6010 fit ups on pipe,, what works for you?

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I was just curious .... using 6010 for your roots, what fit up and amps work best for you with 2", 4", 6" 8 and/or 10" sch 40 and/or 803/32 or 1/8 rods? 3/32 or 1/8 land? 65-75 amps? 1/8 gap rod and root tack so gap shrinks to tight 1/8 or 3/32? or use slug tacks (or whichever they're called where your from?)in position a different fit up then rolling?anyway.. feel free to answer if you'd like, the information would be great
Reply:if i'm fitting most times i use a blade from an automatic hack saw as a gap guide. about 90 amps with a 1/8" 5p. if our steamfitters are setting it up all bet's are off because it could go from no gap to the first knuckles of my fingersi.u.o.e. # 15queens, ny and sunny fla
Reply:what size land? in position or rolling? root tacked or slugged? what size pipe?Last edited by then3wguy; 04-05-2015 at 07:37 PM.
Reply:for 4" and up my preference is 3/32 gap, 3/32 land and run 1/8" rod between 85 and 90 amps depending on the machine and position. Under 4" I use about the same fit but switch to 3/32 rod 60-65amps. Smaller pipe esp sch40 is harder IMO. easy to get it too hot. I never had the luxury of doing any rolled out joints, in fact I rarely had the luxury of welding pipe in a reasonable position. TAKE YOUR TIME WITH THE FIT. it will pay you back when you start welding.www.facebook.com/gstreetworksLincoln Power Mig 210 Miller Maxstar 150Lincoln Idealarc 250/250 G Street Works LLC
Reply:what is "slugged"?www.facebook.com/gstreetworksLincoln Power Mig 210 Miller Maxstar 150Lincoln Idealarc 250/250 G Street Works LLC
Reply:I think you got to go with what you get and make it work not just find a best case scenario.
Reply:Originally Posted by then3wguywhat size land? in position or rolling? root tacked or slugged? what size pipe?
Reply:Prefab work on stands is gravy work . Almost perfect working conditions if inside, outside is another story. I like 3/32 gap on 3'' and down, 1/8'' on 4'' and up. Most of our work was hydronic heating , chilled water,  condenser water , and steam with carbon steel. As for heat, some of the older machines were set by feel. The numbers were faded so you just set to your desire until it felt right. All machines run different so exact heat settings are tough. There were always pencil or soapstone marks that each guy labeled to his sweet spot on the engine drive machines. Most fun is when cutting a tee in to a existing main. You mark one line and then cut. If it springs open you adjust the next cut and live with what you get. Sometimes guys forget some of those little lines on a rule and you can stick your channel locks in the gap.   It's all about practice and you need to just do it. After years of experience it really doesn't matter ; just go round and round.
Reply:Lots written about gap/land/heat.  Do a search,  and come back with more specific questions.  Recommend using small wedges to help maintain gap.  Little guys less then two inches long.
Reply:Originally Posted by BD1Prefab work on stands is gravy work . Almost perfect working conditions if inside, outside is another story. I like 3/32 gap on 3'' and down, 1/8'' on 4'' and up. Most of our work was hydronic heating , chilled water,  condenser water , and steam with carbon steel. As for heat, some of the older machines were set by feel. The numbers were faded so you just set to your desire until it felt right. All machines run different so exact heat settings are tough. There were always pencil or soapstone marks that each guy labeled to his sweet spot on the engine drive machines. Most fun is when cutting a tee in to a existing main. You mark one line and then cut. If it springs open you adjust the next cut and live with what you get. Sometimes guys forget some of those little lines on a rule and you can stick your channel locks in the gap.   It's all about practice and you need to just do it. After years of experience it really doesn't matter ; just go round and round.