Chem Sharp - what am I doing wrong?

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Just got my LE Tig185 up and running, and now I'm practicing my welds. It's been hilarious so far to say the least! Anyhow I bought some chem sharp but I can't make it work.  I can't short my tungsten like the directions say, due to the lift arc on my machine, so I have been using scraps and striking an arc to get the tungsten glowing and then dip into the C.S.- it comes out nasty and clumpy every time.  I'm about t  h  i  s far from just getting a grinder.Last edited by bubbletron; 04-17-2008 at 01:21 AM.
Reply:I dont know anything about chemically sharpening a tungsten, but from what you're describing, a grinder does sound easier, simpler, less messy to use and probly safer than a liquid chemical.  You'll end up needing a bench grinder for many other things anyways, so you wont go wrong buying one.Your machine doesn't have a control to switch between scratch and lift start modes?MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:I tried it,  Get the grinder   Chuck them in a cordless drill.  Enjoy the new machine.DavidLast edited by David R; 04-17-2008 at 06:39 AM.
Reply:I use Chem-Sharp almost on a daily basis. The one thing I see from people who have not used it much... They dip way too far into the bottle!I loosen the back cap and extend the tungsten slightly. Once your tungsten is glowing, slowly dip in about 1/4", lift and slowly dip again. Shouldn't take more than 2 to 3 dips and your tungsten should be ready. Of course more contamination will require more conditioning. Much like the GTAW process itself this may take a little practice to get the results you want.You can take a fresh tungsten and put any tip you want on it. Dipping too quickly usually results in dipping too far down in the bottle, resulting in a needle tip. Slow down and stay shallow. I also use a small kitchen/bar strainer maybe once a week to remove the larger clumps left after using the Chem-Sharp and at $7.00 a bottle (depending on use) replace it every month or two.I am going to make a statement here that some may/will not agree with... Depending on your skill set and comfort level (And I can ONLY speak for myself) I have not ground a tungsten in years. While I had a green wheel on a bench grinder reserved especially for this process I removed it and now only use Chem-Sharp as I found this WAY more convenient and a real timesaver. I can quick dip and have a "fresh" tip right at my table in far less time than removing the tungsten, walking over to the grinder and conditioning the tip, stopping for a cup of coffee, loosing focus and having to get restarted on the project.I will point out, I am nearing 60, my eyesite is not what it used to be, my hands may not be as steady and my bottle of Chem-Sharp is a blessing!
Reply:Thanks for the replies- I will give it another shot. DDCGuy- when you chem-sharp is the tip or the majority of the tungsten glowing? I just feel like I am not getting it hot enough.
Reply:Yes, my tungsten is extremely hot just before I dip it...The gentleman who introduced me to Chem-Sharp also demonstrated his procedure. He switched polarity from DCEN to AC, held the tungsten just above his bench plate and using his pedal brought the tungsten up VERY hot, did the double dip procedure and reset his machine...My machine has a balance (dig) control that allows me to bias how much negative vs positive I am running my torch at. Rather than switching the polarity from DCEN to AC then back to DCEN I simply dial in much more positive, get the tungsten glowing, dip, dip and dial the balance back to my preference...For me it is just easier to dial the machine where I would have to break position to change polarity.Also avoids "The Senior Moment" when you realize you forgot to switch from AC back to DCEN!
Reply:Originally Posted by DDCGuyShouldn't take more than 2 to 3 dips and your tungsten should be ready.
Reply:Originally Posted by DDCGuyMy machine has a balance (dig) control that allows me to bias how much negative vs positive I am running my torch at. Rather than switching the polarity from DCEN to AC then back to DCEN I simply dial in much more positive, get the tungsten glowing, dip, dip and dial the balance back to my preference...For me it is just easier to dial the machine where I would have to break position to change polarity.
Reply:The main problem is the fact that you are using it in the first place..Get a grinder and get it over with.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:Originally Posted by DDCGuyI use Chem-Sharp almost on a daily basis. The one thing I see from people who have not used it much... They dip way too far into the bottle!I loosen the back cap and extend the tungsten slightly. Once your tungsten is glowing, slowly dip in about 1/4", lift and slowly dip again. Shouldn't take more than 2 to 3 dips and your tungsten should be ready. Of course more contamination will require more conditioning. Much like the GTAW process itself this may take a little practice to get the results you want.You can take a fresh tungsten and put any tip you want on it. Dipping too quickly usually results in dipping too far down in the bottle, resulting in a needle tip. Slow down and stay shallow. I also use a small kitchen/bar strainer maybe once a week to remove the larger clumps left after using the Chem-Sharp and at $7.00 a bottle (depending on use) replace it every month or two.I am going to make a statement here that some may/will not agree with... Depending on your skill set and comfort level (And I can ONLY speak for myself) I have not ground a tungsten in years. While I had a green wheel on a bench grinder reserved especially for this process I removed it and now only use Chem-Sharp as I found this WAY more convenient and a real timesaver. I can quick dip and have a "fresh" tip right at my table in far less time than removing the tungsten, walking over to the grinder and conditioning the tip, stopping for a cup of coffee, loosing focus and having to get restarted on the project.I will point out, I am nearing 60, my eyesite is not what it used to be, my hands may not be as steady and my bottle of Chem-Sharp is a blessing!
Reply:I have a can of this stuff, and a NEW tig welder coming in any day.  I will give it another shot and report here with pics and all.David
Reply:I didn't get a chance to try it again this weekend (went and watched Rally cars tear it up) but will try and get the tungsten really hot in AC.
Reply:I have a jar of it and it works but I prefer sharpening the tungsten on a grinder.
Reply:I still haven't seen anybody post up pics of a tungsten sharpened with this stuff.  I'd love to see a comparison.
Reply:At one time I purchased a jar of that stuff and when I read the directions I found it was faster to sharpen on my dedicated belt sander.  I can resharpen a tungsten in uner 10 seconds usually.No messing around around with the settings on the welder and then forgetting and screwing up your project.Build a Barstool Racer at BarFlyRacers.com!
Reply:At work the grinder is 6 feet from my bench, I sharpen up 10 tungstens at a time to save the 60' of walking, they take about 5-10 seconds each.SqWave 200Millermatic 190Airco 200 ACHypertherm PM45Boice-Crane Band SawVictor O/A