Need help picking a welder.

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Hey guys I'm new here (I've never used a welder) and I need help picking a welder for doing automotive work. I fix my car myself and also planning on having some project cars in the future. From the research I've done on this forum I'm looking at getting a MIG welder. I'm specifically looking at the Miller 211, but I'm unsure if it will be able to handle everything I want to do I really don't want to have to buy another welder in the future and I can save up for something really nice. I'm not looking to buy it right now but I need to know how much I need to save for something that will accomplish all of my future projects. Since these are cars that I like to work on I need to be able to make welds that are safe and reliable for driving down the road (and I do understand that making a safe and reliable weld also depends on your skill level). I do not plan on ever doing any framework because I don't think I'll need to. If I ended up needing to do frame work I think I would need a TIG welder anyways. For the MIG welder I plan on doing custom exhaust work like welding exhausts that you buy online just so they don't come apart and doing rocker panels and sheet metal work/body work. Also making some custom brackets for things that I add to my cars and stuff like that (intercooler brackets etc...). My other concern is that most of the performance exhausts that you buy online are stainless steel and I'm unsure if the 211 would be able to handle stainless steel exhausts. Also the voltage does not matter to me because my dads an electrician and he will put in any outlet I need without question all I got to do is supply beer and food LOL
Reply:The 211 would be a great machine for what you describe.  For stainless you just need straight argon whereas you would use 75/25 for regular steel.GravelThe difference between theory and practice is that in theory there is no difference.
Reply:Would the 211 be able to keep up with me once I get good or will I be stopping every 5 minutes to let it cool off? Biggest thing ill be welding is probably stainless exhausts. Anything more than that I'll buy a TIG.
Reply:Sounds like the 211 would work well. Plus you are in luck ! Go buy now and Miller has a rebate on machine, hood, and goodies.http://www.millerwelds.com/products/special-offers.html
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Reply:Originally Posted by apierce1289Would the 211 be able to keep up with me once I get good or will I be stopping every 5 minutes to let it cool off? Biggest thing ill be welding is probably stainless exhausts. Anything more than that I'll buy a TIG.
Reply:And weld strength would be just as good as a shop once I get good right? Even on exhaust? I mainly do my own work because I've had too many hack jobs done by shops, plus I like to learn and customize everything I own. I have all my own air tools and everything I could ever need to work on a car a welder is the only thing I'm missing and a engine hoist and stand LOL.Last edited by apierce1289; 12-04-2014 at 09:17 PM.
Reply:IF you think duty cycle is a issue, then jump to the 252. Maybe the exhaust guys will voice their thoughts. You could go with the 211 and get the 210 syncro too. Christmas s coming !
Reply:I was planning on a 210v
Reply:And about the exhausts I'll wait for somebody that has more experience in this to chime in
Reply:You'll never go wrong with the millermatic 211.A friend of mine, here in the philippines, use his MM211 on pretty much every project that comes to his shop. Stock car racing and go-karts. On stainless exhaust systems they use TIG. Better weld appearance than MIG.The MM211 runs 230v.Last edited by silvertina; 12-04-2014 at 10:08 PM.
Reply:Straight argon will not work MIG welding SS. Give this a read.http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...ss-detail.aspx-JonathanFollow me on Twitter @_JonathanLewis and Instagram @superiorwelding
Reply:If you get into doing intakes, intercooler piping, turbo work etc you will really want an AC/DC TIG.  It's an addiction and you will end up buying another machine.  But I understand not wanting to buy another "MIG" later to replace the one you buy now.   I really like the 250 amp machines if you only want to buy one.  But does not sound like you will be doing much heavy plate welding ¼" and thicker. Even when you do, seems they will be smaller short welds.  Therefore the 211. Would be fine.   I would research which machines do the best on sheet metal.  Looks like you may be doing more of that.   The arc quality and low end control vary widely between brands and individual machines.Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Originally Posted by Superior WeldingStraight argon will not work MIG welding SS. Give this a read.http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us...ss-detail.aspx-Jonathan
Reply:Is there something that could do auto body that's cheaper? Then get a separate AC/DC Tig for exhaust work only? Or could I realistically weld a stainless exhaust together with the 211?Also a friend of mine is selling an older Hobart Beta 200 mig. He wants $500 for it, says the fan makes some noise for the first 10 minutes and then quiets down. He's been using it for the past 20 years I guess at his auto body shop. Not sure if it's any good or if I should save my pennies LOL.
Reply:If you have craigs list in your area, search for a used 120 volt mig machine. There are many by me always for sale. People buy them, use a short time, loose interest, or realize there are low on amps .
Reply:my beta-mig 200  has 60% duty cycle and rated at 240A that is the same duty cycle as new 250 Amp machines . I think 200A inverter multi is a good choice as you can do scratch start tig as well as mig and stick for about $900.beta-mig weighs about 200#  inverter 28#Last edited by sparkness; 12-05-2014 at 01:47 PM.mig,tig,oxy,plasma,lathe,mill,bender,vise,grinder
Reply:Originally Posted by apierce1289Is there something that could do auto body that's cheaper? Then get a separate AC/DC Tig for exhaust work only? Or could I realistically weld a stainless exhaust together with the 211?Also a friend of mine is selling an older Hobart Beta 200 mig. He wants $500 for it, says the fan makes some noise for the first 10 minutes and then quiets down. He's been using it for the past 20 years I guess at his auto body shop. Not sure if it's any good or if I should save my pennies LOL.
Reply:A machine used in an Auto body shop probably needs a good cleaning, then oil on the Fan bearings will probably cure any Ills that machine may have!Go over, test drive it, see if it will weld the specific materials you feel you will be doing. If it works for you, then buy it! Sounds like a good deal?
Reply:I'm an auto guy.Get a 175-250 TIG machine.A MIG is ok for exhaust and some sheet metal work. A TIG will do everything front to back top to bottom on a car.12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829
Reply:Originally Posted by VPTI'm an auto guy.Get a 175-250 TIG machine.A MIG is ok for exhaust and some sheet metal work. A TIG will do everything front to back top to bottom on a car.
Reply:I will start off and say I am a tool whore so I own stick,mig,tig, plasma .... You get the idea. Any way mig is the easiest to learn on ,follow the chart on the door of the machine and it will usually get you in the ball park. I started out with a Hobart 140 mig (110 volt) and have been beating the ... Out of it for the last 12 years ( over 150 lbs of wire through it). If you have the money and the 220 volt outlet look at the dual voltage units. This allows you to work on 110 when you are away from the shop. If you plan on working in aluminum you will need a spool gun to make mig work on that metal. Tig is a more expensive machine need ac/dc unit for aluminum. The welds when done right look fantastic,but it takes more time. I will usually use the mig to spot weld the part in place and weld it up with my tig if I want it to look great. If you are welding bigger then1/4" stick is the cheapest way to go in the beginning. Just my .02 from welding 15 years.  Hope this helps Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk, hobbiest ,Hobart 140 mig welder, Hobart ac/dc stick, miller 250 sycrowave tig, thermal dynamics plasma, Chicago electric 180 mig ( modified of course) , Powermatic/Everede mill.
Reply:In regards to duty cycle you need to let thin wall stuff cool or it will warp and drive you crazy . So the materials will be driving the welding time more then the duty cycle of the unit . Realistically you can only weld ( making sparks) for around 2 min out ten on any thing thinner the 3/16" and you should only be welding in 15-20 sec burst any way or you will put to much heat into the work Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk, hobbiest ,Hobart 140 mig welder, Hobart ac/dc stick, miller 250 sycrowave tig, thermal dynamics plasma, Chicago electric 180 mig ( modified of course) , Powermatic/Everede mill.
Reply:Originally Posted by apierce1289So I shouldn't waste money on a mig? How difficult is a tig welder to learn for a noob?