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Could someone tell me the best way to cut stainless steel? I just ruined my super duper harbor freight portable band saw blade. And by the way, after three years of hard use and abuse, my 7 dollar harbor freight angle grinder finally burned up--literally! Poor fella. He's in a better place now.
Reply:plasma.....Of all the things I lost I miss my mind the most...I know just enough about everything to be dangerous......You cant cure stupid..only kill it...
Reply:I heard you wanna cut stainless at a slower blade speed
Reply:What are you cutting, sheet, plate, pipe, rod? Are you worried about cross contamination?
Reply:Get a good blade for your saw (bi metal lenox are nice for ss)Get good slicer wheels for the grinder. Thinner the better. Make sure they are marked for ssWater jet it's also a really good choice. Plasma, I shy from unless absolutely needed. Too messy and leaves a lot of clean up
Reply:I'm making coupons for tig practice so I want to avoid contamination and mess from my plasma. I was using Lenox blades but it just seems to take so long compared to mild steel. If that's how it is then I'll deal with it but there has to be a trick to go a little faster. Maybe a better saw?
Reply:1/8 inch sheet is my material.
Reply:Metabo Slicer cut-off blade for grinder works pretty good.GraysOrnamentalIron.com
Reply:A coolant type wax, such as Walther's Cool Cut will make a big difference.
Reply:A lot of people call 11 gauge (1/8") plate. If all you're looking for is straight cut 11 gauge, then seek out a weld/fab shop and have a bunch sheared up.
Reply:I haven't cut a whole lot of stainless steel, but enough to know my Ellis works flawlessly doing it. Attached ImagesDont pay any attention to meIm just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPI haven't cut a whole lot of stainless steel, but enough to know my Ellis works flawlessly doing it.
Reply:Originally Posted by Hambone2004Could someone tell me the best way to cut stainless steel? I just ruined my super duper harbor freight portable band saw blade. And by the way, after three years of hard use and abuse, my 7 dollar harbor freight angle grinder finally burned up--literally! Poor fella. He's in a better place now.
Reply:Originally Posted by Hambone2004I'm making coupons for tig practice so I want to avoid contamination and mess from my plasma.
Reply:Originally Posted by Bosco99Bet the guy's not going to be buying one of those today.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPWhy not? They sell them everyday, and I'll bet they have people staying up late at night building more of them.
Reply:Originally Posted by Bosco99Bragging about an awesome machine that's way out of this guy's ball park aint gonna help him.
Reply:It's 11gauge 4 ft by 2 " flat. I got it from the steel yard as drops (6 pieces) for about 20 dollars. I'm trying to cut it into 5" pieces. It's going its taking about 4 times longer than I expected with the cheapo hf saw. It's just scrap that I'm going to booger up with pitiful welds. But I would like it to be devoid of as much garbage as possible because I would at least like to have one variable taken out of the boogering process. I tried the cutoff wheel and it is so much easier. I was thinking that the cutoff wheel would be a bit barbaric for such pretty scrap. As far as the Ellis saw is concerned, would I be asking this question on a forum if I had access to something that nice? In my dream shop I would have a shear and a plasma cam and that gorgeous saw. But right now I have what I have and I still make money. The cheap tools just helped pay for a new driveway. So I am seriously going to start looking at better stuff. I don't know about that saw but something better than hf.That was great suggestion about the cutoff wheel though. Thanks. It's simple but it works.Last edited by Hambone2004; 03-05-2015 at 07:08 PM.
Reply:Cutoff wheels are your best best. It is slow and it will eat up wheels.HF 98233 Stick/TigHF 95136 PlasmaEastwood TIG200Eastwood MIG250Damn, I cut it twice already and it's still too short!
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPOh, I'm sorry I didn't see the OP's financial statement. All I seen was his question. Could someone tell me the best way to cut stainless steel?
Reply:Originally Posted by Bosco99a heavy duty Rancine power hack saw is the answer for cutting any length and especially stainless. Hands down will I take a Rancine over that Ellis.
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPAn Ellis is good enough for a hobby welder like my self.
Reply:Originally Posted by Hambone2004I'm gonna go ahead and agree with that there. That is when I get an Ellis. My last name is Ellis so I won't have to rent and.
Reply:I cut stainless with my plasma. If your amps and travel speed are correctly set, it does a good job. If your amps and travel speed are not correctly set, expect a lot of clean up.JasonLincoln Idealarc 250 stick/tigThermal Dynamics Cutmaster 52Miller Bobcat 250Torchmate CNC tableThermal Arc Hefty 2Ironworkers Local 720
Reply:Originally Posted by Hambone2004It's 11gauge 4 ft by 2 " flat. I got it from the steel yard as drops (6 pieces) for about 20 dollars. I'm trying to cut it into 5" pieces.Originally Posted by ian1386So if you did just chop if off with the plasma, how much of it would be contaminated? Or in other words, how close could you weld to the cut without doing any additional cleanup? I'm just curious at this point, never having worked with stainless (though something I hope to try soon).
Reply:Wow, I see Bosco is arrogant as ever. Just watch, he'll delete all his statements now! He's obviously never been around a good bandsaw. Production shops use bandsaws, machine shops that do smaller amounts might use a power hacksaw but it's slower. The proper coolant can make a huge difference when cutting stainless as well as a good blade. For an inexpensive way to cut 1/8" stainless, use a good Zip disc like a Walter in an angle grinder.
Reply:Plasma ,shear, bandsaw,abrasive saw & power hacksaw will all work.So will a cold chisel and hammer.Only fuel gas will not unless you have a powder cut torch. Quality consumables make the difference.
Reply:Originally Posted by Welder DaveWow, I see Bosco is arrogant as ever. Just watch, he'll delete all his statements now! He's obviously never been around a good bandsaw. Production shops use bandsaws, machine shops that do smaller amounts might use a power hacksaw but it's slower. The proper coolant can make a huge difference when cutting stainless as well as a good blade. For an inexpensive way to cut 1/8" stainless, use a good Zip disc like a Walter in an angle grinder.
Reply:I don't know much about the particular model of power hacksaw we are discussing here... but they have one where I buy aluminum plate (probably sheet, since it is 5-10mm thick) and it is an interesting machine. It is slow, but seems quite robust. They also let me have the broken/dull saws... I make knives out of them! No need to heat treat them again... they are as hard as I might want them!Regarding the OP question... I think that zip wheels should do the trick. The thinner, the better. Just don't expect loooong cuts to be 100 in line and you will be fine.Mikel
Reply:Originally Posted by Bosco99Well the best way certainly aint no rubber band band saw! Band saws suck. Their cuts waver. The blades break. The blades dull fast and are expensive. Many are notorious for bad alignment and falling out of the guides. You want to cut with precision continuously for years on one 20 buck blade? ....a heavy duty Rancine power hack saw is the answer for cutting any length and especially stainless. Hands down will I take a Rancine over that Ellis.
Reply:Originally Posted by walkerSpoken by someone who has never used that Ellis saw obviously. I have used some of those power hacksaws over the years. While they are useful, as well as being unique, there is nothing that it can do that a large commercial bandsaw cannot do better. And yes they have pneumatic/hydraulic/mechanical clamps you can buy for just about any saw too.
Reply:Hobart 210 MVPHTP Invertig 221 + coolerEverlast SuperUltra 205
Reply:I cut stainless with my bandsaw all the time. In fact most exhaust work I do is stainless. All cut dry.That piece in the saw in the pic is stainless. I cut up a bunch of tabs that day. Notice the material stop.Stainless:Stainless:Stainless:I have also pulled aluminum parts strait off the plasma table to the welding table without any problems. I haven't tried stainless yet.12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829
Reply:Try stack cutting 12 pieces of tubing in a hacksaw. They make automatic bandsaws as well. You can't compare an industrial hacksaw with a HF bandsaw. The best bandsaw I ever used was a vertical with tilt and power feed. If you put the vice on angle you could do compound miter's. It had an 18" capacity and they used it for cutting 18" pipe on a 45 deg. to make fire tubes. Hyd-Mech in Canada makes good bandsaws but there's lots of good names on the market. A good blade like an Mk Morse, Wikus or Lenox, etc. makes a world of difference as does having the right type of blade for the job. Good bandsaw blades last a long time if properly broken in and used correctly.
Reply:.....Last edited by Bosco99; 03-07-2015 at 08:18 AM.
Reply:For home shop occasional use, a narrow abrasive disc is about as good as it gets in the "don't buy expensive tools" category.It will take awhile for a larger piece, though.Bandsaws have no problems with SS, given the right selection of blade. I don't discount that a power hacksaw would work as well, although finding one like Bosco describes in good working order might be somewhat more complicated than finding a decent quality bandsaw that would do the same job. I've regularly cut 2" schedule 40 SS pipe and a bandsaw makes short work of it, and comes out with a good finish and square.The local community college uses its large power shear to cut its SS coupons to size out of sheet. Probably light years quicker than even doing the job with a bandsaw. If you can find a friendly shop around that has the equipment, maybe a case or two of beverage or a box of donuts would get your coupons the right size
Reply:Originally Posted by Mr. MooseFor home shop occasional use, a narrow abrasive disc is about as good as it gets in the "don't buy expensive tools" category.It will take awhile for a larger piece, though.Bandsaws have no problems with SS, given the right selection of blade. I don't discount that a power hacksaw would work as well, although finding one like Bosco describes in good working order might be somewhat more complicated than finding a decent quality bandsaw that would do the same job. I've regularly cut 2" schedule 40 SS pipe and a bandsaw makes short work of it, and comes out with a good finish and square.The local community college uses its large power shear to cut its SS coupons to size out of sheet. Probably light years quicker than even doing the job with a bandsaw. If you can find a friendly shop around that has the equipment, maybe a case or two of beverage or a box of donuts would get your coupons the right size
Reply:Originally Posted by Bosco99They don't work as well. They work better. .... Very doubtful you'll find a power hacksaw I have described in working order or at all for that matter.
Reply:You know if you really want the most accurate cut use a commercial cold cut saw. Bosco is comparing cheap bandsaws to industrial hacksaws. The reason you don't see too many new power hacksaws is because bandsaws, blades and coolants have gotten so much better over the years they've replaced the power hacksaw and are every bit as accurate.
Reply:Originally Posted by Hambone2004Could someone tell me the best way to cut stainless steel?
Reply:Originally Posted by Bosco99Bragging about an awesome machine that's way out of this guy's ball park aint gonna help him.
Reply:Personally I would like to see a video of a power hacksaw cut threw 4" of 1/8" stainless bar stock. Not being a smart arse or anything, I just never seen one in action. I know my bandsaw would cut threw the 4x1/8" stainless I pictured earlier (first pic) in about 30 seconds or less.12v battery, jumper cables, and a 6013.I only have a facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/pages/VPT/244788508917829 |
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