5G Stick problems

admin

Some how I passed my 6G test (after much practice) but got the hang of it, but now I'm working on 5G and for some reason it's being a real SOB (seems kinda backwards I know). I'm using vertical up progression on root, fill and cover: 6" sch. 40 pipe. On my usual root pass I'll run 3/32 gap 1/8 land with 1/8 6010 rod (100 amps), and while holding at a 90 degree angle all the way around. On 6G I could hold it buried in the gap and with light pressure pretty much drag it up achieving good penetration throughout. With the 5G, it's blasting holes right before the tacks (which are feathered). Obviously it's gaining heat as I go higher but should I be pushing harder into the pipe or pulling out? Im pretty sure it will heat up more if I increase the arc length so idk what to do there. Second, on the fill (3/32 7018 @ 100 amps) on the overhead up to vert I'm having a hard time washing the sides because the gap is so small/gravity is just making it a convexed mess in there. Lastly, On the cover (3/32 7018 @ 100 amps) on the overhead and bottom vert it's giving me the same humped up nonsense or undercut, so I bury the rod but it doesn't seem to help.
Reply:with out drawing you a picture i'll try to explain how i do this at work. once you start your bead when you oscillate your rod step up slightly and pause until the center fills in. next your going across and stepping up to pause. waste no time in the center. your drooping is from over heating and too much metal. best thing is practice. always remember in a weave watch your edges and the middle will take care of it's self. one last image for you is to imagine running only one shoe lace in your boots. that's how you want to travel just not so drastic. and like i said waste no time in the middle unless you are going across a large valley. wish you the best of luck!
Reply:I use a 1/8 gap and 1/8 land for 6010, and whipping motion. There's not a big problem running the root like a stringer bead but you aren't always going to have a tight gap like that. Especially when you aren't doing your own fitting. Get used to doing the root different ways. Learn how to whip and pause too because sometimes, like when you blow a big hole, the only way to fix it is whipping or weaving (the weave, btw, is harder in my experience). But if you don't want to change the way you do it, turn the heat down to around 90 or so and try it again, but a little slower. AND/OR as you get closer to the tack start moving into a drag angle with the heat focused behind the rod. 6010 is one of my favorites to use but it takes some on the fly adjustments. More so than 7018.For 7018, weaving, turn your heat down to 85-90 and try again. Pause longer on the edges of the bevel and stay out of the middle. Since you have a small gap, you really have to "hop" from one side to the other rather quickly. Hold on the sides a bit longer than you usually do. At the same time, you could just go faster. It would require more fill passes, though. For the cap, again lower your heat. 85-90. Make sure your fill is below flush about 1/16. Pause longer on the edges until the puddle creeps over the edges of the bevels and zip over to the other side. Make sure you stay long enough to avoid undercut. 5G is cake once you get your weave right. Even better when you tig root it. Keep the rod in the top third of the puddle. Keep your weave tight. I think that's it really.Post some pictures if you have them. It will be easier to point out what you need to change.(Also, if you use a 1/8 gap and whip and pause, turn down your heat. Anywhere between 75-85 should do it. I usually start with 80 and go from there).Last edited by akabadnews; 10-23-2013 at 05:33 PM.