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http://www.pipemastertools.com/these seem like a really great idea but what sorta tool would you use to make the cut after youve marked it out?im assuming a grinder but thatwould be pretty awkward wouldnt it?http://datingsidorsingel.com/
Reply:Hello cheeseclip, I typically find that my choices for notching/coping depend a lot on size of pipe/tube, wall thickness/schedule, material type (stainless, aluminum, steel, etc.) On larger thinwall pipes I might use a porta-band and simply follow the lines only going deep enough to penetrate the wall and then moving along and following the line. This could be used on steel, stainless steel and aluminum applications. On thicker wall, steel applications I might use an oxy-fuel cutting torch and grind to the line afterwards. In some instances I might insert an internal backing to limit a lot of the inside spatter from the dross. In other instances I might use the plasma cutter, this might be for steel applications or stainless steel applications, similarly I might use an internal sleeve to help to limit the inner spatter issues from the dross. Thin blades on grinders or die grinders can be an option as you deem fit. They can also be somewhat dangerous in many instances. Many times you may find using a combination of these various choices to serve your purposes best. Just some additional thoughts to consider. Best regards, Allanaevald
Reply:Originally Posted by cheesecliphttp://www.pipemastertools.com/these seem like a really great idea but what sorta tool would you use to make the cut after youve marked it out?
Reply:I'd always take it close with a cutoff wheel, then use a tiger paw (flap disk) to get it exact.
Reply:if you go to website SNiP ( sawing notch in pipe) you get a neat way to "notch" pipe by a making 2 straight cuts.. great for a portaband or band saw,,depends on how perfect a fitup you want but definitely worth trying...
Reply:my jd notcher is realy HD for $300.00 Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by ed macmy jd notcher is realy HD for $300.00 |
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