6013 practice

admin

So, I'm at a point that I can spend some hood time practicing. I actually wanted to start this practice time with 6011, but didn't have enough so I went with what I had. This is 1/16 6013 @ 55-60 amps dcen on 1/8 steel.I'm just a newb really. I can stick metal together, but figure it's time to get some hood time in so I can do it a little better. Please provide any constructive criticism you may have. From my pov, I think #11 is starting to get somewhere.Montgomery Ward Powr Kraft AC-DC 230/140
Reply:I agree # 11 looks the most consistent, but the toes look cold. I can't tell if it's just the camera angle and lighting or if the toes really aren't well washed in. Keep on practicing..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:Try 65-70 amps.Is this flat, horizontal, or vertical? I'm assuming flat, but hey.Not all "that" bad, honestly. But I wouldn't give you a job. For a "get things welded around the house" it would work.
Reply:You will find larger rod provides better practice. Easier to be consistent.Try 1/8 6013 on AC around 125 to 135 amps.3/32 is good too.Have fun Dave J.Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~ Syncro 350Invertec v250-sThermal Arc 161 and 300MM210DialarcTried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Reply:Are the toes the start point or the finish? Unless I'm reading my welds backwards and I could be, there is some undercut at the start points. I'll do some more in the morning so I can figure out the difference. Would that mean I need to hold steady a little longer before moving? Or perhaps I'm a bit long with my arc before I'm moving? If I'm reading them backwards and it's at the end of the weld, does that mean I need to back step the weld before ending it? These were done flat. lol, around the house repair is all I do but eventually I would like to get good enough that I might qualify for a job or at least look better than "that'll work ok".I do have some thicker rods I can try too. Am just trying to practice with what I have most of and as I sort of get it figured out I'll move to other sizes and other types of rods. But I do understand these little things are probably not my best starting point.I appreciate the input and I'll try to remember to take the pictures outside in the daylight so  they might be a little better quality.ThanksMontgomery Ward Powr Kraft AC-DC 230/140
Reply:"Toes" are the edges of the weld. What I see are edges that are tall and come down at almost 90 deg to the plate. Toes that are "washed in well" have a softer transition between the side and the plate, almost concave or a gentle slope vs a "cliff" like I think I'm seeing.I agree a larger rod would be more helpful and you need more amps if you go that route. If you go with say 3/32" rods you need to jump it up to around 95 amps. 1/8" rods say around 125 amps DC. 6013 is a "drag rod" and at those amps, you should be able to run decent beads by just keeping the flux on the rod in contact with the plate. To run larger rods, you'll need to use thicker plate as well. 1/4" to 3/8" would be a good choice..No government ever voluntarily reduces itself in size. Government programs, once launched, never disappear. Actually, a government bureau is the nearest thing to eternal life we'll ever see on this earth! Ronald Reagan
Reply:This morning I ran a bunch more of the 1/16 rod. Then I flipped it over and decided to run some 3/32 6013 on the 1/8 plate at about 95 amps. Much to my surprise and embarrassment, I read the amps from the ac low when I previously set it and not from the dc side. In actuality I did all those 1/16 rods around 35-40amp. I proceeded with some of the bigger rods at the 95 amp range and they ran a lot different. A lot less splatter for one. Anyhow, look em over and give me your thoughts. My 3yr old kept popping out the door on 9 & 10 so I was distracted out of concern for him. I have a tendency to weave a little and noticed the narrower non-woven beads are a little better (I think). I am also alternating from right handed to left handed (most of the time), I am left handed normally and I think those welds might be a little better too.Montgomery Ward Powr Kraft AC-DC 230/140
Reply:looking better.  From the ripples in you weld bead, it looks like you are angling your rod too much.  That <<<<< look comes from with too low of an angle.  you want the rod almost 90 degrees to the parent metal.  you only want to decrease your angle enough to keep the slag from running in front of your weld pool.  Looks good other than that.
Reply:I blew up my screen picture and can see some undercutting, but I can't tell much due to my eyes are giving me fits lately.
Reply:Ok, thanks. I guess I'm probably arching long on the sides from the too low of an angle. When I get a little more time, I'll get back out there and try to straighten up and see if it improves things. I had read that you need some angle with 6013 to keep the slag behind the puddle and since I'd seen a lot of slag inclusions in my early attempts with 6013, I guess I'm overcompensating now.Montgomery Ward Powr Kraft AC-DC 230/140
Reply:Originally Posted by tinyOk, thanks. I guess I'm probably arching long on the sides from the too low of an angle. When I get a little more time, I'll get back out there and try to straighten up and see if it improves things. I had read that you need some angle with 6013 to keep the slag behind the puddle and since I'd seen a lot of slag inclusions in my early attempts with 6013, I guess I'm overcompensating now.