an open garage so I do use flux every once in awhile.  Since the only option for flux is 035 I would have to swap liners every time I need to swap wire types.  Is this a normal practice and easy enough to do or am I just being hard to please?Another option... I've only used 023 and 030 so that's what I'm comfortable with. 99% of my welding has been 030.  Would I notice much of a difference if I just started using 035 instead of 030.  This way I could keep an 035 liner in the gun 99% of the time, have a 035 V-groove and knurled rollers for breezy days and then a separate liner and v-groove roller for the 023.  That seems like the best setup I'm just not sure if 035 is too thick or if it'll make much of a difference.  Typically I weld with 1/8" to 1/2" steel.
Reply:I just ran some 0.25 wire through the same liner that I use for 0.35 and 0.45 . It probably will work since they are close in size . I would try it if it bothers then you can change liners. If not your good to go.
Reply:Smaller diameter wires can be pretty fickle. It just depends. Long guns with .023" don't work very well, at least in my experience. You also want to have just enough drag on the spool that holds the wire to keep it from free spinning when the drives stop feeding. You may be able to get away with a larger liner for small wire, you would just have to try and see.I can't get .023" to feed for the life of me thru a larger gun, I've had to use a small, dedicated gun for it. I've screwed with drag, tension pressure, etc. That small wire is quite fragile and will bird nest easily. I just got a small Miller knockoff gun for .023". Gonna see how it works. It was only $55 delivered so I can't complain.Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:Damn iPad. Accidently closed the thread.Sorry Expert Garage Hack....https://www.facebook.com/steven.webber.948
Reply:I wondered what in the world would have caused you to close this thread even before I opened it up to check for updates..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:I don't see the need for .023 wire unless you do a lot of sheet metal. I use .035 for everything and have welded down to 18 ga. There are times I would like a smaller gun on the 252 but I am too lazy to change itMillermatic 252millermatic 175miller 300 Thunderboltlincoln ranger 250smith torcheslots of bfh'sIf it dont fit get a bigger hammer
Reply:Originally Posted by DSW I wondered what in the world would have caused you to close this thread even before I opened it up to check for updates.
Reply:Originally Posted by farmshopI don't see the need for .023 wire unless you do a lot of sheet metal. I use .035 for everything and have welded down to 18 ga. There are times I would like a smaller gun on the 252 but I am too lazy to change it
Reply:Reading through your responses and thinking about 023 trying to push through 15' of liner I think I may have just answered my own question. The third option... I do have a lot of body work to do on the land cruiser coming up so the 023 will be needed for that.  I do happen to have a goweld that works great as a spool gun, so whenever I need that thin wire I'll just use the goweld.  I haven't had to use it in so long I completely forgot that was even an option.  The best solution for thin sheet would probably be to use the tig function on that thermal arc but I don't know anything about that, can't be too much different than oxy/acetylene welding
Reply:My 12vs feeder calls the slow start "soft start" and it's great. If I was you I'd be running the 035 wire with an 035 liner and just swap drive rollers back and forth for solid or cored wire. I wouldn't worry too much about the liner sizes the may not make a different liner for each size they are often for a range of wire sizes .Last edited by Firemanmike69; 01-28-2015 at 10:21 PM.Reason: You typed a response as I was typing
Reply:Farmshop, thanks for the input, it's good to know that 035 wire has some versatility when it comes to material thicknesses.  I think I'll just get the two different rollers for 035 and be done with it.  The liner in the gun right now is for 035-045 I believe.  Again, thanks for all the help guys! Very helpful forum!
Reply:Originally Posted by Firemanmike69My 12vs feeder calls the slow start "soft start" and it's great. If I was you I'd be running the 035 wire with an 035 liner and just swap drive rollers back and forth for solid or cored wire. I wouldn't worry too much about the liner sizes the may not make a different liner for each size they are often for a range of wire sizes .
Reply:I have had a 22a for 7years never gave me a bit of trouble. I take it apart once in a while and scotchbrite everything I can get to.  I also like to put copper neverseeze on the gears.  Runs sweet!
Reply:If you are going to use the 10lb. spools you will need to make a spacer out of PVC pipe.  I am not home to get a picture but you will figure it out when you try to put a smaller spool where a large spool goes.I also have a 22A and it works great.Dan D.Manipulator Of Metal
Reply:Running .030 in an. .035/.045 liner isn't too bad. .023 wire is where you might have problems.
Reply:Originally Posted by Welder DaveRunning .030 in an. .035/.045 liner isn't too bad. .023 wire is where you might have problems.
Reply:Originally Posted by Welder DaveRunning .030 in an. .035/.045 liner isn't too bad. .023 wire is where you might have problems.Originally Posted by SummiteerI found some rollers at the welding store, they have the v-grove rollers (solid wire) that range from 023 to 1/16 and some knurled rollers (flux cored wire) that start at 035 and go up from there.  My original plan was to get 023 and 030 in v-grove and knurled and change the liner of the gun to 030.  That would still work if I never needed to run flux.  Right now my "shop" is an open garage so I do use flux every once in awhile.  Since the only option for flux is 035 I would have to swap liners every time I need to swap wire types.  Is this a normal practice and easy enough to do or am I just being hard to please?Another option... I've only used 023 and 030 so that's what I'm comfortable with. 99% of my welding has been 030.  Would I notice much of a difference if I just started using 035 instead of 030.  This way I could keep an 035 liner in the gun 99% of the time, have a 035 V-groove and knurled rollers for breezy days and then a separate liner and v-groove roller for the 023.  That seems like the best setup I'm just not sure if 035 is too thick or if it'll make much of a difference.  Typically I weld with 1/8" to 1/2" steel.