7018 overhead w/ pics

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So I've been practicing 7018 overhead on and off this week.  Ran lincoln excalibur 3/32 at around 80-85 amps.  1/4" plate.  Had plate tacked about 3-4 foot off the floor.  I'm 6'2" so it was a challange at first to get comfortable but I ended up curled up with my right arm wrapped around my right leg in an effort to prop my left handed.  Actually ended up workin pretty well for me after a little getting used to. I had a problem keeping a straight bead throughout the process.  Seems like no matter what I did I kept wandering to my right. Also had a problem with cratering at the end of the plate.  Any advice there would b much appreciated.  Thanks for taking your time to look and I hope you'll b as brutal as any qc ill come across.
Reply:Originally Posted by ct1811had a problem with cratering at the end of the plate.
Reply:Much appreciated.  Ill give it a shot next time
Reply:Try to send clearer pics next time bud, hard to see anything there.I hate being bi-polar it's awsomeMy Heroes Have Always Been Cowboys
Reply:I've often found when people can't weld in a straight line that their position is off and they are trying to "force" it. Often with flat, it means that they are trying to weld say straight left to right, when their natural body motion is more in tight to their body on the left and welding away from themselves as they move to the right. It usually ends up more of a 30 to 45 deg angle vs just straight across.I've seen the same thing with overhead as well. Many times with mig, I weld almost straight back at myself vs right to left, or I'm welding on a steep angle towards myself. You need to find the position take works best for you.It also sounds like your practice position isn't at all optimal, though I've managed to get into some pretty stable positions when the plate has been set at what most would thing of ads "difficult". However for practice while learning, I'd strongly suggest that you get set up in a way that puts all the variables in your favor. Set the piece at a comfortable height and in such a way that you can take the most advantage of any natural supports that might be around ( wall, column add a brace with clamps if need be etc). Why make things any harder than you really need to? Save awkward positions until AFTER you get the basics down. I do encourage guys to practice in odd positions as that's what you'll encounter in the "real" world, but when learning at first, try and keep the variables down as much as possible..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Your input is much appreciated dsw. Sounds like maybe my next to do should be a sliding stand I can practice on. Admittadly I've got a MESS of unistrut and double strut and I've been thinking about Doing something like that with it, but I've just been too lazy to take the time and figure it out and slap it together.  I think I get what your sayin about my wandering beads.  Now that I think about it, it sounds like I'm wandering right because I'm proping on my RIGHT hand which is propped on my RIGHT knee/leg.  Wish I would have thought of that at the time
Reply:Doing long (over 8 inches) stringer beads I tend to drift to the right as well. Until I catch myself and correct it. It's usually with how I'm supporting my stinger hand.The beads look pretty good, but there are spots where you are long arcing, losing your good travel speed, and maybe stuttering in your travel.. like getting caught and then jumping forward. Keep running them and you'll see the improvements.
Reply:As to your comment about getting comfortable it is very important. I also am over six feet tall and in a situation like you are talking, I take a chair and place it on the floor with the back of the chair on the floor and the seat in the vertical position and then use the chair to prop myself up.
Reply:The all important "dry run" comes into play here. Spend 10 minutes getting position and doing fake runs. THEN flip the on switch and let'er rip.Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Originally Posted by ct1811 Sounds like maybe my next to do should be a sliding stand I can practice on.
Reply:The most important thing you can do is to forget that you're welding over your head.  (Well, within reason)You have to look for a puddle that looks identical to a puddle that you see when you're welding flat.  AND FORGET ABOUT SPILLING THE METAL ON YOUR NOGGIN.  You will get the hang of it if you really look at the puddle, and control it.Rod pointed straight up into the steel, with a slight angle towards the puddle.  Drag it with tiny swirly motions.  The swirlies are to allow you to build the profile without dropping a dollop of hot metal on your forehead:  As long as you're not out of the face of the puddle, the swirlies are ok.  BUT THEY'RE TINY.  Just a little manipulation.  You're actually pushing the puddle back a bit, not exiting the puddle.I believe in comfort.  It rocks.  But mostly I believe in doing something that actually matters, not a test coupon.  If the welds are on something that matters, they WILL get done right.  It's not like playing around with repeated runs on a piece of scrap metal.  If it's an actual job, you WILL have to grind out a defective weld.  That is a great teaching tool.  After a while you get tired of grinding, and do it right.  You'd be amazed at how good a weld you can do, when it matters, even though your body is in pain because of an awkward position, or stuff is dropping on your sleeves.  Really.If I had the time to teach someone, I'd probably make them do a few practice runs, then do the real thing.  Then make sure it's done right.  NOthing like holding a grinder over your head to get rid of a crap weld, it makes you do it right.  And it doesn't have to be done in a harsh manner.  Just someone who's patient, and shows you while telling you.  Get sick of people who talk a mean game.  I had a guy show me, talk to me, and give subtle mumbles of disapproval  Actually took about maybe 10 minutes, and the rest was up to me to practice, and DO.  I was shown the right way, (according to Don), and then I developed my own technique (a variation of Don's technique).  We did this on scrap practice metal, then I did the real thing on stuff that had to be right.  My buddy wasn't there after I got back home, so I had to have the discipline to do it right.  It's a matter of someone starting you off on the right track, then learn it for yourself.  Works like a charm.And you better hope it's right if you're behind me on the highway"Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/
Reply:A word on the "dry run".  It's good input.Before you start to weld.........extend your hands to the closest point of the weld you intend to make, then move your hands to the farthest point.  This will give you the proper point to brace your body without running out of "rod room""Any day above ground is a good day"http://www.farmersamm.com/