Porta Band, or Dry cut saw

admin

I need a saw for portable work. I need something light (under 50lbs) that is fairly small and easy to carry around. Also it needs to be fairly cheap (~$400). I will be using it to cut mainly sq. tubing (2" & 3"),  some round tubing (1"-2") and a little pipe (2-3/8"). I have an in shop band saw, a wet cold saw, and a chop saw.What I am wanting is either a dry cut saw (Makita or Milwaukee) or a portable band saw (Milwaukee).I was wondering if there were any advantages to either one. I know the blades are failr costly on the dry cut saws, and the band saw blades are cheap. Also, doesnt the dry cut saw, cut way faster than the band saws. I hate using my shop band saw (too slow). Thats why I bought a cold saw.ThanksRyan
Reply:I have two poratabands that are practiacaly brand new.   they work OK for modifying existing installed handrails other than that i would much rather use a dry cut chop saw in the field.Vantage 500's LN-25's, VI-400's, cobramatics, Miller migs, synch 350 LX, Powcon inverters, XMT's, 250 Ton Acurrpress 12' brake, 1/4" 10' Atlantic shear,Koikie plasma table W/ esab plasmas. marvel & hyd-mech saws, pirrana & metal muncher punches.
Reply:Sawzall.......And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:sounds like you are knowledgable enough to decide.. my vote is portaband because i hate the noise and dirt chop saws make.after that a sawzall. chop saw probably never.
Reply:Really comes down to whether you can bring the work to the saw or you have to take the saw to the work.Dry cut saw will be faster and give a truer cut (90, 45, etc) but involves being able to "clamp up" the work.Portaband, is great for cutting off a pipe, angle, etc on site.  Good for notching, whereas the dry cut saw has problems with this.  As far as versatility, I'd have to go with the portaband.Different saws, different results.  I have both and use them about equally.Had a job come in last week.  Involved SS baskets about 4' in dia. (used for pasturizing crabmeat).  Formed by rolling 1" square tube (1/8"wall) into a circle.  Had about six tabs (1"x2"x1/4") welded around the perimeter.  Tabs were hanging up going into the steamer.  Needed to be removed.  Pulled out the ol portaband and 15 min later, no tabs on either basket.  Easiest $100 I made all week (owner set the price-would have done it for free as I do a fair amount of work for him)Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:All of this sq tube that I need to cut (roughly 900 cuts) will be able to be clamped in the vise. On second thought I will need to cut about 120 tops off of fence posts. I can see both saws being handy.
Reply:Yepper,Me too.I've got the Porter Cable dry cut saw, but if I was buying today, I'd go with the Milwaukee.  Nice base and heavy duty vice.Milwaukee has a new portaband saw out.  Variable speed and a little more power than earlier models.  Got one.  Like it a lot.  I use the bi-metal 10-14 TPI blades most of the time.Two fine metal mangling machines.  (Just kidding about the mangling)Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Since I don't own a dry cut chop saw or a portaband, my choice is the Milwaukee 14" abrasive chop saw for the tube cuts and the Sawzall with bi-metal blade for cutting the post tops off, since I always have those saws on the truck.   Though not the safest of methods, the 9" angle grinder with gaurd removed and a worn down abrasive chop saw blade also works good for cutting off post tops. I suppose if I had alot more money to spend on saws, a 14" dry cut chop saw and a Portaband would both be very nice to have on the truck.  I see alot of electrical contractors using portable band saws for cutting conduit to size while on the building.I think the next saw I'm going to buy though is one of those 7-1/4"  metal-cutting circular saws with carbide blade.  Seems like a handy tool to have on the truck.  I carry a regular 7-1/4" circular saw for cutting wood anyways, so I could just replace it with the metal cutting one and get more use out of the tool.  Evolution makes a multi-purpose wood/metal blade that works good for  both.  I  use them on the Evolution metal cutting compound miter saw  in the shop when I need to make an accurate miter cut.Another saw that I've been thinking about is one of those 12" or 14" portable cut-off saws.  They're like a 14" abrasive chop saw but without the base and with 2 handles for freehand use.   Kinda like a concrete saw.   I've seen them in gas and electric.  They're quite expensive though.Last edited by DesertRider33; 08-28-2009 at 08:33 PM.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Originally Posted by DesertRider33I think the next saw I'm going to buy though is one of those 7-1/4"  metal-cutting circular saws with carbide blade.  Seems like a handy tool to have on the truck.  I carry a regular 7-1/4" circular saw for cutting wood anyways, so I could just replace it with the metal cutting one and get more use out of the tool.  Evolution makes a multi-purpose wood/metal blade that works good for  both.  I  use them on the Evolution metal cutting compound miter saw  in the shop when I need to make an accurate miter cut.
Reply:I was thinking that I may have to use my abrasive chop saw, or get a dry cut saw in addition to a porta band. I can use both saws and they each have there place. I saw the Makita dry cut saw here in town. A friend has one and it is nice. I like how the base is heavy and the miter guard.vise is easy to adjust. But The 12" blade maybe hard to find. So I was thinking about going with the 14" Milwaukee dry cut saw. But I am not sure about the base, or the vise.Questions#1 Does any one know about the back side of the porta band. Is there a guard that covers the blade and the wheels that turn? Reason I ask is because the Dewalt saw on display at lowes did not have one. I did not know if it had one, or if it was just missing.#2 can someone take pics of the vise on there Milwaukee dry cut saw. And what is the base made out of. Some close up pics would be nice of the setup and adjustments (or how the vise adjusts).ThanksRyan
Reply:#1 Does any one know about the back side of the porta band. Is there a guard that covers the blade and the wheels that turn? Reason I ask is because the Dewalt saw on display at lowes did not have one. I did not know if it had one, or if it was just missing.
Reply:The Milwaukee and the dewalt DO NOT have a blade guard on the other side. The man at lowes open two boxes up and both did not have cover.Also other people said the milwaukke do not have a cover.But can some one post a pics of the Milwaukee dry cut saw. I want to see the base and the vise/mounting.ThanksRyan
Reply:The Milwaukee and the dewalt DO NOT have a blade guard on the other side. The man at lowes open two boxes up and both did not have cover.Also other people said the milwaukke do not have a cover.
Reply:Dang Ace,Is it too much trouble to just go to Milwaukee's website and check out photos of the dry cut saw?  They also will show full specs for the machine.If you have a Northern Tools in your area, they have the saw in stock.  That way, you can do your own "touchy/feely".I guess I just get a little upset when folks ask someone else to "do their work for them" when the information one's asking for is readily available.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:I think I remember seeing 2 models of Milwaukee dry cut saw, one with the heavy cast iron base that the 14" chop saws come with and a similar vice mechanism.   Best to go check the website though cause I could be confused.   My Milwaukee chop saw has the very heavy cast iron base and one-bolt vice fence.  The saw is a beast to lug around but very durable and should last many years.  It already took a beating before I put it on the truck.   I just replaced the handle that completely broke off it.  Milwaukee still stocks these parts even though the saw is several years old.I will take a look at the other brands of 7-1/4" metal cutting circular saws before I make a decision.  I have had good experience with my Evolution so I thought that one would be a good possible choice.  The price is right too.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Dry cut saw is the best tool for the job, b\ut I wouldn't call it easily portable, and it's not under 50lbs. So by what  you said it doesn't qualify.  So buy the other, It's great for other reasons,  like the low cost blades  and weight. But it's definately not the best tool for the job. I have both, I use the dry cut 5 times more than my corded or cordless bandsaws.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIDang Ace,Is it too much trouble to just go to Milwaukee's website and check out photos of the dry cut saw?  They also will show full specs for the machine.If you have a Northern Tools in your area, they have the saw in stock.  That way, you can do your own "touchy/feely".I guess I just get a little upset when folks ask someone else to "do their work for them" when the information one's asking for is readily available.
Reply:Mr. fixit,It looks like I am just going to buy a porta band, and a dry cut saw.
Reply:Originally Posted by SandyI must be off on what I call the 'back side'. The back side being the end where your hand fits and trigger is, has a combo guard/guide. (band saw)
Reply:Ok, here is what I was wanting to see a pic of. See yellow box in pic #1. I would like to see a pic taken from the top looking straight down on that area. The reasons is because I want to know how the the back side of the vise operates. I want to know how to adjust it for miter cuts and how tight you can lock it down.I can not tell on this pic how it operates. On my dewalt chop saw that back side of the vise is cheap and you can not really crank it down. The Makita has a lever on the left side of the saw that you can extend and it allows you to adjust the back side of the vise for miter cuts very easy. Better yet, it allows you to crank it down tight enough so it will NOT slip. Attached Images
Reply:Originally Posted by ace4059The back side that I was refering to, is in the pic on this linkhttp://www.swagoffroad.com/images/P5190070-1.JPGsee how it does not have a guard to cover the blade, or rollers. The Milwaukee or dewalt doesnt have a guard.
Reply:Ace, the vice fence mechanism is very simple on my Milwaukee.  Just hold it in the desired position and tighten the bolt.   Not real accurate but it does stay in position.MM350P/Python/Q300MM175/Q300DialarcHFHTP MIG200PowCon300SMHypertherm380ThermalArc185Purox oaF350CrewCab4x4LoadNGo utilitybedBobcat250XMT304/Optima/SpoolmaticSuitcase12RC/Q300Suitcase8RC/Q400Passport/Q300Smith op
Reply:Sandy I know thats not how it should be used. I was just posting that pic (it was the only pic I could find of that other side of the saw) to show you what I was talking about when I said there was no guard on the back.DR,Thanks for the info on how the back of the vise tightens down. The Makita vise adjusting is much better. I guess Ill get me a Milwaukee porta band, and a Makita 12" dry cut saw.Thanks for everyone's info I. You have answered all my questions.
Reply:Ace,I don't think you can go wrong with either the Milwaukee or Makita Dry Cut Saws.As I said before, I've got a DeWalt abrasive chop saw and am not overly impressed.  Saw just feels cheezy in use.  The rear vice support is held in place with a lever that applies friction to keep the rear support from moving.  Not real substantial.The Porter Cable dry cut saw I have has a much more substantial vice.  The rear support rotates on a pivot bolt (which can be tightend down) and the angle is set with an allen head bolt which is tightened down.  Very rigid when set.  The guide markings are not all that accurate.  If precision is needed, I use a separate triangle for setting a true 45 deg between the rear fence and the blade.  If I need a different angle, say 35 deg., I'll just cut a small template on the wood sliding miter saw.  Overall I've been very happy with the PC.  Don't think PC makes this saw anymore, but it seems that Evolution makes one that is a near exact copy.I can't address the Makita because I haven't used one.  I have been very happy with the 3 woodworking sliding miter saws (all Makita's) that I have.As I said in a previous post, If I was replacing the PC tomorrow, it would be with the Milwaukee dry cut saw (Model 6190-20).  I have inspected the saw at Northern and everything (to include the fence) seems to be top drawer.  The rear vice support operates similar to the PC with a bolt for a pivot point and a "locking lever" vs the allen head bolt on the PC.  The table itself has a steel insert for rigidity and just feels a little more substantial than the PC (and I've been happy with the PC).Not trying to be an azz (although I can definitely be), but I don't buy that crap about having done your "homework".  In all of about 5 min. I went to the Milwaukee site, went to their metal cutting saws, went to their Model 6190-20 Dry Cut Saw, and downloaded the owners manual for the saw.  Not only do they show excellent close up photos (b&w mind you) of the rear vice attachment, but they also describe how to adjust it.  About as good as it gets, short of actually having one in hand.Oh, the wonders of the internet.Good Luck in your decision.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Ace (And others who may be interested),You'll find that the Dry Cut Saws put a lot more force into the stock being cut than an abrasive saw.  Therefore, the need for a very substantial vice/clamping mechanism.This is particularly true when cutting heavy stock at a 45 deg angle.  Ask me how I know this.Just by the simple physics involved, the piece cannot be held as firmly in the 45 deg position as it can be in say a 90 deg alignment.  The front of the vice (part held with the adjusting screw) is applying pressure at an angle to the rear vice.  This application of pressure is not as great as when clamping at 90 deg.  The carbide teeth on the blade will try to pull the material being cut into the blade.  Substantial clamping is necessary.I learned this from experience.  One day I was cutting 2" square tubing, 1/4" wall, at a 45 deg angle.  Had the material properly clamped with the saw vice.  Material was pulled into the saw, all He11 broke loose, blade flexed, teeth were knocked off, and the relay tripped.  After checking my drawers, I checked the saw.  Blade was destroyed (about 8 teeth missing) but the saw was undamaged.  New blade and everything was good to go.Now, when I cut stock at an angle with the saw, I add a C-Clamp to the material on the opposite end from the cut.  This clamp is clamped to the workpiece and is positioned so as to make contact with the end of the fence.  That way the work cannot (or at least more difficult) be pulled into the blade.  Sort of like a stopper clamp.  (Hope that makes sense).BTW.  You'll find your best deals on blades for these saws on E-Bay.  I use the Freud 14" Metal Demon on the PC (lasts better than the $125 original).  I'm normally able to find these blades for about $30-35 plus shipping.  Freud makes a 12" blade also if you go with the Makita.  Original equipment blades are just too expensive.  Just do a search for Freud Saw Blades on e-bay.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.Originally Posted by ace4059DR,Thanks for the info on how the back of the vise tightens down. The Makita vise adjusting is much better. I guess Ill get me a Milwaukee porta band, and a Makita 12" dry cut saw.
Reply:the 14" milwaukee abrasive saw i have has a very different base & vice than the 14" dry cut milwaukee saw had that i borrowed recently.the dry cut fence was 9.5 out of ten.abrasive saw was 6.5 out of ten.G