small shear for material thicker then 16g.

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i'm looking for something that will shear plates up to 1/8" or 3/16" thick and 8 to 12" wide.  I've been seeing a lot of shears that only goes up to 16 gauge, but i like to do something a little heavier, just  not as wide.  manual or powered.any suggestions?
Reply:there are 12" hand shears out there thatsay they cut up to 3/16 plate dont knowhow good they are Attached Images
Reply:http://www.woodwardfab.com/sheet_met...ring_tools.htm
Reply:I have one like the prior poster and it's great.  It has the toggle link in front and curved blade. Have used one with gear link and wasn't impressed.   Also have a HF beverly shear clone for intricate stuff    Fred
Reply:Originally Posted by ed macthere are 12" hand shears out there thatsay they cut up to 3/16 plate dont knowhow good they are
Reply:I have a shear like that.  It does cut accurate.  I added a guide/straight edge and stop for making repeatable cuts.   Mine will cut 1/4 inch plate easil if I extend the handle.   It will cut 1/8" quite easily as is.  Mine is an  8" shear.  Though I does really cut 8".  Usually have to move the material inward for the last 1/2 inch. It will shear larger stuff than 8"  if you feed it in, however I can't cut very accurately when I make multiple cut in the same part.  With a guide the capacity is even smaller 5-6 inches  and blocks you from cutting larger.  Also, the blades are curved so the metal curve slightly when cut.  The curved blades assist in maintaining even pressure throughout the "manual" stroke, however doesn't do much for keeping metal from curving.  My ironworker has nice straight blade and produces flat parts.  It is a nice tool for quick shearing and nipping to fit a few pieces. I still use mine frequently.   I purchased it new off ebay for 50 bucks about 6 yrs ago.  It has been maintenance free.the specs said mine cuts 1/2 in bar. however it did not.  The hole in the die was too small.   Beware of that.  I made a larger die and the shear does have the capacity of cutting 1/2 inch bar. Mine just wasn't setup for that.Last edited by tapwelder; 02-17-2010 at 03:36 AM.
Reply:I got this one several years ago from Horror Fright.  It is 8" but you can feed wider stock.  I have cut a good bit of 1/8" sheet metal as well as a lot of 1/8" bar stock with it.  The round die is apparently 12 mm as it is just a bit too small for 1/2" round stock but will cut whatever mild steel round you can fit in there cleanly.  It really does not look as rusty in real life as it does in this picture, that flash really makes it show up I reckon.  Anyway, this one seems well suited for cutting 1/8".Larry "I feel for the man who cannot spell a word more than one way."  by Mark TwainLincoln AC225-SLincoln Weldpac 100 Miller Matic 180 (auto set)Miller Spectrum 375 ExtremeMiller Spoolmate 100Victor Super Range II
Reply:how much curvature does it to put into the stock after you cut it?
Reply:Mine cuts straight for the length of the jaws, if the cut is wider than that it is up to me to line up the second bite with the first.  The stock remains relatively flat but you may have to curve it yourself in order to gain clearance to feed the stock for a second bite.  It works best if the cut is no longer than the jaws.  Back when I got mine, HF offered a 12 inch model, though more expensive I sometimes wish I had gotten that one.  Problem is now they do not offer them at all, but a search for "plate shear" returns several sources.Last edited by Larwyn; 02-17-2010 at 02:36 PM.Larry "I feel for the man who cannot spell a word more than one way."  by Mark TwainLincoln AC225-SLincoln Weldpac 100 Miller Matic 180 (auto set)Miller Spectrum 375 ExtremeMiller Spoolmate 100Victor Super Range II
Reply:How much are you willing to spend? They make hand held shears that will cut 3/16" MS, but they are spendy. They have nibblers that will cut >3/16"http://www.vansantent.com/sheet_meta...ein_Shears.htm
Reply:those electric/pneumatic hand held nibblers are interesting.  I doubt i would be able to cut a straight line with it though.  I already have a plasma to cut large sheets, but for something like cutting a 9x9" down to several 1.5x2", plasma is overkill and wont be as straight and i'll end up having to grind it down even more...I'm willing to spend up to 180-200 delivered to my door for one of these that will cut up to 3/16" (if i can get a 1/4" capable, then great, not necessary, but would like the headroom)
Reply:Where I used to work, we had a nibbler that could handle 1/4" mild steel.  It was called a Gobbler by the manufacture.  It was big, heavy, noisy, and cost about as much as a plasma cutter that would handle the same thickness (1/4").  It also left a pile of little rectangles about 1/4"x1/8" x the thickness of the material.  Was fun to use but with a full 1/4" kerf, was kind of wasteful.http://www.westwaymachinery.com/modern_gobbler.htmlLarry "I feel for the man who cannot spell a word more than one way."  by Mark TwainLincoln AC225-SLincoln Weldpac 100 Miller Matic 180 (auto set)Miller Spectrum 375 ExtremeMiller Spoolmate 100Victor Super Range II
Reply:Google "Beverly Shear'  Try ebay..
Reply:Mine puts a curve that is noticeable, perhaps a 1/16" arc height, maybe smaller.  Easily flattened, but that is work. The curvature I am referring to is when the metal is viewed from the cut edge.  Or lay  the part on a table and look under the sheared edge.
Reply:Originally Posted by tapwelderMine puts a curve that is noticeable, perhaps a 1/16" arc height, maybe smaller.  Easily flattened, but that is work. The curvature I am referring to is when the metal is viewed from the cut edge.  Or lay  the part on a table and look under the sheared edge.
Reply:A 20 something ton ironworker, like the Scotchman Porta Fab unit would suit your purposes well.
Reply:Like any shear,  the material on the side of the stationary blade will be flat.I have been considering one of these myself for those smaller items.  Plasma can be overkill and I really hate to use the jigsaw if I don't have to.  This would be handy as hell for knocking corners off.My name's not Jim....
Reply:The part on supported side is straight.  If I am just trimming, then I will hold my part on the supported side.  If I am cutting multiple parts from a long piece of metal,  then I feed through the supported side and keep the unsupported part.  That is where the distortion is a problem.  Even cutting two parts from the same piece of metal can be challenging because one part will be curved.     By the way the screw type hold down is a pain.  Sometimes metal gets wedge between it and the blade. making it  difficult to pull the metal out or twist the hold down.