Floor and Trunk Panel Replacement--Butt or Lap Weld?

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Gents--a buddy has asked if I would weld in a new floor and trunk into a 67 Mustang he is restoring (it's not a concourse restoration more of a "weekend driver"). Old stuff is rust out in places.  He's doing a ground up restoration. I ain't much of a body and fender man and have not welded up car panels before.  I was going to plasma cut the old rusted stuff out then MIG the replacement panels. So here's the question--go for a butt joint new panel to solid existing material or lap joint and weld both sides?  If its a lap I am assuming Clecos would be helpful. As always, thanks for sharing your experience and suggestions it is much appreciated.
Reply:You will not know the answers to any of this until you get it apart..Ground clean and ready to go..Post pics and we'll take it from there..You are in for a learning experience going into this that's for sure.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I hate to say it, but I'm becoming more and more convinced that panel bonding adhesive is the way to go.The stuff holds and seals  wide areas and is fiercely strong, much more so than small marginal welds on marginal metal. Good Luck
Reply:Panels are drilled off with a spot weld cutter. I post on welding method the other day, the traditional way. Yep, panel bonding is coming on fast. Some of the most high tech jets are bonded together and stay together.Tough as nails and damn near as smart
Reply:Originally Posted by denrepI hate to say it, but I'm becoming more and more convinced that panel bonding adhesive is the way to go.The stuff holds and seals  wide areas and is fiercely strong, much more so than small marginal welds on marginal metal. Good Luck
Reply:Originally Posted by dave powelsonWhat brand names and product numbers would Alfred recco for panel bonding adhesives?
Reply:Originally Posted by denrepAlfred will look at a tube to get the pacifics, but the stuff we use is made by 3-M and is dispensed with a special "double barrel"  caulk gun type of affair.I believe that there are a few different formulas of the product, depending on application.I'm not sure what the differences are, maybe viscosity and curing time.I know what some of you may be thinking, because about the first fifty times I heard panel gluing mentioned it went through the ears without even slowing down. But the adhesive actually makes an incredibly strong bond. I'd bet that in a sheet metal pull-off of a typical body seam repair, a weld or the base metal would rip out before the adhesive bond let go.IF this posts, we'll get Alfred to post a picture. Good Luck
Reply:Well, this is WELDingweb, so maybe we should rename it "two part isothermic brazing".Jumping from that silliness, I've got a question.  Would the joint parameters for these bonded panels look something like a brazed joint?
Reply:Originally Posted by dave powelsonAdhesive bonding has come into it's own realm for many applications...and this 'radical' departure, is typically done after exhaustive stress cycletesting. The bonding distributes stress over much greater areaand has some elasticity by itself, all of which add to fatigue life--which mechanical fastening/welding can't do; especiallyon relatively thin sheet structures or dis-similar materials.I'm a believer in it--for certain applications.I'm asking for specifics that you've found to work.
Reply:do what you do the best atyou may have to do bothi did my nova Attached Images