Need advice on welding 22R Toyota engine block that craked

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A friend of mine just finished rebuilding a 22R Toyota engine for his neighbor.  The neighbor received a part in the mail that fit in a threaded hole on the engine block and tried to install it himself.  He applied too much torque tightening this fitting and the "fitting" broke.  My friend was using a Screw Extractor to remove the threaded piece that was inserted into the threaded engine block and the "block" cracked.  I believe the engine is cast metal?  The block is clean, other than paint, and no fluid of any type has been placed in it so far.  I would really appreciate some input on how to weld this.  Ive repaired cast metal printing press plates before, ground out the crack, used a special stick rod, preheat, and let it cool slow by keeping it covered.  It worked. But I have not welded something quite like this before.  As anyone used JB weld, or some other epoxy on something like this, or is welding it the best option?Thanks,GarLincoln Electric, Power MIG 256Hypertherm Powermax 45 Miller Dynasty 280DXSmith O/A torchGenesis of a welding table
Reply:That's an oil galley in there. You hook your oil pressure gauge to that hole. Probably braze. You could braze a bung to it. I would practice on junk blocks to see if they crack. Maybe even magnuflex it to be sure
Reply:That does look like an oil passage so you don't want and grindings-junk to get in there. I've repaired bolt bosses on cast iron blocks snapped off from collision damage that look more like the 2 on the right using nickel stick and the cold method. The cold process is grind out, weld a little at a time with the nickel, peen the weld, let cool and repeat until done. You never put a lot of heat in and don't weld again until you can touch it. You may need to determine where that oil passage starts and stops and figure a way to clean it out when all is done.Last edited by metalman21; 04-09-2015 at 10:13 PM.
Reply:Epoxy.
Reply:Scotch tape
Reply:i wish i could help more but here is what i know.the chances of the block being brand new are very low. if it is a new casting it is likely junk anyway. cant beat the toyo originals. it is likely remaned and "soaked" with oilit is cast iron if originalyour friends are some of a proud few people who managed to cripple one of these lol. i myself have put a 22re through all kinds of hell with stripped/ broken bolts, helicoils, etcgood luck, hope to hear it run!!bosses stuff:trailblazer 325maxstar 200my stuff:sa 200fronius transpocket 180100 amp Lincoln w/f97 f350 DITKevin
Reply:I agree with moto your best bet is dremel it alittle to clean it out then use some brazing rod on it will hold as good as welding will with a less of a chance of getting to hot.  I should work just fine
Reply:You gota be able to keep the threads in good shape. After brazing you should run a tsp through there. Any little particles will go to the oil filter. But stick a rag or plug in the will grinding. Is this being welded with the motor assembled?
Reply:I would tig the cracks as others have said with a nickel rod. Less heat input and more control then brazing.
Reply:Originally Posted by b00mhowerScotch tape
Reply:I've seen epoxy last for many years on cracks that were through the water jacket, and that was on MARINE engines using raw (salt) seawater for cooling.Scotch tape...not so much.
Reply:Scotch tape won't work. Black electrical tape is the way to go.You get what you put in and people get what they deserve...
Reply:pretty sure you need at least the 4" wide duct tape to fix that. the 3" stuff might work but will probably peel off easier?