Joining Solid Rod End to End

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I've got some square solid rod (not tube).  It comes in 10' lengths, and I need to make it into one 20' length for a project I am building.  I thought of welding it together end-to-end.  From what I read, I should grind it to almost a point and weld it in many passes until it's filled in fully.  Does anybody have any pictures of how this should be done?  Is this the best way to join the rods end-to-end like that?
Reply:So. Let's see. It's 3 inch thick square D2 and you have a Chen Sing soldering iron ?Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Originally Posted by BurpeeSo. Let's see. It's 3 inch thick square D2 and you have a Chen Sing soldering iron ?
Reply:Sure. That's a way to do it but it might help to say what KIND and size of rod and the welder to be used.The 10 foot part is what threw me. Sounds like some specific steel since regular crap is 20 footers.If it's 2" square 4142HT bar it becomes an entirely different movie. 1/2" hot roll leave a gap and glue it together from 2 sides.Done.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:If it's mild steel round bar I always put it in a lathe and make a "nose" or guide pin on one rod and a "port" or guide hole on the other rod.Stick the male into the female and walah!  You have the highest possibility to get straight welded rods.Miller Dynasty 200DXMiller Spectrum 250DMiller Millermatic 200Bunch of old blue dinosaurs....
Reply:I grind a bevel on both ends and weld like any other flat groove joint (just happens to be a short weld).If it's very thick, I grind a double bevel to help keep it straight when the welds cool.I do not grind a point like a pencil - but I can see why some would like it that way instead.Dave J.Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Neat trick, thanks! Originally Posted by jontheturboguyIf it's mild steel round bar I always put it in a lathe and make a "nose" or guide pin on one rod and a "port" or guide hole on the other rod.Stick the male into the female and walah!  You have the highest possibility to get straight welded rods.
Reply:Here are some different joint preps for welding re-bar. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Is that out of an Ironworkers book from Punk school......Disclaimer; "I am just an a$$hole welder, don't take it personally ."
Reply:Originally Posted by TozziWeldingIs that out of an Ironworkers book from Punk school......
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPHere are some different joint preps for welding re-bar.
Reply:Originally Posted by BurpeeSo. Let's see. It's 3 inch thick square D2 and you have a Chen Sing soldering iron ?
Reply:Originally Posted by porosityHey, that's what I'm looking for.  It's actually 20' in length, the 10' was a typo and it's 1/2" thick square hammered decorative rod.  I'm building a railing for around my deck because the previous owners of the house decided that it was fine to have a deck without any rails whatsoever.
Reply:Originally Posted by porosityHey, that's what I'm looking for.  It's actually 20' in length, the 10' was a typo and it's 1/2" thick square hammered decorative rod.  I'm building a railing for around my deck because the previous owners of the house decided that it was fine to have a deck without any rails whatsoever.
Reply:Originally Posted by BurpeeButt it up tight and braze it. If you're using a stick, gap it and put a piece of copper behind and fill the gap. If it's MIG it should already be done.
Reply:Originally Posted by porosityIt'll probably end up being stick welded in most places, and oxy fuel welded in others.  I don't think I'd like to blind my neighbors with a stray arc flash.