|
|
I am expecting my 30A spoolgun this week and am interested in welding aluminum. I spoke to someone local who recommended welding it hot and fast. I was also told to clean my weld area with extreme care and when you think it is clean, clean it again. The other issue that keeps coming up is heating the aluminum with oxy/acc torch and then clean with wire brush before welding. Is there anything anyone can recommend.My mig is a Millermatic 252, argon, aluminum will be approx 1/4 inch thick. any suggestions as too voltage/wire feed settings?any suggestions would be appreciatedGuy_48Welding is an art......Millermatic 252Lincoln SP175PlusLincoln 225 AC/DC
Reply:Your settings will depend on wire size.....24-25 volts and ws of 375 - 450 ipm (lower for thicker wire and higher for thinner wire)The door chart will get you close also...... start the ws a little faster then turn it down....this will help prevent burn back and a lost contact tip......FYI not sure if it's worth your time or not but I was out of tips on a sunday morning so I took the last one that suffered a burn back and hit it with my little lp torch and once the al started to melt I pushed it out with a torch tip cleaner...worked great.....Mike
Reply:now rember if you are welding cast alum. pre heat is needed. because of the magnesium. also welding alum try stick its really easy to run.
Reply:Hot and fast is the best advice you'll hear.Ally wire is much softer so keep your lead straight and if possible elevate your remote above your work.Use as thick as possible wire , it behaves better , doesn't birds nest as easily and is generally easier to live with. Obviously application and machine are limiting factors but go as thick as you can.I know a lot of respected posters here are huge believers in sterile cleaning ally , however when Migging I will only give it a bit of a linish with Scotch Brite .I have never had any dramas.Please note this is with new mill finish material.Ally has a habit of burning back badly when first striking your arc. I have found it advantageous to pull trigger first off the piece and quickly lead into the work , weld permitting.Ease off your rollers to the minimum you can without slipping.A good guess is better than a bad measurement
Reply:*Slaps forehead*.....Spool gun (Must remember to read question properly!)A good guess is better than a bad measurement
Reply:Originally Posted by Brett*Slaps forehead*.....Spool gun (Must remember to read question properly!)
Reply:This cleanliness thing is getting out of control.Yes - the material needs to be clean and relatively shiney, but setting it up in an operating room environment is a bunch of BS. Plain and simple. Remove oil and general filth and weld it.Preheat is only needed if the material is cast, wet, stored in a high humidity (90%+) environment or if it is 7075 or one of the other "impossible to weld" alloys. Preheat will do nothing to assist with the weld for the more common MIG applications. It will not help with the cold start as cold start is not really referencing the material temperature, it's referring to the stability of the arc.The first inch or so of any MIG weld is too cold and lacks fusion. This is true on steel, too. It's an inherent property/function of the MIG process, not the weldor or welder. To minimze cold start on AL MIG, start the weld about 2" from where you want the start and arc into the starting point relatively quickly in comparison to travel speed, then weld over top of the cold start - which is spread out over the two inches and is less proud. This will establish the arc and wire melt and minimize the cold start. The only way to eliminate it is to start the weld on a separate plate, weld onto your work and then cut the plate off afterwards.At the end of the weld, pause to build a small mound to eliminate cratering. The length of time required varies and will take some practice, but you do not want a crater or hole at the end of your weld.Preheat can be used to drive oil out of the pores of castings but for general aluminum MIG on 5053 or 6061 (6063), preheat is a waste of time.Use higher wire feed than the door chart and back into it. Too slow and you will be changing tips and re-threading wire often.Push the puddle - don't pull.More shielding gas is NOT better than not enough - they can both create identical problems. Use between 18CFH and 25CFH. Less and you lack coverage. More and you could create a vacuum due to torch angle and suck in atmosphere not to mention you are needlessly wasting gas.ScottHaul a bike without straps - visit www.mxtras.com to see how!
Reply:Oh - on the contact tips - use a larger tip than the wire. .040 tip for .035 wire. Open it up with an O/A torch tip cleaner. If you don't have one - get one. Like ZMike said - you will be burning through contact tips. Get plenty of spares. You will likely pop through 5-10 before things fall into place. When the wire pops back, dont even try to pull the trigger - you could end up with a birdnest at the feed rollers. Keep a pair of needle nosed pliers handy to try to pluck the end clear. If it pops back and you know it, unthread the contact tip and either pull it clear of just cut it, then grab a good one and get back in action. At the start of each weld, bump the trigger to make sure it's clear and then trim the wire clean. I have had people insist that a bent wire starts better than a clean cut but I can find no difference other than the cold start has more material in it if you bend the wire.As the contact tip heats up, the ID shrinks. The .035 wire measures a little on the low side but after it is effectively knurled by the drive wheel, it is larger than .035. Combine that with a tip that is just about on size and you have a constriction.Set the drive wheel tension just high enough to feed and use very little spool tension. This is a delicate balance but if your roller tension is too high, it will leave deep impressions on the wire and it will create a fine shavings that will cake up in the short liner and in the contact tip and create problems.Also - I run the nozzle unscrewed about 3/8" from seat. I find that this keeps the tip clearer and the puddle covered.If you use nozzle dip or spatter spray, use it sparingly and wipe all of the excess from the gun.ScottLast edited by MXtras; 02-20-2008 at 02:41 PM.Reason: Added more crapHaul a bike without straps - visit www.mxtras.com to see how!
Reply:What about machines with hot start. I think you need more education on welding because obviously some of your advice is off in the last two previous post. --Gol'
Reply:Originally Posted by Go1lumWhat about machines with hot start. I think you need more education on welding because obviously some of your advice is off in the last two previous post.
Reply:I can't tell you that much on welding aluminum with a mig, but my understanding is that just like sticks you have to run fast and hot. I really do disagree about lack of fusion on the starts on steel with a mig. Been at it a long time and never encountered that problem.The difference between art and craft is the quality of the workmanship. I am an artist.
Reply:Scott, Thanks for stopping in...... I agree about the cleaning issues....to each his / her own but I have done both and for me if it doesn't look like al then clean it..... I cleaned up some 1/8 plate that had been setting outside with wood chips on it for over a yr..... I simply wipped off the mudd and gunk with my hand and had at it....then I did the same ,then brake clean, then a s/s brush , then used compressed air to blow off the brake clean.....guess what I found some of it (brake clean) in the middle of a nice bead the filler balled up and ran around and the arc went to crap.... I tried it a few times and I have my way....try them all to see what you like....
Reply:I have very limited experience with a 30 A spool gun. I notice that the wire really tends to curl in one direction after it leaves the contact tip. Is this common or is it an indication of too much drive wheel tension ? What sound should a properly tuned Alum MIG make? Should there be any crackle or more silent like a spray arc?Also wondering about shielding gases. I was using straight Argon, but I understand that there is a mix available...called Alumshield in my area. I am wondering what eveyone uses? or whether different gases are better for different applications.
Reply:Been welding for awhile, ain't never had a problem with a cold start on mild steel, you must be doing something wrong.
Reply:Originally Posted by TinbasherI have very limited experience with a 30 A spool gun. I notice that the wire really tends to curl in one direction after it leaves the contact tip. Is this common or is it an indication of too much drive wheel tension ? What sound should a properly tuned Alum MIG make? Should there be any crackle or more silent like a spray arc?Also wondering about shielding gases. I was using straight Argon, but I understand that there is a mix available...called Alumshield in my area. I am wondering what eveyone uses? or whether different gases are better for different applications.
Reply:Originally Posted by BiffBeen welding for awhile, ain't never had a problem with a cold start on mild steel, you must be doing something wrong.
Reply:Originally Posted by MXtrasI have been around the block a few times myself. One time, I even went around the big block without my mommy.It's funny that out of all of the comments, some focus on the MIG cold start on mild steel comment. Like it or not, recognize it or not - it's there. The detrimental effects are negligible and it's a far less prominent issue with steel than with aluminum but it's there. Saying it's not doesn't make it go away. Trigger pullers are not likely to agree because it's not something they are typically taught OTJ.When things are right with the 30A, most of what I hear is the feed motor - it seems to be louder than the weld process. The goal with MIG on aluminum is to find that point where the 'frying bacon' sound is just barely there - it will still be there as your bead builds. The sharp, frying crackle sound usually creates spatter - the amount of which is dependent on numerous variables, but if you increase amperage, tweek your wire speed and travel speed until the frying sound just barely goes away, you will likely be laying down a spatter and soot free, smooth bead. This is the edge of spray transfer. If you are going to try spray transfer you will want to bump up your feed roll tension to ensure that there is NO slippage and you want to clean the rollers and liner often. Wire speed is critical as you know. It can be done with the 30A - it's just a touchy thing and you will blow through several tips before you get it down. Keep an eye on the spool tension and make certain the wire doesn't get unwound and loose on the spool. It will work, though. One nice feature of the 30A as compared to the 15A is that the speed control is on the handle making it easy to adjust on the fly. The 15A was panel controlled making it a 2 person job to spray. Speed control was not too good on the 15A, either.As far as the wire curling - I agree and have observed the same thing. It is regardless of the feed roll tension. I have never found it to be an issue, though.Brett answered the shielding gas question quite well. Helium is different but not necessarily better unless you need deeper penetration and a lighter wallet. I prefer 100% Argon but you might like the mix better. You can't go wrong with 100% Argon.Scott
Reply:.052 does seem a bit excessive but hey - give it a whirl.Best of luck to ya!ScottHaul a bike without straps - visit www.mxtras.com to see how!
Reply:Actually when you get your tips they will be for aluminum if you have the spoolmatic 30a (the 15A gun is the same as the 30A except it is only 15' long, otherwise no difference,, ie, the 30a is 30' long)Anyhow, if you have 035 wire, what you'll need is an 040 tip. I'd give you the part#'s but i don't know if you have the old style screw in tip or the new style pop & lock. You'll likely burnup the drive roller using a 052, as the wire has to make contact with the tipStraight Argon is still the best, other mixes are mostly for Stainless and other material.You want to hear a fast makin bacon noise, so on o35, around 7 on the gun speed and 19 - 23 on the voltage controlYou want the tip inside the gas nozzle 1/16"Oh, you don't want to crank the gas too high, stay at around 20cfh, at 30 cfh you'll likely blow the seal in the gun itself.As for wire tightness, as long as the wire curls up nicely in the palm of your hand without slipping that is tight enoughJeffMiller tech.Last edited by Cruizer; 02-22-2008 at 01:41 PM.
Reply:Originally Posted by Guy_48thanks Scott, I will be trying my hand at it over the weekend, I have some fresh miller tips, .052 is apparently recommended with the .035 wire, i find that a bit excessive but I will try it and see what happens, if it gives a good weld and prevents a burn back issue, what the hell, I'm game
Reply:052 IS NOT, REPEAT NOT RECOMMENDED WITH 035 WIRE. Don't know where you got that horse Cr@p, but it's WRONG!The only reason to use an oversize tip is that Aluminum expands at a larger rate than the tip, thus a one over zize tip is 040, not a 6 over tip. you're just asking for trouble.Last edited by Cruizer; 02-23-2008 at 11:06 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by Cruizer052 IS NOT, REPEAT NOT RECOMMENDED WITH 035 WIRE. Don't know where you got that horse Cr@p, but it's WRONG!The only reason to use an oversize tip is that Aluminum expands at a larger rate than the tip, thus a one over zize tip is 040, not a 6 over tip. you're just asking for trouble.
Reply:Guy__48Listen to what Cruizer's telling you.MXtra: You've posted a lot of gobblygook that's not relevent to the posters original question. In reading your posting, it makes me wonder if you've ever even used a spoolgun. For your information (as Cruizer already indicated), the Miller 30A and Miller 15A are exactly the same gun. The only difference is the length of the lead. Both have WFS on the gun. If you'd like, you can come up and see what a 30A looks like hooked up to a Miller MM251. It's actually a great setup for what Guy__48 is doing.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Here are a few trial passes with my 30A spoolgun, Millermatic 252, AL 5356, .035", 100 % argon, 24 volts, 620 IPM, this is first batch of photos, a couple more to come, feel free to tell me what I am doing wrong.thanks Attached ImagesLast edited by Guy_48; 02-23-2008 at 11:16 PM.Guy_48Welding is an art......Millermatic 252Lincoln SP175PlusLincoln 225 AC/DC
Reply:Just did the sums what you call 035 wire we would call 0.9mm.I would and do use a 1.0mm tip ..your .040"0.052 is too big , that is the size I use on 1.2mm wire (0.047"....your 0.045?)A tip that is too large will cause fluctuations in your arc due to on/off electrical connection.It is called a contact tip after all .I must respectfully disagree with Scott re the nozzle .The contact tip and the nozzle should both be firmly screwed or cammed in . This will ensure no gas leaks and a good electrical connection.A good guess is better than a bad measurementbatch number 2, same settings, may have forgot to say, this is 1/4 aluminum.I think I am getting the proper penetration. practice makes perfect.... I forgot to say I wasusing 5356 .035 AL Attached ImagesLast edited by Guy_48; 02-23-2008 at 11:15 PM.Guy_48Welding is an art......Millermatic 252Lincoln SP175PlusLincoln 225 AC/DC
Reply:Originally Posted by Cruizer052 IS NOT, REPEAT NOT RECOMMENDED WITH 035 WIRE. Don't know where you got that horse Cr@p, but it's WRONG!The only reason to use an oversize tip is that Aluminum expands at a larger rate than the tip, thus a one over zize tip is 040, not a 6 over tip. you're just asking for trouble.
Reply:They look good Guy.Bit hard to tell but if your welds are getting flat or concave you may not have enough stick out. The size looks good , you want the leg to be about the same size as the thickness you are welding so across the face of the weld you will be looking for about 8.5-9.0mm or 5/16" (probably got that wrong again.. best check it!) assuming 1/4" or 6mm section.A good guess is better than a bad measurement
Reply:I don't get to read EVERY thread. However, I read all of this one. I can tell of my experience. 1. For the contact tip. I can only get .035 or .045, so I use the .045 for .035 wire. The comments above about the wire curling is why a bigger tip will work. The wire has a natural bend in it and it makes good contact in the tip. For pulsed spray, using .035 STEEL wire with a .045 tip I have had the wire bind up because things got too hot. I was not using enough stick out and had the tip too close to the end of the gas cone, so it got way too hot. The gas cone was glowing red and I could feel the wire binding up in the .045 tip. I think the heat of the wire moves back into the tip and as things heat up, they expand. If the contact tip heats up, the wire will heat up too in the tip. I have no luck at all using the same size tip as the wire with aluminum.2. Cold start. I sure get it on aluminum and its there on steel too, but not as obvious. Here is a pic of some pulsed spray aluminum with the cold start. The bead on the right was just plain too cold for the 1/2" plate.I never thought of starting ahead and backing up. I am going to try that today.Guy, your welds look good from here. The end of the welds could be a little better from what I can see. It looks like there is a little porosity about 1/4 to 1/2" before the end of the weld in the first attempt. Maybe a longer pause at the end to fill the crater a little more.1/4" steel welds need 75% of leg size on both sides of the fillet. This would be a 3/16" leg size, or .265" across the flat of the weld. I am not sure if this rule counts for aluminum. I suggest cutting the fillet and bending it to see how the penetration is. Maybe cut a 1" or 2" section, do a root bend and see what happens.I know nothing about miller spool guns, but I do know having the wire feed adjustment on the spool gun makes life much easier. You can tune the arc as you go. I like to get things set right on a practice piece before I start on what I am welding.I am a lucky dog, I have a bunch of 1/4" diamond plate that I got as scrap to practice on. I will do some fillets today and see if I can make them look as good as yours.DavidReal world weldin. When I grow up I want to be a tig weldor.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIGuy__48Listen to what Cruizer's telling you.MXtra: You've posted a lot of gobblygook that's not relevent to the posters original question. In reading your posting, it makes me wonder if you've ever even used a spoolgun. For your information (as Cruizer already indicated), the Miller 30A and Miller 15A are exactly the same gun. The only difference is the length of the lead. Both have WFS on the gun. If you'd like, you can come up and see what a 30A looks like hooked up to a Miller MM251. It's actually a great setup for what Guy__48 is doing.
Reply:Originally Posted by David RI don't get to read EVERY thread. However, I read all of this one. I can tell of my experience. 1. For the contact tip. I can only get .035 or .045, so I use the .045 for .035 wire. The comments above about the wire curling is why a bigger tip will work. The wire has a natural bend in it and it makes good contact in the tip. For pulsed spray, using .035 STEEL wire with a .045 tip I have had the wire bind up because things got too hot. I was not using enough stick out and had the tip too close to the end of the gas cone, so it got way too hot. The gas cone was glowing red and I could feel the wire binding up in the .045 tip. I think the heat of the wire moves back into the tip and as things heat up, they expand. If the contact tip heats up, the wire will heat up too in the tip. I have no luck at all using the same size tip as the wire with aluminum.
Reply:I just love the way many are quick to say "you are so full of chit" yet none of these folks can come back with any data or experience to back up what they say.The 3035 gun is the one w/o wire feed on the gun. I had to go the shop to look at the guns to refresh my memory.ScottHaul a bike without straps - visit www.mxtras.com to see how!
Reply:Heres a little project I'm doing, building a duck boat for myself. I thought it might be nice to show with this thread. I am using 5086 aluminum for the bottom and sides and 6061 for the rest of the structure. I'm using 5083 .035 wire pure argon off a lincoln!! I put 4 one pound spools down today welding the floor braces in still have two more rolls to go figure I'm going to use 18 pounds of wire on this boat just wanted to share Attached ImagesWELD IT RIGHT OR GO HOME!!!
Reply:Scott,I did take exception with several comments in your postings. You do tend to come across as a "I know more than anyone else does" type of guy. The comments about the 15A gun just confirmed that you were off base.I also know a little about welding aluminum. Have been welding the stuff since the mid 60's (used to build all our fuel cells when we raced for OMC). Most of the aluminum welding I have done over the years has been TIG, but I have had a MM251 w/30A spoolgun for a couple of years so I felt comfortable in advising the OP. Here's a few (you asked) things I think you're off base on.Anyone who's ever tig welded aluminum knows the cleaner the better. The oxides, if not removed will contaminate the weld. With tig it's much easier to see them floating around in the puddle. The more oxides on the surface of aluminum, the greater the chance for inclusion in the weld and reduced strength. We all know we'll never get our material "operating room clean", but a good brushing with a SS brush will go a long way towards removing that dreaded oxide. With that said, proper aluminum prep goes further than "removing the oil and general filth and weld it".The MM251/252 comes standard with adjustable run-in. It can be set both for the regular mig gun or the 30A. Factory settings are 100% for the mig gun and 50% for the spoolgun. They can be adjusted (for either) between 0-150%. A slower run-in allows heat to build prior to the wire reaching full speed, thereby reducing cold starts. With critical welds, starting slightly ahead of the weld, drawing back, and then proceeding with the weld is a good way to minimize cold starts.The 15A and 30A are the only spoolguns recommended for the MM251/252. The machines are "plug and play" for those spoolguns. Both guns have wirespeed adjustment at the gun. The Spoolmate 3035 (150A) and the Spoolmate 3545 (200A) are the recommended spoolguns for the MM210/212 (spoolgun ready) and other machines with a separate controller.A knowledgeable poster would never recommend using a .052 tip with .035 wire. Cruiser has already commented on the potential damage to the drive rollers. I would recommend using the .045 tip in the 30A Spoolgun. Insofar as the binding at the tip, I think you'll find the binding is more due to the wire expanding from the heat of welding or because the drive rollers are set too tight (deforming the wire), than because the tip is "shrinking because of heat".I would never recommend "unscrewing the nozzle by 3/8""from the seat. I can't think of a better way to screw up gas flow. If the weldor is not comfortable with the nozzle/tip setup, different gas diffusers are available which allow for a flush tip, 1/8" recess, or a 1/4" recess.Now on to the actual welding Guy__48 was asking about. For welding 1/4" plate with his equipment (MM252 w/30A) he should be using spray transfer. He's got the amps and wfs (70-875 ipm w/30A) to do it. I'd recommend starting parameters around 23.5V and 550 ipm wfs. Start with a higher wfs and then back off. Will help to prevent burnback. (In fact in his test welds, it looks like they were done in spray vs short arc. The only thing I would recommend is that he try reducing his V's slightly, which will give him a slightly prouder bead--overall though they look pretty darn good).As far as covering gas, 100% argon is recommended up to 1" plate. For 1"-3" plate a 35%Argon/65%Helium mix is recommended, and over 3" a 25%Argon/75%Helium mix is recommended. Of course, the MM252 wouldn't be the machine for over 1" thickness.Don't agree with my comments, then fire away.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIScott,I did take exception with several comments in your postings. You do tend to come across as a "I know more than anyone else does" type of guy. The comments about the 15A gun just confirmed that you were off base.I also know a little about welding aluminum. Have been welding the stuff since the mid 60's (used to build all our fuel cells when we raced for OMC). Most of the aluminum welding I have done over the years has been TIG, but I have had a MM251 w/30A spoolgun for a couple of years so I felt comfortable in advising the OP. Here's a few (you asked) things I think you're off base on.Anyone who's ever tig welded aluminum knows the cleaner the better. The oxides, if not removed will contaminate the weld. With tig it's much easier to see them floating around in the puddle. The more oxides on the surface of aluminum, the greater the chance for inclusion in the weld and reduced strength. We all know we'll never get our material "operating room clean", but a good brushing with a SS brush will go a long way towards removing that dreaded oxide. With that said, proper aluminum prep goes further than "removing the oil and general filth and weld it".The MM251/252 comes standard with adjustable run-in. It can be set both for the regular mig gun or the 30A. Factory settings are 100% for the mig gun and 50% for the spoolgun. They can be adjusted (for either) between 0-150%. A slower run-in allows heat to build prior to the wire reaching full speed, thereby reducing cold starts. With critical welds, starting slightly ahead of the weld, drawing back, and then proceeding with the weld is a good way to minimize cold starts.The 15A and 30A are the only spoolguns recommended for the MM251/252. The machines are "plug and play" for those spoolguns. Both guns have wirespeed adjustment at the gun. The Spoolmate 3035 (150A) and the Spoolmate 3545 (200A) are the recommended spoolguns for the MM210/212 (spoolgun ready) and other machines with a separate controller.A knowledgeable poster would never recommend using a .052 tip with .035 wire. Cruiser has already commented on the potential damage to the drive rollers. I would recommend using the .045 tip in the 30A Spoolgun. Insofar as the binding at the tip, I think you'll find the binding is more due to the wire expanding from the heat of welding or because the drive rollers are set too tight (deforming the wire), than because the tip is "shrinking because of heat".I would never recommend "unscrewing the nozzle by 3/8""from the seat. I can't think of a better way to screw up gas flow. If the weldor is not comfortable with the nozzle/tip setup, different gas diffusers are available which allow for a flush tip, 1/8" recess, or a 1/4" recess.Now on to the actual welding Guy__48 was asking about. For welding 1/4" plate with his equipment (MM252 w/30A) he should be using spray transfer. He's got the amps and wfs (70-875 ipm w/30A) to do it. I'd recommend starting parameters around 23.5V and 550 ipm wfs. Start with a higher wfs and then back off. Will help to prevent burnback. (In fact in his test welds, it looks like they were done in spray vs short arc. The only thing I would recommend is that he try reducing his V's slightly, which will give him a slightly prouder bead--overall though they look pretty darn good).As far as covering gas, 100% argon is recommended up to 1" plate. For 1"-3" plate a 35%Argon/65%Helium mix is recommended, and over 3" a 25%Argon/75%Helium mix is recommended. Of course, the MM252 wouldn't be the machine for over 1" thickness.Don't agree with my comments, then fire away.
Reply:I too have a recently acquired Spoolmatic 30A and was looking in this thread for definitive suggestions on settings for the 30A. I don't think I'd be hijacking the thread to ask that esteemed knowledgeable posters reply to Guy_48's initial question on suggested settings for the 30A with their recommendations specific to the 30A, i.e., using wfs settings from 1-9 (as did MXtras) since the 30A has no ability to set ipm's directly. I understand the need to dial-in the weld after practice on scrap, but the 30A wfs appears to be the only mystery not addressed by Miller's weld calculator which reads out in ips.Thanks
Reply:Originally Posted by DmaxerI too have a recently acquired Spoolmatic 30A and was looking in this thread for definitive suggestions on settings for the 30A. I don't think I'd be hijacking the thread to ask that esteemed knowledgeable posters reply to Guy_48's initial question on suggested settings for the 30A with their recommendations specific to the 30A, i.e., using wfs settings from 1-9 (as did MXtras) since the 30A has no ability to set ipm's directly. I understand the need to dial-in the weld after practice on scrap, but the 30A wfs appears to be the only mystery not addressed by Miller's weld calculator which reads out in ips.Thanks
Reply:Guy__48,What I was actually referring to with the back up was at the start of the weld. Trigger the gun about 1" ahead of where you actually want to start your weld, move back to your intended start point, and go with your weld as normal.Good job describing how to check the wfs on the digital display on the front of the power source.The more you use the 30A, the more you'll grow to like it. I will mention that I added a Bernard Q300 as my main mig gun. With the 15' lead, I like it a lot better than the standard M25 gun. There are occasionally deals on the gun on e-bay. I got mine for about $110.The original advice you got locally about run hot and run fast was really good advice. You'll find that you'll get your best welds in spray on material over about 3/16".Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Alas, I do not own a MM 252. I should have earlier created a sig. with my equip listed. I now have done so; I have an XMT 350 CC/CV that does not reflect the wfs on the 30A because, as most power sources, it has no readout for wfs. That's why I made the request.ScottMiller XMT 350 CC/CV w/gas solenoid opt.Miller S-22A wirefeederBernard 400A "Q" gunMiller Spoolmatic 30A / WC-24C-K 200A torch/gas lensWeldcraft WC-18 watercooled torchHypertherm Powermax 30Victor O/A
Reply:Sundown,I did exactly the same thing, I picked up a new Millermatic 252 and Miller had a trade in option, you could replace the M25 with any Bernard mig gun of your choice, no extra charge, so I got a 15 ft Bernard Q gun with centerfire technology, what a difference. I understand you can convert the 30A to centerfire as well, all you need is the D1 or DS1 adapter, then you can use centerfire tips on your spoolgun. I am contemplating picking that up possibly tomorrow, If I do, I'll snap a few photo's and post them. I went through 3 miller tips in the first half hour, then when I got the machine set up properly I was able to keep a tip on.it's an experience....Guy_48Welding is an art......Millermatic 252Lincoln SP175PlusLincoln 225 AC/DC
Reply:Originally Posted by SundownIIIScott, I would recommend using the .045 tip in the 30A Spoolgun. Insofar as the binding at the tip, I think you'll find the binding is more due to the wire expanding from the heat of welding or because the drive rollers are set too tight (deforming the wire), than because the tip is "shrinking because of heat".
Reply:Understood, Sundown. I appreciate the reply.I will not muddy the thread with anymore of my useless, irrelevant babble.ScottHaul a bike without straps - visit www.mxtras.com to see how!
Reply:come on fellows, what I am getting from this is valuable data. I may not be using everything I read, however, it may be pointing out something that I was already doing wrong or answer my question as to why things were going the way they were. I welcome all views on my posts, we are all in this together, what works for one may not always work for another. This is more relevant when you are new welder like I am....my dad was a welder for 40 years, seen some pretty good jobs he's done but when it comes to this new technology, he's at a loss. I thank you all for spending the time in responding to my questions.Best Regards to allGuy_48Welding is an art......Millermatic 252Lincoln SP175PlusLincoln 225 AC/DC
Reply:Scott,Wasn't trying to be an Ahole. Just that I have a very similar setup to Guy and thought I'd try to steer him in the right direction. That's why these boards are so great. Years ago, unless you had a qualified mentor, tips of the trade were hard to come by. Required a lot of reading and independent research. Guess that's partly the reason I'm so short with some posters who look for answers and are not willing to put forth any effort. I think the manufacturers are partly to blame with their marketing. The guy who goes into a box store, buys a HH140, and automatically thinks he's a weldor. First question on the boards is "how thick will it weld". I think you know what I mean. Proficiency requires effort.In the case of Guy, here's a guy who's made a significant financial commitment to welding and is asking questions, which quite frankly, are not well covered in his owner's manual. For guys like this, I think it's incumbent on us "oldtimers" to try to get him the best info we can. None of us have "all" the answers. The great thing about this field is we are all "just learning". You have a lot of experience and I hope you'll continue to help out on the boards.Brett:Regarding the use of .045 tips with .035 aluminum wire, I think you're safe using this setup on a mig gun also. The reason I said .045 to Guy was that is what I use with my 30A Spoolgun and have had good luck. Miller does make a .040 Heavy Duty FasTip contact tip for the 30A but I have not used them. All contact tips are slightly oversize for their designated wire size so as to not bind. One thing that helps with the spoolgun is that the cast on the wire on 2lb spools is smaller (smaller diameter when unspooled) than on say a 10# spool. I think this smaller cast helps the wire to maintain contact in the tip. I have played with my HH187 without a spoolgun, running 5356 (not 4043--to soft) with 2# spools. Used a .045 tip w/.035 wire and the 10' M10 gun. Works OK, but will birdnest if you turn the gun too much.Bottom line, I think probably 90% of the burnback/tip problems people have with trying to mig aluminum are caused by not maintaining adequate stickout (getting the tip too close to the work). Aluminum is definitely different than steel. Kinda like comparing a 100m dash to a mile run. Takes a little practice cause things happen fast with alum.Hope this helps.Syncro 250 DX Dynasty 200 DXMM 251 w/30A SG XMT 304 w/714 Feeder & Optima PulserHH187Dialarc 250 AC/DCHypertherm PM 1250Smith, Harris, Victor O/ASmith and Thermco Gas MixersAccess to a full fab shop with CNC Plasma, Water Jet, etc.
Reply:Originally Posted by MXtrasUnderstood, Sundown. I appreciate the reply.I will not muddy the thread with anymore of my useless, irrelevant babble.Scott
Reply:Looking forward to trying some of these suggestions as well on Monday. Working on rub rails on a Western 45 footer flatbed. Already welded small light brackets to 2 inch pipe and they are still there. Very much shoot and scoot though. Lots of fun and draws a crowd of experts at my work who tell me it won't stick, but don't have time to show me the right way.... just picked up a 252 last week and super happy with it so far. Great reading gentlemen.
Reply:I also enjoyed reading the thread. Because the thread is about 7 years old, you don't see these guys around anymore and that's a shame.Jerry30+ yrs Army Infantry & Field Artillery, 25 yrs agoMiller 350LX Tig Runner TA 210, spool gunLincoln 250/250 IdealArcESAB PCM 500i PlasmaKazoo 30" vert BSKazoo 9x16 horiz BSClausing 12x24 lathe20T Air Press |
|
发表于 2021-8-31 22:41:15