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Hi,After googling for info on airline plumbing I'm confused - would appreciate some expert advice:For copper plumbing, I understand I need to look for "hard copper" pipe /parts?Where do I look for this - gas related supplies ?Is it correct that only brazing is OK for airline - I have only a gas burner/am getting a TIG (no oxy) - what are my options (are there also compression fittings) ?For black pipe - over here I can see black pipe mentioned in relation to gas installations - is this the right pipe ?  Are the joints also black or plated / am I supposed to cut the threads/how is it joined ?
Reply:Read here http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=23088The black pipe used for home natural gas piping is usually fine for home compressed air lines.Note: those pipes are NOT-NOT-NOT for high pressure uses, like from a compressed gas cylinder.  Around here (USA), black pipe and its fittings are usually rated to about 120-150 psi pressure.  Gas line pressure in a home is usually a small single-digit psi number.  Pressure from a 'welding' cylinder of gas can be in the hundeds of psi to around 2500 psi or so.How to join copper plumbing pipe?  There are different fittings that can be used, or you can solder things together.  How to join black pipe?  There are different fittings that can be used, the most common joining method around here (USA) is the pipes are threaded on the ends and then screwed into the fittings with some pipe 'goop' on the threads to help seal things from leaking.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Originally Posted by MoonRiseRead here http://weldingweb.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=23088The black pipe used for home natural gas piping is usually fine for home compressed air lines.Note: those pipes are NOT-NOT-NOT for high pressure uses, like from a compressed gas cylinder.  Around here (USA), black pipe and its fittings are usually rated to about 120-150 psi pressure.  Gas line pressure in a home is usually a small single-digit psi number.  Pressure from a 'welding' cylinder of gas can be in the hundeds of psi to around 2500 psi or so.How to join copper plumbing pipe?  There are different fittings that can be used, or you can solder things together.  How to join black pipe?  There are different fittings that can be used, the most common joining method around here (USA) is the pipes are threaded on the ends and then screwed into the fittings with some pipe 'goop' on the threads to help seal things from leaking.
Reply:Originally Posted by vjekoHi,After googling for info on airline plumbing I'm confused - would appreciate some expert advice:For copper plumbing, I understand I need to look for "hard copper" pipe /parts?Where do I look for this - gas related supplies ?Is it correct that only brazing is OK for airline - I have only a gas burner/am getting a TIG (no oxy) - what are my options (are there also compression fittings) ?For black pipe - over here I can see black pipe mentioned in relation to gas installations - is this the right pipe ?  Are the joints also black or plated / am I supposed to cut the threads/how is it joined ?
Reply:All the info is much appreciated !!!OK, so enlpck (hard name to remember/even harder to pronunce ) confirmed I can use soft solder as I won't be doing any alterations to piping from the compressor to the tank but rather only after the tank - so I can use my gas bottle/don't need an oxy setup I forgot to ask :- the ball valves (presumably brass) also go on with the same solder ?- have read that teflon which is dislodged from a joint can cause problems if it gets to a plasma unit - what can one use instead of teflon tape on fast connects etc. (I mention this as it could be important but then again it could be misinformation which there is a bit of on the web) ?
Reply:I use pipe dope instead of teflon tape.  The same stuff used for natural gas plumbing in the house, which BTW, has things that are much more sensitive to little scraps of teflon flying around than any air tool.  Rectorseal #5 is my favorite.  Only required on the male threads (put it on the female side, and it will get pushed into the pipe).Any plasma should have a small filter/separator at a minimum, right at its inlet, just to catch this kind of junk in the lines.
Reply:I myself would never use copper for air lines only black pipe. Use a 3" piece at the compressor then a ball valve another 3" piece and a T put a 12" piece stright down from the T and put a auto drain valve this will keep about 90% of the water out of your air system. My compressor is in its own building outside the shop were the pipe comes in the shop I have a big auto drain filter and small trap filters at each air outlet this keeps my air system clean and dry.
Reply:Originally Posted by mechanic416I myself would never use copper for air lines only black pipe.
Reply:i guess i'll chime in too.. lol.. anything 2" and under, you can sweat.. anything 2 1/2 or over, you need to silver solder (sil-fos).. this is all i'm doing at work for about 3 months.. copper, copper, copper.. ugh.. when silver soldering, you don't need to clean the pipe (well.. it don't need mud all over it) and you don't need flux.. sweating, you need to clean both pipe and fitting, and you need flux (nokorode.. stay away from laco brand.. it sucks..) copper is pretty expensive man, but like they say, it's waaaay cleaner..  as far as valves go.. sweating them ain't gonna hurt them.. the teflon in them will be fine.. if you are worried though, get gate valves instead of ball valves... no teflon at all in 'em.. copper ain't too bad cost-wise.. it's a bit more expensive, but in the long run, you ain't got oils, dope/tape all up in the lines, etc... and don't forget that when you order hangers and stuff like that, make sure you specify it's for copper since tubing is measured by o.d., and pipe is measured by i.d. .. what size line are you gonna run... oh.. and make sure you put in a drip leg...if you're not livin on the edge, you're takin up too much room..
Reply:Is there a reason for not using PVC, I hear not to use it but I know of 3 shops that have been using it for at least 5 years now.SteveLast edited by Stircrazy; 03-09-2010 at 12:39 PM.
Reply:I'm sure others will jump in...Shock hazard, it can explode if hit hard enough, sending jagged pieces averywhere.  Chemical (oil in the lines, chemicals sprayed on the outside) can weaken it causing the same.   Ditto on cold, and it can do it if it is substantially aged.  Don't know about you, but I'm not keen on having plastic daggers hurled at me....I've just ordered a 31 CFM Speedaire from Grainger and I'll be using copper... Originally Posted by StircrazyIs there a reason for not using PVC, I hear not to use it but I know of 3 shops that have been using it for at least 5 years now.Steve
Reply:UV in sunlight also breaks down PVC slowly.As for sweating in valves:If you think you're going to be replacing the valve, then either get one of those newfangled valves that has a union built into both sides, or sweat in threaded connections and use a threaded valve.The heat shouldn't hurt a teflon seat so long as you don't seriously overheat the valve, but don't count on being able to reliably re-use valves.Also, try to make sure that the valve is either fully open, or fully closed when sweating (of course, if the valve is closed, be sure there is another opening in the plumbing somewhere for pressure to escape).  If the valve is set at an angle, the pressure of the ball on the softened seat, can leave an impression, that lets the valve leak.
Reply:Hmmm, why not use PVC for compressed air lines?Because it is typically NOT rated for such use.  By the manufacturer's of the pipe and the fitings.http://www.cresline-west.com/pdf/cre...ipe/nwpvc3.pdfhttp://www.ppfahome.org/pvc/index.htmlhttp://plasticpipe.org/pdf/recommend...ressed_gas.pdfWhy?Because PVC is a brittle material.  Age, cold(er) temperatures, sunlight, oil, and other environmental factor all contribute to the brittle nature and failure mode of PVC items.Why does that matter?Because a compressed media (air in this case) stores an INCREDIBLE amount of energy in the compresssed air/gas.  If (more like when) the brittle plastic has a failure, all that compressed gas expands suddenly and propels the broken plastic with lots of speed and vigor.  Trick question, what do you call sharp pieces of broken plastic flying at high speed?  Shrapnel.Also why not use PVC in compressed air/gas systems?  It's against the safety rules per OSHA and other safety rule groups.  (certain exemptions apply, but typically by the time you comply with all the required safety 'guards' to use the brittle failure-prone PVC for compressed air/gas service you could have used metal piping/tubing and been done with it).http://www.transairpipe.com/pvc_hazard.htm  (easier link than going through the OSHA website, but it is there too)Try a search engine like Google and type in "pvc compressed air fail".  I won't fill this page with all the resultant information from such a search.Or try searching this forum for "PVC air" under my name and go to those links that I have previously posted.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:Originally Posted by rlitmanAs for sweating in valves:If you think you're going to be replacing the valve, then either get one of those newfangled valves that has a union built into both sides, or sweat in threaded connections and use a threaded valve.The heat shouldn't hurt a teflon seat so long as you don't seriously overheat the valve, but don't count on being able to reliably re-use valves.Also, try to make sure that the valve is either fully open, or fully closed when sweating (of course, if the valve is closed, be sure there is another opening in the plumbing somewhere for pressure to escape).  If the valve is set at an angle, the pressure of the ball on the softened seat, can leave an impression, that lets the valve leak.
Reply:Might be overkill..but I'd use brass fittings with copper nickle pipe...works very well for a couple hundred US Navy ships..
Reply:Like a dummy, I was thinking hydraulic lines on a plane. They don't pay me to think here...they keep me locked in this cage, and feed me 2 times a day.Now that I understand what you're asking, use galv. pipe if rust is a big concern. Copper if you can spend on it. PVC if you're flat broke, and need something to hold you over. Paint the PVC with latex paint, and the sunlight embrittlement argument goes away. Keep the pressure at less than 120, be sure to primer the fittings and then glue them. It works just fine.And then, after so much work...... you have it in your hand, and you look over to your side...... and the runner has run off. Leaving you holding the prize, wondering when the runner will return.
Reply:Rojo,Do not use galvanized pipe for airlines, the zinc flakes off and plugs things up.Do not use PVC for airlines, see my post above.The big-BIG problem with PVC for compressed gas usage (airlines included) is its brittle and unpredictable nature.  It could be fine for literally years, and then just catastrophically turns itself into a shrapnel grenade one day.  Or you bump into it with something and it shatters.  Or it is a little bit colder in the shop (well, maybe -that- aspect isn't to much of a concern in SoCal  ) and it shatters.  Or it is a little bit colder and there was a little bit of oil vapor from the compressor and some sunlight was shining though the open door and you bump into it with something and  Blammo!  It shatters.  PVC used in an airline could explode quickly, or it could seem to be fine for years and then explode.  Unpredictable and brittle is b-a-d.If you are poor or cheap, save up and just use the 'right' stuff.  Medical bills or pain/suffering/death aren't inexpensive.  In a business environment, not only would there be the destruction and the possible medical/pain/suffering/death costs, there would also be probable regulatory fines (See OSHA links or search the OSHA website) and such.  Then the lawyers would get involved.  $$$  See, the maker of the PVC pipes say "Not for compressed gas service" and the makers of the PVC fittings say "Not for compressed gas service"  and you went and used the PVC stuff for compressed air?  The safety regulators and the lawyers and the insurance companies will most likely have a field day with you if you do that.  About the only thing a homeowner would avoid would be OSHA.  Every other agency would still have a field day.   No thank you.Copper, or black pipe, or there are some 'fancy' $$$ aluminum tubing airlines set-ups.  Do it once and do it right.  Unless your shop is h-u-g-e, what's the cost to run metal piping going to be, maybe a few hundred dollars?  A 10 ft stick of iron pipe or copper pipe in a size for an airline (3/4 inch for most stuff, maybe some 1/2 inch stuff for drip legs or smaller shops or a low-demand tap) is what, about $15-$20 or so?  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:there are other types of plastic pipe that are approved for compressed air. do a google. here's one  http://pep-plastic.com/manufacturers...ingSystem.html
Reply:We use copper pipe for high pressure refrigeration, Up to 850 psi. We braze it with brazing rod. Silphos rod. You could do it with propane. But we use a turbo, acetylene torch. Once you get over 7/8" though you might want to look into a large torch. Or you will be there forever. Sometimes we use two torches, to preheat it very quickly. So heat does not move into and beyond penetrations in walls. Some compressor shops run copper lines too. Copper will pierce very easily though. So you will find a lot of black pipe in industrial pneumatic applications. You should at least cover it with armor flex. You can get armor flex in one piece and slid it on as you go. You can also get armor flex that is split and glue it on later, where the pipe might be damaged. It will only help though not totally protect the copper.  It is very hard to seal threaded joints over 100 psi. You will find tiny leaks here and there no matter how good a thread, and how good a sealant you use. Some guys use hardening sealers like leak lock. But there are issues with that too.        Sincerely,             William McCormickLast edited by William McCormick Jr; 03-10-2010 at 06:09 PM.
Reply:you know.. all in all.. all you gotta do is go to Lowe's and buy some carbon 3/4/ pipe and fittings and be done with it.. put a freakin filter on it.. hell.. he's probably done with it anyways.. lol..if you're not livin on the edge, you're takin up too much room..
Reply:another option  http://www.garagepak.com/compressed-...g-package.html
Reply:Air lines should not be soldered.  They should be brazed with 15% silver alloy.
Reply:double posted.Last edited by 76GMC1500; 03-18-2010 at 02:27 AM.
Reply:Originally Posted by zopiMight be overkill..but I'd use brass fittings with copper nickle pipe...works very well for a couple hundred US Navy ships..
Reply:Originally Posted by 76GMC1500Air lines should not be soldered.  They should be brazed with 15% silver alloy.Soft lead solder is just a little too soft for high pressure. If you crush the joint even a little it could blow. Lead solder, has physical limitations, that I believe brazing better handles. We will still solder on low pressure refrigeration systems. But even there it is becoming outdated. To many times you get flux built up in a solenoid filter. Because someone put a little to much on. Any factory Air-conditioning compressor is brazed to the hot gas lines as well as the suction lines. Because solder would not hold up, where vibration and possible distortions of the pipe may occur. Over the years I have busted good lead solder joints while physically moving pipes. I did not think it would have happened. But that is why most air conditioning lines are brazed with a silphos rod. Just do not breath those fumes. Very bad for you. I believe sodium permanganate is the only cure for phosphorous poisoning. A trick we use to keep our faces out of the fumes. Is to bend the rod, so you can reach around the pipe with the rod, and not get those fumes in your face while you look over the pipe. With a larger torch tip, that we normally use, I can do that joint in a few seconds. I just wanted to show that you can do it nicely though with less heat, the trick is the even heating of the joint. Till it is cherry. If you use Mapp or propane, you have to have a large tip or you will not be able to heat the pipe. I swagged that with a hex socket because I had no swagging tool with me. So excuse the offset.        Sincerely,             William McCormick
Reply:hi, there is also a copper fitting that has a o  ring inside and is called propress. you slide the pipe into the fitting until it stops and use a special gun for propressing it. In compressed air lines it is rated for 200 psi. The joints are solid, no flux or solder so they are clean, and will not bend like a  silfoss joint would.Its a super process but expensive and is a labor saving installation.http://www.viega.net/productcatalog.html#pg=U1
Reply:hmmm... never had a problem with sweating airlines.. i silfoss anything over 2" anyways.. i also purge it so it don't burn-up... got certified in med-gas and been doin it that way ever since...if you're not livin on the edge, you're takin up too much room..
Reply:Has anyone used transair http://www.transair-usa.com/ pipe and fittings? Special push together fittings and powder coated aluminum pipe. It's likely crazy expensive but could be a fast install and no scaling problems. I've been weighing my options for my shop.
Reply:Originally Posted by forhireHas anyone used transair http://www.transair-usa.com/ pipe and fittings? Special push together fittings and powder coated aluminum pipe. It's likely crazy expensive but could be a fast install and no scaling problems. I've been weighing my options for my shop.
Reply:I have never used these to do air, but they say they are good to 300 psi.I am always on site with the guys installing the standpipe and sprinkler systems for new buildings. And they use these below. They can pipe out a whole multi story building in a couple days with a few guys. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Victaulichttp://www.repipe.com.au/index.php?o...d=75&Itemid=99It is just regular black pipe and they cut a groove into each end of the pipe, for the fitting. The fitting has a rubber seal. They are pretty tough and pretty easy to install. A very sweet system. I just do not know if they recommend it for pneumatic systems. I have never seen a leak in a fitting yet. And I have seen them bent by other contractors something fierce.        Sincerely,             William McCormick
Reply:When you say Parker, you say Price. There stuff is kind of OK. Not the bottom end by any means. But not that true American quality. They can screw you with the impression they are high end. And then they cheap out. A company like Outwater you know you are going to get, some junk for those prices, Ha-ha. I had a run in about a pipe die with Parker Hannifin. I purchased a new die. To replace an old die I had cracked, because the drive pin was not screwed in all the way, but a friend repaired the die. I suspect the drive pin was not in. But to be honest it was a guess. It may have stretched. Because we had done that with their machine before. I am using the new die, and it cracks. Splits right down the middle. The other die used to do what I was doing, but the new one cracked in half. So I call up, I send pictures, I was told it should be ok, and will be replaced. And then nothing. They would not even respond to my e-mails. Fortunately I have the old repaired die. The new one was $795.00 dollars. Lasted a couple months maybe a year. My guess is there are fifty thousand office workers, and four really, over worked tool and die guys there.        Sincerely,             William McCormick
Reply:Originally Posted by William McCormick JrI have never used these to do air, but they say they are good to 300 psi.I am always on site with the guys installing the standpipe and sprinkler systems for new buildings. And they use these below. They can pipe out a whole multi story building in a couple days with a few guys. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Victaulichttp://www.repipe.com.au/index.php?o...d=75&Itemid=99It is just regular black pipe and they cut a groove into each end of the pipe, for the fitting. The fitting has a rubber seal. They are pretty tough and pretty easy to install. A very sweet system. I just do not know if they recommend it for pneumatic systems. I have never seen a leak in a fitting yet. And I have seen them bent by other contractors something fierce.        Sincerely,             William McCormick
Reply:Oh yea for your home or garage, I would not use Victualic, unless I had access to it. But if you are piping out a shop or doing a job for someone. And the guys who are employed in the shop, are clearing out spaces for you as you go. Yea I would look into it. Your time is money, and the aggravation and time of threading is just not worth it. And I thread pipe pretty quickly. I have electric threaders. But to be honest we pipe out a lot of systems and you can dope and Teflon tape all you want, and probably stop a lot of leaks. But you are going to get some tiny bubbles at joints as time goes on. The higher your pressure the more tiny bubbles. For air compressors we do isolate with either steel reinforced rubber flexible hose, or heavy duty polyester reinforced extra thick rubber hose.        Sincerely,             William McCormick
Reply:lol.. threaded pipe is quicker than victaulic.. sure.. i gotta thread the pipe (i use a 535 threader, so..), but victaulic.. yuck.. you still gotta put the pipe in a groover.. and put the clamps on it.. which includes soaping up the rubber seal, setting the rubber seal while someone helps you hold the clamp to tighten it down.. and.. hopefully the rubber is seated correctly.. what a nightmare.. leaks are an extremely rare occurrence.. can't remember when the last one i had was.. and i do this stuff on a daily basis, not once in a blue moon..if you're not livin on the edge, you're takin up too much room..
Reply:And you get a leak in your three inch main pipe, in the middle of no where. Or they want to make a little change. I thread pipe, with big oil cooled threaders, and the little Ridged threaders, and the handheld drill motor threaders. I can go fast too, lay a lot of pipe we say in the business, Ha-ha. Not even an issue. I just find that for anything over natural gas pressures. The threaded joints tend to be a pain in the butt. Either a late change up to the plan, an oversight on our part, or a leak in the middle of no where and the Victaulic looks good. Since you are gonig to be using ten or twenty foot lengths of pipe, you are going to have at least two guys anyway. The puddles of sulphurated cutting oil. The cardboard, soaked in sulphurated cutting oil. The plastic tarps soaked in sulphurated cutting oil. Me soaked in sulphurated cutting oil. The tools and the truck soaked in sulphurated cutting oil. The three and four foot pipe wrench over your head all day. Don't get me wrong there will still be some threading to do, no doubts. But the less the merrier. And don't get me wrong, I do not even know if they actually recommend Victualic for pneumatic systems.        Sincerely,             William McCormick
Reply:Depending on the shop configuration, a 3/4" black pipe trunk line with Tees between every section 6' or longer dropping down to 1/2" pipe or DOT plastic tubing (fittings are kinda expensive) from those tees and out to final termination. The DOT is pretty flexible so you can usually avoid elbows that impede airflow.
Reply:I've decided on 18mm (approx 3/4") * 1mm copper pipe  + soft soldering using propane ( rough layout to 3 corners of the garage is attached. But I'd appreciate comments and answers to a few questions regarding piping (never done this before )My plan was to use - ball valve + 1/2" quick release connection on compressor- 1/2" quick release nipples on both ends of 1/2" flexible hose (a hydraulic shop in the area can make them) for connecting compressor to 1/2" quick release on copper pipe- 1/4" quick release connectors  for connecting 10 mm I.D. hosesThis is a medium term solution - long term, I'd like to add a "franzenator" at the compressor and something similar either instead of the bunch of pipes on the right (at least, I want to try the passive approach before buying anything else).(a)Did I size the quick connects/nipples on compressor properly / could they also be 1/4" (as planned for attaching hoses) ? (b)Regarding copper piping :Is the correct way to get the slant on the horizontal section + pipes to connect byusing - two 90degree joints + spacer at joint A / B and a 90 degree joint + spacer + T on the other side.- T + 90 degree on joint C and another 90 degree on joint D?(c)Any pointers on how to work where there are a couple of joints near each other (regarding destroying finished joints) ? Attached Images
Reply:looks good to me.. for joints that are close to each other, solder all at once..if you're not livin on the edge, you're takin up too much room..
Reply:by "solder all at once" - do you mean heat one, solder it, move to next heat it and solder it or am I supposed to be heating all 3 joints at once then solder first, heat other two etc. ?
Reply:'solder all at once' means that for a copper T or elbow joint you have to heat the fitting (you -always- heat the fitting and not the pipe) and then quickly apply the solder to all the joints for the fitting.  Also if you somehow have two fittings close together, then you sort of have to do them both at the same time because the heat can go from one fitting into the copper pipe ( copper being a pretty good conductor of heat  ) and then into the next fitting.  If you try to do them separately, you get one done and then when you heat the next one the first one softens and the solder drips out or otherwise messes up the previous joint.  The best laid schemes ... Gang oft agley ...
Reply:yup.. and for 3/4 pipe or smaller, go easy on the heat...if you're not livin on the edge, you're takin up too much room..
Reply:In case your budget is tight, or if you want to put the money saved towards more tools, don't forget good old air hose. You can buy it bulk. Crimp fittings.You could put a couple of copper pipe drops in it, with valves at the bottom, to catch moisture. Steel pipe can rust inside and shoot flakes into your tools. I know this maybe be blasphemy on a welding sight, but with the price of metal these days, especially copper, air hose is a good option.Just my nickle,Bert200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:For those wanting more info on Copper pressures and Sweat/Brazing  go here:http://www.copper.org/publications/p...e_handbook.pdfPage 28 has the pressure ratings for joints using different alloys of solder and service temps.
Reply:Well, it's been quite a while since I started this thread and got all the helpful advice - had a few woodworking projects and a few cuts with the  new plasma cutter to test the setup in the meantime. I thought I should at least thank everyone for all the input as without your help and a few of the pro youtube videos I wouldn't have plunged into my first round with soft soldering pipes which were going to be under pressure.In the end I bought a small set of propane torches, low temp solder, paste, cleaning pads and pipe cutter (I naturally bought some pro equipment - a beginner needs all the help he can get ). I used 18mm O.D.,1mm thick copper pipe, gas valves and loctite 55 sealant.After watching quite a few videos, I tried heating copper pipe, seeing how solder flows and finally used 3 joints for practice. I must admit, at the beginning I thought I had got myself into another one of those situations where one overrates ones capabilites, but after the practice joints, I was still a bit sceptical but felt ready to try it out.Firstly I planned the layout/joints, order of soldering/sections/heatflow at joints which were close to each other/ solder flow/ grouping joints etc., as I saw this was no easy task if you didn't have the experience. Well, about a week later I had it ready andwith no leaks (I had expected leaks everywhere ).The only thing I haven't done yet is fix the filter sections to the wall - their weight is "assisted" with strings and I'm very careful not to pull on the rubber hose - something I need to fix ASAP.Here's a few pics - joint2 - closeup of a few solder jointssection 1 - connection of high pressure rubber hose from compressor section 2 - now moving left to right from section1 - zigzag copper tubesection 3A - first air outlet with 3 stage filteringsection 4 - second air outlet with 1 stage filtering at other end of garage.any comments are welcome - just in case the joints look bad/dangerous . The purpose of the plumbing was twofold - to ensure least amount of moisture gets in the rubber hose and to have a few air outlets. I'm not sure I achieved the first point as I haven't seen any moisture in the filters (I do remove a bit from the compressor , but maybe I haven't used the system enough - or the pipes don't have any effect on helping to capture the moisture  )Next "adventure" around welding is learning TIG and plasma cutting unfortunatelly on my own as the nearest school is a couple of hundred kms away (I'm on the coast/tourism oriented area) Attached Images
Reply:Why all the zig zag??Every shop I have been in is basically "Straight and to the point"as far as getting air from point A to point B.....zap!I am not completely insane..Some parts are missing Professional Driver on a closed course....Do not attempt.Just because I'm a  dumbass don't mean that you can be too.So DON'T try any of this **** l do at home.
Reply:I would also definately have a flexible hose between the comp and the hard piping. However, if you don't want to spend the money on a pretty SS braid covered hose, just go to a hose supplier or rubber supplier and get a piece of jackhammer air hose. I have an 18" piece of it in 2"d for mine. It's rated at 250 or 300psi and my comp only goes to 180psi. The hose was about $16.00."Where's Stick man????????" - 7A749"SHHHHHH!! I sent him over to snag that MIC-4 while tbone wasn't looking!" - duaneb55"I have bought a few of Tbone's things unlike Stick-Man who helps himself" - TozziWelding"Stick-man"
Reply:The black rubber hose is high pressure hydraulic hose - the specialist shopsaid this was what is usually used between the compressor and piping.The zig-zag is for cooling -  an inbetween solution until I'm proficient enough in weldingto make a franzinator and/or buy a chiller.Last edited by vjeko; 09-12-2010 at 08:48 AM.
Reply:Glad you got set up. It occurred to me that copper prices may be quite a bit cheaper in your neck of the woods. Myself, I 'll go with hose, with a copper zig zag to condense moisture. And I must thank you for the picture of your zig zag. I was thinking of a vertical zig zag, with drain valves at the bottom of each zig( or would that be the zag??? ). But with your horizontal zig zag, only one drain is needed. Thanks! I just didn't think enough on it.Bert200amp Air Liquide MIG, Hypertherm Plasma, Harris torches, Optrel helmet, Makita angle grinders, Pre-China Delta chop saw and belt sander, Miller leathers, shop made jigs etc, North- welders backpack.
Reply:i just used rubber air hose and quick connects, pretty easy and dirt cheap. If i wanted to set up a longer term setup i might use something differentive worked in a few garages over the years and most guys use a pvc set up, its easy, cheap, solvent welded and prolly gonna get run over by the new guy anyway. one a side note has anyone tried pex? did alot of plumbing with it over the summer and was wonderingforney f100 220vmiller thunderbolt 225v a/ccampbell hausfield flux welder 115vcraftsman o/a rig(harris)collosal tech plasma cutter 50amp