Flatbed for dodge 1 ton

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Well I've got a big chunk of the fab work done for my flatbed. I need to finish the headache rack, add gusseting and find underbody boxes, make brackets from it or them and think of a bumper/step setup for the rear. After 3 days of work on this I need a break from it so I don't get tired of it. Any idea's, pointers or concerns would be much help as this it my first flatbed.Curious what other people have done for prep/paint. This is the first time I have really had to deal with mill scale and from what research I have done it's sounding best to blast it off. Since I haven't done this before is it something I could do in a reasonable amount of time with my 45 lb blaster or should I pay a blasting shop to do it or rent a bigger blaster. I've got a huge compressor so air isn't a concern.On the paint front I'm really on the fence. Rustoleum rattle can, 2 part polyurethane, epoxy or powder? curious what other people have used and how it standing the test of time. Really the paint won't get any abuse since the top of the perimeter C-4 is going to be topped with an extruded AL cargo track system.
Reply:Looks good!As far as paint/coating goes myself I would undercoat it..Keep the pics coming!...zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I like it, looking good brother!  I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:2 part polyurethane, epoxy. does look good  what state you in ? rust belt maybe send to plating company zinc ?
Reply:Line-X.... did it to my headache rack and that stuff is awesome!
Reply:Looks good!! If you haven't thought of it and you are using wood for the floor you may want to add some flat strips or angles to the 45 deg. corners to carry the ends of the boards. If you let them hang they will eventually break off. I've tried lots of different paints and prep methods and never found any that worked great. Blasting with good paint was best. Never tried undercoating and that sounds like a good idea.
Reply:Looks good. Only concern I have is the clearance for the suspension travel, doesn't look like enough but it could be an optical illusion. When I've made a deck I usually space the bunks so they're on either side of the tire, that allows a few more inches travel...Mike
Reply:If it was up to ME, I would use the Rustoleum for heavy rusted metal, even though this is not rusted it will work well. Ditch the idea of rattle cans though and get it in the gallon containers. That way you can brush it on, or thin it and use it in a spray gun. It would take way too many rattle cans to cover that for the money. The gallons cans come out better and cheaper for the coverage. Use two good coats, then paint two good coats of Rustoleum paint over that, should be good for many years if done right. Looks like you did a fine job on the fabrication/build. I wanna see the end result, and find out what you decide for the coating system, too.
Reply:I'm far from being a pro, so don't take this the wrong way.  Just wondering why you put the C channel facing outward?  Wouldn't it be stronger by placing the cross members between the C?
Reply:Kevin you might look into some industrial grade Rustoleum or some good tractor paint like van sickle or valspar it won't be cheap but it will be worth it . nice bed keep the pics coming . Chris
Reply:Originally Posted by dellwasI'm far from being a pro, so don't take this the wrong way.  Just wondering why you put the C channel facing outward?  Wouldn't it be stronger by placing the cross members between the C?
Reply:Thanks for the explanation... Originally Posted by BistineauWith as many cross members as he has, if he loaded only between the frame and the outer edge on both sides, the truck would be overloaded weight wise before the bed would be in danger of collapse. That is, given that the welds are properly made at each point. I like the way you have the corners angled on this bed, especially to the front.
Reply:It looks good, but how heavy is it? How much load capacity will be left for cargo on that 1 ton truck with a bed made this heavy?CharleyMiller MM252Miller Bobcat 225NTMiller DialArc HF / DIY Cooler2 Victor O/A TorchsetsMilwaukee 8" Metal SawMilwaukee Dry Cut "Chop" Saw 5 Ton Wallace Gantry Various Grinders, Benders, etc.
Reply:If you want a good paint job have it blasted, don't screw around trying to do it yourself, send it to a commercial blaster.   You get what you pay for in paint. 2 part paints are very good but they are expensive.  On something like this, I would probably get some hardener, such as Valspar Renew and mix with some rustoleum or valspar (the valspar you get at tractor supply or a big box store, not the commercial lines)   This does make some fairly crappy paint into pretty durable paint.
Reply:When I built this flatbed I used automotive paint. But I also used DP-40 primer. I sprayed the inside of my dump trailer with the black version of DP-40. That stuff is tough as nails!  Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Don't us Vansickle paint.  The pigment they use is super cheap, it will fade really fast.  If you don't want to go automotive grade paint, then at least get some good industrial paint like Benjamin Moore.Miller 250x & Lincoln V205-TSmith Oxy-Prop torch
Reply:another strictly ameture build that has everybody drooling.. ha!
Reply:2 part coal tar epoxy(bridge paint). Warm it and brush it on. Google is your friend(in this case). I used galv siloh rings for tanks at my fish farm. I lined them with it.Lasts forever. Attached ImagesBubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Very nice work. Built one back in the 70's bring back memories.. Wish I had pictures of it to post.. Thanks for sharing.
Reply:Zinc electroplated + Linex bed liner = never gonna rust.Lincoln Power Mig 216Lincoln AC/DC-225/125Miller  625 X-Treme PlasmaMiller 211 Forney 95FI-A 301HF 91110Victor Journeyman O/PMilwaukee DaytonMakita  Baileigh NRA Life Member
Reply:I had my gooseneck adapter sprayed with Line-X. I understand Line-X's industrial version is really tough. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPI had my gooseneck adapter sprayed with Line-X. I understand Line-X's industrial version is really tough.
Reply:Originally Posted by Bigrich954rr2 part polyurethane, epoxy. does look good  what state you in ? rust belt maybe send to plating company zinc ?
Reply:Originally Posted by welderjLooks good!! If you haven't thought of it and you are using wood for the floor you may want to add some flat strips or angles to the 45 deg. corners to carry the ends of the boards. If you let them hang they will eventually break off. I've tried lots of different paints and prep methods and never found any that worked great. Blasting with good paint was best. Never tried undercoating and that sounds like a good idea.
Reply:Originally Posted by mrmikeyLooks good. Only concern I have is the clearance for the suspension travel, doesn't look like enough but it could be an optical illusion. When I've made a deck I usually space the bunks so they're on either side of the tire, that allows a few more inches travel...MikeThanks for the idea's. I have a blaster I have been using for work stuff and he said $250 of less so I think it's worth it. Painting came back at $600 so I will do that myself. don't know with what yet.
Reply:Originally Posted by dellwasI'm far from being a pro, so don't take this the wrong way.  Just wondering why you put the C channel facing outward?  Wouldn't it be stronger by placing the cross members between the C?
Reply:Originally Posted by CharleyLIt looks good, but how heavy is it? How much load capacity will be left for cargo on that 1 ton truck with a bed made this heavy?Charley
Reply:Originally Posted by dbl612another strictly ameture build that has everybody drooling.. ha!
Reply:Thanks! Originally Posted by -KevinInward facing C let's you use standard flat hook straps but recessed light are a must. outward facing c lets you use surface mounts lights but straps need to be D ring type with grab hooks or something else.