Mill/Drill questions

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I have been looking to get a mill drill to use in the shop for rebuilding and making parts for farm machinery. I have seen a few come and go locally, as I am looking for used. I have read a few cons on these China made units but I can accept them. The question I have is what to look for when inspecting them. Enco and Rong Fu are two that I have seen maybe for sale. I seen the Rong Fu in a metal shop not being used but was told it still works good. What is the value of these types of units?
Reply:Originally Posted by HamstnI have been looking to get a mill drill to use in the shop for rebuilding and making parts for farm machinery. I have seen a few come and go locally, as I am looking for used. I have read a few cons on these China made units but I can accept them. The question I have is what to look for when inspecting them. Enco and Rong Fu are two that I have seen maybe for sale. I seen the Rong Fu in a metal shop not being used but was told it still works good. What is the value of these types of units?
Reply:The Rong Fu machines are some of the better imports. I have one of thier bench top mills that I picked up used from a small machine shop when they upgraded to a full sized Bridgeport back in the late 80's / early 90's. I'd say mine was easily worth $1000 or so, maybe a bit more if it comes with a fair amount of tooling, decent vice etc. The Enco machines also seem to be of better quality than most.I know my machine came from MSC when the shop 1st bought it, and they tend to carry a fairly decent quality of machines and tooling. Enco is about the same, decent quality imports at fair prices. I've looked at several used  Enco lathes. MSC and Enco usually sell tools and machines to small shops that plan to use them day after day and can't afford to have stuff go down.Used, I usually look at what a similar machine new would cost and then adjust the price based on condition, usually 50%-70% of new for a nice well kept machine..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:i have one of the rong fu copies.  bough it with a table (3/4" alu top) for 480 bucks.mine came with 3 taiwanese R8 collets from grizzly, but when i got a 3/4" collet by Lyndex, the collet wont go in.  Apparently, the stop that goes into the groove of the collet was too big.  I'm in the process of taking out that stop.its great.  i like it a lot.  came with a 220v motor, dont remember the hp rating or anything else.  seems to work well.  I've used it on stainless, steel, alu and some wood.
Reply:A word of experience.   If you look to find a dovetail column  mill drill,it might be a little more money but will save your sanity.  The round column ones lose their zero when you have to raise the head for a tool change. Been there , done that, total PITA.  They are good machines if not pushed beyond their limits.  Fred
Reply:I had a round column mill drill for about 10 years.  Got it from Rutlands in Houston for around $1100.  Came w/ step clamps, drill chuck, collets, vise, face mill, stand.  Added an x-axis power feed.  Worked fine for small plastic and aluminum pieces.  Sold it last year for $850 and bought a 10 x 54 variable speed mill w/ DRO and power feed. Here's what I learned about mill/drills:Raising and lowering the head causes you to lose your xy settings...PITA.Watch out for the brass saddle nut.  They can wear out fast.  I think they're about $75.Check the table play and remember to adjust the gibs but NOT TOO TIGHT or you wear out the saddle nut fast.The xy handles fall off regularly...crappy set screws and aluminum threads in the handles.Changing speeds is another PITA...not like a BP clone...have to loosen nuts, loosen motor mount, change pulleys, tighten everything.Sometimes you get a little vibration in the motor/pully setup...those red, link type belts help out a lot with this.Be sure the bolts holding the column to the bed are tight.Don't be surprised to find bondo under the paint.An x-axis power feed is a real help...about $200 I think.The tooling will easily equal the cost of the mill drill but you only need to add that as you go along and you can use most/all of the tooling on the next mill you buy...at least I did.Have fun.Miller 211 w/ spool gunMiller Dynasty 200DXLongevity 60i IGBT plasmaO/A w/ crappy chinese torch/gaugesSouth Bend 10K latheGrizzly 4029 10x54 millGrizzly 7x12 hor bandsawangle grnders, bench grnder, bench belt sndr7.5 hp 80gal cmprsor
Reply:Originally Posted by metalbndrA word of experience.   If you look to find a dovetail column  mill drill,it might be a little more money but will save your sanity.  The round column ones lose their zero when you have to raise the head for a tool change. Been there , done that, total PITA.  They are good machines if not pushed beyond their limits.  Fred
Reply:Thanks for the replies. I have done more research with the comments and I think the enco is out due to the price he wants. Haven't had time to see about the Rong Fu but it has been well used.I just want to get my feet wet so to speak on as cheap as I can get, build up a collection of tooling and then if and when I out grow the machine I can upgrade. I know a knee or gear type is better but unless one shows up used I can make due. Farming with old equipment and the price of parts now days I want to be able to modify and build my own parts any where I can.