Getting the jump on pipe

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Hey guys gonna take the next three weeks to burn some rods on 6-8" sch 80 pipe. Iv got about 3' of material. Each piece is about 4-5"s wide. 6010 or 6011 for my root? And 7018 Excalibur's for my fill and cap. How many pounds of rod do you think I should get or each?Sent from my Nexus 4 using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:do you have an ac or dc machine to practice on? If you only have an ac machine then get 6011 if you have a machine that's dc use 6010. I honestly have used both rods their really interchangeable as in weld characteristics,amperage, etc.Lincoln pro core 125 14''chop saw7 inch grinder,2-4.5 inch grinders,electric die grinder.Half inch drillAnd alot of hand tools
Reply:Asking these questions, tells me you are just getting into open root pipe welding? So you're gonna need a lot more pipe, maybe 40-feet, and a couple hundred pounds of each rod. Once that is all burned up you'll just about have an understanding of pipe welding. Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:I would get 10 pounds of each in 3-32 and 1-8 inch  in each and try both sizes . I would assume you are running DC so 6010 although 6011 runs fine on DC as well.Miller xmt304,  Miller S22 p12, Miier Maxstar SD, Miller 252 w 30A, Miller super32p12, Lincoln Ranger 9, Thermal Arc 181I with spoolgun, Hypertherm 10000 ,Smith torches. Esab 161lts miniarc.
Reply:Ok. Sounds good to me. I was thinking 1/8" though. Because Thats what the  cert. Test will be taken with.Sent from my Nexus 4 using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:Yea CEP. I am. First class's start January 5th I think. Just wanna get a jump on it. So I dont look like a tool. Sent from my Nexus 4 using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:Are you going to work on 6-G, 5-G, or both?Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:6gSent from my Nexus 4 using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:Start with open root plates, much cheaper and easier to set up.Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Originally Posted by SquirmyPugStart with open root plates, much cheaper and easier to set up.
Reply:5-6 years experience with stick everyday. Plus schooling etc.Sent from my Nexus 4 using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:Might as well twist things . How about a 7016 root  ?One step forward and two steps back ? Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Google: " Sorry. Our servers are currently backed up due to 7016 errorzzzzzzzzzzz." Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Originally Posted by BurpeeMight as well twist things . How about a 7016 root  ?One step forward and two steps back ?
Reply:Old fart !Bubble gumTooth pixDuct tapeBlack glueGBMF hammerScrew gun --bad battery (see above)
Reply:Originally Posted by BurpeeOld fart !
Reply:Dang.... Good stuff!Sent from my Nexus 4 using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by the_guyDang.... Good stuff!
Reply:1/8 6010, 3/32 7018. A tight 1/8" gap, 1/8" land on the coupons. I prefer a 30 degree bevel but between 30 and 37 is acceptable. The 6010, if you've never ran one before, will be your biggest PITA. Especially the tie ins. Make sure you feather the leading and ending edges of your tacks.Take your time fitting and tacking. Quarter weld it, as in, bottom right quarter, top left quarter, bottom left quarter, top right quarter.You may want to have a small wedge or flat head and a hammer, in case one end of your gap tightens up. A dead blow hammer is handy as well. Bury the 6010 into the root opening so that no flame/sparks/etc. is shooting out of the gap. It should all be directed inside of the pipe and you'll get a nice "whooshing sizzle" sound. Or you can screw the 6010 and tig root it. But I also recommend doing open root with plate first. A lot of structural stick is done with backing bars and such.
Reply:if half the union pipe welders welded half as good as you do on an off day (if you ever have one-ha) they would have something to brag about.
Reply:Originally Posted by dbl612if half the union pipe welders welded half as good as you do on an off day (if you ever have one-ha) they would have something to brag about.
Reply:I'm hoping to one day call myself a REAL WELDER!! Sent from my Nexus 4 using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by the_guyI'm hoping to one day call myself a REAL WELDER!!
Reply:Yea man. Iv noticed. Sounds good to me.Sent from my Nexus 4 using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by the_guy6gSent from my Nexus 4 using TapatalkOriginally Posted by ShortbusWelderI would practice more 2g and 5g than 6g. Reason being most welds in the field are 2 and 5 g.  One can qualify by taking both 2 and 5 g tests, but they give out the 6 g because it qualifies you for both positions with one test, which is saving money, by not doing two tests.. I'm not saying don't practice 6g, but I would practice the other two positions as well. I teach the studentsm 2g, 6g, than 5g. Most find 5g harder than 6g, but that's just my observation. If you want to get good, procure some pipe, all different sizes, and start welding, once you fill out the joints, pad the pipe with 10 rods , as well as, 18 rods. This way your not wasting all the pipe on just grooves..
Reply:Originally Posted by the_guyPad the pipe?Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk
Reply:O ok. Sounds good Sent from my Nexus 4 using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:Here's how I set my pipe up to weld. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Is that a grinder being used or beveller?Sent from my Nexus 4 using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:9-inch grinder. I can put a 37 1/2-degree bevel on a 6-inch sch. 80 pipe in just a couple minutes. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Damn lol. I'm ready I'm readySent from my Nexus 4 using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:Sometimes on Craigs list you can find those Ridgid 300 power heads cheap. That one was given to me. That is a 6-inch wood lathe chuck in the power head.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:I'll definitely keep my eyes openSent from my Nexus 4 using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:Get yourself a Mill Hog   I used one a while ago, they are pretty cool Airco Ac/Dc 300 HeliwelderMillerMatic 200 (stolen)Miller Maxstar 150STLMiller AEAD200LE (welding and generating power) Hobart MIG
Reply:Never seen one! Wonder what they cost? Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Originally Posted by CEPNever seen one! Wonder what they cost?
Reply:Originally Posted by ShortbusWelderThis way your not wasting all the pipe on just grooves..
Reply:Originally Posted by DSWThey usually have the students recut the pipe just on either side of the welds at the tech school with the Ellis saw. That way they only loose a small portion each time when they run out a joint. When the pipes get too small, they leave the bead and then weld two "shorts" together and then start recutting.  They try and get every inch out of the pipe they get A: because of the cost, and B: because of the time requirement to cut new coupons.
Reply:Yes I agree %100. I wanna know the old ways and put them to use. Keep them alive so to speakSent from my Nexus 4 using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:Originally Posted by the_guyYes I agree %100. I wanna know the old ways and put them to use. Keep them alive so to speak
Reply:Yea iV heard  stuff like that before. No bueno!Sent from my Nexus 4 using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:I just got 6g cert not to long ago with 60XX and 70XX, I used 6010 and 7018 both dcep. I found getting comfy with whatever was laying around and welding it 5g got me consistent with my roots.tried welding first with a 3/32" gap and 1/8" 6010 rod and got ok with roots. getting ready to test my inspector asked if I would fit it tight and use 3/32 6010. more practice with that got me ok again. the problem with running tight and 3/32" rod is it is burns itself out really quick, took me about 90amps to get consistent burn through. you get to use half the rod before it turns into a buttery soft mess. make sure the inspector isn't going to be a dick about fitup and rod size selection before you get comfortable with a certain fitup.after roots are good, a nice tight "hotpass" with 1/8" 6010 gives you a great starting point to run 7018. imo, guys that say 3/32" 7018 is "baby rod" are very experienced and need not be listened too. run 3/32! it is so much easier! and though you may not need to start it on your 3rd pass, it is good to at least practice with it deep inside the bevel as it will teach worlds to you about undercut and slag inclusions. if during test they will let you fill with 6010 and only cap with 7018, the test will be a cakewalk
Reply:For 6-G I just use my little finger on my left hand to brace myself. I've seen guys use chain vice grips, and pipe wrenches too. Attached ImagesDon’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Yea. Getting comfortable is most def. A big part.Sent from my Nexus 4 using TapatalkUsing Tapatalk
Reply:A trick a old union hand taught me is to shorten the rod a little.   Helps me steady my hand and focus better on the quality of my passes.   I clamp the rod right where the numbers are 6010 or 7018 and bend it around the clamp till you get the angle u want.  Work it back and forth a couple of times while in the clamp and the slag falls out of the way.  If your running uphill your prob not going to use the whole rod anyway.  (Running 6 to 9 and 6 to 3 oclock.)I was taught not to run from 6 to 12 oclock uphill, mostly because the pipe gets to hot.    Is that what most of you do too?  I know everyone has their tricks.“I'm going to do the thing that God put Galen Beasley on this Earth to do:Have Salon quality hair and weld.Nothing like a good cup of coffee and the smell of 6010 burning in the morning. 971-204-3444 cell API ASME Structural NDT and Repair
Reply:For the root pass I very seldom weld a half at one time. I generally weld opposing quarters. 6 to 9, 3 to 12. I always weld the tightest gap first! For the hot pass, fill, and cap I weld from 6 to12.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Not a pipe welder, but sometimes it is what puts groceries on the table. Always wanting to learn more. CEP why do you weld the tightest gap first? I would probably start with the biggest gap.
Reply:Because the pipe always draws / shrinks up tight. Weld the tightest gap first, when the pipe draws, you'll have a better attitude to the next section. If the pipe closes up to tight you can always take a zip disc to slice it open again.Don’t pay any attention to meI’m just a hobbyist!CarlDynasty 300V350-Pro w/pulseSG Spool gun1937 IdealArc-300PowerArc 200ST3 SA-200sVantage 400
Reply:Okay that makes sense, I was thinking of the heat that the welding would impart in the pipe and making it harder to fill the gap with out blowing thru.