Eastwood 200 What?!?! POS!

admin

OOOOOOOOOOOOK Im just about fed up with this goddamn thing, I have been welding for 7 years and I know that I can weld. I am very good at tig. I no way shape or for am I saying that its the machine. But after 3 months of wrestling and fighting with this thing I have to other choice then to consult with you guys. I am using a Eastwood tig 200 with 220 watt outlet so im getting plenty of juice. Ok I am currently working on a intercooler tabs for our big turbo build, now what has pushed me over the edge is when I was trying to tac tabs on to the intercooler the arc what choosing the thing metal of the tab and completely melting the metal away rather than staying right in between the surface that im welding on and the tab. If I lower the amps to about 120 it takes foorrrrrrrrrrrver to get a puddle and if I raise the amps to 140 its like the im welding 1" aircraft aluminum. ErrrrrrrThis isnt the only time that this has been happening. it does this when I weld any thinner aluminum to thicker aluminum. Another thing is that the booklet says the machine is good up to 1/4 material but when you put the heat to anything steel or aluminum the rubber coating melts away from the copper on the ground and eventually the copper wire completely deteriorates from the ground like the machine cant handle its own rating. WTFThe machine is hit or miss. Somtime ill get a nice weld but most times they all look like crap. And comparing this machine to the Lincolns and the Millers ive used, it would be better as a boat anchor than anything else. Ugghh. Basically my welds come out looking like total S**T and im tired of it. Has anyone else had as much trouble with these machines as I am having? And if you want to call me out on my welding skills, that it is welder error please do so because have pics of my work to back it up. Sorry for the rant and the spelling/grammar im on my lunch break so I had to make it fast. Any input would be greatly appreciated. If you need me to explain anything let me know. Thanks Kyle
Reply:[IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]
Reply:Those pics scream gas issue and dipping the tungsten to me.I got rid of my regulator and switched to a flowmeter and it immediately told me I had a gas flow issue. Fixed the problem and now great welds. Different machine of course.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:I agree that you probably have a gas issue. I also don't see any cleaning prep on that aluminum and it looks very oxidized. If any of it's anodized your life will be that much more miserable. Wire brush or wire wheel down to shiny sticky aluminum and see if that helps any. You are using 100% argon right? Try playing with your gas settings and see if that helps. If nothing else helps try a different tank of gas.Lincoln precision TIG 275Millermatic 140 MIG
Reply:I did grind the tab ends before I welded them and cleaned them up. Also acetone cleaned my weld surface before I welded it. I'll be more conscious to clean it even more. Ahaaa you may have found my problem. Because I'll notice when sometimes when I turn my gas up to 20 and make a weld it will actually read higher like 25 or 30. So my reg might be crap.I did dip those welds a couple of times because im forced to stick my tungstun out furthur because the arc curves away from my weld puddle when have it just a hair passed the cup. Will the gas issue fix this arc movement?Yes in a using 100% Argon and no anodized alum.
Reply:what size Tungsten? What Composition? What size Cup?Perhaps a bigger tungsten, and a larger cup.and a lot more gas.
Reply:Originally Posted by the vapricatorWill the gas issue fix this arc movement?
Reply:So what I would do is hold the torch away from the metal, turn the post flow all the way up. Hit the pedal. And if you are using a flowmeter turn up the flow as high as it can. If you can't go above a specific flow you have a restriction. If you disconnect the torch from the machine while doing this and the flow rises you restriction is in the torch.You won't be able to tell with a regulator like they give you with the machine though.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:I'm using a wp 17 torch size 6 cup 2% thoriated 3/32 because the pure tungsten makes it even worse. I grind my tung down to a crayon shape. I read on here that you could use red and it seems to do a little better than pure tung. I know that I would catch some grief on human error but I've never had as much trouble on alum as I've had with this machine. Ive switched to a different reg and put on a new tig hose. Mine was pretty beat up. Thanks for the help.
Reply:Always favor the thicker material with the arc until it puddles and then hit the thinner piece and start your bead.Late to bed, and early to rise. Fish like hell so I don't have to make up lies. Syncrowave 200MM211 & Spoolmate 100
Reply:I would like to see some practice beads ran on similar thickness material just some stringer or corner joints to see a sample of your "good" welding and if there is any technique issues also. I am seeing some technique issues and based on the questions you posted, you are not an Expert TIG welder...  let the group help you fix any technique issues first.   are you using a pedal or finger amp control?I too am just a hobbyist but we have some masters here who are willing to help if you are willing to learn...Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:Looks like zero prep and most likely anodized aluminum. Scrub scrub scrub witha ss wire brush, wipe down withe acetone and repeat till its clean and give it a go on some scrap then report back with some pics bro! I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Originally Posted by the vapricatorI'm using a wp 17 torch size 6 cup 2% thoriated 3/32 because the pure tungsten makes it even worse. I grind my tung down to a crayon shape. I read on here that you could use red and it seems to do a little better than pure tung. I know that I would catch some grief on human error but I've never had as much trouble on alum as I've had with this machine. Ive switched to a different reg and put on a new tig hose. Mine was pretty beat up. Thanks for the help.
Reply:@ southpaw yes you make a good point and if I came off as an expert I'm sorry thats not how I meant it. But welding for as long as 7 years certinly doesn't make me a novice. I do have quit a bit of knowledge and know how but I dont know it all. I am very willing to learn or I wouldn't be on here asking questions. :-)I am using a pedal. I switched my reg and put on a new tig rig. It seems to have helped but yes of course i ran out of argon. Im going to get more and stay late tonight. I'll have pics up later thanks for the help y'all.
Reply:Originally Posted by the vapricatorI did grind the tab ends before I welded them and cleaned them up.
Reply:Oh and on a design note, I would weld the end tanks on first and then weld the mounting brackets to where the end tank meets the IC. This will be much stronger, much less likely to mess up the IC and may even make welding it easier.Lincoln precision TIG 275Millermatic 140 MIG
Reply:I ground that tabs with a tiger paw to clean them and get all the burrs off from the band saw. i did acetone the surface of intercooler. i figured that the white was just discoloration. But my mistake is im not cleaning enough. We have to weld the tabs on first because we have to trim and fit the bumper and were not enitrely sure where we are going to plum the intercooler pipeing. End tanks built based on pipeing route.once again thanks for the input. sorry for the misunderstanding.
Reply:Ok here are some stringers and a couple joint welds for if any of you had a doubt. lolBut this is after a different regulator. New torch and hose and a fresh bottle of argon. sooooo here it is.I also took your guys adcvice ss brushed my piece and acetone cleaned as well.and i am aware that the weld in the top right in the second pic looks like s**t. yes i know my peice at that point was very hot and i couldnt move fast enough and add enough filler.Last edited by the vapricator; 08-30-2013 at 05:43 PM.
Reply:Well then you owe eastwood a apology! Even tho they sell shlt welding equipment. Your hands are good but your knowledge is not up to par. Glad to see it worked out! I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:So what do you think my main problem was. Gas issue? Regulator? Cleaning? all three?
Reply:Hahahahah. This is why you need to do the process of elimination to figure it out. Now go back and change your regulator and see if the problem comes back.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:And just in case anyone hasn't said it yet, the arc "preferring" one side of the joint or the other before a puddle is established is pretty par for the course with aluminum, especially if there is a gap in the joint.
Reply:But what blows my mind is that I'm having a problem now the thing is only 3 months old. If it is the regulator then I know for certain I dont have a lot of confidence in they're product.Last edited by the vapricator; 08-30-2013 at 06:19 PM.
Reply:One thing I have learned here is there is no such thing as having Aluminum "Too clean".  Also we had an eastwood rep on here a while back and all the eastwood stuff is just Chinese mass produced stuff that Eastwood does not repair or support after warranty.  They just swap it out till u reach the end of the warranty and that's it.    Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2Tiger Sales:  AHP Distributor    www.tigersalesco.comAHP200x; AHP 160ST; MM350P,  Spoolmatic 30A; Everlast PowerTig 185; Thermal Dynamics 60i plasma.  For Sale:  Cobra Mig 250 w/ Push-pull gun.  Lincoln Wirematic 250
Reply:If you would have asked first I would have told you that 1.5% or 2% is worlds better than both pure and 2%Th tungstens on this machine.  It maintains a sharpened point much better whic always helps focus the arc.  What were you setting the clearance effect to?Last edited by Oscar; 08-30-2013 at 07:43 PM. 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SCNow you just gotta cut out and re do all the shlt you welded in that car. You have to learn bud, as soon as something is wrong you will know it, and stop, till you figure out the problem! I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:Originally Posted by OscarIf you would have asked first I would have told you that 1.5% or 2% is worlds better than both pure and 2%Th tungstens on this machine.  It maintains a sharpened point much better whic always helps focus the arc.  What were you setting the clearance effect to?
Reply:I found ceriated has the best restarts.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Have you tried welding the IC yet? If you really want to do a little process of elimination then try welding that dirty @$$ aluminum again and see if the problem comes back. If so then the problem was cleaning. If not then it's the gas or the regulator. If it's the gas well you never have to worry about that tank again so don't worry about it. If you really want to know if it's the regulator then put the old one back on.Lincoln precision TIG 275Millermatic 140 MIG
Reply:ok yall i got some results i cut s**t tabs out ground down to clean surface and wire brushed the hell out of the surface i was welding and turned out pretty good.welds came out clean and i putter on there pretty thick.as far as tungs. go. i will def check out some new options. i have heard the ceriated is good as well as the trimix. you say you can get a free sample from them? what are the details?here are some pics. so i have learned from my mistakes and its now clear that i havent been cleaning enough as well and keeping taps on my weld gear. ill do a better job of this on future jobs. thanks for the help and i came to you guys for a reason. you guys are great. ill keep you posted on the build thanks again!
Reply:Looks better.  The cleaner you can get the aluminum surface prior to welding it, the more EN you can get away with (less cleaning, IE:  clearance effect more "negative" on this machine).  This allows a more focused arc because it will ball up less (due to less oxide cleaning), especially when using lanthanated tungstens.  BTW, I would put some kind of strain relief on this portion of the cable just after the fitting.  Eastwood send me an extra cable because of an issue with my original one, but this one is still a cheap chinese cable that will start cracking right after the crimp, due to the 90°+ drop downwards (since the machine is slightly inclined "up" and the cable hanging straight down).  I had a crack develop because my machine is outdoors where it is 100°F+ for 90% of the year.  The rubber has no choice but to deteriorate, crack, and thus cause a leak where air will contaminate the argon stream.This is a good video on tungstens on an inverter tigLast edited by Oscar; 08-31-2013 at 02:56 PM. 1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC
Reply:Much better.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:@ Oscar so to my understanding of what your telling me is the more i clean clean clean the more negative i can run the clearance effect to keep my tung at a cleaner point correct!?!?I have been running it in between 0 and -1. so this setting is more likely to "ball up" my tung right?Great video on the tungsten thanks.
Reply:The more you clean the metal the less you need the machine to clean it. So on your machine I pretty much always ran -3, but if its really squeaky clean (by hand) you can run -5.Torchmate 2x2 CNC with Flashcut CNC controlsHypertherm Powermax45 Esab ET220i Razorweld 195 MigRazorweld 200ac/dc TigTormach 770, Tormach xstechRazorweld, Vipercut/Vipermig, SSC Foot Pedal Dealer
Reply:Originally Posted by the vapricator@ Oscar so to my understanding of what your telling me is the more i clean clean clean the more negative i can run the clearance effect to keep my tung at a cleaner point correct!?!?I have been running it in between 0 and -1. so this setting is more likely to "ball up" my tung right?Great video on the tungsten thanks.
Reply:I have also found there is a point where the risk to reward ratio just isn't worth it. Without enough EP you can suddenly get some weld contamination that you then have to go back and fix, diagnose and redo. I don't know how it compares to the Eastwood but I generally keep my PT275 about 75% toward the penetration side for high grade aluminum and drop down to about 50% for cast and other dirty metals. There have been a couple projects where I had to drop below 50%, even then there are some cast parts that still suck to weld.Lincoln precision TIG 275Millermatic 140 MIG
Reply:Originally Posted by the vapricatoras far as tungs. go. i will def check out some new options. i have heard the ceriated is good as well as the trimix. you say you can get a free sample from them? what are the details?
Reply:Originally Posted by the vapricatorSo what do you think my main problem was. Gas issue? Regulator? Cleaning? all three?
Reply:Rojodiablo. Yes i would def agree on all three. I def know what i need to do now. i guess i was just feel off the wagon on the process of elimination as one mentioned earlier in the post. I will def be checking on the tungsten form Diamond. Thats sounds like a good deal.As far as the clearance effect, i thought it was the same a the dig setting on the on the lincoln and miller machines. or is it basically the same concept?But this is great to know now. ill be playing with that setting more now. thanks again guys i post some pics of the intercooler endtanks im building today for out big turbo build. and they will be cleaned immensely lol.
Reply:Also is there any good threads you guys can send me on alum welding/clean/prep. I was aware that alum oxidizes but was unaware of how quick it can. I would love to read them
Reply:As soon as your Acetone Flashes off and the surface is DRY the Aluminum has ALREADY begun to oxidize...Remove Dirt and Grease/Oil with solvent (acetone)Scrub off Oxides with Brush or AbrasivesSubstrate needs to be Bright and Shiny... you will NEVER remove ALL Oxides...Second Cleaning with Solvent (acetone)From this point onward it is oxidizing... Weld ASAP...
Reply:http://www.jstor.org/discover/10.230...21102614850623The oxidation starts pretty much instantly and not only that, the rate at which it does so, is fastest at the beginning after you've finished brushing off the oxides.  The cleaner you get it, the faster it starts to form as well (double-edged sword), so as YoshimitsuSpeed said, there is a point of diminishing returns, but if you are willing to go the extra mile to constantly clean-then-weld every linear inch, I'm sure you can get fantastic results.  I don't have that kind of patience though  1st on WeldingWeb to have a scrolling sig! HTP Invertig 400HTP Invertig 221HTP ProPulse 300HTP ProPulse 200 x2HTP ProPulse 220MTSHTP Inverarc 200TLP HTP Microcut 875SC