Any home brewers?

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I am not one myself but I am working on a brew set up for guy and we're trying to figure out how to get some air flow for his burners. The pots sit about 3-3/4 inches above the burners but when you set a pot on there it is basically closing off the air flow. as the pot sits. just an idea for air flow. Any ideas would help. Thanks, TroyLincoln 175Monkey Wards 230v.  Stick
Reply:Maybe put a few pieces of thick wall 1" square tubing across. Something strong enough not to sag from the heat of the burner.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:Thanks Gravel, I'll look at that.Lincoln 175Monkey Wards 230v.  Stick
Reply:And on top of the 1" square tube, some stainless bar grating. Brew some beer, eat some steak and life is good.Thermal arc 211iCk flex-loc 150 & 130Clamps, saws & grindersHarbor freight 80 amp inverter
Reply:Thanks Austin. I'm going to talk to my customer and see what he thinks of some 1" square bar. It should be able to handle the heat of the propane. Hopefully it looks something like this.Lincoln 175Monkey Wards 230v.  Stick
Reply:Hit the underside with some flat black grill spray paint, it will absorb IR and not reflect it away.old Miller spectrum 625 Lincoln SP-135 T, CO2+0.025 wireMiller model 250 and WP-18V torchCraftsman 100amp AC/DC and WP-17V torchCentury 115-004 HF arc stabilizerHome made 4 transformer spot welderHome made alternator welder
Reply:I'll do that thanks.Lincoln 175Monkey Wards 230v.  Stick
Reply:Can you use the square bar stock to make a pattern like this :That will allow the heated air to flow unobstructed outward.   For more patterns, go to Google images and type in    gas stove burner grateHmmm, the ready made systems don't appear to have lots of room for air-flow either :    https://www.brewmagic.com/brewing-sy...r-rims-system/Century buzzbox that I learned on 40+ years ago (was Dad's)Crappy Century 110volt mig 70 amp pigeon pooper.Lincoln Idealarc TIG-300
Reply:Thanks Bead. I hadn't thought about Google images. I just need to lift the kettles for some airflow and I don't believe it will take much. I actually bought 1-1/2x1/4 flat stock I just am not sure it won't sag along the narrow edge from the heat.Lincoln 175Monkey Wards 230v.  Stick
Reply:Here is what I have so far. Where I'm standing is the back and I'll add another bar across there and leave the sides open. Does anyone see a problem with the 1-1/2X1/4" bar stock?ThanksLincoln 175Monkey Wards 230v.  Stick
Reply:I'm a homebrewer myself and it looks like your building a brutus 10 or equivalent brew stand.  All the ones I've seen built dont have any support whatsoever to raise the pots off the stand.   I actually highly reccomend you dont do this. Lower the burners if there is any problems, but I don't know why you would have any problems as you do want the burners to be protected from wind and outdoor conditions.   The brew stand you built is what supports these pots/ keggles (converted 15.5 gallon kegs and he will most likely have them filled with 10 + gallons of liquid. His hot liqour tank will probably be filled with near 15 gallons of 170 degree water. YOU DONT WANT THIS TO FALL OVER AND THE STAND IS GOING TO BE THE MOST STABLE PLATFORM FOR THIS)   Remember, these things will more than likely be sitting on someones patio year round and with the high heat against the steel your using, rust is pretty much going to be inevitable at some point even if you use barbq paint or something.   These brew stands are commonly built with Stainless because of this.  Skip the raisers.  Do a test run of the burners and I'm sure there going to be fine, and if needed lower the burners themselves.Dynasty 200DX   (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864   (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel Thermal dynamics Cutmaster 82Miller maxtron 450
Reply:Thank you for the advice. The guy wanted the pots raised because he didn't think there was enough air flow for the burners. His pots hang over the sides by about a half inch to the front and rear.  He figured that a little more air flow would help the heating. His big kettle takes to long to heat up. I will raise the burners to the height recommended by the manufacturer which is 4" below the kettle. As far as rust goes, the guy brews in his garage with the door cracked open. The shrouds around the burners have one hole in the front for air and when the kettle is set on top it basically closes off any way for the exhaust to exit.Lincoln 175Monkey Wards 230v.  Stick
Reply:your welcome. Obviously your going to do what the customer wants.   The shrouds your talking about that aren't pictured I'm assuming are a sheet metal material. I don't think your talking about the frame or the pots.  If he brews in his garage I would reccomend removing the shrouds (he doesn't need them because there is no wind).Dynasty 200DX   (2014)Millermatic 211 (2015)Optrel 864   (2014)Smith Medium duty MBA 30510 (Xmas 2014)Tennsmith 16ga 4ft finger brake (2015)Trailblazer 325 EFI and excel Thermal dynamics Cutmaster 82Miller maxtron 450
Reply:Originally Posted by outdoortyour welcome. Obviously your going to do what the customer wants.   The shrouds your talking about that aren't pictured I'm assuming are a sheet metal material. I don't think your talking about the frame or the pots.  If he brews in his garage I would reccomend removing the shrouds (he doesn't need them because there is no wind).
Reply:I suggested the burner shrouds be removed but the guy said he runs it outside in the summer. So I tease the burners and added the grates. Lincoln 175Monkey Wards 230v.  Stick
Reply:It looks as though you have a box around the burner? If so the heat generated from the flame will draft a fair amount of secondary air this is necessary for a complete burning of the flame. If it were possible to enclose the burners in a box with the gas inlet and primary air outside of it and add a fan your efficiencies would go way up as you would have positive pressure with cool air feeding the flame and forcing all the exhaust gases up around your pots. If you were to go that way it would only work if all the pots were on and heating water.Just my observations
Reply:I'm not sure how any of it works. The pots used to sit directly over the burners with no real exhaust. The guy who owns it wanted the pots raised a bit to help with air flow. The burner manufacturer only states the burners should be four inches below the heating surface.  With the grates in place I raised the burners to four inches below the bottom of the pot. The owner said his pots were taking a very long time to beat enough to boil the 20 gallons or so.Lincoln 175Monkey Wards 230v.  Stick
Reply:Right if you lift off the burner 4" that places the flame at about the right height. My roasters run at 6" but mine are a whole different animal! Think about it if your using an acctelene torch how does it cut when your too close? The goal is to have the surface just touching the last bright blue flame. Also watche the flame with and without the risers after a few minutes does the flame start getting lazy that's lack of oxygen and slows down the process. If I were trying to find the sweet spot I would tack a couple of C clamps on then tack some straps to the end of the threaded face this will give you a chance to play with the height . Read the flame it will show you the way. Touching the surface of the pots and just starting to go up the sides
Reply:Just saw your in Colorado spring assuming your running propane ? Do you have a gauge on the gas line? What pressure is it at full bore? Can you snap a shot of the flame with no pot? On hi. To make it run a bit hotter after seeing it and what the ptrssures are I will give you some ideas on what I would doB
Reply:I returned the brew stand on Saturday.  There are no pressure gauges on the propane. The only thing it has is an air flow regulator on the burner itself.Lincoln 175Monkey Wards 230v.  Stick
Reply:I realize this has been built but this is what I did for a buddies stand. Used a stainless shield from brewers hardware and used square tube wedged into the corner for the pot to sit on. The burner can slide up and down to adjust. Probably over complicated but that's what happens when you let an engineer design a stand. This is a dual setup. Propane for brew and hot liquor tank w/ 110v electric to maintain temp. In use
Reply:@ HRT - if your client is desiring a Brutus 10 rig, this link may give you some SA: http://www.pinterest.com/homebrewaca...omebrew-build/Had plans last year to fab a "B10" setup but the project interest fizzled.  Good fortune in your endeavor."Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:Looking at the B10 on Pinterest, I noticed a few differences.  The first one is that on the stand I was working on the lower front rail is a gas chamber. I mean the propane is plumbed into the rail and there are four threaded bungs welded into it so all the burners get an even flow. The fourth is welded into the center on the back side of the rail. The second is the burners, they're 10". All the plumbing is copper as well.Lincoln 175Monkey Wards 230v.  Stick
Reply:@ HRT - tracking with you.  If would never run the propane thru the tubing.  My approach was to use SS brained lines with AeroQuip fittings."Discovery is to see what everybody else has seen, and to think what nobody else has thought" - Albert Szent-Gyorgyi
Reply:Originally Posted by HotRodTroyI'm not sure how any of it works. The pots used to sit directly over the burners with no real exhaust. The guy who owns it wanted the pots raised a bit to help with air flow. The burner manufacturer only states the burners should be four inches below the heating surface.  With the grates in place I raised the burners to four inches below the bottom of the pot. The owner said his pots were taking a very long time to beat enough to boil the 20 gallons or so.